Headliner Material & Adhesive

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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby Mike Holibar » Tue Jul 05, 2011 5:43 am

Hi Geoff,
I am just about to attempt recovering some head lining panels and was contemplating the method you have described. I am glad to hear it worked so well for you and will proceed in the same way. Some of the old linings were foam backed and the foam has decayed - very messy. So, like you I am glueing straight on to sealed plwood and I won't be bothered about any minor imperfections. I remember though, a few years ago, I was building a wooden 35 footer and I took great care with the deck to gunwale and carling joins as I considered it would be no fun at all to be laying in a bunk in heavy weather looking up at a bad join! :o

Regards,
Mike Holibar
S/V Fyne Spirit of Plymouth (Freedom 39PHS-1989)
Lyttelton
New Zealand
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby Van T » Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:51 am

Insead of velcro try 3M dualock product. I have had excellent results with this product mounting all sorts of suff
around the boat. Totally water proof.
Best pricing is from Mcmaster.com . Type in this part number and it will get you to the
right page to make your selection. (size and color) Part number: 94935K43
Use the VHB version.
Two mating surfaces, when locked together are about 1/8" thick.

regards,

van
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby sailmon » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:03 pm

I replaced the entire headliner on our 1991 F38 a couple years ago using the white pebble-textured FRP boards from Home Depot. Incredibly easy to work with. Used the old pieces as templates and cut with saber saw on our ping pong table. Used original batons and framing (around hatches, companion way and overhead handhold) to secure. To make up for loss of thickness of luan and foam backed vinyl, I put 1.5" wide 1/4" thick closed cell foam weather stripping all around and across the center of each piece before installing. This provides proper fit and a bit of air space between headliner and underside of deck. Because the material is a bit less rigid than the luan, I shot a (short) self tapping screw through the headliner and into the underside of the deck in 3 or 4 areas where there was a bit of sag. Covered the screws with the white plastic snap on caps. Surface is bright, washable and looks great. Should last the life of the boat and then some.
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby nrags » Sat Jul 09, 2011 1:15 am

How did you get panels in/out of boat?? My 3 main panels on the F36 are all about 4' x 7'; won't make it out of boat to work on; darn it!!
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby GeoffSchultz » Sat Jul 09, 2011 8:50 am

nrags wrote:How did you get panels in/out of boat?? My 3 main panels on the F36 are all about 4' x 7'; won't make it out of boat to work on; darn it!!

Very carefully... I have a 40/40, but suspect that if you do turn them, that you'll be able to squeeze them out. After all, they were installed in the boat.

-- Geoff
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby JimD » Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:51 pm

To get the panels out of my F38 I cut them into two long panels and had teak battens made when they were reinstalld.
I like they looks better than the original.

Jim Demerest
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby briank1946 » Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:25 pm

I just wanted to say how easy working with the foam material that Michel recommended is. (It's called 'Foamex' in the UK, and is often referred to over here as 'fridge liner'.) You just mark the shape you want then cut through it with a sharp knife. Often you can simply deep score it and snap it, then sand. It's easy to clean and nice and bright. I guess it does reflect sound more than other materials, but this didn't bother us. Best of all, no noxious fumes. That was all on a previous boat.On 'Paradox' we're steadily lining lclothes lockers etc with carpet for our cold climate = get a lot of condensation over here. Means noxious fumes again, so I always work outdoors. It's not just the VOCS that ae a problem - the fumes can get you tipsy.They're also explosive and often toxic. If you can get water -based glue , great. I've had trouble finding it recently in the UK. I'd say use Foamex for visible stuff and marine grade lining carper for inside clothes lockers and wardobes - warm to touch - though maybe no good for tropical climates.

Brian Kerslake
'Paradox', Freedom 39 Pilothouse Schooner converting to schooner junk
Portland Marina (2012 Olympic site), UK
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby sailmon » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:53 pm

The Home Depot FRP boards are relatively flexible. The cut-out for the main salon overhead hatch allows the piece to be angled in and with a slight bend in the widest part - slid right in. Was a bit harder getting the original pieces out because the luan is not quite as flexible - but they came out in sufficiently good condition as to be used for templates.
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Re: Headliner Material & Adhesive

Postby GeoffSchultz » Tue Sep 25, 2018 7:22 am

10 years ago I used the following procedure to redo my headliner. It's holding up perfectly. Headliner replacement seems to be a big issue, as I keep getting e-mails about how I handled it. I just ran across an e-mail from a couple of years ago detailing my process, so I'll reproduce it here:

  • I decided to utilize NaugaSoft, which is a fabric backed vinyl (Naugahyde) product.
  • I used 3M's Fastbond 30NF water based contact adhesive to keep down the VOCs since I was doing this inside during the winter.
  • I used an HVLP sprayer with a 2 mm tip to spray the adhesive.
  • I removed the existing panels from the boat and remade any damaged panels out of 1/8" Luan.
  • I used the panels as a pattern to cut new headliner material, adding about 2" to wrap over the edge of the panel.
  • I had a 4x8' sheet of plywood on which I would place the new headliner material.
  • I would stretch the headliner material as much as possible and use a staple gun to hold it tight.
  • I would spray the headliner and the Luan panel with the Fastbond and let them dry.
  • I would then place thin strips of wood on top of the headliner and then place the Luan panel on the strips and carefully position it.
  • When I had everything lined up, I would slide the wood strips out and use a roller to bond the surfaces together.
  • I would then spray the backside edges of the Luan panel with adhesive, let it dry and then wrap the excess material onto the back side to hold the material in place and provide a nice edge.

Hope this helps!
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