there was an earlier thread on this topic, but no report as to whether aluminum toe rails are available now as replacement for corroded ones on a Mull 30. The Plastimousa.com website mentioned in the earlier thread is no longer in operation. Can anyone update me on this, where to find toe rails (made by Goiot?) and a rough idea of cost and time involved? Is installation something one can do oneself, or does it require bending off-the-shelf toe rails by a professional?
Paul
F30 "Bagatelle" hull # 58
toe rail for F30
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:08 am
- Location: Niagara on the Lake, Ontario
Re: toe rail for F30
I've done this on a Ranger 33 - toe rail was not bent and sprung back straight when I removed it. Luckily they did not use 5200 to set it in place. In any case, heat may be your friend if you are having problems removing it. I have also sharpened the thin 1" or 1 1/2" paint scrapers and tapped them gently between the deck and hardware to remove stuff. Grind a single bevel like a on a chisel, round the corners, and have the bevel facing the deck when you use it. With minimal care you end up without any scratches.
I spent quite some time cleaning the deck, holes, undersides. Made sure the holes were about 1/16" oversized, put a small countersink on the top to create room for the caulking. Taped all around to minimize the mess. Inserted the screws into the rail, applied a piece of heavy tape on top, applied caulking to the shanks. Took two people and a series of blocks and wedges to hold it up off the deck to slowly fit the rail without disturbing the caulking on the screws. A little bit of a race against time before the caulking skins over. Start on one end or the middle and work from there.
Today I would use butyl tape, wrapped around each screw shank, again after they are inserted into the rail but before the. Much cleaner, you got all the time in the world to assemble, no dripping...
Erik
I spent quite some time cleaning the deck, holes, undersides. Made sure the holes were about 1/16" oversized, put a small countersink on the top to create room for the caulking. Taped all around to minimize the mess. Inserted the screws into the rail, applied a piece of heavy tape on top, applied caulking to the shanks. Took two people and a series of blocks and wedges to hold it up off the deck to slowly fit the rail without disturbing the caulking on the screws. A little bit of a race against time before the caulking skins over. Start on one end or the middle and work from there.
Today I would use butyl tape, wrapped around each screw shank, again after they are inserted into the rail but before the. Much cleaner, you got all the time in the world to assemble, no dripping...
Erik
- mike cunningham
- Posts: 489
- Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:21 am
- Location: Jacqueline, F30 #3, Discovery Bay, California
Re: toe rail for F30
I have this job on my list for post retirement (way down on my list). There seem to be vendors out there who toe rail.
http://www.crestaluminum.com/toerail.htm
for example. Seems to me the challenge will be to find the right fit and look.
http://www.crestaluminum.com/toerail.htm
for example. Seems to me the challenge will be to find the right fit and look.
Mike Cunningham
Freedom 30 (Mull) Hull #3
Build date...June, 1986 . Freedom Yachts USA, sloop, shoal keel
Gun Mount and pole retrofitted (purchased from a Hoyt Freedom 32)
Yanmar 2gm20F , 1600 hrs fixed two blade prop
e-rud and ocean racing equipment
Freedom 30 (Mull) Hull #3
Build date...June, 1986 . Freedom Yachts USA, sloop, shoal keel
Gun Mount and pole retrofitted (purchased from a Hoyt Freedom 32)
Yanmar 2gm20F , 1600 hrs fixed two blade prop
e-rud and ocean racing equipment