Posted by Ed Doran (skyebyrd2003@…>)
I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has fitted their boat with a
windlass. There seem to be many problems in doing so. I’d like to
hear how you solved the problems.
Thanks,
Ed Doran
s/v Skybird
http://www.skybirdcruise.com
Posted by George E. Herchenroether (g.herk@…>)
We added a Lofrans two years ago to our f45. Mounted it on deck aft of the anchor well. At the same time we added a new bow sprit with double rollers. So we redesigned the entire bow area. The windlass is in line with our primary anchor and all chain and rope are piped down to the chain locker. The upper anchor locker is not used with the windlass.
The Lofrans is superb. We use only the ondeck foot controls, and did not opt for the remote ctl. It can be added later if you want it.
From this experience I suggest you think through the project very completely before buying or beginning work.
George HerchenroetherCommunity Volunteer401.847.2028g.herk@…
"Never doubt that a small group of committed citizens can change theworld. Indeed, it’s the only thing that has."Margaret Mead
Posted by ketchman47 (katch47@…>)
Ed- we got an F36 ketch two years ago and fitted a Lofrans Marlin
ahead of the mast. The advantage of the vertical model is that the
gypsy (chain drive) can be de-clutched so the drum (rope) still
spins- hence you can work two anchors, haul someone up the mast,
etc. The draw is low for a windlass hence good for the smaller
boats, and is well made and very well supported by the distributor
(needed longer bolts because of our cored deck- shipped free of
charge in two days). I use the remote only because of small deck
space ahead of the mainmast. Very important to prepare deck and
backing plate for strength. Lenny
Posted by john reed (john-reed@…>)
Ed,
We haven’t fitted our F32 with a windlass yet but we’re going to in the near future. I understand the problem. The deck pipe to the rode locker is offset to the starboard side so it is not a straight line from the bow roller to the rode locker. Since the rode locker is on the centerline of the boat, I had planned to move the deck pipe to line up with the roller. The bow cleat may turn out to be a problem but I think I can work that out by moving it forward a bit.
I’d also be interested in what others have done. Like rigging the windlass so that the existing deck pipe is usable. I see a gallon or two of West System going into this project by the time I backfill the core I’ll be disturbing. I have considered putting a mounted with its axis vertical in line with the bow and running the rode around that to the windlass, mounted on an angle to the starboard side so that the rode would dump into the deck pipe. It’s not quite as simple as it looks at first since there is a height difference from the center line to the deck pipe which will have to be accounted for. I’m still working on that possibility but it looks like the glass solution is the most viable. Let me know what you come up with. I always willing to steal somebody’s good ideas.
John Reed
Langsam
-----Original Message-----From: Ed Doran [mailto:skyebyrd2003@…]Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 11:57 AMTo: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Anchor Windlass for Hoyt F-32I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has fitted their boat with a windlass. There seem to be many problems in doing so. I’d like to hear how you solved the problems. Thanks,Ed Dorans/v Skybirdhttp://www.skybirdcruise.com
Posted by rick_simonds (rick_simonds@…>)
I installed a vertical Muir on my 32 about 4 years ago. Despite some
glitches I absolutely love having it.
I can give you my one absolute bit of hard-won knowledge: Do whatever
you can to place the windlass as far forward as possible so the drop
from the windlass to the chain locker will be as straight as
possible! MAKE THE DROP VERTICAL, if you can. You might not be able
to, there’s some conflicts from the fitting at the base of the
jibstay on deck and also a plywood diagonal stiffener underneath in
the center of the chain locker. Mine ended up just barely aft of the
door to the forepeak with a quite steep, but not vertical, pipe for
the rode. That’s the one difficulty I have with mine: despite that
very steep “feeder” pipe between the windlass and the forepeak it is
hard to get a rope rode to reliably feed down the pipe and into the
forepeak automatically. Chain always works fine because of its
weight, rope will usually clog up in the pipe without some help.
I’m vaguely keeping my eye out for a good deal on chain and I’ll get
a bunch of it, 100 feet or more, when I find it. I like a nylon rode
and despite all that weight in a very bad place on the boat, a
definite negative, it is just so much easier to use chain with mine
that I’m sure I`ll end up with (nearly) all chain someday.
I’m not sure you’ll be able to use the original chain pipe or that
you even want to. I think the windlass should probably be installed
in line with the bow roller, but your mileage may vary. Any
windlasses will almost certainly have its own chain pipe anyway. My
original chain pipe is now used for a pull-out hand-held remote
control for the windlass. One day it will also contain a pull-out
hose for a deck wash pump, but that hasn’t happened yet. I mounted my
windlass about in place of the original large bow cleat and moved the
cleat to starboard beside the windlass. The rode gets taken off the
windlass and placed on the cleat once the anchor is on the bottom.
Some totally random details I`ve learned over time: In a bouncy
anchorage the “foot” switches are often actually “knee” switches, you
have to crawl around just to hold on sometimes. I’d like to say I
knew this ahead of time and sagely placed mine accordingly, but the
fact is I just lucked out. Crawl around a bit when you’re deciding on
the placement of the switches and see if you can still tail the
windlass if needed while mashing the “up” switch with your knee.
I’d plan on both “up” and “down” foot switches for the windlass, even
if you get a free fall windlass. I only had an “up” switch originally
but I changed to both. (When weighing, I occasionally have to reverse
the windlass momentarily to clear a minor chain twist and this takes
just a second with both switches but was a giant pain without
the “down” switch.) I actually have 3 switches available: the hand
held remote, the foredeck foot switches and also an up and down
toggle switch at the helm. The hand remote is a bit superfluous now
that I have the “down” foot switch but I very strongly recommend
installing a cockpit switch. With crew, someone will just use the
foot switches, but single handed the cockpit switch is invaluable.
Single handed, I use the foot switches to get to a very short, nearly
vertical (and all chain) scope then, after a leisurely stroll to the
helm, I use the cockpit switch for hauling the last of it off the
bottom. I listen for the big “clonk” of the anchor going into the bow
roller and just drive or sail away, [yawn]…, nothin` to it (to be
completely honest, I feel a little bit smug every time.) The cockpit
switch also greatly simplifies setting the anchor single handed in a
blow or a current. I can be at the helm and use the throttle and
wheel to hover over the exact spot I want and let go of the anchor
from there. I drop some extra slack in the rode, stroll to the bow
while the boat gathers some sternway and I snub it off on the bow
cleat. I almost can’t miss. For $20 of wire and a $4 switch, I think
this one’s a no-brainer.
I can continue to ramble, I suppose, but do you have specific
questions? I’d also be happy to send some pictures of mine if you
want.
Posted by thomas irick (tomirick@…>)
I believe you sent this to the wrong guy. I had a question regarding rudder bearings. Good luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: rick_simonds
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 6:07 PM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Anchor Windlass for Hoyt F-32
I installed a vertical Muir on my 32 about 4 years ago. Despite some glitches I absolutely love having it. I can give you my one absolute bit of hard-won knowledge: Do whatever you can to place the windlass as far forward as possible so the drop from the windlass to the chain locker will be as straight as possible! MAKE THE DROP VERTICAL, if you can. You might not be able to, there’s some conflicts from the fitting at the base of the jibstay on deck and also a plywood diagonal stiffener underneath in the center of the chain locker. Mine ended up just barely aft of the door to the forepeak with a quite steep, but not vertical, pipe for the rode. That’s the one difficulty I have with mine: despite that very steep “feeder” pipe between the windlass and the forepeak it is hard to get a rope rode to reliably feed down the pipe and into the forepeak automatically. Chain always works fine because of its weight, rope will usually clog up in the pipe without some help.I’m vaguely keeping my eye out for a good deal on chain and I’ll get a bunch of it, 100 feet or more, when I find it. I like a nylon rode and despite all that weight in a very bad place on the boat, a definite negative, it is just so much easier to use chain with mine that I’m sure Ill end up with (nearly) all chain someday.I'm not sure you'll be able to use the original chain pipe or that you even want to. I think the windlass should probably be installed in line with the bow roller, but your mileage may vary. Any windlasses will almost certainly have its own chain pipe anyway. My original chain pipe is now used for a pull-out hand-held remote control for the windlass. One day it will also contain a pull-out hose for a deck wash pump, but that hasn't happened yet. I mounted my windlass about in place of the original large bow cleat and moved the cleat to starboard beside the windlass. The rode gets taken off the windlass and placed on the cleat once the anchor is on the bottom.Some totally random details Ive learned over time: In a bouncy anchorage the “foot” switches are often actually “knee” switches, you have to crawl around just to hold on sometimes. I’d like to say I knew this ahead of time and sagely placed mine accordingly, but the fact is I just lucked out. Crawl around a bit when you’re deciding on the placement of the switches and see if you can still tail the windlass if needed while mashing the “up” switch with your knee.I’d plan on both “up” and “down” foot switches for the windlass, even if you get a free fall windlass. I only had an “up” switch originally but I changed to both. (When weighing, I occasionally have to reverse the windlass momentarily to clear a minor chain twist and this takes just a second with both switches but was a giant pain without the “down” switch.) I actually have 3 switches available: the hand held remote, the foredeck foot switches and also an up and down toggle switch at the helm. The hand remote is a bit superfluous now that I have the “down” foot switch but I very strongly recommend installing a cockpit switch. With crew, someone will just use the foot switches, but single handed the cockpit switch is invaluable. Single handed, I use the foot switches to get to a very short, nearly vertical (and all chain) scope then, after a leisurely stroll to the helm, I use the cockpit switch for hauling the last of it off the bottom. I listen for the big “clonk” of the anchor going into the bow roller and just drive or sail away, [yawn]…, nothin` to it (to be completely honest, I feel a little bit smug every time.) The cockpit switch also greatly simplifies setting the anchor single handed in a blow or a current. I can be at the helm and use the throttle and wheel to hover over the exact spot I want and let go of the anchor from there. I drop some extra slack in the rode, stroll to the bow while the boat gathers some sternway and I snub it off on the bow cleat. I almost can’t miss. For $20 of wire and a $4 switch, I think this one’s a no-brainer.I can continue to ramble, I suppose, but do you have specific questions? I’d also be happy to send some pictures of mine if you want.