1987 Freeedom 30 Survey

[csharp]

I am about to have a 1987 Freedom 30 surveyed next week. Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations as to specific items or issues I should bring to the attention of the surveyor? Thanks

[jschneider]

Check the shaft seal. I bought a 1987 F30 last year and the surveyor did not know that the original seal was a Syntron mechanical seal. Of course I found out later on that it was leaking. In order to replace it, they had to cut the shaft, put in a new one, replace the cutlass bearing, install a new motor coupling, plus the cost of the new seal. I did not get the bill yet, but I am sure it will be close to $3K (yes, 3 thousand dollars!!!)
The rest is the usual thing as with all the boats. Remember that the hull is balsa cored, so make sure the surveyor tests for moisture. By the way, I love the boat!
J. Schneider
Weeble, F30
Huntington, NY

[GeoffSchultz]

Check the shaft seal. I bought a 1987 F30 last year and the surveyor did not know that the original seal was a Syntron mechanical seal. Of course I found out later on that it was leaking. In order to replace it, they had to cut the shaft, put in a new one, replace the cutlass bearing, install a new motor coupling, plus the cost of the new seal.

Why on Earth did they have to cut the shaft to replace the seal? If they were having trouble pulling the shaft, they should have been able to split the coupling, place a spacer (i.e. a socket wrench socket of the appropiate size/length) between the flanges and use bolts to squeeze the couplings together forcing the shaft out. I just had to do this. Of course, there's always the possibility that coupling was so rusted that it wouldn't come apart, but it sounds to me like they took an easier path for them and more expensive path for you.

I also hate to say it, but Freedom tended to make the shafts the absolute minimum size that they need to be and this would have been a good time to upsize. For example, on the 40/40, they used a 1 1/8" shaft and a 1 1/4" would be much better.

-- Geoff

[jschneider]

Yes Geoff, I also believe that they took the easy way out. But when I spoke to Paul Dennis at Warren River Boatworks (not my yard, he is the "expert" but he is in RI), he also said that most likely I need a new shaft due to the fact that the old Syntron usually scores the entire area where the new seal needs to sit. The new lip seal needs a perfectly smooth shaft to seal correctly. Oh well, I'll let you know how it all turns out in a few weeks! By the way, the old coupling was really rusted.
J. Schneider
Weeble, F30

[mike cunningham]

What seal did you go with? a replacement syntron or??

[jschneider]

I went with a Tides Marine seal. A Syntron replacement is $900, the Tides Marine is $240. Most important, Paul Dennis from Warren River explained that the Syntron is not a marine shaft seal and it was used by Freedom only because there was nothing else around at the time. Paul has been using the Tides Marine seals for over eight years with much success. Like I said before, I will let everyone know what happened in a few weeks!
By the way, if you want one of these seals, you need to contact Warren River Boatworks. Tides Marine will not sell you the correct seal. I also looked at other seals, but most of them will not fit the tight space in the F30 (about 4 inches). The one that does (I forgot the name of it) uses hydraulic fluid to lubricate the lip seal. The Tides Marine, like the Syntron uses water. To me, it made more sense...we'll see.
Jorge
Weeble, F30
Huntington, NY

[mike cunningham]

Thanks for the info on the seal. I have a syntron which is original 1986 vintage. I will be looking for a replacement at some point. I am aware of the high cost of the syntron which is why I ask about your choice of a replacement. It will be interesting to hear about your experience with the tides marine seal.

Mike

[yarrow]

they all look for 6 items

[mike cunningham]

Hi all, wanted to bump this old F30 shaft seal thread because my syntron is now leaking copiously when underway. I had planned to go with tides marine as some have recommended but i just got done measuring clearance between shaft coupling and distant end of shaft log. It is only 4 and 7/8 inches total.

When I go to tides marine site and look at series one seal the minimum distance required between coupling and end of shaft log is 7 inches.

https://www.tidesmarine.com/series-one-page-3


Two inches more than I have available. Is my boat so different from other 30s in this regard? It looks like the Tides series one is not an option for me unless I am missing something. If true then I am stuck with syntron or going to classic stuffing box.

For sanity check the measurements are -

1 and 1/2 inch shaft log (over which rubber hose clamped)

1 and 1/2 inch shaft seal barb (over which rubber hose clamped)

7/8 inch visible seal body

1 inch exposed shaft between seal face and coupling

[bobr]

Two inches more than I have available. Is my boat so different from other 30s in this regard? It looks like the Tides series one is not an option for me unless I am missing something. If true then I am stuck with syntron or going to classic stuffing box.

I have been happy with the Norscott that came on my boat. It uses ATF for lubrication as it is a lip seal, not a water cooled shaft seal with bellows like the PSS. I had PSS on 2 prior boats, only problem was I apparently damaged it when removing the shaft to replace the cutlass bearing as it leaked when relaunched which required replacement. Some say a lip seal is less likely to fail "all at once" than a bellows type unit. Norscott has a good website with measurements, so you can see if it will fit on your shaft.