Overhead hatch replacement F36

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Tyche
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:06 am
Location: Padanaram Harbor, South Dartmouth, MA

Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by Tyche »

We need to replace the entire forward overhead hatch. Has anyone done this recently (say, within the last five years), and if so, what hatch did you use? Bomar/Pompanette no longer carries the model.

Lots of work being done on Tyche this winter - replacing the aluminum toe rails with teak, a few new stanchions, repair gelcoat dings (in the process, discovered the entire boat had been re-gelcoated at some point during previous ownerships), replacing stern taff rail. Long list but she'll be spiffy in the spring!

tnltracy
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:45 pm

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by tnltracy »

If it's a bomar cast hatch, I'm pretty sure you can still get them. I think Defender carries them, if not, I have a link somewhere at home
1984 Freedom 32 #28
Warwick Cove, Greenwich Bay, RI

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mike cunningham
Posts: 489
Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:21 am
Location: Jacqueline, F30 #3, Discovery Bay, California

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by mike cunningham »

I started this job on and F30. After investigating the original installation of the hatch and realizing Freedom Yachts bedded the hatches with 5200 I backed off the project. It was going to be an incredible pain to get them out and I could envision the challenges fitting new flanges.

I had had begun the project because the plexi was badly stained and crazed and I found it near impossible to remove the hatch covers in order to send them in for glass replacement.

In the end it was obvious a complete hatch change out was going to be a huge job. I then redoubled my efforts to get the hatch covers off. I finally managed to do this. When they were safely off I decided to replace the glass myself as a result of comments on this board suggesting this was within the bounds of DYI. I am very very happy with the outcome. Instead of paying $450 for a hatch glass replacement I got the cut glass for $50 sealant for $15 and new gasket for $32 after a little elbow grease I had new glass installed and looking great. The Dow sealant is bulletproof by the way so long as you are very careful to keep your surfaces clean.

Don't know why you have to pull the hatch,but if it is anything short of flange damage beyond repair, I would reconsider.
Mike Cunningham
Freedom 30 (Mull) Hull #3
Build date...June, 1986 . Freedom Yachts USA, sloop, shoal keel
Gun Mount and pole retrofitted (purchased from a Hoyt Freedom 32)
Yanmar 2gm20F , 1600 hrs fixed two blade prop
e-rud and ocean racing equipment

tnltracy
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:45 pm

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by tnltracy »

Hi Mike,

How did you get the hatch off? I'm struggling to get the SS bolts out of the Aluminum frame for the support arms.
1984 Freedom 32 #28
Warwick Cove, Greenwich Bay, RI

midnightsailor
Posts: 140
Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2009 1:21 pm
Location: Greenport, New York

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by midnightsailor »

I removed and replaced all the deck hatches on my Freedom 33 . I used a brace and bit to remove the screws holding the frames to the deck.
1982 Freedom 33 Cat Ketch, Hull # 53, Standard Booms, deep keel ,tall rig
An armed man is a citizen, An unarmed man is a subject. George Washington

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mike cunningham
Posts: 489
Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:21 am
Location: Jacqueline, F30 #3, Discovery Bay, California

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by mike cunningham »

Typing on a mobile so forgive.

First of all, terminology I am using

Flange: the square bit that is screwed and bedded to the cabin top.

Cover: the bit that opens and closes on the flange.

Gasket: the bit that is fitted to the cover and makes a deal with the upper rim of the flange

Hinges: the two or three hinge mechanisms which attach to the flange and the cover which allow the user to open and close the hatch cover.

Glass: the plexi fitted in the hatch cover frame.

My story was that I had planned to do a full hatch replacement. I soon realized the flange was going to be a major effort due to the bedding and interior headliner removal and on and on. I wouldn't have tried but I could not extract the pins from the hinges nor could I extract the screws from the hinge flange which connected the hinge to the hatch cover.

After realizing how huge a job the hatch replacement was going to be, I used a dremel with a steel cutting wheel and cut deep slots in the as ss screws holding the aluminum hatch cover to the hinge. That plus a lot of WD 40 and some other penetrating fluid, gave me enough leverage to get the screws out and remove the hatch covers for glass removal, measurement, cleaning, and glass replacement.
Mike Cunningham
Freedom 30 (Mull) Hull #3
Build date...June, 1986 . Freedom Yachts USA, sloop, shoal keel
Gun Mount and pole retrofitted (purchased from a Hoyt Freedom 32)
Yanmar 2gm20F , 1600 hrs fixed two blade prop
e-rud and ocean racing equipment

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jamesorr
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Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 2:55 pm
Location: Rochester, NY
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Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by jamesorr »

Alternatively, one could replace the "lens" in place -- which is what I did when an old piece of acrylic and an over eager sail handler cracked mine.

In my case, I procured a sufficiently sized of piece of new material (smoked acrylic from my recollection, although I upsized from 1/4" (stock) to 3/8", using 2 sided tape, stuck the old lens onto the new material, routed to size, drilled hatch handle holes, chamfered an 1/8" off the top edge (to clean up the aesthetics), cleaned and prepped the cover and reinstalled the new lens. Not much work actually, and has held up well over the last 5+ years.
James Orr
Orr What
1988 Freedom 32 (Mull)
Sodus Bay, NY

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mike cunningham
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Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:21 am
Location: Jacqueline, F30 #3, Discovery Bay, California

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by mike cunningham »

Yes, agree. I had weather and distance issues but you could definitely do it on the boat. Its messy but that can be managed.
Mike Cunningham
Freedom 30 (Mull) Hull #3
Build date...June, 1986 . Freedom Yachts USA, sloop, shoal keel
Gun Mount and pole retrofitted (purchased from a Hoyt Freedom 32)
Yanmar 2gm20F , 1600 hrs fixed two blade prop
e-rud and ocean racing equipment

rds
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:32 pm

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by rds »

mike cunningham wrote: Instead of paying $450 for a hatch glass replacement I got the cut glass for $50 sealant for $15 and new gasket for $32 after a little elbow grease I had new glass installed and looking great. The Dow sealant is bulletproof by the way so long as you are very careful to keep your surfaces clean.
Mike , I just wonder what kind of caulk have you used ? 'Dow' what is it exactly ? I have some sort of small relevant project going on over this winter. I try to fix my main hatch which has dark acrylic sliding 'lid' with teak trim / handle attached to it. Teak peace wobbles on the sliding lid . ( Teak has a small groove where acrylic lid goes into and join is secured with 4 small screws and some sort of caulking or glue, acrylic cracked around screw holes and wood wobbles now.) I am trying to think what kind of glue / caulk to use to join wood with acrylic ... all those $80 per 10 oz. special brand name acrylic primers do not look very appealing so far..
Thank you.
Last edited by rds on Sat Jan 17, 2015 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

bad
Posts: 184
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2011 11:14 am

Re: Overhead hatch replacement F36

Post by bad »

Some thoughts... Teak is know to be an oily wood so for most gluing or caulking I've been told you should clean the surface with acetone right before gluing. Acrylic is very sensitive to solvents like acetone so wait for the teak to dry before inserting the plastic into the groove. Acrylic also doesn't like stresses around holes or screws fastened to it. I did a quick scetch of what I think you have and and what I think the holes should look like... The screws should not go into the acrylic, rather should go through, and into the teak on the other side of your groove (I'm just learning the ScetchUp, so sorry about the crude drawing).

If you need to glue because everything is kinda wobbly... I've recently tried epoxy on acrylic and had very bad luck. I finally used Weld-On 40. (http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Lexan_ ... PS-40-PINT). My application was gluing birch wood veneer onto acrylic tubes. It worked very well. You may have luck with a Gorilla Glue. I think it is compatible. In either case you want to tape off the parts to minimize the mess.

Don't use a plolysulfide based caulking or 3M 5200 or 4200 or most other glues - they either don't stick or they craze/crack the acrylic. Silicone caulking, whereas compatible with acrylic, in my opinion doesn't really count as a glue, much less a sealant.

Hope this helps

Erik
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