thanks tnltracy
yeah, I still do seem to have a fuel supply issue
injector unions #3+4 are wet, but #1+2 are dry
all 4 were fine before, not sure what’s going on
would be great to have the bleed procedure
thanks!
tracked down the fuel starvation problem - 2 valves were turned the wrong way at the Racors - fuel line had nothing but air in it! bled it all, good wet fuel to all 4 injectors
now she’s almost firing
definitely chilly here in NH, and a tired battery and old fuel don’t help
but right on the verge - actually thought she was running and let off the starter but died - pretty sure she’s gonna get going today
took a little video, we’ll see if they let me attach it…
success! she’s running, but rough - I think fuel-starved - gonna go get a fresh fuel filter - but we have power
be sure to bleed it again after you replace the filter(s)
yup, done - started her up several times yesterday - sounds a lot like a cold diesel that hasn’t run in a few years
looking forward to letting her run for a while next weekend, but I need to figure out how to protect the impeller
I run a hose into the seawater intake, correct? there are 2 screens on the starboard side of the keel on the boat bottom - assuming the front one is intake? and I need to track down the seacock to open - but when I can run her for a few minutes, I’m betting she’ll smooth out quite a bit
meanwhile, I think I found that file for bleed procedure (also contains some useful valve info)
http://www.p385.com/SeaDream.Yanmar.Mech.Info.pdf
Glad to hear she’s running! Definatly don’t want to run long without water in the engine though. One of the seacocks should lead to the raw water pump (make sure you have a good impeller, probably need to replace if you’ve been running dry). A jabsco strainer between them is a good investment, and easy to inspect/ clean out with the glass body and quick open top.
yeah, I have a strainer already, and will definitely use a hose to keep raw pump immersed
also found a new (old) impeller on board, so will throw that in there and keep the other as a spare, if it’s still good
first start, btw: http://youtu.be/zKT8Onj-OLI
When I was running my Yanmar on the hard I disconnected the suction hose from the raw water seacock and placed it in a 5 gallon bucket. I ran a garden hose in the bucket and matched the flow into the bucket with what the engine was drawing. With this setup you can run the engine as long as you like to test things out. No way to add load to the drive shaft or lubricate the cutlass bearing so I would not run it in gear for long. You could momentarly engage forward and reverse to test out.
thanks for the suggestion, 1980raven! will do
(where does that seacock tend to be? in the bilge?)
(btw, the 28CK is the boat I covet - ideal for Cape Cod waters - just big enough to live aboard, but you can sail up on any beach - let me know if you ever want to sell!)
Rolf it is located below the water line usually on the same side as the water pump. The hose runs between the intake seacock and the in on your strainer or the in on your water pump. After spending 3 years refitting Raven we are very happy with how she looks and sails. If you are going to the Narragansett Bay Freedom Get together in July I will give you a tour.
Art
AS someone who’s burned up a cutlas bearing by running it on the hard, be very careful about how long you run it for. If you do this, be sure to wet it first & then only run for a few seconds with it in gear.
– Geoff
thanks Art - I would love to get the the Freedom get-together - may not have my 39PH ready to sail yet - may bring the Beneteau - is that in bad taste?) - and thanks for the seacock directions - I’m sure I’ll find it easily
Geoff: roger, will not run her in gear for more than a second or two - thanks!
Update:
Back at the boat. Figured out raw water/impeller circuit. Got good flow to the impeller (it was actually wet from winterizing w/ coolant - pretty sure I didn´t damage with couple brief starts last week).
Re-started the engine. Required significant manual priming of the fuel lift pump, but once it was primed, started easily. Ran for a couple minutes. Shut down b/c exhaust (outside) was smoking (white).
Good news: she does start and run easily, which speaks well to the health of the block and head. Marina guy confirmed that she had been running strong in 2012 when the sea trial/survey was done.
Bad news: same guy also said PO had non-mechanic rebuild the injection pump. Said it did not run well after pump was re-fitted, and they stopped working on her after that.
My guess, based on the fact that IP looks new or rebuilt, is that the non-mechanic guy actually acquired the pump from a legitimate rebuilder, but that it was not timed, at all, when reinstalled. There is significant knock on at least one cylinder. Will try to post a video.
My hope is that all it needs is a professional timing adjustment.
Meanwhile, Anyone know any amateur tips for IP timing??? would like to do what I can myself, and also understand better what it needs/how she is off
Also:
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one weeping injector (number 1), or possibly the return line above it; something´s leaking; need to track that down
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any idea why IP lift pump needed several dozen strokes manual priming to start, after a week of sitting? is that normal? possibly related to weeping injector/return line?
Thanks for any thoughts!
Rolf in MA
ran her up a couple times today
still white smoke, and I am hesitant to run her for too long - don´t want to upset the marina folks
smoke did start to dissipate somewhat after several minutes, but not substantially - still thick
exhaust water comes out in spurts, like a horse peeing - is that normal?
uploading videos now
videos
running: https://youtu.be/5CCCRHTWgfA
smoking: https://youtu.be/PFNv67Ka-f8
ran her for 10 min, per boatdiesel.com forum suggestion - not much difference, except top of thermostat housing got hot - valve cover warm, everything else cool to the touch - still white smoke, not quite as much, but unacceptably voluminous for normal motoring - exhaust water still coming out in spurts, resulting puddle has thin oily sheen - exhaust does not smell terribly of unburnt fuel, definitely not sweet like coolant, doubt blown gasket, but somewhat fuelish, like exhaust should - is it normal to have any oil/fuel in the exhaust water at all? ideally none, correct? does this indicate unburnt fuel (of course)? can you be running lean (white smoke; poor timing) and still have unburnt fuel? I am guessing yes – any thoughts very much appreciated at this point - local yard specializes in Yanmars, has 3 qualified techs, but they ´don´t travel´ - i.e. I can´t get a pro here, so far - thanks! Rolf in NH
have been advised to get her in the water and put engine under load to further assess smoke situation (after addressing any possible electrical/fuel supply issues)
gonna do that
meanwhile:
-
any idea how to perform a basic ´static´ IP timing adjustment? consulting both manual and local diesel mechs, but no clear answer yet
(what does seem clear is that the pump should have been timed when re-nstalled, and was not) -
simplest/most direct method for wiring battery/starter/alternator? have seen several different configurations, wondering if anyone has experience/suggestions - starter (new Nippon-Denso) definitely requires its own ground - case-to-block does not provide adequate negative - I will be running a short strap from lower starter mounting bolt to nearest motor mount (about 8")
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seacock for raw water pickup is a foot aft of the engine, starboard of keel - is there a raw water discharge at all, or does it just get ejected with exhaust? (there is another seacock at front of the keel, also to starboard - assuming that is for a different function?)
thanks all
Rolf in NH
The raw water gets ejected through the exhaust system. You should see a hose coming from the engine block to the mixing elbow in exhaust.
Happy sailing
Jim D.
yup, figured that out - just didn’t know if all the raw water went out w/ the exhaust - I guess the impeller only picks up what it ‘needs’ - strainer bowl acts as a reservoir
that fore seacock must be raw water pickup for head