F32 v-berth door track upgrade
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 4:13 pm
Hopefully this post will help others out who have the old hanging/sliding door setup. Credit to Paul Dennis for the inspiration and ideas based on the F35 he was restoring when I stopped by last year.
The original setup has an aluminum track with pretty light weight plastic rollers, which I figure expired and fell apart many years before I became the current owner in late 2014.
This project reused the original door, aluminum track (as a spacer only), and hooks for holding the door open or closed.
Teak floor guide was removed and door was modified at the bottom to accommodate new rollers.
Purchased items:
- Prime-Line Products D 1780 Sliding Door Tandem Roller Assembly, 1-1/4-Inch Ball Bearing, Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPH86F6/re ... axbNRAPP81 $51.93
- Stainless Steel Sliding Door Track. http://www.wwhardware.com/kv-455-single ... ack-kv0455 $11.35
- CS Hyde UHMW Polyethylene Rubber Adhesive Tape, Clear 1 inch x 18 yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000REGUE4/re ... axbVTCCSN3 $16.45
From local Ace hardware:
- #4 - 1/2" pan head screws
- #12 - 2" pan head screws cut to 1-3/4 length
- 1x4x48 Maple board
Project involves removing door which in my case was standing on floor as both original rollers were broken. Removed aluminum track, screw behind the mast I removed with a Phillips drill bit and pliers, did not replace when re-assembling. Removed teak guide from floor by prying plugs hiding screws out and removing the screws.
Door was modified to accommodate the two rollers, each mounted ~1.5" from edge to allow room for screws to attach to door. I used the new roller assemblies as templates, traced and cut out with a jigsaw.
New stainless floor track cut to length and screwed to the floor in place of original teak floor guide.
Maple retaining board ripped to 2-1/2" width, and an additional 1/4 thick piece ripped to act as spacer behind the door. This piece can be seen in the picture looking up behind the retaining board.
Retaining board cut to length, 40-1/2" in my case, to cover teak stops at each end of the aluminum track while 1/4 piece is cut to fit between, as this only keeps door from sticking on doorway frame without friction to stop it from sliding
Use aluminum track as template to drill 3 holes to mount the retaining board to wall, centered and aligned at top. 1/4 maple guide glued in place to wall.
Low friction tape is applied to 1/4 board and back of retaining board so that door will easily and quietly slide.
Stand door in place, ensure wheels are correctly on track, and adjust height so track at top will keep it from jumping off the track. Using SS screws, mount retaining board in place with aluminum track behind it. Door should fit very nicely with about 1/16" of space side to side and below aluminum track.
Photos: https://db.tt/kpKTKTne
Enjoy!
The original setup has an aluminum track with pretty light weight plastic rollers, which I figure expired and fell apart many years before I became the current owner in late 2014.
This project reused the original door, aluminum track (as a spacer only), and hooks for holding the door open or closed.
Teak floor guide was removed and door was modified at the bottom to accommodate new rollers.
Purchased items:
- Prime-Line Products D 1780 Sliding Door Tandem Roller Assembly, 1-1/4-Inch Ball Bearing, Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPH86F6/re ... axbNRAPP81 $51.93
- Stainless Steel Sliding Door Track. http://www.wwhardware.com/kv-455-single ... ack-kv0455 $11.35
- CS Hyde UHMW Polyethylene Rubber Adhesive Tape, Clear 1 inch x 18 yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000REGUE4/re ... axbVTCCSN3 $16.45
From local Ace hardware:
- #4 - 1/2" pan head screws
- #12 - 2" pan head screws cut to 1-3/4 length
- 1x4x48 Maple board
Project involves removing door which in my case was standing on floor as both original rollers were broken. Removed aluminum track, screw behind the mast I removed with a Phillips drill bit and pliers, did not replace when re-assembling. Removed teak guide from floor by prying plugs hiding screws out and removing the screws.
Door was modified to accommodate the two rollers, each mounted ~1.5" from edge to allow room for screws to attach to door. I used the new roller assemblies as templates, traced and cut out with a jigsaw.
New stainless floor track cut to length and screwed to the floor in place of original teak floor guide.
Maple retaining board ripped to 2-1/2" width, and an additional 1/4 thick piece ripped to act as spacer behind the door. This piece can be seen in the picture looking up behind the retaining board.
Retaining board cut to length, 40-1/2" in my case, to cover teak stops at each end of the aluminum track while 1/4 piece is cut to fit between, as this only keeps door from sticking on doorway frame without friction to stop it from sliding
Use aluminum track as template to drill 3 holes to mount the retaining board to wall, centered and aligned at top. 1/4 maple guide glued in place to wall.
Low friction tape is applied to 1/4 board and back of retaining board so that door will easily and quietly slide.
Stand door in place, ensure wheels are correctly on track, and adjust height so track at top will keep it from jumping off the track. Using SS screws, mount retaining board in place with aluminum track behind it. Door should fit very nicely with about 1/16" of space side to side and below aluminum track.
Photos: https://db.tt/kpKTKTne
Enjoy!