RE- Lazy Jacks

[captmg]

on a freedom 32 where exactly should the lazy jacks be positioned for most effectivness ?
how should they be secured ?
thnx

[phildowney]

hi
as a general rule, the lazyjacks should come down from just above half way up the mast,
the takeofs on the boom usualy three but 4 on larger boats the one nearest the mast should be about 20 or 30 inchs aft of the mast at the point that the top batten wont catch on it when you hoist the sail,
the aft one needs to be as far aft as possible whilst stil catching the sail and the other one halfway berween the two. if 4 then divide up the gap equaly.
this is how i do it on most boatsand although this isnt specific to the 32


have fun, phil downey

kusi f35 ck uk

[phildowney]

oops iforgot,
secure ... i prefer to mount blocks up the mast and adjust on the mast though you can dead end it up the mast and adjust them on the first lazyjack
harken do a lazyjack kit so look on their site for more inspiration

i have often attatched lazyjacks to those plates with a u welded to them like a sail slide that runs in the track under the boom as per mainsheet and vang if you have that sort of boom otherwise a lacing eye pop riveted under the boom stops the bowline you tie in the end of the lazyjack round the boom from sliding out of position

of course what you realy want is a stackpack!
phil

[THATBOATGUY]

Ohhh, we really want stack packs!!!! Thanks so much for this info Phil. One of the guys I trade labor with is making the canvas part, but I'm on my own for making up the rigging portion. Maybe you could front us some diagrams? How do you recommend attachment points to the canvas? We have aluminum spars and "conventional" booms. The booms are zspar so we were planing on just putting lugs in the bottom of the stack-packs and then feed them on with the foot of the sail. Our sails are full baton with strong track.

George

[phildowney]

hi,
we use 12mm rod battens with sda style (but a cheaper version) batten boxes

to attatch the lazyjacks 4" triangles of 4layers of pvc and 2 layers of acrylic cloth edged and a rutgersen sr 10 eyelet to attatch the line tothese triangles are sewn to a reinforced area of the pack then the batten pockets sewn over the top.

10mm boltrope in the bottom joins the two halves of the pack and goes in the boom on loose footed sails stop it 250 mm short of the end of the pack to let the clew outhaul have room to move

we use a lenght of no 10 tooth zip let into each side of the aft end of the pach right at the bottom its length long enough to reach past reef 3 and put in 6 sliders in pairs to provide adjustable gaps fot the reef lines

the main zip does up from aft with a 9 inch tail which should be edged with webbing to stop it falling off as they usualy flap around and the sunlight rots zip tape fast so covering it with webbing makes them last longer.

when sewing the zip in i sew the first half from aft with the teeth lined up with the edge of the cloth this protects the zip from uv
and gets the length right

i use a separate front cover with a 300mm overlap with the back the other sort that has straps round the mast are rubbish as they soon flap themselves to death.

the pack itself is a flat near rectangle of cloth with a 50mm tabling all the way round and the top edge is slanted to form the slope on the pack


the batten pocket is a strop of cloth 50mm wide plus 1/2 inch extra either side to turn under as you sew it down

i favour sewing a loop of webbing not eyelets to the bottom of the packat each end to lash it to the two ends of the boom to stopit sliding back towards the mast or out to far to the end of the boom

the best cloth we find is uncoated sunbrella with pvc reinforcements sewn in in the way of the batten boxes and lift points

i hope the above is helpful, this is a method that is tried and tested and gives little trouble.
phil

ps
the easiest way to get one is of course to send us the measurements and a cheque !!! but personaly i like to do the measurements myself so usa isnt exactly our home market so i dont mind passing on some hints on how we make stuff!

[THATBOATGUY]

Thanks Phil,

I'll pass this along to our canvas guy. Fortunately for me there are two of them in my trading circle so there will be no cheque written. I'm rewiring his houseboat and refurbishing the exhaust system on his dad's (also a canvas guy) trawler. They are making isenglass panels and screen panels for our full enclosure and the stack packs. Our sails are footed to the boom with slides and our plan is to intersperse some lugs on the stack packs. Single line reefing in line with the boom won't interfere with the lazy jacks or packs.

They sewed our top for us. I built the frame. So far this is the absolute best solution to a top for a c/c 40 I've seen (if I do say so myself). With the enclosure it's going to make for a very comfortable cruiser.

George

[gringstad]

This really good information on stack pac covers. One question related to the lazy jacks connected to the cover: Are the lazy jacks adjustable if so how? If they are fixed, doesn't that interfere with sail shape? The Harken kits are adjustable but others used with stack pac covers are not.

GeorgeR

[THATBOATGUY]

Phil described several methods above. They can be adjusted at the boom or at the mast and on boats with stays they can also be shock corded to the spreaders to be pulled out of the way for hoisting.

George

[gringstad]

I still don't understand how that would be done. We purchased a stack pac cover for our F32 from Ullman Sails this year but they did not provide any means of adjustment!!! The connection to the cover are made at three points using knots. I've raise the concern to their sales but so far have not received a suitable answer. I can see perhaps adding a light weight snap shackle at one of the connections to the cover to slack it off on each side but that is somewhat awkward and any slack may be more or less than required. Any advise would be appreciated as so far getting nothing from Ullman.

GeorgeR

[phildowney]

put blocks up the mast and put a cleat either side of the mast and treat them as you would extra topping lifts or lead them aft if you so whish to cleats in the cockpit tf you find you need to adjust them a lot.
phil