Fixed Port Replacement on F36

[maxpbd]

This is my first post as a new member, so not sure if I'm doing it correctly. I would like to replace the four main salon fixed ports on the 1988 F36. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. My boat is in Friday Harbor, Wa.

[Knevins]

We have owned hull 47, freedom 36, since 1992. I have done lot of maintenance in that time. Among many projects, I removed, recaulked and refitted the opening ports. I had a leak in the fixed ports and decided to do the same as I did with the opening ports.

I have two fixed ports in the main salon, and two opening ports aft, over the galley (port) and the Nav station (starboard). DO NOT TRY TO REPLACE THE FIXED PORTS.

My fixed ports were glued with 5200. I quickly learned that removing them would require destroying the port lights. They are fixed with 5200. In my case at least the fixed ports DID NOT LEAK AT THE PORT HULL INTERFACE.

I found that my leaks were between the clear window and the aluminum frames. Using masking tape I carefully remove about 1/8 inch of the black sealant between the widow and the frame. I then used a black silicone sealant to replace the sealant I removed. This solved my problem for abour five years so far..

BEWARE: fixed portlights for the F36 are not standard and need to be custom-made. Let them leak, fix them my way or be prepared so spend big bucks on little leaks...

Let me know if you have questions.

[johays]

Hi Maxphd
The fixed portlights in my F36 have become very cloudy and it would be nice to replace them. The first response to your query was not hopeful about the success of that operation. Have you found a solution or has anyone else found a good way to do it?

[Michel]

Polishing the outside with copper polish and a polishing machine may clear up your windows - although temporarily. I do my deck hatches this way every year.

[danba]

I used an automotive headlight refinishing kit that did a pretty good job of clearing ours up. Although not back to "brand new" condition, the refinishing was a huge improvement. I did this last summer so we'll see how long it lasts. The kit was a "Mother's" brand and included polishing compound, several sandpaper sponges in varying grits, and a foam polishing ball used in an electric drill. Around $25.00 at Walmart if memory serves me correctly. There were several similar brands/kits available.

I used the sandpaper on one of the portlights to remove some scratches, otherwise I just went with the polishing compound. In our case I can see where using the sandpaper to remove more of the surface UV damage would produce better results, but I wanted to go easy to start with. We have one portlight where an old school "through the glass" style automotive cell phone antenna was attached. I pulled the antenna plate off leaving a small square of "virgin" window, thus I could compare what a new window looked like compared with what the weathered window looked like. There was a noticible difference in the thickness of the plastic between the two areas illustrating just how much material the UV has worn off over the years. That is one of the reasons I didn't sand to heavily. Overall I was very pleased with the outcome.

[sailmon]

The dead lights on my 1991 F38 are also badly hazed - thankfully not leaking. I've been using Brasso to polish once a season. Lasts about 6 weeks. I will eventually replace the plastic lenses. Not sure if the 5200 story above is representative of the normal production plan or someone's one-off repair job. Typically 5200 would be used on permanent seams like hull-to-deck joint but not on parts that wear out.
I think a call to Paul Dennis at Warren Boatworks would be worthwhile. Paul ran the Freedom production line for a number of years - and would be able to shed light on adhesives used and techniques for replacing.

[Hans]

I replaced the fixed and later the opening ports on my F38 a couple of years ago. Windows were badly scratched and one fixed port was seriously leaking. I did'nt like I could'nt see outsidse. I did'nt know at the time that polishing would restore the 'see through' of the lexan.
Instructions for the job were given to me by Paul Dennis. It was quite a job. The fixed ports were glued with 5200 and it took some effort to cut them out with wire. The aluminum parts were fixed together with rivets. I had new lexan windows cut using the old ones as templates. Glued everything with Sikaflex and replaced them in the cabinstructure with Sikaflex as well. No more leaking and now I have nice new windows.
The rubber seal on some of the opening ports were damaged resulting in leaks, not with rain but with 'green water' on deck. Seals alone could'nt be replaced. I ordered new ports from Bomar. The 'hinged' parts were easily attached to the fixed parts in the cabinstructure. Simple job.