Marine Formula: does it work?

fgljff · December 20, 2006, 9:52pm

Posted by fgljff (fgljff@…>)

I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to debond 3M 5200.
It’s of
particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock which has been
bonded with
polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? It’s about $14.00
for a can of it,
and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost try anything to
get that
seacock loose without destroying the hull.

sitchmo · December 21, 2006, 2:21am

Posted by sitchmo (sylvanm@…>)

Debond Marine Formula works like a charm. I needed to remove a huge
glob of 5200 from inside the hull and after spraying with Marine
Formula and waiting 5 to 10 minutes I could pull it off with my hands.

This will make a very tough job much easier.

Cheers,

Mac
Apsara
1993 F35

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:

I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to debond
3M 5200. It’s of
particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock
which has been bonded with
polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? It’s
about $14.00 for a can of it,
and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost try
anything to get that
seacock loose without destroying the hull.

Greg_Prior · December 21, 2006, 3:34pm

Posted by Greg Prior (gregprior-info@…>)

I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They decided the best
way to get
the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed in a new one.
This sounded
horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was solid fiberglass
with no chance of
the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being compromised by
heat, torque,
etc.

-Greg

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:

I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to debond 3M 5200.
It’s of
particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock which has been
bonded with
polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? It’s about
$14.00 for a can of
it,
and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost try anything
to get that
seacock loose without destroying the hull.

andre_laviolette · December 21, 2006, 4:00pm

Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
Greg, I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid in that area. Where on bottom did you intall this seacock. Andre Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote: I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They decided the best way to get the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull,
drill a hole and bed in a new one. This sounded horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was solid fiberglass with no chance of the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being compromised by heat, torque, etc.-Greg— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:>> I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to debond 3M 5200. It’s of > particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock which has been bonded with > polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? It’s about $14.00 for a can of it, > and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost try anything to get that > seacock loose without destroying the hull.> __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the
best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Herman_and_Gail_Schi · December 21, 2006, 5:27pm

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

Andre,
I hope that you didn’t make that hole too close to the front
of the keel. That area is solid glass so that when you bonk something
with the keel the impact loads are distributed to the rest of the
hull. Interrupting the distributive path for these loads is not a
good thing. Herm

At 11:00 AM 12/21/2006, you wrote:

Greg,
I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being
said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of
the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid
in that area.
Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.
Andre

Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:
I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They
decided the best way to get
the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed
in a new one. This sounded
horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was
solid fiberglass with no chance of
the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being
compromised by heat, torque,
etc.

-Greg

— In
mailto:freedomyachts2003%40yahoogroups.com freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:

I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to
debond 3M 5200. It’s of
particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock
which has been bonded with
polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it?
It’s about $14.00 for a can of
it,
and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost
try anything to get that
seacock loose without destroying the hull.

Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

andre_laviolette · December 21, 2006, 8:36pm

Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
No worries mon, Through hull for dethsounder was installed a couple of feet forward of keel at the intersection of 2 bulkheads. The aft end is more suceptible to that kind of damage as that area would be under compressive forces. Question is where does the core begin. Andre. Herman and Gail Schiller <hschiller2@…> wrote: Andre,I hope that you didn’t make
that hole too close to the front of the keel. That area is solid glass so that when you bonk something with the keel the impact loads are distributed to the rest of the hull. Interrupting the distributive path for these loads is not a good thing. HermAt 11:00 AM 12/21/2006, you wrote:>Greg,>I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being >said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of >the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid >in that area.>Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.>Andre>>Greg Prior <gregprior-info@ix.netcom.com> wrote:>I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They >decided the best way to get>the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed >in a new one. This
sounded>horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was >solid fiberglass with no chance of>the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being >compromised by heat, torque,>etc.>>-Greg>>— In >mailto:freedomyachts2003%40yahoogroups.com freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, >“fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:> >> > I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to > debond 3M 5200. It’s of> > particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock > which has been bonded with> > polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? > It’s about $14.00 for a can of>it,> > and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost > try anything to get that> >
seacock loose without destroying the hull.> >>>>__________________________________________________>Do You Yahoo!?>Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around>http://mail.yahoo.com> __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Herman_and_Gail_Schi · December 21, 2006, 10:20pm

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

Andre,
If you have an extra depth-sounder sensor lying around, I’d
hook it up to the instrument in the boat, stick it into a
water-filled baggie, and run it left and right of the keel area. When
the depth sounder reading becomes inconsistent, it’s probably because
the core is interfering with solid transmission of the sound pulse
through the hull. I haven’t tried this, but I know that cores and
voids in the laminate cause the DS not to work well. Herm

At 03:36 PM 12/21/2006, you wrote:

No worries mon,

Through hull for dethsounder was installed a couple of feet forward
of keel at the intersection of 2 bulkheads.
The aft end is more suceptible to that kind of damage as that area
would be under compressive forces.

Question is where does the core begin.

Andre.

Herman and Gail Schiller <hschiller2@…> wrote:
Andre,
I hope that you didn’t make that hole too close to the front
of the keel. That area is solid glass so that when you bonk something
with the keel the impact loads are distributed to the rest of the
hull. Interrupting the distributive path for these loads is not a
good thing. Herm

At 11:00 AM 12/21/2006, you wrote:

Greg,
I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being
said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of
the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid
in that area.
Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.
Andre

Greg Prior
<mailto:gregprior-info%40ix.netcom.comgregprior-info@…> wrote:
I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They
decided the best way to get
the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed
in a new one. This sounded
horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was
solid fiberglass with no chance of
the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being
compromised by heat, torque,
etc.

-Greg

— In
mailto:freedomyachts2003%40yahoogroups.com<mailto:freedomyachts20
03%40yahoogroups.com>freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:

I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to
debond 3M 5200. It’s of
particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock
which has been bonded with
polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it?
It’s about $14.00 for a can of
it,
and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost
try anything to get that
seacock loose without destroying the hull.

Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
<http://mail.yahoo.com/>http://mail.yahoo.com

Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Attachment: (image/jpeg) 25066c9.jpg [not stored]

jerry_weinraub1 · December 21, 2006, 11:37pm

Posted by jerry weinraub (zayde@…>)

Thump the bottom with a rubber hammer-that usually tells where the core begins

----- Original Message -----
From: andre laviolette
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Marine Formula: does it work?

No worries mon,

Through hull for dethsounder was installed a couple of feet forward of keel at the intersection of 2 bulkheads.
The aft end is more suceptible to that kind of damage as that area would be under compressive forces.

Question is where does the core begin.

Andre.

Herman and Gail Schiller <hschiller2@suddenlink.net> wrote:

Andre,I hope that you didn’t make that hole too close to the front of the keel. That area is solid glass so that when you bonk something with the keel the impact loads are distributed to the rest of the hull. Interrupting the distributive path for these loads is not a good thing. HermAt 11:00 AM 12/21/2006, you wrote:>Greg,>I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being >said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of >the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid >in that area.>Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.>Andre>>Greg Prior <gregprior-info@ix.netcom.com> wrote:>I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They >decided the best way to get>the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed >in a new one. This sounded>horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was >solid fiberglass with no chance of>the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being >compromised by heat, torque,>etc.>>-Greg>>— In >mailto:freedomyachts2003%40yahoogroups.com freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, >“fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:> >> > I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to > debond 3M 5200. It’s of> > particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock > which has been bonded with> > polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? > It’s about $14.00 for a can of>it,> > and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost > try anything to get that> > seacock loose without destroying the hull.> >>>>__________________________________________________>Do You Yahoo!?>Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around>http://mail.yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Richard_Fontaine · December 21, 2006, 11:55pm

Posted by Richard Fontaine (rafontaine1@…>)
I found the easiest way to remove a stuborn thruhull was to take a grinder the mushrooom end or external end of the thruhull fitting. Carefully grind it off flush with the hull. Using a large or suitably sized pipe wrench twist out the thrull/seacock from inside the boat. I’ve done it twice and worked both times.

Rich
----- Original Message ----From: Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…>To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 10:34:49 AMSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Marine Formula: does it work?

I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They decided the best way to get the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed in a new one. This sounded horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was solid fiberglass with no chance of the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being compromised by heat, torque, etc.-Greg— In freedomyachts2003@ yahoogroups. com, “fgljff” <fgljff@…> wrote:>> I read about a product called Marine Formula which claims to debond 3M 5200. It’s of > particular interest to me, since I’m trying to remove a seacock which has been bonded with > polyurethane. Has anyone ever heard of this stuff, or used it? It’s about $14.00 for a can of it, > and sprays onto the bedding. I’m at the point where I’ll almost try anything to
get that > seacock loose without destroying the hull.>
__________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Greg_Prior · December 22, 2006, 2:57pm

Posted by Greg Prior (gregprior-info@…>)

Hi Andre-

Yes, balsa it is, and a good thing too!. The one I replaced was the overboard
discharge for
the head just aft of the head. There was another problem, and that was the lack
of space
to get a wrench on the old seacock.

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, andre laviolette <andrelaviolette@…>
wrote:

Greg,
I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being said the
through hull
I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of the keel was solid GLASS about
5/8 inch.
Often cored hulls are solid in that area.
Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.
Andre

Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:
I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They
decided the best
way to get
the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed in a new
one. This
sounded
horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was solid
fiberglass with no
chance of
the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being compromised
by heat,
torque,
etc.

-Greg

andre_laviolette · December 22, 2006, 5:28pm

Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
Greg, Thanks I will know for future reference. Mine seem to have been changed in the past. Last owner spent 24K $ on " Scaramanga ". And I some MORE $ since ! Insurance co. will only insure it for 14 K $ max. A replacement mast may be more than that. They can be easily repaired however. Having been in the glass boat building business, I prefer solid glass hulls with hat sections ( ribs ) every 18 inches or so. Love this little boat ! Andre.Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote: Hi Andre-Yes, balsa it is, and a good thing too!. The one I replaced was the overboard discharge for the head just aft of the head. There was another problem, and that was the lack of space to get a wrench on the old seacock.— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, andre laviolette <andrelaviolette@…> wrote:>> Greg,> I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid in that area.> Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.> Andre > > Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:> I just had a
stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They decided the best way to get > the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed in a new one. This sounded > horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was solid fiberglass with no chance of > the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being compromised by heat, torque, > etc.> > -Greg> __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

andre_laviolette · December 22, 2006, 5:29pm

Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
Greg, Thanks I will know for future reference. Mine seem to have been changed in the past. Last owner spent 24K $ on " Scaramanga ". And I some MORE $ since ! Insurance co. will only insure it for 14 K $ max. A replacement mast may be more than that. They can be easily repaired however. Having been in the glass boat building business, I prefer solid glass hulls with hat sections ( ribs ) every 18 inches or so. Love this little boat ! Andre.Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote: Hi Andre-Yes, balsa it is, and a good thing too!. The one I replaced was the overboard discharge for the head just aft of the head. There was another problem, and that was the lack of space to get a wrench on the old seacock.— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, andre laviolette <andrelaviolette@…> wrote:>> Greg,> I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being said the through hull I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of the keel was solid GLASS about 5/8 inch. Often cored hulls are solid in that area.> Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.> Andre > > Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:> I just had a
stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They decided the best way to get > the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and bed in a new one. This sounded > horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was solid fiberglass with no chance of > the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being compromised by heat, torque, > etc.> > -Greg> __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Herman_and_Gail_Schi · December 22, 2006, 10:15pm

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

That boat with that many hat section ribs should be an absolute
gas to clean up. I guess a land-based vacuum cleaner will do it for
dry spills; but wet spills, Oy! Herm

At 12:29 PM 12/22/2006, you wrote:

Greg,

Thanks I will know for future reference. Mine seem to have been
changed in the past. Last owner spent 24K $ on " Scaramanga ". And
I some MORE $ since ! Insurance co. will only insure it for 14
K $ max. A replacement mast may be more than that. They can be
easily repaired however.
Having been in the glass boat building business, I prefer solid
glass hulls with hat sections ( ribs ) every 18 inches or so.

Love this little boat !

Andre.

Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:
Hi Andre-

Yes, balsa it is, and a good thing too!. The one I replaced was the
overboard discharge for
the head just aft of the head. There was another problem, and that
was the lack of space
to get a wrench on the old seacock.

— In
mailto:freedomyachts2003%40yahoogroups.com freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
andre laviolette <andrelaviolette@…>
wrote:

Greg,
I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being
said the through hull
I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of the keel was solid
GLASS about 5/8 inch.
Often cored hulls are solid in that area.
Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.
Andre

Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:
I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They
decided the best
way to get
the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and
bed in a new one. This
sounded
horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was
solid fiberglass with no
chance of
the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being
compromised by heat,
torque,
etc.

-Greg

Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

andre_laviolette · December 23, 2006, 12:27am

Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
A WET vac ! LOLHerman and Gail Schiller <hschiller2@…> wrote: That boat with that many hat section ribs should be an absolute gas to clean up. I guess a land-based vacuum cleaner will do it for dry spills; but wet spills, Oy! HermAt 12:29 PM 12/22/2006, you wrote:>Greg,>>Thanks I will know for future reference. Mine seem to have been >changed in the past. Last owner spent 24K $ on " Scaramanga ". And >I some MORE $ since ! Insurance co. will
only insure it for 14 >K $ max. A replacement mast may be more than that. They can be >easily repaired however.>Having been in the glass boat building business, I prefer solid >glass hulls with hat sections ( ribs ) every 18 inches or so.>>Love this little boat !>>Andre.>>Greg Prior <gregprior-info@ix.netcom.com> wrote:>Hi Andre->>Yes, balsa it is, and a good thing too!. The one I replaced was the >overboard discharge for>the head just aft of the head. There was another problem, and that >was the lack of space>to get a wrench on the old seacock.>>— In >mailto:freedomyachts2003%40yahoogroups.com freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, >andre laviolette
<andrelaviolette@…>>wrote:> >> > Greg,> > I was told the hull of the F25 was balsa cored ! UGH! That being > said the through hull>I installed ON the CENTERLINE just forward of the keel was solid >GLASS about 5/8 inch.>Often cored hulls are solid in that area.> > Where on bottom did you intall this seacock.> > Andre> >> > Greg Prior <gregprior-info@…> wrote:> > I just had a stubbornly stiff seacock replaced on my F25. They > decided the best>way to get> > the it out was to cut it out, patch the hull, drill a hole and > bed in a new one. This>sounded> > horrible at first, but then again, it insured that the hull was > solid fiberglass with no>chance of> > the balsa core (if it wasn’t properly done at the factory) being > compromised by
heat,>torque,> > etc.> >> > -Greg> >>>>__________________________________________________>Do You Yahoo!?>Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around>http://mail.yahoo.com> __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Simon_Dubberley · December 23, 2006, 10:14am

Posted by Simon Dubberley (simon@…>)

3M 5200 really is a brilliant compound, we use it in our large boat
yard to re-bond keels to hulls. Highly recommended! Available in the
U.K. from Marine and Industrial Sealants.

Simon F25 (lifting keel)