F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Archives
1

Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using or fed into
other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and the little paddle
wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its disconnected and I do not know where
the past owner put display for the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to
pull them out of the hull even thought the connections are still clean looking
and bright red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller hole so
therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and feed it into
something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and they were clueless! I
am assuming they send electrical current that is then converted to a scaled
output and is useable to a display. The question then I guess is there a
standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”

2

Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)


Bob:

Almost
all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by Airmar. However, they are
not all alike; there are a variety of frequencies used. If you know the
frequency of the depth transducer, you could probably find a matching display
head. I do not know, but I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization
in paddlewheels.

Al
Lorman
F30
Ab Initio



From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

\




Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers
be using or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its disconnected and
I do not know where the past owner put display for the knots, if its still
around. I am afraid to pull them out of the hull even thought the connections
are still clean looking and bright red and from the bottom they also still look
good. If I pull them I will find the any replacement will need either a bigger
or smaller hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output
and feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and they
were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that is then
converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The question then I
guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”


\

3

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a
much bigger hole.



— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”

4

Posted by Bob Weeks (rweeks6508@…>)


Thanks I will definitely keep this one in
my on-board binder under …tricks and trade secrets….Fortunately its
on the hard now and I can do this anytime before next May. Sorry I did not
make it clear that I had this option but your detailed workaround will not go
to waste. My problem is “if its not broke or leaking leave it alone”!
As soon as I try to take it apart I going to find some wrong and come April I
am still working on plugging the hole!….no I am an optimist …. only
I lean to the negative side most of the time. It like my flange on my prop
shaft…I want to replace the packing gland with a PSS. So first step is
to uncouple the flange from the flex coupling , four bolts into a rubber gizmo….only
took ¼ of a small pint of liquid wrench and 4 fours of fighting with the bolts….next
the four nuts holding the flex coupling to the transmission flange…1/4
more liquid wrench and another 3 hours. So now you would think I am only a
short way from home now! All day Saturday this past weekend with a flange
puller, plumber torch and skinless knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter!
When down to the marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks)
and wished them luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob

\





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re:
F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter




Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is
above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a

much bigger hole.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob

Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”


\

5

Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)


Bob:

No
matter how many times I measured the interior shaft on my F30, there was never
enough room to install a PSS. What is your secret?

Al



From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:37 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

\





Thanks I
will definitely keep this one in my on-board binder under …tricks and
trade secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I can do this anytime
before next May. Sorry I did not make it clear that I had this option but
your detailed workaround will not go to waste. My problem is “if
its not broke or leaking leave it alone”! As soon as I try to take
it apart I going to find some wrong and come April I am still working on
plugging the hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I lean to the
negative side most of the time. It like my flange on my prop shaft…I
want to replace the packing gland with a PSS. So first step is to
uncouple the flange from the flex coupling , four bolts into a rubber
gizmo….only took ¼ of a small pint of liquid wrench and 4 fours of
fighting with the bolts….next the four nuts holding the flex coupling to
the transmission flange…1/4 more liquid wrench and another 3 hours.
So now you would think I am only a short way from home now! All day
Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller, plumber torch and skinless
knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter! When down to the
marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks) and wished them
luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob


\





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter




Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is
above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a

much bigger hole.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob

Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”







\

6

Posted by Bob Weeks (rweeks6508@…>)


Oh please don’t not tell there is a space
problem………I was told it would fit…and I bought it off
ebay……oh just my luck!





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Lorman
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
10:56 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter





Bob:

No matter how many times I measured the interior shaft on my
F30, there was never enough room to install a PSS. What is your secret?

Al



From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
7:37 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

\





Thanks I will definitely keep this one in my on-board binder under
…tricks and trade secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I
can do this anytime before next May. Sorry I did not make it clear that I
had this option but your detailed workaround will not go to waste. My
problem is “if its not broke or leaking leave it alone”! As
soon as I try to take it apart I going to find some wrong and come April I am
still working on plugging the hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I
lean to the negative side most of the time. It like my flange on my prop
shaft…I want to replace the packing gland with a PSS. So first step
is to uncouple the flange from the flex coupling , four bolts into a rubber
gizmo….only took ¼ of a small pint of liquid wrench and 4 fours of
fighting with the bolts….next the four nuts holding the flex coupling to
the transmission flange…1/4 more liquid wrench and another 3 hours.
So now you would think I am only a short way from home now! All day
Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller, plumber torch and skinless
knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter! When down to the
marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks) and wished them
luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob




\





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter




Here’s
how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is
above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a

much bigger hole.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob

Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”










\

7

Posted by Bob Weeks (rweeks6508@…>)


According to the instructions you only
need ¾ “ compression space and I definitely have that even with the flex
coupling in place.

Bob





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Lorman
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
10:56 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter





Bob:

No matter how many times I measured the interior shaft on my
F30, there was never enough room to install a PSS. What is your secret?

Al



From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
7:37 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

\





Thanks I will definitely keep this one in my on-board binder under
…tricks and trade secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I
can do this anytime before next May. Sorry I did not make it clear that I
had this option but your detailed workaround will not go to waste. My
problem is “if its not broke or leaking leave it alone”! As
soon as I try to take it apart I going to find some wrong and come April I am
still working on plugging the hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I
lean to the negative side most of the time. It like my flange on my prop
shaft…I want to replace the packing gland with a PSS. So first step
is to uncouple the flange from the flex coupling , four bolts into a rubber
gizmo….only took ¼ of a small pint of liquid wrench and 4 fours of
fighting with the bolts….next the four nuts holding the flex coupling to
the transmission flange…1/4 more liquid wrench and another 3 hours.
So now you would think I am only a short way from home now! All day
Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller, plumber torch and skinless
knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter! When down to the
marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks) and wished them
luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob




\





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008
6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter




Here’s
how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is
above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a

much bigger hole.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob

Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”










\

8

Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)


Bob:

I
truly hope I’m wrong, but I recall that I needed about 1 inch more length
overall for the entire unit than I had on my F30. Others have said the same.
But Fargo reported on the other list that he was able to install a PSS in his
F30, so it may just prove that no two are alike.

Al



From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:31 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

\





According
to the instructions you only need ¾ “ compression space and I definitely
have that even with the flex coupling in place.

Bob





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Lorman
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:56 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter





Bob:

No matter how many times I measured the interior shaft on
my F30, there was never enough room to install a PSS. What is your secret?

Al



From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:37 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

\





Thanks I will definitely keep this one in
my on-board binder under …tricks and trade secrets….Fortunately its
on the hard now and I can do this anytime before next May. Sorry I did
not make it clear that I had this option but your detailed workaround will not
go to waste. My problem is “if its not broke or leaking leave it
alone”! As soon as I try to take it apart I going to find some wrong
and come April I am still working on plugging the hole!….no I am an
optimist …. only I lean to the negative side most of the time. It
like my flange on my prop shaft…I want to replace the packing gland with
a PSS. So first step is to uncouple the flange from the flex coupling , four
bolts into a rubber gizmo….only took ¼ of a small pint of liquid wrench
and 4 fours of fighting with the bolts….next the four nuts holding the
flex coupling to the transmission flange…1/4 more liquid wrench and
another 3 hours. So now you would think I am only a short way from home
now! All day Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller, plumber
torch and skinless knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter!
When down to the marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks)
and wished them luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob




\





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter




Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is
above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a

much bigger hole.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob

Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”















\

9

Posted by Fargo Rousseau (fargo_r@…>)
Bob: Fargo did not install a PSS…Thought about it, but rescued his old grease filled Syntron instead, and installed a simple flow thru cooling system. Grease fittings were a mistake that worked for a long while for some, but lead to premature failure. The Syntron was designed to run for 10,000 hr…or more…asking only to be aligned and cooled…and not much else. It definitely was not designed for grease…which only blocks the cool ocean water from entering and cooling the seal area. The two 1/8" pipe threaded holes in the seal housing are perfect ports for cooling. Leave one plugged and attach the other with a small, strong hose to the intake side of the water strainer (which is close at hand). Water will flow into the seal area along the prop shaft, around the seal internal parts, and through this new hose to the strainer which has a slight but usable “suction” to pull things along. FargoAl Lorman
<ajl@…> wrote: Bob: I truly hope I’m wrong, but I recall that I needed about 1 inch more length overall for the entire unit than I had on my F30. Others have said the same. But Fargo reported on the other list that he was able to install a PSS in his F30, so it may just prove that no
two are alike. Al From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Weeks Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:31 AM To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter According to the instructions you only need ¾ “ compression space and I definitely have that even with the flex coupling in place. Bob From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Lorman Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:56 PM To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com Subject:
RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter Bob: No matter how many times I measured the interior shaft on my F30, there was never enough room to install a PSS. What is your secret? Al From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Weeks Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:37 PM To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter Thanks I will definitely keep this one in my on-board binder under …tricks and trade secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I can do this anytime before next May. Sorry I did not make it clear that I had this option but your detailed workaround will not go to waste. My problem is “if its not broke or leaking leave it alone”! As soon
as I try to take it apart I going to find some wrong and come April I am still working on plugging the hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I lean to the negative side most of the time. It like my flange on my prop shaft…I want to replace the packing gland with a PSS. So first step is to uncouple the flange from the flex coupling , four bolts into a rubber gizmo….only took ¼ of a small pint of liquid wrench and 4 fours of fighting with the bolts….next the four nuts holding the flex coupling to the transmission flange…1/4 more liquid wrench and another 3 hours. So now you would think I am only a short way from home now! All day Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller, plumber torch and skinless knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter! When down to the marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks) and wished them luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent! Bob From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:09 PM To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat 1) Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru- hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a car tire tube is too big) 2) Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with the valve and throw it away. 3) Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before clamping…you’re creating a seal here. 4) Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead
grab rail or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end shut” 5) Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine, this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how much before putting on the tube) 6) Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the open end. The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this will enter the boat. Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.
When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with SailKote before reinstalling it. This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the whole length of it down the wire). You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements and put it back
in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply placing your hand over it. You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t spill a cup’s worth. The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is above the waterline, but it won’t. Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the waterline at any potential angle of
heel, it won’t flood. If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a much bigger hole. — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Al Lorman” <ajl@…> wrote: > > Bob: > > > > Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer, you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels. > > > > Al Lorman > > F30 Ab Initio > > > > From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob > Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM > To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter > > > > Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller hole
so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The question then I guess is there a standard? > > Bob > “Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!” >

10

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

Bob…

Uh…I’m NOT making fun of you here, but let me get this straight…

You’re afraid to remove the depthmeter & knotmeter transducers while
the boat is OUT of the water? Why? This is not a destructive process.

If the transducers are in such (apparent) bad shape (crumbling?) that
you are afraid to remove them for fear of not getting them back in,
then they NEED to be removed (and replaced) while the boat IS out of
the water (lest they disintegrate and stop sealing the holes they are
in).

Your worst case scenario is that you’ll need new transducers and
through hulls to go along with your new display. These generally are
available “all at once”. The only thing you need to do is match the
through-hull size to the hole that’s there already.

Replacing a through-hull while out of the water is not something that
should cause you a lot of heartburn. (It’s a little harder when
you’re afloat, but still do-able…requiring things like toilet
plungers (on the outside of the hull) and sealants which work when
applied to a wet surface).

You SHOULD (for reasons listed earlier) be comfortable with the
removal of the knotmeter transducer when the boat ISN’T out of the
water. If you do it now, then you can replace the O-rings on the
transducer and know that you won’t have problems with this once the
boat is back afloat. It probably wouldn’t hurt to replace the O-rings
on the depth transducer while you’re at it, although, once installed,
these are typically never removed (unless you pull it out while out
of the water to avoid having to mask it while applying bottom paint).

Best case scenario, you have your knotmeter & depthsounder
transducers out, and you are able to narrow your replacement-of-
display choices down to ones that will allow you to use the existing
through hull (and possibly the existing transducers). This will be a
whole lot easier to accomplish if you know what size they are and
where/how the ears (and slots on the throug hull) are configured.

As far as “not broke or leaking”…a missing depthsounder display
sounds pretty “broke” to me. I assume that you’ll want to take care
of this niggling detail before you start locating rocks and shoals by
ear.

If it SEEMS that what’s missing is “original to the boat” (mounted in
holes drilled at the factory, no “marks” on the backside of the
bulkhead indicating that more than the one (missing) display has ever
occupied that hole, etc), then maybe you can “poll” other owners of
sisterships of your boat and narrow down the search to one or two
manufacturers.





— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Bob Weeks”
<rweeks6508@…> wrote:

Thanks I will definitely keep this one in my on-board binder under …
tricks
and trade secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I can do
this anytime
before next May. Sorry I did not make it clear that I had this
option but
your detailed workaround will not go to waste. My problem is “if
its not
broke or leaking leave it alone”! As soon as I try to take it
apart I going
to find some wrong and come April I am still working on plugging the
hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I lean to the negative side most
of the
time. It like my flange on my prop shaft…I want to replace the
packing
gland with a PSS. So first step is to uncouple the flange from the
flex
coupling , four bolts into a rubber gizmo….only took ¼ of a small
pint of
liquid wrench and 4 fours of fighting with the bolts….next the four
nuts
holding the flex coupling to the transmission flange…1/4 more
liquid wrench
and another 3 hours. So now you would think I am only a short way
from home
now! All day Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller,
plumber torch
and skinless knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter!
When down
to the marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks)
and
wished them luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger
    (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece
    with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process,
    turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out
    how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out
    the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to
BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse
the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off
and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean
one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get
a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the
open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer
thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the
measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related
to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If
you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive
that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with
a
much bigger hole.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, “Al Lorman” <ajl@>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth
transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in
paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well
and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and
bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output
and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display.
The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”

11

Posted by Bob Weeks (rweeks6508@…>)


No I am not afraid of taking them out
while on the hard unless someone around the corner is building an ark! What I
am afraid of is not finding a proper replacement that fits without
alterations. With all this old stuff fear is, with my luck, nothing will fit
straight away. I am begin to get “that” feeling about the PSS I just
bought……

Bob





From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008
8:15 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re:
F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter




Bob…

Uh…I’m NOT making fun of you here, but let me get this straight…

You’re afraid to remove the depthmeter & knotmeter transducers while
the boat is OUT of the water? Why? This is not a destructive process.

If the transducers are in such (apparent) bad shape (crumbling?) that
you are afraid to remove them for fear of not getting them back in,
then they NEED to be removed (and replaced) while the boat IS out of
the water (lest they disintegrate and stop sealing the holes they are
in).

Your worst case scenario is that you’ll need new transducers and
through hulls to go along with your new display. These generally are
available “all at once”. The only thing you need to do is match the
through-hull size to the hole that’s there already.

Replacing a through-hull while out of the water is not something that
should cause you a lot of heartburn. (It’s a little harder when
you’re afloat, but still do-able…requiring things like toilet
plungers (on the outside of the hull) and sealants which work when
applied to a wet surface).

You SHOULD (for reasons listed earlier) be comfortable with the
removal of the knotmeter transducer when the boat ISN’T out of the
water. If you do it now, then you can replace the O-rings on the
transducer and know that you won’t have problems with this once the
boat is back afloat. It probably wouldn’t hurt to replace the O-rings
on the depth transducer while you’re at it, although, once installed,
these are typically never removed (unless you pull it out while out
of the water to avoid having to mask it while applying bottom paint).

Best case scenario, you have your knotmeter & depthsounder
transducers out, and you are able to narrow your replacement-of-
display choices down to ones that will allow you to use the existing
through hull (and possibly the existing transducers). This will be a
whole lot easier to accomplish if you know what size they are and
where/how the ears (and slots on the throug hull) are configured.

As far as “not broke or leaking”…a missing depthsounder display
sounds pretty “broke” to me. I assume that you’ll want to take care
of this niggling detail before you start locating rocks and shoals by
ear.

If it SEEMS that what’s missing is “original to the boat” (mounted in

holes drilled at the factory, no “marks” on the backside of the
bulkhead indicating that more than the one (missing) display has ever
occupied that hole, etc), then maybe you can “poll” other owners of
sisterships of your boat and narrow down the search to one or two
manufacturers.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Bob Weeks”
<rweeks6508@…> wrote:

Thanks I will definitely keep this one in my on-board binder under …
tricks
and trade secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I can do
this anytime
before next May. Sorry I did not make it clear that I had this
option but
your detailed workaround will not go to waste. My problem is “if
its not
broke or leaking leave it alone”! As soon as I try to take it
apart I going
to find some wrong and come April I am still working on plugging the
hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I lean to the negative side
most
of the
time. It like my flange on my prop shaft…I want to replace the
packing
gland with a PSS. So first step is to uncouple the flange from the
flex
coupling , four bolts into a rubber gizmo….only took ¼ of a small
pint of
liquid wrench and 4 fours of fighting with the bolts….next the four
nuts
holding the flex coupling to the transmission flange…1/4 more
liquid wrench
and another 3 hours. So now you would think I am only a short way
from home
now! All day Saturday this past weekend with a flange puller,
plumber torch
and skinless knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a millimeter!
When down
to the marina office and filled out a work order (more boat bucks)
and
wished them luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger
    (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece
    with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly
    before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process,
    turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out
    how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out
    the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to
BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse
the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have
been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off
and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean
one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get
a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the
open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer
thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the
measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you
won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related
to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If
you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive
that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole”
is above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same
way…with
a
much bigger hole.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, “Al Lorman” <ajl@>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth
transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in
paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ <mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and
Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well
and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and
bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output
and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display.
The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”


\

12

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

I have a “Syntron” dripless shaft seal on the
shaft of my '87 Mull 28-footer. It is OEM from
the factory, and still seems OK. Perhaps the
dimensions of this seal is different from PSS;
might be worth investigation. HermAt 11:12 AM 1/16/2008, you wrote:

Bob:

I truly hope I’m wrong, but I recall that I
needed about 1 inch more length overall for the
entire unit than I had on my F30. Others have
said the same. But Fargo reported on the other
list that he was able to install a PSS in his
F30, so it may just prove that no two are alike.

Al

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:31 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

According to the instructions you only need ¾ “
compression space and I definitely have that
even with the flex coupling in place.

Bob

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Lorman
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:56 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Bob:

No matter how many times I measured the interior
shaft on my F30, there was never enough room to
install a PSS. What is your secret?

Al

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Weeks
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:37 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Thanks I will definitely keep this one in my
on-board binder under …tricks and trade
secrets….Fortunately its on the hard now and I
can do this anytime before next May. Sorry I
did not make it clear that I had this option but
your detailed workaround will not go to
waste. My problem is “if its not broke or
leaking leave it alone”! As soon as I try to
take it apart I going to find some wrong and
come April I am still working on plugging the
hole!….no I am an optimist …. only I lean to the
negative side most of the time. It like my
flange on my prop shaft…I want to replace the
packing gland with a PSS. So first step is to
uncouple the flange from the flex coupling ,
four bolts into a rubber gizmo….only took ¼ of a
small pint of liquid wrench and 4 fours of
fighting with the bolts….next the four nuts
holding the flex coupling to the transmission
flange…1/4 more liquid wrench and another 3
hours. So now you would think I am only a short
way from home now! All day Saturday this past
weekend with a flange puller, plumber torch and
skinless knuckles and the thing has NOT moved a
millimeter! When down to the marina office and
filled out a work order (more boat bucks) and
wished them luck! Sorry at my age I go out on tangent!

Bob

From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:09 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Here’s how to get it out without sinking the boat

  1. Go buy a motorcycle inner tube…about the size of a moped ought
    to do it. It has to be big enough to fit over the transducer thru-
    hull and the “ears” on the transducer plug…but not a LOT bigger (a
    car tire tube is too big)

  2. Cut it across the tube (at the valve) so that you have one
    long “strand” with the valve at one end. Then cut off the piece with
    the valve and throw it away.

  3. Slip one end of the tube over the thru-hull (with the transducer
    still in place and whatever’s left of the wire inside the tube) and
    hose clamp it to the thru-hull with two hose clamps below the level
    of the “ears” on the transducer. Fold over any excess neatly before
    clamping…you’re creating a seal here.

  4. Elevate the other end of the tube ABOVE the waterline of the
    boat…attach it with a piece of line to a handy overhead grab rail
    or something, but poke a hole for the line and don’t “tie the end
    shut”

  5. Without pulling the tube off of the thru hull in the process, turn
    the transducer so that it disengages from the thru hull (on mine,
    this is about 1/16th of a turn counterclockwise…but figure out how
    much before putting on the tube)

  6. Work the transducer up the inner tube until you can get it out the
    open end.

The only water which will flow through the thru-hull is whatever it
takes to fill the tube up to the level of the waterline. As long as
the other end of the tube stays above the waterline, NONE of this
will enter the boat.

Measure your transducer (including the distance from the ears to BOTH
ends of the transducer and the size of the ears) and then reverse the
process to put it back in. Don’t spend a week doing this, and don’t
go off and leave the boat with the transducer OUT.

When you order a new one, also get the “plug” that should have been
lying around in the boat somewhere in the first place. It’s best to
pull the paddlewheel transducer and plug the hole when you go off and
leave the boat. Barnacles and slime mess up its action. (To clean one
off, soak it a while in vinegar, then scrub it.) I spray mine with
SailKote before reinstalling it.

This wouldn’t work if the wire coming out of the transducer hadn’t
already been cut (unless you disconnected the other end and fed the
whole length of it down the wire).

You CAN always avoid this rigamarole with the innertube if you get a
friend (who isn’t easily distracted) and just have him slap the open
end of a rubber dishwashing glove over the end of the transducer thru
hull and hold it in place by hand after you pull the transducer
out…he’ll only be there long enough for you to get the measurements
and put it back in…the slots in the side of the thru-hull (which
the ears engage)prevent you from being able to do this by simply
placing your hand over it.

You won’t get much water in the bilge doing this…if you use the
inner tube, you can “milk” it back down if you want and you won’t
spill a cup’s worth.

The water flow through an opening in the hull is directly related to
the size of the hole and the distance BELOW the waterline. If you’ve
ever just pulled out a transducer and slapped in a plug, it SEEMS
like it’s flowing at a GREAT rate, and it’s not really intuitive that
it won’t flow at all if the “other end” of the “hole” is above the
waterline, but it won’t.

Steve Dashew builds his (aluminum) hulls with a minimum number of
through hulls…dumping all the discharges into a 4" to 6" pipe
that’s open at the top. As long as the top of the pipe is above the
waterline at any potential angle of heel, it won’t flood.

If you think about it, an “outboard well” works the same way…with a
much bigger hole.

— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
“Al Lorman” <ajl@…>
wrote:

Bob:

Almost all the depth transducers sold in the US are made by
Airmar. However, they are not all alike; there are a variety of
frequencies used. If you know the frequency of the depth transducer,
you could probably find a matching display head. I do not know, but
I seriously doubt, that there is any standardization in paddlewheels.

Al Lorman

F30 Ab Initio

From:

mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob

Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 4:17 PM
To:

mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] F-30 Original Depthmeter and Knotmeter

Looking for experts on this subject. Can the transducers be using
or fed into other mfg products? The depthmeter works rather well and
the little paddle wheel on the knotmeter turns freely but its
disconnected and I do not know where the past owner put display for
the knots, if its still around. I am afraid to pull them out of the
hull even thought the connections are still clean looking and bright
red and from the bottom they also still look good. If I pull them I
will find the any replacement will need either a bigger or smaller
hole so therefore I would like to just take the electrical output and
feed it into something else. Any suggestions? Oh I call the mfg and
they were clueless! I am assuming they send electrical current that
is then converted to a scaled output and is useable to a display. The
question then I guess is there a standard?

Bob
“Oh buying a New Old Boat is so much fun!”