Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F on my F-30. It has spent most of its years in Texas, Mobile, and Florida and now lives in MD. On a warm day when you push the start button it barely turns one rev and its already running. However if it is 60 degrees you need to put a blanket around (usually my little portable heater) it for awhile before trying to start it. Doesnt anyone have a diesel warm which I believe is a little more sophisticated then my solution?BobOn Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Geoffrey Schultz wrote:I think that the real issue was storing the boat in the Caribbean for hurricane season for many years. On the east coast it doesn’t begin to get as hot as it is in Grenada, Honduras or Guatemala. – Geoff — In FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@ …> wrote: > > I’m surprised thatt you have to replace the headliners already after 9 > years. As far as my experience goes, the foam backing would last about > 15 years before it’s crumbled. > > I replaced the headliners of my 1981 F44 two years ago and I found > lots of wet bolts of hardware. Because my deck was spraypainted, I > took of all (yes everything) hardware off the deck. I found that > Freedom did not do a very good job in bedding the deck hardware; The > balsa core wasn’t sealed and the bolt shafts were not covered in > sealant at quite a few holes. > > Michel > > > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com, “Geoffrey Schultz” > <geoff.freedom@ > wrote: > > > > I have a Freedom 40/40, hull #25, which was built in 1997. It’s been > > 9 years since I had the boat back near my home in MA, but this year > > it’s sitting at Brewer’s Sakonnet in Portsmouth, RI and I’ve been > > doing a lot of work on it. I’ve discovered a two issues that > > certainly weren’t obvious, and perhaps warrant looking at on your boats. > > > > 1) I’m replacing the headliner due to the foam backing deteriorating > > and I was quite surprised to discover that some of the bolts holding > > the traveler assembly are leaking and the bolts are covered with brown > > glop. The balsa core around these bolts is wet. I’ll be pulling the > > assembly next time I go down to the boat and re-bedding the bolts. > > > > 2) A majority of my portholes have water intrusion through the screw > > holes on the outer ring. I’ve just finished rebedding all 14(?) > > portholes with Sikaflex. That was a 3 days job… > > > > You may want to look at this on your boat. I sure wasn’t expecting > > what I found and without pulling the headliner, I wouldn’t have found > > these. > > > > – Geoff > > >
Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)
Bob:
All
of my boats have been on the Chesapeake and I’ve never had to do that. What
grade oil are you using? Have you checked your batteries?
But
usual way to keep diesels warm in the winter (cars and trucks) is to put a shop
light under the hood. If you’ve got shore power, a shop light in the engine
compartment would probably work. I also think there’s an electric thing you
can stick into the dipstick tube to keep the oil warn. But I really don’t think
that should be necessary unless something else is wrong.
Al
Lorman
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 3:12 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Diesel Engine
\
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F on my F-30. It has spent most of its
years in Texas, Mobile, and Florida and now lives in MD. On a warm day
when you push the start button it barely turns one rev and its already
running. However if it is 60 degrees you need to put a blanket around
(usually my little portable heater) it for awhile before trying to start
it. Doesnt anyone have a diesel warm which I believe is a little more sophisticated
then my solution?
Bob
On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Geoffrey Schultz wrote:
I
think that the real issue was storing the boat in the Caribbean for
hurricane
season for many years. On the east coast it doesn’t begin
to
get as hot as it is in Grenada, Honduras or Guatemala.
–
Geoff
In FreedomOwnersGroup@
yahoogroups. com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@
…> wrote:
I’m surprised thatt you have to replace the headliners already after 9
years. As far as my experience goes, the foam backing would last about
15 years before it’s crumbled.
I replaced the headliners of my 1981 F44 two years ago and I found
lots of wet bolts of hardware. Because my deck was spraypainted, I
took of all (yes everything) hardware off the deck. I found that
Freedom did not do a very good job in bedding the deck hardware; The
balsa core wasn’t sealed and the bolt shafts were not covered in
sealant at quite a few holes.
Michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@
yahoogroups. com, “Geoffrey Schultz”
<geoff.freedom@ > wrote:
I have a Freedom 40/40, hull #25, which was built in 1997. It’s been
9 years since I had the boat back near my home in MA, but this year
it’s sitting at Brewer’s Sakonnet in Portsmouth, RI and I’ve been
doing a lot of work on it. I’ve discovered a two issues that
certainly weren’t obvious, and perhaps warrant looking at on your
boats.
- I’m replacing the headliner due to the foam backing deteriorating
and I was quite surprised to discover that some of the bolts holding
the traveler assembly are leaking and the bolts are covered with brown
glop. The balsa core around these bolts is wet. I’ll be
pulling theassembly next time I go down to the boat and re-bedding the bolts.
- A majority of my portholes have water intrusion through the screw
holes on the outer ring. I’ve just finished rebedding all 14(?)
portholes with Sikaflex. That was a 3 days job…
You may want to look at this on your boat. I sure wasn’t expecting
what I found and without pulling the headliner, I wouldn’t have found
these.
– Geoff
\
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
Bob,
Have you experimented with the throttle control setting? I
find my 2GM starts relatively easily when the “throttle” handle is at
about 2/3rds maximum setting. I crank at this position, and have my
hand on the throttle handle to quickly reduce down to 1000 RPM the
instant the engine fires. BTW this boat is in coastal NC. Herm
At 03:11 PM 11/20/2008, you wrote:
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F on my F-30. It has spent most of its years
in Texas, Mobile, and Florida and now lives in MD. On a warm day
when you push the start button it barely turns one rev and its
already running. However if it is 60 degrees you need to put a
blanket around (usually my little portable heater) it for awhile
before trying to start it. Doesnt anyone have a diesel warm which I
believe is a little more sophisticated then my solution?Bob
On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Geoffrey Schultz wrote:
I think that the real issue was storing the boat in the Caribbean for
hurricane season for many years. On the east coast it doesn’t begin
to get as hot as it is in Grenada, Honduras or Guatemala.– Geoff
— In
<mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>FreedomOwnersGroup@
yahoogroups. com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@ …> wrote:I’m surprised thatt you have to replace the headliners already after 9
years. As far as my experience goes, the foam backing would last about
15 years before it’s crumbled.
Posted by lolaltd (lolaltd@…>)
Hello,
I bought a couple of those Golden Rods on Ebay…saw them at a boat
show too…They don’t get real hot, but put out a little heat…spose
to keep air dry too.
Wonder if they would work…however they are elec.
Lola F30 1987
Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Hi Bob,
I’ve started those little yanmars down to around freezing without any kind of
preheat. My Nimble had the same model motor as in your boat. I’d hunt another
issue. But another way to help a cold diesel start is to shoot hot air from a
heat gun or hair drier directly into the air intake. Just un-clip the cover,
remove the air filter and direct the hot air into the motor while cranking.
When I’ve had slow turn over speeds do to cold weather (which might be a part of
your problem) I’ve sometimes used the compression release levers to allow the
motor to spin up to speed and then dropped them one at a time. Also always use
full speed on the accelerator. Of course roll it back to slower RPMs as soon as
it starts.
George
Posted by Roger L. (rogerlov@…>)
Yanmar makes a simple device called a “thermostart” which is a universal device used on many of their tractor motors. Very clever device and I’ve not seen it on many diesels. It will start a tractor down to about 30F. The Yanmar thermostart doesn’t draw much current and mounts by drilling a singel14mm hole anywhere in the intake manifold between air cleaner and intake valve. It holds about two spoonfuls of diesel in a tiny tank which will last a winter season. I’ve got the setup on two of Yanmar tractor motors.
Roger F28
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 1:11 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Diesel Engine
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F on my F-30. It has spent most of its years in Texas, Mobile, and Florida and now lives in MD. On a warm day when you push the start button it barely turns one rev and its already running. However if it is 60 degrees you need to put a blanket around (usually my little portable heater) it for awhile before trying to start it. Doesnt anyone have a diesel warm which I believe is a little more sophisticated then my solution?
Bob
On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Geoffrey Schultz wrote:
I think that the real issue was storing the boat in the Caribbean for
hurricane season for many years. On the east coast it doesn’t begin
to get as hot as it is in Grenada, Honduras or Guatemala.
– Geoff
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@ …> wrote:
I’m surprised thatt you have to replace the headliners already after 9
years. As far as my experience goes, the foam backing would last about
15 years before it’s crumbled.I replaced the headliners of my 1981 F44 two years ago and I found
lots of wet bolts of hardware. Because my deck was spraypainted, I
took of all (yes everything) hardware off the deck. I found that
Freedom did not do a very good job in bedding the deck hardware; The
balsa core wasn’t sealed and the bolt shafts were not covered in
sealant at quite a few holes.Michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com, “Geoffrey Schultz”
<geoff.freedom@ > wrote:I have a Freedom 40/40, hull #25, which was built in 1997. It’s been
9 years since I had the boat back near my home in MA, but this year
it’s sitting at Brewer’s Sakonnet in Portsmouth, RI and I’ve been
doing a lot of work on it. I’ve discovered a two issues that
certainly weren’t obvious, and perhaps warrant looking at on your
boats.
I’m replacing the headliner due to the foam backing deteriorating
and I was quite surprised to discover that some of the bolts holding
the traveler assembly are leaking and the bolts are covered with brown
glop. The balsa core around these bolts is wet. I’ll be pulling the
assembly next time I go down to the boat and re-bedding the bolts.A majority of my portholes have water intrusion through the screw
holes on the outer ring. I’ve just finished rebedding all 14(?)
portholes with Sikaflex. That was a 3 days job…You may want to look at this on your boat. I sure wasn’t expecting
what I found and without pulling the headliner, I wouldn’t have found
these.– Geoff
\
Posted by paulsebra (paulsebra@…>)
Good Day Bob,
You should not need any special gimmicks to start a boat engine in
the Chesapeake any time of year. The things to check are …
If slow cranking …
- test battery,
- clean and test ALL battery cables and connections - small amounts
of corrosion can cause big resitance - the wiring to the starter on
your Freedom may not be tinned - if not, I would replace it all.
Remember the boat Electricians Credo - Corrosion is resistance -
Resistance is heat - Heat is fire - Fire is bad
- Use a good multigrade engine oil - 15W-40 or similar - I use
synthetic blends
If it cranks okay but does not fire
- Check Compression
- Have injectors rebuilt (good idea every 10 years or 1000 hours)
- The rebuild shop can check HP fuel pump as well
- Check timing
If all of the above checks out … your engine should fire up - no
problem - in weather in the 30’s …
Good Luck
Paul
Posted by Stephen Dewey (stephendewey@…>)
In addition to Paul’s comments:It should be noted that since the yanmars generally don’t rely on any kind of preheat (glow plugs etc.) it may take a bit of cranking before they fire in colder weather. On a cold morning, it often takes us 2 - 3, 30 second crank sessions (with a rest in between) before the 3GM on my parent’s freedom 38 will fire.Additionally, a deep discharge type battery (typical house battery) won’t deliver high current (amps) as fast as a starting battery with thinner plates. This will cause slower cranking, especially in colder weather, prolonging the starting process. Lastly, if the battery bank is mounted remotely from the engine, significant loss can occur in the (long) battery cables (which are generally undersize for delivering
hundreds of amps required for starting) Stephen Deweyhttp://www.linkedin.com/in/stephendeweyFrom: paulsebra <paulsebra@…>To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comSent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:15:10 AMSubject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Diesel Engine
Good Day Bob,
You should not need any special gimmicks to start a boat engine in
the Chesapeake any time of year. The things to check are …
If slow cranking …
- test battery,
- clean and test ALL battery cables and connections - small amounts
of corrosion can cause big resitance - the wiring to the starter on
your Freedom may not be tinned - if not, I would replace it all.
Remember the boat Electricians Credo - Corrosion is resistance -
Resistance is heat - Heat is fire - Fire is bad
- Use a good multigrade engine oil - 15W-40 or similar - I use
synthetic blends
If it cranks okay but does not fire
- Check Compression
- Have injectors rebuilt (good idea every 10 years or 1000 hours)
- The rebuild shop can check HP fuel pump as well
- Check timing
If all of the above checks out … your engine should fire up - no
problem - in weather in the 30’s …
Good Luck
Paul
\
Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)
Batteries are all charged to the hilt, its not batteries, the engine turns over all the time. Its like me, I am from Hawaii and very thin blooded so 60 degrees is like living in the north pole! My little portable heater seems to work well. I dont want to leave the light on all the time but that should work well also. Its only for a short period of time anyway I usually put the boat on the hard early November.BobOn Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 3:20 PM, Al Lorman wrote:Bob: All of my boats have been on the Chesapeake and I’ve never had to do that. What grade oil are you using? Have you checked your batteries? But usual way to keep diesels warm in the winter (cars and trucks) is to put a shop light under the hood. If you’ve got shore power, a shop light in the engine compartment would probably work. I also think there’s an electric thing you can stick into the dipstick tube to keep the oil warn. But I really don’t think that should be necessary unless something else is wrong. Al Lorman From: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:FreedomOwne rsGroup@yahoogro ups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 3:12 PM To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Diesel Engine I have a Yanmar 2GM20F on my F-30. It has spent most of its years in Texas, Mobile, and Florida and now lives in MD. On a warm day when you push the start button it barely turns one rev and its already running. However if it is 60 degrees you need to put a blanket around (usually my little portable heater) it for awhile before trying to start it. Doesnt anyone have a diesel warm which I believe is a little more sophisticated then my solution? Bob On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Geoffrey Schultz wrote: I think that the real issue was storing the boat in the Caribbean for hurricane season for many years. On the east coast it doesn’t begin to get as hot as it is in Grenada, Honduras or Guatemala. – Geoff — In FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@ …> wrote: > > I’m surprised thatt you have to replace the headliners already after 9 > years. As far as my experience goes, the foam backing would last about > 15 years before it’s crumbled. > > I replaced the headliners of my 1981 F44 two years ago and I found > lots of wet bolts of hardware. Because my deck was spraypainted, I > took of all (yes everything) hardware off the deck. I found that > Freedom did not do a very good job in bedding the deck hardware; The > balsa core wasn’t sealed and the bolt shafts were not covered in > sealant at quite a few holes. > > Michel > > > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com, “Geoffrey Schultz” > <geoff.freedom@ > wrote: > > > > I have a Freedom 40/40, hull #25, which was built in 1997. It’s been > > 9 years since I had the boat back near my home in MA, but this year > > it’s sitting at Brewer’s Sakonnet in Portsmouth, RI and I’ve been > > doing a lot of work on it. I’ve discovered a two issues that > > certainly weren’t obvious, and perhaps warrant looking at on your boats. > > > > 1) I’m replacing the headliner due to the foam backing deteriorating > > and I was quite surprised to discover that some of the bolts holding > > the traveler assembly are leaking and the bolts are covered with brown > > glop. The balsa core around these bolts is wet. I’ll be pulling the > > assembly next time I go down to the boat and re-bedding the bolts. > > > > 2) A majority of my portholes have water intrusion through the screw > > holes on the outer ring. I’ve just finished rebedding all 14(?) > > portholes with Sikaflex. That was a 3 days job… > > > > You may want to look at this on your boat. I sure wasn’t expecting > > what I found and without pulling the headliner, I wouldn’t have found > > these. > > > > – Geoff > > >
Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)
Understand but mine I believe its purely a cold block. During the warmer months its running in less then 5 sec from pushing the start button. BobOn Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 3:23 PM, Herman and Gail Schiller wrote:Bob, Have you experimented with the throttle control setting? I find my 2GM starts relatively easily when the “throttle” handle is at about 2/3rds maximum setting. I crank at this position, and have my hand on the throttle handle to quickly reduce down to 1000 RPM the instant the engine fires. BTW this boat is in coastal NC. Herm At 03:11 PM 11/20/2008, you wrote: >I have a Yanmar 2GM20F on my F-30. It has spent most of its years >in Texas, Mobile, and Florida and now lives in MD. On a warm day >when you push the start button it barely turns one rev and its >already running. However if it is 60 degrees you need to put a >blanket around (usually my little portable heater) it for awhile >before trying to start it. Doesnt anyone have a diesel warm which I >believe is a little more sophisticated then my solution? > >Bob > > >On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Geoffrey Schultz wrote: > >I think that the real issue was storing the boat in the Caribbean for >hurricane season for many years. On the east coast it doesn’t begin >to get as hot as it is in Grenada, Honduras or Guatemala. > >-- Geoff > >— In ><mailto: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com>FreedomOwnersGroup @ >yahoogroups. com, “michel.capel” ><michel.capel@ …> wrote: > > > > I’m surprised thatt you have to replace the headliners already after 9 > > years. As far as my experience goes, the foam backing would last about > > 15 years before it’s crumbled. >
Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)
Ok this closer to how I should have explained my question. It does take 2-3, 30 sec cranking tries to get it going and then it still does not want to fully wake up. And it is the mornings that I am dealing with, usually the coldest part of the day. And I dont have a separate starting battery but two gel batteries. For the winter project I plan to add a regular starting battery to the current system.Ok it sounds not to unusual.BobOn Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 10:31 AM, Stephen Dewey wrote:In addition to Paul’s comments: It should be noted that since the yanmars generally don’t rely on any kind of preheat (glow plugs etc.) it may take a bit of cranking before they fire in colder weather. On a cold morning, it often takes us 2 - 3, 30 second crank sessions (with a rest in between) before the 3GM on my parent’s freedom 38 will fire. Additionally, a deep discharge type battery (typical house battery) won’t deliver high current (amps) as fast as a starting battery with thinner plates. This will cause slower cranking, especially in colder weather, prolonging the starting process. Lastly, if the battery bank is mounted remotely from the engine, significant loss can occur in the (long) battery cables (which are generally undersize for delivering hundreds of amps required for starting) Stephen Dewey http://www.linkedin .com/in/stephend ewey ___________________________________From: paulsebra <paulsebra@yahoo. com> To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:15:10 AM Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Re: Diesel Engine Good Day Bob, You should not need any special gimmicks to start a boat engine in the Chesapeake any time of year. The things to check are … If slow cranking … 1. test battery, 2. clean and test ALL battery cables and connections - small amounts of corrosion can cause big resitance - the wiring to the starter on your Freedom may not be tinned - if not, I would replace it all. Remember the boat Electricians Credo - Corrosion is resistance - Resistance is heat - Heat is fire - Fire is bad 3. Use a good multigrade engine oil - 15W-40 or similar - I use synthetic blends If it cranks okay but does not fire 1. Check Compression 2. Have injectors rebuilt (good idea every 10 years or 1000 hours) 3. The rebuild shop can check HP fuel pump as well 4. Check timing If all of the above checks out … your engine should fire up - no problem - in weather in the 30’s … Good Luck Paul
Posted by vladimir_ud (eremeev@…>)
Ok it sounds not to unusual.
Bob
My 2QM15 wouldn’t start too. It takes long cranking before it wakes up.
I had to start the engine after freezing night in remote location
without access to shore power recently. After several unsuccessful
attempts I boiled kettle of water and spill it all over the engine,
making sure that fuel lines are worm. Also I sprayed a little of WD-40
into air intake. It helped…
Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Hey! I did a trick like that one time out of desperation. I actually
drained the coolant from my Perkins, heated it on the stove and
returned it to the motor. Vroom vroom! They say that necessity is a
mother…
George
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “vladimir_ud” <eremeev@…>
wrote:
Ok it sounds not to unusual.
Bob
My 2QM15 wouldn’t start too. It takes long cranking before it wakes up.
I had to start the engine after freezing night in remote location
without access to shore power recently. After several unsuccessful
attempts I boiled kettle of water and spill it all over the engine,
making sure that fuel lines are worm. Also I sprayed a little of WD-40
into air intake. It helped…
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
There are spray cans of diesel starting fluid, available at auto
supply stores, that’s useful for guys who need to start a diesel in
subfreezing weather. Herm
At 12:46 AM 11/22/2008, you wrote:
Ok it sounds not to unusual.
Bob
My 2QM15 wouldn’t start too. It takes long cranking before it wakes up.
I had to start the engine after freezing night in remote location
without access to shore power recently. After several unsuccessful
attempts I boiled kettle of water and spill it all over the engine,
making sure that fuel lines are worm. Also I sprayed a little of WD-40
into air intake. It helped…
Posted by Stephen Dewey (stephendewey@…>)
I’d stay away from the “starting aids” aka ether. If you are too enthusiastic you can easily break your engine - cracked heads, holed pistons etc.I think the root cause of the original posters issue is the battery (which he plans to remedy this spring). Stephen Deweyhttp://www.linkedin.com/in/stephendeweyFrom: Herman and Gail Schiller <hschiller2@…>To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comSent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 12:37:34 PMSubject: Re: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Diesel Engine
There are spray cans of diesel starting fluid, available at auto
supply stores, that’s useful for guys who need to start a diesel in
subfreezing weather. Herm
At 12:46 AM 11/22/2008, you wrote:
Ok it sounds not to unusual.
Bob
My 2QM15 wouldn’t start too. It takes long cranking before it wakes up.
I had to start the engine after freezing night in remote location
without access to shore power recently. After several unsuccessful
attempts I boiled kettle of water and spill it all over the engine,
making sure that fuel lines are worm. Also I sprayed a little of WD-40
into air intake. It helped…
\
Posted by lolaltd (lolaltd@…>)
-Well, I have a new problem, if you can give advice on.
My fuel is dirty and contaminated.
Weds, I have a man who will clean my fuel, by running through filters.
The engine starts, then turns off.
Fellow sailor at Marina noted its very dirty, even when we changed the
filter.
I have a full tank.
Any one else have their fuel cleaned?
Thank you
Lola F 30 1978
Posted by Stephen Dewey (stephendewey@…>)
Sounds like you got air in the fuel line or some residual crud stuck in your filter(s) Stephen Deweyhttp://www.linkedin.com/in/stephendeweyFrom: lolaltd <lolaltd@…>To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comSent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:20:14 PMSubject:
[FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Diesel Engine
-Well, I have a new problem, if you can give advice on.
My fuel is dirty and contaminated.
Weds, I have a man who will clean my fuel, by running through filters.
The engine starts, then turns off.
Fellow sailor at Marina noted its very dirty, even when we changed the
filter.
I have a full tank.
Any one else have their fuel cleaned?
Thank you
Lola F 30 1978
\
Posted by lolaltd (lolaltd@…>)
–Yes, and i was taught how to bleed the engine…and that is when we
found the crud.
Wondering if others have had the flush out and cleaning of the fuel
with good results?
Lola F30 1987
Posted by amarsib@… (amarsib@…)
I have used a fuel “polishing” filter system made by algae-x, it worked well once I was able to get to the lowest level of the tank- that is where all the water and crud was. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&TFrom: “lolaltd” <lolaltd@…>Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 13:23:52 -0000To: <FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Diesel Engine --Yes, and i was taught how to bleed the engine…and that is when we found the crud. Wondering if others have had the flush out and cleaning of the fuel with good results? Lola F30 1987
Posted by DAVID HEAD (davidknhead@…>)
Last year my boat suffered a near terminal dose of bad fuel. Tried all the so called remedies but in the end the only solution was to fully drain the fuel into approx 25 litres containers and allow the fuel to settle. The sediment eventually does drop to the bottom. The fuel tank was only capable of being cleaned by cutting a lid into the top and very carefully removing the considerable amount of algae that had accumulated. Thereafter the clear fuel was decanted into the fuel tank but leaving approx 2 - 4 litres in the container that was then again allowed to settle. I only lost about 10 litres out of 225 litres. New in line filters were fitted as well in time the engine fule filter. No problems after this seasons use. Beware claims for fuel polishing as the problem will almost
certainly be residual crud in the bottom of the tank that no fuel polishing will ever cure.
David H
amarsib@…" <amarsib@…>To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comSent: Sunday, 23 November, 2008 2:14:03 PMSubject: Re: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Diesel Engine
I have used a fuel “polishing” filter system made by algae-x, it worked well once I was able to get to the lowest level of the tank- that is where all the water and crud was. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: “lolaltd” <lolaltd@yahoo. com>Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 13:23:52 -0000To: <FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com>Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Re: Diesel Engine
–Yes, and i was taught how to bleed the engine…and that is when wefound the crud.Wondering if others have had the flush out and cleaning of the fuelwith good results?Lola F30 1987