F36 fixed ports - again

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1

Posted by WACtest (wacormack@…>)

Help! No answer from the first posting of this querry so I’m trying
again. Can anyone shed some light on this? Please!

The fixed portlight over the galley on my 1986 F36 is leaking and
I’m trying to remove it to rebed it. So far I have gotten the
aluminum trim off the inside which revealed large amounts of
silicone-like caulk surrounding the U shaped channel.

It looks like the following:
Inside trim - two flat pieces which fit around the frame which holds
the glass. They are held to the outer trim with machine screws.
Glass holder (for lack of a better name) - two pieces which hold the
glass in a U shaped channel. There appear to be tiny pop rivets
holding the rubber gasket in place in the U channel.
Outer trim - one piece aluminum.
My questions are:
How was the outer trim attached to the cabin side? 5200?
How is the glass holder attached to the outer trim?
How do I get the glass out so I can caulk around it or is there
something else I should be doing to stop the leak?
Bill
Sailing F36 Hard Earned out of New Bedford Yacht Club, Padanaram, MA

2

Posted by mike cunningham (seychellois_lib@…>)

I have a 30 and from the sound of it the port
installation is a bit different, however I did have a
leak a while bck n I think my experience may be
relevant.

There are two wys for a leak to happen

  1. There is a leak between the frame and the hull
  2. Leakag betwen the glass and the frame

Before you attack you should try to determine which
type of leak you have.

Mine was frame to hull along the top lip of the frame
where a small secton of the sealing compound had
failed. I used one of those small disposable plastic
box cutters,the kind that has the break off blades.
Extended the blade about an inch and a half and was
able to slide the blade between the frame lip and hull
to thoroughy clean the old sealant out. Then bot a
fabric glue syringe (these things are worth their
weight in gold, I got a bunch on the boat) filled it
with a few ccs of sealant and injected sealant into
the narrow gap I had created between frame and hull.
Th leak was stopped and I’ve been good for several
years now.

I have also removed the window from the frame for no
reason other than to clean up the ratty plumbers
gasget material that was originally used by Freedom to
seal the glass to the frame. This is a big job and IMO
sholdbe avoided at all costs unless you have
absoultely confirmed this is the source of the leak.

Finding the source can be a challenge. I did it by
creating a cofferdam above and around the port with
rags and setting up a slowly running hose to provide a
skein of water on the exterior. Remove the interior
trim frame and begin the search. Freedom went wild
with the black silcone round the glass (it not only
covers the glass edge, it also obscures the interior
frame to hull interface) so I found that I neeed to
cut some of the excess away to be able to see the
frame to hull interface. Sure enough, after a littie
detective work I was able to trace the leak to a one
inch area between hull and frame which I proceeded to
repair as above.

Link to the handy syringe below - you cn find them
cheaper if you google around

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hca/hcahcar3785.htm


— WACtest <wacormack@…> wrote:

Help! No answer from the first posting of this
querry so I’m trying
again. Can anyone shed some light on this? Please!

The fixed portlight over the galley on my 1986 F36
is leaking and
I’m trying to remove it to rebed it. So far I have
gotten the
aluminum trim off the inside which revealed large
amounts of
silicone-like caulk surrounding the U shaped
channel.

It looks like the following:
Inside trim - two flat pieces which fit around the
frame which holds
the glass. They are held to the outer trim with
machine screws.
Glass holder (for lack of a better name) - two
pieces which hold the
glass in a U shaped channel. There appear to be
tiny pop rivets
holding the rubber gasket in place in the U channel.

Outer trim - one piece aluminum.
My questions are:
How was the outer trim attached to the cabin side?
5200?
How is the glass holder attached to the outer trim?
How do I get the glass out so I can caulk around it
or is there
something else I should be doing to stop the leak?
Bill
Sailing F36 Hard Earned out of New Bedford Yacht
Club, Padanaram, MA


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3

Posted by Lorman, Alvin J. (ajlorman@…>)

I can’t claim that I’m an expert since I still have some leaks, but I have to second Mike’s suggestion to check the fit of the outside frame to the coach top side. When I started looking at that, I found that the bottom of one of the aluminum fixed ports was a good 1/8" away from the side of the coach top. Don’t know whether the frame was bent or the coach top buckled, but there was plenty of room for water to be wicked in. I taped the coach top and injected caulking up into the gap and that leak, at least, seems to have stopped.

Al Lorman
F30 Ab Initio

-----Original Message-----From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mike cunninghamSent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 8:44 AMTo: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] F36 fixed ports - againI have a 30 and from the sound of it the portinstallation is a bit different, however I did have aleak a while bck n I think my experience may berelevant.There are two wys for a leak to happen1. There is a leak between the frame and the hull2. Leakag betwen the glass and the frameBefore you attack you should try to determine whichtype of leak you have. Mine was frame to hull along the top lip of the framewhere a small secton of the sealing compound hadfailed. I used one of those small disposable plasticbox cutters,the kind that has the break off blades.Extended the blade about an inch and a half and wasable to slide the blade between the frame lip and hullto thoroughy clean the old sealant out. Then bot afabric glue syringe (these things are worth theirweight in gold, I got a bunch on the boat) filled itwith a few ccs of sealant and injected sealant intothe narrow gap I had created between frame and hull.Th leak was stopped and I’ve been good for severalyears now.I have also removed the window from the frame for noreason other than to clean up the ratty plumbersgasget material that was originally used by Freedom toseal the glass to the frame. This is a big job and IMOsholdbe avoided at all costs unless you haveabsoultely confirmed this is the source of the leak.Finding the source can be a challenge. I did it bycreating a cofferdam above and around the port withrags and setting up a slowly running hose to provide askein of water on the exterior. Remove the interiortrim frame and begin the search. Freedom went wildwith the black silcone round the glass (it not onlycovers the glass edge, it also obscures the interiorframe to hull interface) so I found that I neeed tocut some of the excess away to be able to see theframe to hull interface. Sure enough, after a littiedetective work I was able to trace the leak to a oneinch area between hull and frame which I proceeded torepair as above.Link to the handy syringe below - you cn find themcheaper if you google aroundhttp://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hca/hcahcar3785.htm — WACtest <wacormack@…> wrote:> Help! No answer from the first posting of this> querry so I’m trying > again. Can anyone shed some light on this? Please!> > The fixed portlight over the galley on my 1986 F36> is leaking and > I’m trying to remove it to rebed it. So far I have> gotten the > aluminum trim off the inside which revealed large> amounts of > silicone-like caulk surrounding the U shaped> channel.> > It looks like the following:> Inside trim - two flat pieces which fit around the> frame which holds > the glass. They are held to the outer trim with> machine screws. > Glass holder (for lack of a better name) - two> pieces which hold the > glass in a U shaped channel. There appear to be> tiny pop rivets > holding the rubber gasket in place in the U channel.> > Outer trim - one piece aluminum.> My questions are:> How was the outer trim attached to the cabin side?> 5200? > How is the glass holder attached to the outer trim? > How do I get the glass out so I can caulk around it> or is there > something else I should be doing to stop the leak?> Bill> Sailing F36 Hard Earned out of New Bedford Yacht> Club, Padanaram, MA> > > > > > __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE. Any advice expressed above as to tax matters was neither written nor intended by the sender or Mayer, Brown, Rowe Maw LLP to be used and cannot be used by any taxpayer for the purpose of avoiding tax penalties that may be imposed under U.S. tax law. If any person uses or refers to any such tax advice in promoting, marketing or recommending a partnership or other entity, investment plan or arrangement to any taxpayer, then (i) the advice was written to support the promotion or marketing (by a person other than Mayer, Brown, Rowe Maw LLP) of that transaction or matter, and (ii) such taxpayer should seek advice based on the taxpayers particular circumstances from an independent tax advisorThis email and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

4

Posted by Fargo Rousseau (fargo_r@…>)
Good idea to track the leak (leaks) down if you can and fix them where they stand if you want the shortest possible job. I could not find my leaks… so I removed the fixed ports…and am glad it did. The whole interior wood area under the port from was wet…so I was happy to dry it out. This also gave me a chance to test the seal between the plastic panel to frame which looked bad. I placed the whole port, external side up, on a level table top with newsprint under the whole port. I carefully filled the fram with water as high as I could get it. I let it side there for days. Then carefully removed some of the water and lifted the port. There were no wet stains on the paper…so I was pretty sure there were no leaks (granted that this is not a high pressure test, but better than nothing). I was already equiped to replace all of the Beckson opening ports and had their instructions and all the
materials at hand. Key points are: 1. Clean the area where the port seals against the external cabin side VERY THOROUGHLY. Us no soap (because silcone will not seal to a soapy residue). Us a mildly abrasive pad and alchohol or gelcoat degreaser…and elbow grease…to get every last bit of old caulking off. Do the same for the aluminum frame. 2. Beckson recommends that you do a test fitting with a few screws to locate the port in its proper place, and then gently “paint” a soapy solution on the external fiberglass cabin side around the outside perimeter of the the aluminum frame. This will act as a release agent for the caulking that oozes out when you reinstall the port and pull the frame down. But… you MUST USE A VERY DRY BRUSH…or soap will run down into the sealing surface. This step is not completely necessary…but it does make the cleanup process easier. 3. Apply Dow silcone sealant (will give the
exact product number tomorrow) to aluminum frame and reinstall the frame. This is a two person job. Install all of the screws…but don’t pull them down tight. Leave a turn or so until the next day. This will allow the caulking to harden up a bit before it is mashed flat…effectively giving you a thicker “gasket” area between the frame and the boat. Don’t try to clean up the caulking that oozes out. 4. In a day or two, come back and tighten the screws, super tight is not necessary. If the cauking seems very firm, then you can cleany cut it away with a new sharp razor blade. GENLTLY insert the blade perpendicular to the cabin side and just touching the aluminum frame, and trace the blade round the frame. Use the lightest of finger pressure so that you do not scratch the gelcoat. The silicone is very easy to cut. Remove excess caulking…patiently…never digging down into the caulk between the
frame and the cabin side. We reinstalled all ports using this method on our F30…and not a leak in the last 6 months. I only wish that I had replace the plastic glazing on the fixed ports at that time…because there are definitly showing their age. Fargo F30#12 NARISA “Lorman, Alvin J.” <ajlorman@…> wrote:Message I can’t claim that I’m an expert since I still have some leaks, but I have to second Mike’s suggestion to check the fit of the outside frame to the coach top side. When I started looking at that, I found that the bottom of
one of the aluminum fixed ports was a good 1/8" away from the side of the coach top. Don’t know whether the frame was bent or the coach top buckled, but there was plenty of room for water to be wicked in. I taped the coach top and injected caulking up into the gap and that leak, at least, seems to have stopped. Al Lorman F30 Ab Initio -----Original Message-----From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mike cunninghamSent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 8:44 AMTo: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] F36 fixed ports - againI have a 30 and from the sound of it the portinstallation is a bit different, however I did have aleak a while bck n I think my experience may berelevant.There are two wys for a leak to happen1. There is a leak between the frame and the hull2. Leakag betwen the glass and the frameBefore you attack you should try to determine whichtype of leak you have. Mine was frame to hull along the top lip of the framewhere a small secton of the sealing compound hadfailed. I used one of those small disposable plasticbox cutters,the kind that has the break off blades.Extended the blade about an inch and a half and wasable to slide the blade between the frame lip and hullto
thoroughy clean the old sealant out. Then bot afabric glue syringe (these things are worth theirweight in gold, I got a bunch on the boat) filled itwith a few ccs of sealant and injected sealant intothe narrow gap I had created between frame and hull.Th leak was stopped and I’ve been good for severalyears now.I have also removed the window from the frame for noreason other than to clean up the ratty plumbersgasget material that was originally used by Freedom toseal the glass to the frame. This is a big job and IMOsholdbe avoided at all costs unless you haveabsoultely confirmed this is the source of the leak.Finding the source can be a challenge. I did it bycreating a cofferdam above and around the port withrags and setting up a slowly running hose to provide askein of water on the exterior. Remove the interiortrim frame and begin the search. Freedom went wildwith the black
silcone round the glass (it not onlycovers the glass edge, it also obscures the interiorframe to hull interface) so I found that I neeed tocut some of the excess away to be able to see theframe to hull interface. Sure enough, after a littiedetective work I was able to trace the leak to a oneinch area between hull and frame which I proceeded torepair as above.Link to the handy syringe below - you cn find themcheaper if you google aroundhttp://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hca/hcahcar3785.htm — WACtest <wacormack@…> wrote:> Help! No answer from the first posting of this> querry so I’m trying > again. Can anyone shed some light on this? Please!> > The fixed portlight over the galley on my 1986 F36> is leaking and > I’m trying to remove it to rebed
it. So far I have> gotten the > aluminum trim off the inside which revealed large> amounts of > silicone-like caulk surrounding the U shaped> channel.> > It looks like the following:> Inside trim - two flat pieces which fit around the> frame which holds > the glass. They are held to the outer trim with> machine screws. > Glass holder (for lack of a better name) - two> pieces which hold the > glass in a U shaped channel. There appear to be> tiny pop rivets > holding the rubber gasket in place in the U channel.> > Outer trim - one piece aluminum.> My questions are:> How was the outer trim attached to the cabin side?> 5200? > How is the glass holder attached to the outer trim? > How do I get the glass out so I can caulk around it> or is there > something else I
should be doing to stop the leak?> Bill> Sailing F36 Hard Earned out of New Bedford Yacht> Club, Padanaram, MA> > > > > > __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE. Any advice expressed above as to tax matters was neither written nor intended by the sender or Mayer, Brown, Rowe & Maw LLP to be used and cannot be used by any taxpayer for the purpose of avoiding tax penalties that may be imposed under U.S. tax law. If any person uses or refers to any such tax advice in promoting, marketing or recommending a partnership or other entity, investment plan or arrangement to any taxpayer, then (i) the advice was written to support the promotion or marketing (by a person other than Mayer, Brown, Rowe & Maw LLP) of that transaction or matter, and (ii) such taxpayer should seek advice based on the taxpayers particular circumstances from an independent tax advisorThis email and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

5

Posted by mike cunningham (seychellois_lib@…>)

Has anyone repaced the plastic becksons with the SS
opening ports? If so, thoughts on outcome?

— Fargo Rousseau <fargo_r@…> wrote:

Good idea to track the leak (leaks) down if you can
and fix them where they stand if you want the
shortest possible job. I could not find my
leaks… so I removed the fixed ports…and am
glad it did. The whole interior wood area under
the port from was wet…so I was happy to dry it
out. This also gave me a chance to test the seal
between the plastic panel to frame which looked bad.

I placed the whole port, external side up, on a
level table top with newsprint under the whole
port. I carefully filled the fram with water as
high as I could get it. I let it side there for
days. Then carefully removed some of the water and
lifted the port. There were no wet stains on the
paper…so I was pretty sure there were no leaks
(granted that this is not a high pressure test, but
better than nothing).

I was already equiped to replace all of the
Beckson opening ports and had their instructions
and all the materials at hand. Key points are:

  1. Clean the area where the port seals against the
    external cabin side VERY THOROUGHLY. Us no soap
    (because silcone will not seal to a soapy residue).
    Us a mildly abrasive pad and alchohol or gelcoat
    degreaser…and elbow grease…to get every last bit
    of old caulking off. Do the same for the aluminum
    frame.

  2. Beckson recommends that you do a test fitting
    with a few screws to locate the port in its proper
    place, and then gently “paint” a soapy solution on
    the external fiberglass cabin side around the
    outside perimeter of the the aluminum frame. This
    will act as a release agent for the caulking that
    oozes out when you reinstall the port and pull the
    frame down. But… you MUST USE A VERY DRY
    BRUSH…or soap will run down into the sealing
    surface. This step is not completely
    necessary…but it does make the cleanup process
    easier.

  3. Apply Dow silcone sealant (will give the exact
    product number tomorrow) to aluminum frame and
    reinstall the frame. This is a two person job.
    Install all of the screws…but don’t pull them down
    tight. Leave a turn or so until the next day.
    This will allow the caulking to harden up a bit
    before it is mashed flat…effectively giving you a
    thicker “gasket” area between the frame and the
    boat. Don’t try to clean up the caulking that oozes
    out.

  4. In a day or two, come back and tighten the
    screws, super tight is not necessary. If the
    cauking seems very firm, then you can cleany cut it
    away with a new sharp razor blade. GENLTLY insert
    the blade perpendicular to the cabin side and just
    touching the aluminum frame, and trace the blade
    round the frame. Use the lightest of finger
    pressure so that you do not scratch the gelcoat.
    The silicone is very easy to cut. Remove excess
    caulking…patiently…never digging down into the
    caulk between the frame and the cabin side.

We reinstalled all ports using this method on our
F30…and not a leak in the last 6 months. I only
wish that I had replace the plastic glazing on the
fixed ports at that time…because there are
definitly showing their age.

Fargo
F30#12 NARISA

“Lorman, Alvin J.” <ajlorman@…>
wrote:Message I can’t claim that I’m
an expert since I still have some leaks, but I have
to second Mike’s suggestion to check the fit of
the outside frame to the coach top side. When I
started looking at that, I found that the bottom of
one of the aluminum fixed ports was a good 1/8"
away from the side of the coach top. Don’t know
whether the frame was bent or the coach top buckled,
but there was plenty of room for water to be
wicked in. I taped the coach top and injected
caulking up into the gap and that leak, at least,
seems to have stopped.

Al Lorman
F30 Ab Initio

-----Original Message-----
From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mike cunningham
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 8:44 AM
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] F36 fixed ports -
again

I have a 30 and from the sound of it the port
installation is a bit different, however I did
have a
leak a while bck n I think my experience may be
relevant.

There are two wys for a leak to happen

  1. There is a leak between the frame and the hull
  2. Leakag betwen the glass and the frame

Before you attack you should try to determine which
type of leak you have.

Mine was frame to hull along the top lip of the
frame
where a small secton of the sealing compound had
failed. I used one of those small disposable
plastic
box cutters,the kind that has the break off
blades.
Extended the blade about an inch and a half and was
able to slide the blade between the frame lip and
hull
to thoroughy clean the old sealant out. Then bot a
fabric glue syringe (these things are worth their
weight in gold, I got a bunch on the boat) filled it
with a few ccs of sealant and injected sealant
into
the narrow gap I had created between frame and
hull.
Th leak was stopped and I’ve been good for several
years now.

I have also removed the window from the frame for no
reason other than to clean up the ratty plumbers
gasget material that was originally used by
Freedom to
seal the glass to the frame. This is a big job and
IMO
sholdbe avoided at all costs unless you have
absoultely confirmed this is the source of the
leak.

Finding the source can be a challenge. I did it by
creating a cofferdam above and around the port with
rags and setting up a slowly running hose to
provide a
skein of water on the exterior. Remove the
interior
trim frame and begin the search. Freedom went wild
with the black silcone round the glass (it not
only
covers the glass edge, it also obscures the
interior
frame to hull interface) so I found that I neeed
to
cut some of the excess away to be able to see the
frame to hull interface. Sure enough, after a
littie
detective work I was able to trace the leak to a
one
inch area between hull and frame which I proceeded
to
repair as above.

Link to the handy syringe below - you cn find them
cheaper if you google around

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hca/hcahcar3785.htm

— WACtest <wacormack@…> wrote:

Help! No answer from the first posting of this
querry so I’m trying
again. Can anyone shed some light on this?
Please!

The fixed portlight over the galley on my 1986
F36
is leaking and
I’m trying to remove it to rebed it. So far I
have
gotten the
aluminum trim off the inside which revealed
large
amounts of
silicone-like caulk surrounding the U shaped
channel.

It looks like the following:

=== message truncated ===

\

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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

6

Posted by Fargo Rousseau (fargo_r@…>)
Re: Beckson recommended sealant for port installation. Dow Corning 795 is the stuff. Bought it from them along with the replacement ports. Re: SS replacements, Never found anything close to a match for the holes in the cabin sides. Fargo F30#12 NARISAmike cunningham <seychellois_lib@…> wrote: Has anyone repaced the plastic becksons with the SSopening ports? If so, thoughts on outcome? — Fargo Rousseau <fargo_r@…> wrote:> Good idea to track the leak (leaks) down if you can> and fix them where they stand if you want the> shortest possible job. I could not find my> leaks… so I removed the fixed ports…and am> glad it did. The whole
interior wood area under> the port from was wet…so I was happy to dry it> out. This also gave me a chance to test the seal> between the plastic panel to frame which looked bad.> > > I placed the whole port, external side up, on a> level table top with newsprint under the whole> port. I carefully filled the fram with water as> high as I could get it. I let it side there for > days. Then carefully removed some of the water and> lifted the port. There were no wet stains on the> paper…so I was pretty sure there were no leaks> (granted that this is not a high pressure test, but > better than nothing). > > I was already equiped to replace all of the> Beckson opening ports and had their instructions> and all the materials at
hand. Key points are:> > 1. Clean the area where the port seals against the> external cabin side VERY THOROUGHLY. Us no soap> (because silcone will not seal to a soapy residue).> Us a mildly abrasive pad and alchohol or gelcoat > degreaser…and elbow grease…to get every last bit> of old caulking off. Do the same for the aluminum> frame.> > 2. Beckson recommends that you do a test fitting> with a few screws to locate the port in its proper> place, and then gently “paint” a soapy solution on> the external fiberglass cabin side around the> outside perimeter of the the aluminum frame. This> will act as a release agent for the caulking that> oozes out when you reinstall the port and pull the> frame down. But… you MUST USE A VERY DRY>
BRUSH…or soap will run down into the sealing> surface. This step is not completely > necessary…but it does make the cleanup process> easier.> > 3. Apply Dow silcone sealant (will give the exact> product number tomorrow) to aluminum frame and> reinstall the frame. This is a two person job. > Install all of the screws…but don’t pull them down> tight. Leave a turn or so until the next day. > This will allow the caulking to harden up a bit> before it is mashed flat…effectively giving you a> thicker “gasket” area between the frame and the> boat. Don’t try to clean up the caulking that oozes> out. > > 4. In a day or two, come back and tighten the> screws, super tight is not necessary. If the> cauking seems very firm, then you can
cleany cut it> away with a new sharp razor blade. GENLTLY insert > the blade perpendicular to the cabin side and just> touching the aluminum frame, and trace the blade> round the frame. Use the lightest of finger> pressure so that you do not scratch the gelcoat. > The silicone is very easy to cut. Remove excess> caulking…patiently…never digging down into the> caulk between the frame and the cabin side. > > We reinstalled all ports using this method on our> F30…and not a leak in the last 6 months. I only> wish that I had replace the plastic glazing on the> fixed ports at that time…because there are> definitly showing their age.> > Fargo> F30#12 NARISA> > >

“Lorman, Alvin J.” <ajlorman@…>> wrote:Message I can’t claim that I’m> an expert since I still have some leaks, but I have> to second Mike’s suggestion to check the fit of> the outside frame to the coach top side. When I> started looking at that, I found that the bottom of> one of the aluminum fixed ports was a good 1/8"> away from the side of the coach top. Don’t know> whether the frame was bent or the coach top buckled,> but there was plenty of room for water to be> wicked in. I taped the coach top and injected> caulking up into the gap and that leak, at least,> seems to have stopped.> > Al
Lorman> F30 Ab Initio> > > -----Original Message-----> From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com> [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On> Behalf Of mike cunningham> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 8:44 AM> To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] F36 fixed ports → again> > > I have a 30 and from the sound of it the port> installation is a bit different, however I did > have a> leak a while bck n I think my experience may be> relevant.> > There are two wys for a leak to happen> > 1. There is a leak between the frame and the hull> 2. Leakag betwen the glass and the frame> > Before you attack you should try to
determine which> type of leak you have. > > Mine was frame to hull along the top lip of the> frame> where a small secton of the sealing compound had> failed. I used one of those small disposable> plastic> box cutters,the kind that has the break off > blades.> Extended the blade about an inch and a half and was> able to slide the blade between the frame lip and> hull> to thoroughy clean the old sealant out. Then bot a> fabric glue syringe (these things are worth their> weight in gold, I got a bunch on the boat) filled it> with a few ccs of sealant and injected sealant> into> the narrow gap I had created between frame and> hull.> Th leak was stopped and I’ve been good for several> years now.> > I have also
removed the window from the frame for no> reason other than to clean up the ratty plumbers> gasget material that was originally used by> Freedom to> seal the glass to the frame. This is a big job and > IMO> sholdbe avoided at all costs unless you have> absoultely confirmed this is the source of the> leak.> > Finding the source can be a challenge. I did it by> creating a cofferdam above and around the port with> rags and setting up a slowly running hose to> provide a> skein of water on the exterior. Remove the> interior> trim frame and begin the search. Freedom went wild> with the black silcone round the glass (it not> only> covers the glass edge, it also obscures the> interior> frame to hull interface) so I found that I neeed
to> cut some of the excess away to be able to see the> frame to hull interface. Sure enough, after a> littie> detective work I was able to trace the leak to a> one> inch area between hull and frame which I proceeded> to> repair as above.> > Link to the handy syringe below - you cn find them> cheaper if you google around> > http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hca/hcahcar3785.htm > > > — WACtest <wacormack@…> wrote:> > > Help! No answer from the first posting of this> > querry so I’m trying > > again. Can anyone shed some light on this? > Please!> > > > The fixed portlight over the galley on
my 1986> F36> > is leaking and > > I’m trying to remove it to rebed it. So far I> have> > gotten the > > aluminum trim off the inside which revealed> large> > amounts of > > silicone-like caulk surrounding the U shaped> > channel.> > > > It looks like the following:> === message truncated ===__________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com