freedom 25 rigging question

[R. Bush]

I got the boat for basically the value of the trailer. The latest seller also told me the engine was in great shape, but the inspector was suspicious, so I had the Yanmar dealer check it out. He said it needed a complete rebuilt so I decided to replace the whole thing with new. The floor had been replaced, but it was a shoddy job, so I went ahead and had it replaced again with fibreglass. Not as pretty as the teak and holly original, but sandy feet won't bother it.

There aren't many of these boats out here on the West Coast, so I am having to heavily rely on this forum as a source of information. I have just retired, and am trying to remember how things are done after 20 years away from the water and sailing. I first saw the Freedoms 25 years ago when I was working in England, and have wanted one ever since. I am sure I have a basically good boat here, but it sounds as if your colledge owner is the one responsible for me being short of so many of the little things that are needed to make it work. I am in the process of coming up with a shopping list so that I can give West Marine some more of my money!

[hxschiller]

If you're going forward with the bolt idea, I strongly recommend that the bolt and its threads be coated with anti-seize compound (get it at auto supply stores). The mast step is in the bilge (water), and located in an area where your agility and strength could be severly tested in the future if you leave out the anti-seize step.

[R. Bush]

I think the bolt idea won't work for me. The diagram talks about tapping the bolt into the aluminum mast base, but when I took a close look at my base it appears to be some kind of hard plastic or perhaps fibreglass resin. Maby when they switched from aluminum to plastic for the mast base they were forced to change from a bolt to the bracket that my boat appears to have had.

I think my best bet now is to get an SS bracket made up to fit the existing holes in the mast and base. I will use some rivets to hold the bracket to the mast for the rest of this year, and then get some proper bolts this coming winter.

I wonder why Freedom changed from an aluminum to a resin step design?

Any ideas where I can purchase a new mast collar to replace the one I have that is missing a chunk. I have gone thru the West Marine catalogue, and they don't appear to carry anything like them.

[yarrow]

what do people feel about melges 24 mail sail compared to full batten freedom sail? this would be for a winged F25?
cheers

[johncd3141]

A Melges 24 main is close in P, E and sail area; but you already knew that.

You lose the benefits of full battens and the draft may be too far aft, but if it's cheap go for it and let us know how it works.

[yarrow]

anybody have any input on putting a winged F25 on a mooring, with the wing sail the boat with no sail? can this work or not?
cheers,
yarrow

[Oceansail0]

Can anyone give some measurments for the L bracket.
Distance from the Mast to the center of the boat bolt?
Distance up the mast to the center of the 1st bolt and then distance to the 2nd bolt?

Or even better does anyone know were a replacement L bracket can be obtained?

[R. Bush]

My boat came without the mast bracket. I made a cardboard template with holes matching where the holes in my mast and base were and took it to my local machine shop. They made me a new bracket from heavy SS stock. I forget the price, but it was pretty reasonable, and you do need that bracket to prevent the mast from rotating.

[peaceandfreedom]

I have two extra brackets. Send me and email if you are interested. Alternatively you could drill a hole straight through both sides of the mast and through the top hat mast step. One long bolt going straight though the mast base will keep the mast from rotating.

happy sailing
Jim D

[yarrow]

I have the bracket like the picture above and it keeps the mast down, I also use wood wedges to center the mast in the hole. Between both systems the mast is very solid and does not rotate or move up and down.