greasing syntron shaft seal

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greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby SVBAGATELLE » Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:18 am

I have replaced my Syntron seal twice on my F30 (and the prop shaft once), and it is leaking again. I have spoken to Paul Dennis about the Tides Marine seal and he thinks it should be installed on a new shaft, with a new coupling and having the engine realigned. Unfortunately I am in the Bahamas where everything is very expensive and skilled labor is scarce. So I have decided to nurse my Syntron along for another season until I can get a refit in the US. Paul suggested the alternative of installing grease nipples and injecting grease into the seal. I know that some of you have gone the other way--removing the grease that other owners put in. Was overheating the problem, and if so, how serious? Otherwise it seems to be the best way of keeping water out of the sump, which others have noted, does not drain directly to the bilge.
Paul
F30 #58 "Bagatelle"
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Re: greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby mike cunningham » Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:44 pm

I greased my seal for a number of years after buying the boat. The owners manual. at least the version I possess, directs you to do so. During this greasing period the seal would almost always heat up to about 120 to 130 degrees, just below the point where you could not hold fingers to it for more that 5 seconds so my temp numbers are an estimate.

After reading lengthy debates one way and the other on this topic and having direct experience with the heating which seemed abnormal, I stopped greasing. Today, about four years later, the seal never heats up. I now have a handheld infrared thermometer (a great tool for engine troubleshooting by the way) which I use to monitor the seal from time to time and it never gets above 80 to 85 degrees. Having said this, I too am now getting some dripping when I am motoring. It is a fairly slow drip , probably half a cup per hour. I usually sop it up every now and then with a sponge (carefully mind you) when I am doing my routine engine check.
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Re: greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby SVBAGATELLE » Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:52 pm

Thanks Mike, that confirms more or less what I thought. I also mop up the salt water when I am on the boat, but when I leave it unattended I usually find a thick layer of salt that has dried from the drip. I think I would prefer the risk of overheating over the risk of having a lot of salt water under the engine (with corrosion problems) and the risk (slight) of sinking the boat--at least until I can get the major refit done.
Paul
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Re: greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby mike cunningham » Mon Sep 30, 2013 11:48 pm

I should have clarified. The seal stops dripping when I am not motoring. At the dock she stays quite dry. Not sure why this is but it is and I keep a close eye on it. I would feel the same as you if it were dripping when I am moored.
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Re: greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby jschneider » Wed Nov 20, 2013 6:05 pm

I just wanted to report that I have just finished the first season with a new Tides Marine seal, purchased through Paul Dennis, along with a new shaft and coupling with excellent results; no leaks at all. The old Syntron was leaking badly. If anyone needs any information let me know.
Jorge Schneider
Weeble, 1987 F30
Huntington, NY
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Re: greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby mike cunningham » Sun Feb 08, 2015 3:42 pm

I am bumping this old thread to inquire about how the tides marine seal is faring? My ancient syntron is beginning to drip a bit while at the dock and it is probably time to consider a replacement next haul out.

I was checking the syntron site, reading up om the seal features and was suprised to see in red typeface "not recommended for engines under 4 cylinders"what's up with that
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Re: greasing syntron shaft seal

Postby sailmon » Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:44 pm

I've had 5 good years with our Tides seal which is still functioning well. I would definitely recommend it. Not sure if your Syntron was set up for water cooling - but if you go with another Syntron, one of the plugs (where some people insert grease fittings) should have a hose barb installed and a small diameter (1/4" or 5/16" ID) hose pumbed from the raw water cooling system. The water forced into the coupling at low pressure provides lubrication and cooling.
Sailmon (Captain Bob Allenick)
S/V Her Diamond
1991 Freedom 38
Cleveland, OH
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