Looking at replacing our Perkins 4-108 with a Yanmar 4JH5SE in our Freedom 39 PH. Has anybody done this? Anything to watch out for?
Thanks,
Doug and Cindy Monroe
s/v Spartan, 1983 Freedem 39
Repower Freedom 39 PH.
Repower Freedom 39 PH.
Douglas Monroe
s/v Spartan, 1983 Freedom 39 Deck Salon
La Paz, BCS, Mexico
s/v Spartan, 1983 Freedom 39 Deck Salon
La Paz, BCS, Mexico
Re: Repower Freedom 39 PH.
Purchased in 2000, struggled w/4-108 for 1/2 season... then repowered in 2001 w/4JH3E (precurosr to the 4JH5E) and have never looked back, so reliable. 6 things there is plenty of room for which I'd strongly suggest are:
1 - automatic engine compartment fire extinguisher (e.g, Sea-Fire FM-200),
2 - fuel lift pump ahead right after manifold for dual fuel tanks,
3 - raw water flow sensor right after strainer wired into Yanmar control panel,
4 - Speedseal raw water pump impeller cover,
5 - oil change pump plumbed into engine pan (Yanmar makes a fitting for this), and
6 - raw water T fitting right after seacock for garden hose (Perko makes these either on seacock on inline fitting right after).
The last 3 will greatly ease routine maintenance and engine flushing (e.g., w/antifreeze). 1 thing I didn't have room for but would also suggest is a Racor dual fuel filter, unless equipment related to ancillary gear (e.g., genset, watermaker) is making it too crowded.
Wasn't able to keep the drive-saver b/c the engine was a bit longer so no room after the transmission w/o some serious modifications. You may want to look at your drive shaft setup, including repack, inspecting the shaft strut (and adding a zinc), and perhaps upgrading to a Maxprop.
Engine access is easy w/1 major exception -- the raw water rump impeller. On all the Yanmars it will be on the far side. In my case, it's aft-facing so buried, but on current Yanmars it's front-facing which may be worse. Think of anything you can do during installation to make impeller access/changes easier.
The repowering was pretty straightforward, esp since Yanmars are lighter and I was paying a qualified professional to do it. If you have an inside steering station like I do, definitely go w/dual engine panels, and IMO go w/the optional panel w/water and oil gauges.
Are you also considering the newer 4JH57 engine w/common rail injection?
1 - automatic engine compartment fire extinguisher (e.g, Sea-Fire FM-200),
2 - fuel lift pump ahead right after manifold for dual fuel tanks,
3 - raw water flow sensor right after strainer wired into Yanmar control panel,
4 - Speedseal raw water pump impeller cover,
5 - oil change pump plumbed into engine pan (Yanmar makes a fitting for this), and
6 - raw water T fitting right after seacock for garden hose (Perko makes these either on seacock on inline fitting right after).
The last 3 will greatly ease routine maintenance and engine flushing (e.g., w/antifreeze). 1 thing I didn't have room for but would also suggest is a Racor dual fuel filter, unless equipment related to ancillary gear (e.g., genset, watermaker) is making it too crowded.
Wasn't able to keep the drive-saver b/c the engine was a bit longer so no room after the transmission w/o some serious modifications. You may want to look at your drive shaft setup, including repack, inspecting the shaft strut (and adding a zinc), and perhaps upgrading to a Maxprop.
Engine access is easy w/1 major exception -- the raw water rump impeller. On all the Yanmars it will be on the far side. In my case, it's aft-facing so buried, but on current Yanmars it's front-facing which may be worse. Think of anything you can do during installation to make impeller access/changes easier.
The repowering was pretty straightforward, esp since Yanmars are lighter and I was paying a qualified professional to do it. If you have an inside steering station like I do, definitely go w/dual engine panels, and IMO go w/the optional panel w/water and oil gauges.
Are you also considering the newer 4JH57 engine w/common rail injection?
S/V Liberty's Folly
1983 PH-39 Schooner
1983 PH-39 Schooner