Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)
…that you can get a sunburn through clear shrinkwrap? I don’t know
why I didn’t know that, or why I thought I wouldn’t, but after
sanding, taping, and painting the deck on Bright Star yesterday, it
looked like I was in the running for ‘Pinkest Lobster.’ Just an FYI
for any of you working under the wrap.
On an entirely unrelated topic, anyone with a F40 or f44 ck (don’t
know about the other ck’s) have problems with deck drainage?
the ‘solution’ if you can call it that on Bright Star are two holes -
one on each rail, drilled through the aluminum toe rail. I end up with
two great lakes of filth on either side, and may be the worst thought-
out part of the boat. Has anyone tackled this problem, and if so, how?
Am I looking at major surgery to make something somewhat useful?
Lance
Posted by Michel Capel (mike_c_f35ck@…>)
Lance,
Why on earth did you wrap yourself in clear plastic before starting
sanding and painting? Are you trying to loose some weight in the mean
time? A red haired, pale skinned friend of mine used to cover his head
in sun lotion before going off for a day under the plastic bubble of
his glider plane, so yes, clear plastic lets through UV.
On the other topic: the F33/F35 catketches are even worse. We have a 3
inch ‘bullwark’ with the toe rail on top. The drainage has a through
hull in the deck and 10 inch lower a through hull in the hull, way
above the waterline. We not only have a green puddle on the deck
around the through deck, but also black stripes along the hull, from
the through hull down to the waterline. Inside the boat, there is a
short hose connecting the two through hulls. So basically water that
could stay outside is fed into the interior before it’s fed outside
again.
Mike
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:
…that you can get a sunburn through clear shrinkwrap? I don’t know
why I didn’t know that, or why I thought I wouldn’t, but after
sanding, taping, and painting the deck on Bright Star yesterday, it
looked like I was in the running for ‘Pinkest Lobster.’ Just an FYI
for any of you working under the wrap.
On an entirely unrelated topic, anyone with a F40 or f44 ck (don’t
know about the other ck’s) have problems with deck drainage?
the ‘solution’ if you can call it that on Bright Star are two holes -
one on each rail, drilled through the aluminum toe rail. I end up
with
two great lakes of filth on either side, and may be the worst thought-
out part of the boat. Has anyone tackled this problem, and if so,
how?
Am I looking at major surgery to make something somewhat useful?
Lance
Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)
Interesting. My 33 doesn’t have this arrangement. Maybe because it has a teak toerail with drainage slots cut in it. There now I can justify all the varnishing.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michel Capel
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 10:57 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Did you know…
Lance,Why on earth did you wrap yourself in clear plastic before starting sanding and painting? Are you trying to loose some weight in the mean time? A red haired, pale skinned friend of mine used to cover his head in sun lotion before going off for a day under the plastic bubble of his glider plane, so yes, clear plastic lets through UV.On the other topic: the F33/F35 catketches are even worse. We have a 3 inch ‘bullwark’ with the toe rail on top. The drainage has a through hull in the deck and 10 inch lower a through hull in the hull, way above the waterline. We not only have a green puddle on the deck around the through deck, but also black stripes along the hull, from the through hull down to the waterline. Inside the boat, there is a short hose connecting the two through hulls. So basically water that could stay outside is fed into the interior before it’s fed outside again. Mike— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley” <lance_ryley@y…> wrote:> > …that you can get a sunburn through clear shrinkwrap? I don’t know > why I didn’t know that, or why I thought I wouldn’t, but after > sanding, taping, and painting the deck on Bright Star yesterday, it > looked like I was in the running for ‘Pinkest Lobster.’ Just an FYI > for any of you working under the wrap.> > On an entirely unrelated topic, anyone with a F40 or f44 ck (don’t > know about the other ck’s) have problems with deck drainage? > the ‘solution’ if you can call it that on Bright Star are two holes - > one on each rail, drilled through the aluminum toe rail. I end up with > two great lakes of filth on either side, and may be the worst thought-> out part of the boat. Has anyone tackled this problem, and if so, how? > Am I looking at major surgery to make something somewhat useful?> > Lance
Posted by seatimsboat@… (seatimsboat@…)
My F 40 hull no. 8 has 12 inch bulwarks. The water drains both through 3 inch housers and flush mounted scuppers in the decks that are capped with bronze strainers. The scuppers have flanges that have hoses attached with stainless clamps. The hoses lead to manifolds in the hold to which the cockpit scuppers are also attached. Two 6 inch hoses on each manifold, port and starboard, are then lead to two though hulls, both port and starboard. just above the water line. No water accumulates and there are no stains but the stainless hose clamps are hard to access. I have not had problems with freezing as there is a significant slope in all parts of the system. I always worry about a system which relies on hose clamps to keep a boat afloat and have often wondered if something as simple as the failure of these clamps could have played a part in the sinking of Charlie’s Crab
Perhaps this is why the system was abandoned on later Freedoms. Having said that, I have had my boat for over 20 years and have never had a problem with the arrangement. I am very careful to inspect the hose clamps regularly and have as yet not needed to replace any. Tim
Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)
Freedom offered a deck scupper option on the 36 to solve the same
problem. It may work for you if you have a routing for an interior
hose to the stern that can be hidden. The scupper consists of a
flush through hull fitting mounted in the deck at the low point of
the puddle. On the 36, the starboard hose ran above the headliner in
the aft berth to a through hull just above the water line under the
transom. The port side ran through the lazarette to a similar
through hull. The deck scupper has a piece of bronze perforated
metal caulked in place that acts as a debris screen. Photo available
if you are interested. A note of caution: if this is workable for
you, make sure you have enough slope in the drain lines for positive
clear gravity drainage. Otherwise, you will have to put antifreeze
in the scuppers and seal the drains for the winter. No need to ask
how I found out about that one.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:
…that you can get a sunburn through clear shrinkwrap? I don’t
know
why I didn’t know that, or why I thought I wouldn’t, but after
sanding, taping, and painting the deck on Bright Star yesterday,
it
looked like I was in the running for ‘Pinkest Lobster.’ Just an
FYI
for any of you working under the wrap.
On an entirely unrelated topic, anyone with a F40 or f44 ck (don’t
know about the other ck’s) have problems with deck drainage?
the ‘solution’ if you can call it that on Bright Star are two
holes -
one on each rail, drilled through the aluminum toe rail. I end up
with
two great lakes of filth on either side, and may be the worst
thought-
out part of the boat. Has anyone tackled this problem, and if so,
how?
Am I looking at major surgery to make something somewhat useful?
Lance
Posted by katorpus (katorpus@…>)
I always worry about a system which
relies on hose clamps to keep a boat afloat and have often wondered
if something
as simple as the failure of these clamps could have played a part in
the
sinking of Charlie’s Crab
I too worry about hose clamps keeping the boat afloat, but I’ve FOUND
the solution…particularly those which are nearly impossible to get
to.
Google up “titanium hose clamps”…there are several sources. They
cost about double what the “normal GOOD ones” go for…but WHO CARES??
Titanium will never rust or corrode…the perfect solution. Replace
them one more time, and sleep well at night.
Posted by katorpus (katorpus@…>)
On an entirely unrelated topic, anyone with a F40 or f44 ck (don’t
know about the other ck’s) have problems with deck drainage?
the ‘solution’ if you can call it that on Bright Star are two
holes -
one on each rail, drilled through the aluminum toe rail. I end up
with
two great lakes of filth on either side, and may be the worst
thought-
out part of the boat. Has anyone tackled this problem, and if so,
how?
Am I looking at major surgery to make something somewhat useful?
Lance
This drives me nuts too Lance. I have the bronze plate covered deck
scuppers on aft cockpit F40 Hull #61, but they didn’t mount them in
the lowest spot on the deck (and no, the bow isn’t overweighted by
my all-nylon rode). Incredibly…the starboard side scupper drains
right into the furthest aft portlight…D-U-M-B.
I figured out how to deal with the scuppers and the black streaks
that result…cut a “tongue” out of an old bleach bottle (my hull &
deck are white) and curl it into the scupper from outside the toe
rail. The curl keeps it in place (at the dock), if you leave it long
enough, most of the water will drain clear of the hull and drip into
the water without running down the side of the boat. Of course,
the “inside” end of the tongue is cut square.
As far as draining the lakes…I’ve actually considered boring a
hole at an angle from the center of the lowspot and out through the
outside of the hull, counterboring the hole at the deck level, and
bedding in a piece of bronze tubing (flared at the deck level end).
I haven’t done this and may never…but I don’t know what ELSE might
work.) The hole would be between 5/16" and 3/8", with the tubing
sized to fit snugly. I predict that this would be through solid
glass the whole way. This tube would (no doubt) plug up easily and
probably wouldn’t be worth the effort, but being a short run,
wouldn’t be hard to ream out when necessary.
I have the same “lake” problem inside the bulwarks where the aft
bulkhead joins the cabin top. Rainwater & dirt pond before running
off into the cockpit.
Neither of these is a problem when actually SAILING the boat, so I
think the best solution is just to never stay at the dock. (wink,
wink)