After a few years of fighting with 3-strand nylon rode, I switched to a 5/8" 8-plait rode and it’s been much better. The problem with the 3-strand was that it would form hockles and bind up in the gypsy, especially when it got to the first chain link. 8-plait does not hockle or kink, and has a smaller, more square profile, which tends to work better with gypsies. As an added bonus, 8-plait is much less stiff, so it flakes itself nicely and takes up a lot less space in the chain locker. It’s well worth the additional $0.20/ft versus 3-strand.
There is a small strength difference between 5/8" 3-strand and 5/8" 8-plait, but I don’t think it really makes a difference. I’d consider a tensile strength of 11,000 pounds more than enough! Here’s hoping I never need anything close to that.
Thank you guys for all the info. I had planned to go all chain, then I looked at the price of chain…gulp!
So now I will revert to chain and rope. I already have about 100 feet of 5/16 chain in good condition - 75 foot aboard the boat and 25 in the garage. So I will be looking to lengthen the rode with rope and I really like the Plait idea, had not thought of that.
One, I hope, final question. Do you know if there a way to join sections of chain which will not jam the windlass? Currently I have one “quick link” connector in the chain and, if I extend it to 100 ft, I will have two. What is the best way to do this when one has a windlass installed?
If you install an electric windlass buy a two channel remote control as used in truck winches it wires into the control unit where you would wire a foot switch ,you will need to pick up a neutral .mine works great from anywhere in the boat and far cheaper than the lewmar one
I had a similar issue with my setup. My anchor was secured with a bail pin too, and after some time it got slightly bent and jammed, which made it really hard to remove when I needed it. I started using a short length of line to lash the anchor securely instead of relying on the pin. It holds well and can be released quickly if needed. For anyone using similar marine equipment, it’s a good idea to test how easily your setup releases under tension because you don’t want to find out it’s stuck when you actually need to drop anchor fast.
I just went through a similar headache when I swapped out my plow with a Fortress (170 feet of 5/16 chain). I figured out a pretty good workaround.
First, leave your anchor on your rode. It’s a PITA to take the off and reattach it. Since your rode is likely secured at the bitter end by an overhand stop knot, just untie that. Thread the rode OVER your safety rail and back through your anchor bracket into your anchor well.
Next time you are ready to anchor, pull out the anchor and drop it over the side, run out all your chain and rode, and then bring it back through the anchor bracket to give you your desired scope.
Your anchor system is now back in business.
You can reverse the process when you stow your anchor for passages or want to clean/rinse off the chain and rode. Drop the anchor in 10-20 feet of water, run everything out and pull it back in over the safety rail. Stow in in your chain locker with the rode/chain on the bottom and the anchor on top. You’ll have a single length of rope running out of your chain well, through the anchor bracket and back into your chain well.
When you need the anchor again, heave it overboard manually in the 10-20 feet of water and take up the slack once. You’re back in business in a snap.
For folks like me with all chain, just connect 3-4 meters of stout nylon rode to the bitter end of your chain so you aren’t running chain over your safety rain and deck.
I’m luck because my windlass had a dual wheel, so I can haul on rope or chain as needed. It will be very handy if I ever have to winch off a grounding!