Mast collars material

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Alain
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Mast collars material

Post by Alain »

Is there anyone who ever successfullly replaced the Freedom neoprene (?) mast collar(s) around the mast(s) at the deck level? I have used a number of replacement solutions in recent years, from 3 inch strips of truck rubber mudguard (1/4" thick x 2) to sophisticated two-part resins poured in place. None of these replacements are as convenient as the original Freedom "doughnut". Any sugggestions? Thanks!
Alain
Naïade, F39PH '83, Montréal

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GeoffSchultz
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by GeoffSchultz »

I've used Spartite with moderate success. It still leaks, but it reduces the leaking. What problem are you having?

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1997 Freedom 40/40
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THATBOATGUY
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by THATBOATGUY »

Leaking isn't a huge deal for us as the main mast comes into the forward chain locker and the mizzen comes into the engine room. Not a lot a little bit of water can hurt so it's been way down on our list of things to do. I'll look forward to see what others have done. I don't think I'd like to go the expense of the spartight system. I think we will most likely go with a conventional "rubber" collar.

George
George and Kerri Huffman S/V Marquesa Freedom 40 CC CK Sail MarquesaImage

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GeoffSchultz
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by GeoffSchultz »

If the issue is water, then we tried to solve it by making a collar out of Seamark, which is Vinyl backed Sunbrella. It has 2 large hose clamps that goes around the top and the bottom and tightens onto a ring of weather stripping material. In my case the, the boom vang attached to the mast, so there's an arm that goes out and surrounds that. We've also recently started running a ring of rigging tape around the top to seal that better.

-- Geoff
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1997 Freedom 40/40
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rmidgley
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by rmidgley »

To keep water out, I've had good luck running a bead of Marine Silastic. It lasts about two years in the BVI sun and then I just dig it out and add a fresh bead.

- Rees

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Alain
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by Alain »

Hi Geoff, George,

I already made 2 booths with a material similar to your description of Seamark. Actually, it's a material used to cover semi-trailer loads, really rugged. No more water infiltration!

The problem is that I'm taking down my masts every winter, and the Spartite-like resin is not a good solution, since it is not possible to take the masts out without destroying the "collar". Other material I have used is rubber sheet with high compression modulus, but enventually the collar of the front mast fell in the forward locker while sailing in rough seas. Not a pleasant experience to have a free standing mast "rolling" around in the deck hole. You can only hope that it will not come out of its seat down below (actually, the haliard tension and the boom vang will prevent the mast from stepping out... as long as you keep the sail up!)

I'm trying to stay away from adhesives (silicone, polyurethane) as much as possible, for the reason stated above (taking the masts out). My ideal solution would be to put my hand on the original collars Freedom was using originally. But, hélas, Freedom Yachts is not answering calls anymore...

By the way Geoff, excellent picture. I can see that you have a custom made "ring" around on your deck hole which make it easy to attach your "booth" at the deck level.

katorpus
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by katorpus »

It seems that Freedom sailors are broken down into two groups:
1) Those who pull their masts with some regularity (for boat transport or winter haulout)
2) Those who leave their masts up unless there's a compelling need to pull it.

I'm addressing those in the latter group here

I have had great success with sealing the area between mast collar and mast with "caulk gunned" silicone (black). I put this in thirteen years ago, squirting down enough (after masking the mast, the collar and surrounding deck) to build up a sloped fillet of caulk from the mast downward to the collar (to shed water).

I tooled the silicone with an ICE CUBE. This is a wonderful approach which I hit upon in another life with swimming pool deck caulk. Spoons, fingers, and anything else used to tool it "dry out" at the most inopportune times, resulting in a mess. The ice cube won't dry out, and the resulting surface is as slick as glass. The only caveat is that you need to make VERY sure that you get down enough material before you start tooling, as the moisture from the melting cube will prevent the seal that you want between the silicone and anything else (including the silicone that's already down).

You can make up the "dams" to prevent the silicone from drooling down into the cabin from masking paper, tape, or a combination thereof. If you put them "below" the mast wedges, you'll be bedding in the wedges and they will never work loose (but will be very difficult to remove when you have to), and you will use more silicone. Your choice. All you're trying to do here is create a seal between the mast and the mast collar ring, and the thickness of silicone on top of the wedges is certainly sufficient to not be "too fragile" to hold up. Don't mask the surface of the mast or collar to which you want the silicone to bond (with the idea that you'll have an easier time removing it later). That might work for 60 or 90 days, but not for the long haul.

Use a "double layer" of masking tape on the mast and collar immediately adjacent to the void you are filling. I pulled the masking tape & paper immediately after application and tooling of the caulk. If you let the silicone set up first, then too large a "blob" may exceed the structural strength of the masking tape (after curing).

As I said above...thirteen years and counting...no mast leaks, no replacement or repair of the silicone. All I do is wash it at the same time as I scrub the decks. My boat resides in Corpus Christi, TX...sun is definitely a factor in the longevity of anything there, and it hasn't affected the silicone in all this time.

The ice cube trick will work with any caulking compound including latex, oil base, silicones, rubbers, polysulfides, Boat Life, or what have you...on the boat or around the house. I suppose you could even use it to slick the seams when recaulking teak decks (a task that I never plan to have to do).

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THATBOATGUY
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by THATBOATGUY »

Outstanding!!! That's exactly what I wanted to hear! I have used Permatex Ultrablack for various tasks since I discovered it about 10 years ago. I even use it in place of those stupid cork gaskets at the front and back of the intake manifold on small block GM V-8 motors. (BTW GM started doing the same thing!). The stuff is available in caulk gun tube size reasonably priced... I think I found a winner.

George
George and Kerri Huffman S/V Marquesa Freedom 40 CC CK Sail MarquesaImage

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Michel
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Re: Mast collars material

Post by Michel »

I used two part PU resin to cast both mast wedges and a watertight collar. If you want to prevent the resin from sticking to the mast or deck partners, cover it in vaseline. I chose to let the resin stick to the mast but not to the deck partners. If I have to take out the masts, the resin collar remains in the right spot around the mast (I hope). The PU resin is not UV resistant so I have to paint it over someday soon. Here are some pics.
Casting the resin.
Casting the resin.
485431142_9734f49b93.jpg (28.74 KiB) Viewed 10099 times
The final result.
The final result.
488748440_a30f2db209.jpg (18.83 KiB) Viewed 10100 times
Attachments
Here's the cured casting of the wedge. The deck collar still has to be replaced and the watertight seal has to be cast inside the deck collar.
Here's the cured casting of the wedge. The deck collar still has to be replaced and the watertight seal has to be cast inside the deck collar.
PU mast wedge.jpg (18.48 KiB) Viewed 10011 times
Last edited by Michel on Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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