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wcwcwc While you're in there with your endoscope, point it upwards. If there's an inspection plate in the tank somewhere, you'll be able to see the screw ends and the gasket and the hole which they cover. It ought to be pretty simple from there to figure out where to "look" for the inspection plate ...

The screws for the inspection plates on the tanks in my (1981 vintage ) F-40 aft cockpit are threaded into the aluminum of the tank top. There are no nuts. There should be a stick-on manufacturers plate on the tank. All of mine (water & fuel) were made by Florida Tank. If that's what yours say, then...

They will pump the distance. I'm not a fan of the little plastic ones. A diaphragm type pump (check the Defender website) will last a lot longer and be able to "help" in the event that you're taking on water while off away from the dock. Disregard all the "gallons per hour" claims on the "dinky" pum...

I know nothing about the 1GM Yanmar, but... here's a little "Marine Exhaust 101" Looking at the top of the engine from the front, you will notice an exhaust manifold tying each of the cylinders together and piped to an elbow which contains a hose fitting which leads back to the heat exchanger and ul...

The other thing to look for in trying to make your pump work... That large coiled corrugated vinyl hose only needs to have one small crack or puncture in it to prevent the suction from the pump from drawing the water out of the bilge. I'd take that hose off and test it by plugging up one end and fil...

That's really sweet, George

Lots of work represented in those photos (the boat, not the people )

My experience with zippered biminis causes me to shudder to think of what's going to happen to these sails when the zipper starts "stiffening up" with salt & age, as it inevitably will. I can see using this approach on a dry sailed day sailer where the sails are removed (and maybe even washed clean)...

George

About that book...who wrote it,and what is the name of it?

Just remember this... Products designed to make painted surfaces look better aren't designed to "cut", since the paint layers are very thin. The objective is to remove the oxidized layer of "already dead" paint (which your cleaner apparently does) and little or nothing more and to make what's left b...

I think that the difference here is this... The process Mark used was actually grinding away some of the detiorated plastic (four steps with ever-finer grit to eliminate the scratches caused by the larger grit in the previous step). Michel was, most likely, "filling" the scratches with the cleaner w...