Mast Clunk or Squeak

Posted by Brian Guptil (sailordude@…>)

Two noises, different solutions

Mast Clunk;

Clunk is caused by the mast inside diameter being larger then the outside of the
disk that
the mast fits over. The sound is a thud that occurs when you tack. The fix is
to fill in the
gap. ÇAUTION: If you bond the mast to the disk, deliberately or otherwise,
your next
mast removal will be with a Saws-All, an extremely undesirable un-intended
consequence.

Mast Squeak;

I think this comes from the “wedge” flexing. For me, it is a Live With it,
Freedom Quark.

Mast Base Bolts.

The Stainless bolts thru the mast base are intended to keep the mast from
“twisting,” not
to keep the mast from slipping, and thus thunking at the base.

Remember, Carbon masts bend and flex, desirable. Wood wedges, are hard spots,
since
the do not flex (enough) in their use as a deck wedge, Thus they are Point
Loaded spots
on the mast. Undesirable. Remember, wood wedges are common on STAYED rigs,
where
flexing is undesirable, as yo need to keep the compression element, (mast) the
compression-tension loop, IN COLUMN, (not bowing.) Mast bend, in the for-aft
plain, is
a different issue.

A note;

Boat hulls flex, and when they do, things either flex as well or have room to
slip. If the
bulked was originally hard bonded to the hull, then fix it. IF not, maybe a
non-squeaky
gap filler would be more desirable. If you bond something that is not designed
to be, you
will be modifying the stress distribution or as they call it a Hardspot.
Sometimes it isn’t
problem, but _______.

S/V Cayenne, freedom 44 with two Permanent Masts

Posted by Rick Higgens (higgens@…>)

Brian makes good points, the only thing I’d add is in reference to the
mast base bolt. When I was stepping my mast last Spring, Paul Dennis
asked if I had the rubber tubing for the bolt. I told him there was
no rubber tubing and he said that may have been the reason for the
CLUNK. The tubing or sleeve slides over the bolt and makes it fit
tightly in the channel on the step keeping that bolt from sliding side
to side in the channel. If you have a really tight fitting mast base
/ step combo I guess the sleeve wouldn’t be as important. That and he
also suggested a good slathering of silicone around the step before
setting the mast down. Everywhere EXCEPT the channel for the mast to
weep out any water that gets in above. With these done, so far we’ve
not had any Clunks so far (knocking on wood).

Rick
F30 #12 Nauti-Belle

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Brian Guptil”
<sailordude@…> wrote:

Two noises, different solutions

Mast Clunk;

Clunk is caused by the mast inside diameter being larger then the
outside of the disk that
the mast fits over. The sound is a thud that occurs when you tack.
The fix is to fill in the
gap. ÇAUTION: If you bond the mast to the disk, deliberately or
otherwise, your next
mast removal will be with a Saws-All, an extremely undesirable
un-intended
consequence.

Mast Squeak;

I think this comes from the “wedge” flexing. For me, it is a Live
With it, Freedom Quark.

Mast Base Bolts.

The Stainless bolts thru the mast base are intended to keep the mast
from “twisting,” not
to keep the mast from slipping, and thus thunking at the base.

Remember, Carbon masts bend and flex, desirable. Wood wedges, are
hard spots, since
the do not flex (enough) in their use as a deck wedge, Thus they
are Point Loaded spots
on the mast. Undesirable. Remember, wood wedges are common on
STAYED rigs, where
flexing is undesirable, as yo need to keep the compression element,
(mast) the
compression-tension loop, IN COLUMN, (not bowing.) Mast bend, in
the for-aft plain, is
a different issue.

A note;

Boat hulls flex, and when they do, things either flex as well or
have room to slip. If the
bulked was originally hard bonded to the hull, then fix it. IF not,
maybe a non-squeaky
gap filler would be more desirable. If you bond something that is
not designed to be, you
will be modifying the stress distribution or as they call it a
Hardspot. Sometimes it isn’t
problem, but _______.

S/V Cayenne, freedom 44 with two Permanent Masts

Posted by Nhat Khong (nhatkhong1@…>)

Rick,

I’m encountering that clunking now. Perhaps your solution might
work. Do you mean basically adding a tight rubber sleeve around the
bolt? Would it be tight enough? Or perhaps I should use a stainless
steel sleeve? And can you really make it fit tightly enough to
prevent the clunking?

Thanks,
-Nhat

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Rick Higgens”
<higgens@…> wrote:

Brian makes good points, the only thing I’d add is in reference to
the
mast base bolt. When I was stepping my mast last Spring, Paul
Dennis
asked if I had the rubber tubing for the bolt. I told him there was
no rubber tubing and he said that may have been the reason for the
CLUNK. The tubing or sleeve slides over the bolt and makes it fit
tightly in the channel on the step keeping that bolt from sliding
side
to side in the channel. If you have a really tight fitting mast
base
/ step combo I guess the sleeve wouldn’t be as important. That and
he
also suggested a good slathering of silicone around the step before
setting the mast down. Everywhere EXCEPT the channel for the mast
to
weep out any water that gets in above. With these done, so far
we’ve
not had any Clunks so far (knocking on wood).

Rick
F30 #12 Nauti-Belle

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Brian Guptil”
<sailordude@> wrote:

Two noises, different solutions

Mast Clunk;

Clunk is caused by the mast inside diameter being larger then the
outside of the disk that
the mast fits over. The sound is a thud that occurs when you
tack.
The fix is to fill in the
gap. ÇAUTION: If you bond the mast to the disk, deliberately or
otherwise, your next
mast removal will be with a Saws-All, an extremely undesirable
un-intended
consequence.

Mast Squeak;

I think this comes from the “wedge” flexing. For me, it is a Live
With it, Freedom Quark.

Mast Base Bolts.

The Stainless bolts thru the mast base are intended to keep the
mast
from “twisting,” not
to keep the mast from slipping, and thus thunking at the base.

Remember, Carbon masts bend and flex, desirable. Wood wedges, are
hard spots, since
the do not flex (enough) in their use as a deck wedge, Thus they
are Point Loaded spots
on the mast. Undesirable. Remember, wood wedges are common on
STAYED rigs, where
flexing is undesirable, as yo need to keep the compression
element,
(mast) the
compression-tension loop, IN COLUMN, (not bowing.) Mast bend, in
the for-aft plain, is
a different issue.

A note;

Boat hulls flex, and when they do, things either flex as well or
have room to slip. If the
bulked was originally hard bonded to the hull, then fix it. IF
not,
maybe a non-squeaky
gap filler would be more desirable. If you bond something that is
not designed to be, you
will be modifying the stress distribution or as they call it a
Hardspot. Sometimes it isn’t
problem, but _______.

S/V Cayenne, freedom 44 with two Permanent Masts

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

On my Mull 28, the sleeve seems to be (just) high quality rubber hos. Herm

At 06:49 PM 1/25/2008, you wrote:

Rick,

I’m encountering that clunking now. Perhaps your solution might
work. Do you mean basically adding a tight rubber sleeve around the
bolt? Would it be tight enough? Or perhaps I should use a stainless
steel sleeve? And can you really make it fit tightly enough to
prevent the clunking?

Thanks,
-Nhat

— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
“Rick Higgens”
<higgens@…> wrote:

Brian makes good points, the only thing I’d add is in reference to
the
mast base bolt. When I was stepping my mast last Spring, Paul
Dennis
asked if I had the rubber tubing for the bolt. I told him there was
no rubber tubing and he said that may have been the reason for the
CLUNK. The tubing or sleeve slides over the bolt and makes it fit
tightly in the channel on the step keeping that bolt from sliding
side
to side in the channel. If you have a really tight fitting mast
base
/ step combo I guess the sleeve wouldn’t be as important. That and
he
also suggested a good slathering of silicone around the step before
setting the mast down. Everywhere EXCEPT the channel for the mast
to
weep out any water that gets in above. With these done, so far
we’ve
not had any Clunks so far (knocking on wood).

Rick
F30 #12 Nauti-Belle

— In

mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,

“Brian Guptil”

<sailordude@> wrote:

Two noises, different solutions

Mast Clunk;

Clunk is caused by the mast inside diameter being larger then the
outside of the disk that
the mast fits over. The sound is a thud that occurs when you
tack.
The fix is to fill in the
gap. ÇAUTION: If you bond the mast to the disk, deliberately or
otherwise, your next
mast removal will be with a Saws-All, an extremely undesirable
un-intended
consequence.

Mast Squeak;

I think this comes from the “wedge” flexing. For me, it is a Live
With it, Freedom Quark.

Mast Base Bolts.

The Stainless bolts thru the mast base are intended to keep the
mast
from “twisting,” not
to keep the mast from slipping, and thus thunking at the base.

Remember, Carbon masts bend and flex, desirable. Wood wedges, are
hard spots, since
the do not flex (enough) in their use as a deck wedge, Thus they
are Point Loaded spots
on the mast. Undesirable. Remember, wood wedges are common on
STAYED rigs, where
flexing is undesirable, as yo need to keep the compression
element,
(mast) the
compression-tension loop, IN COLUMN, (not bowing.) Mast bend, in
the for-aft plain, is
a different issue.

A note;

Boat hulls flex, and when they do, things either flex as well or
have room to slip. If the
bulked was originally hard bonded to the hull, then fix it. IF
not,
maybe a non-squeaky
gap filler would be more desirable. If you bond something that is
not designed to be, you
will be modifying the stress distribution or as they call it a
Hardspot. Sometimes it isn’t
problem, but _______.

S/V Cayenne, freedom 44 with two Permanent Masts

Posted by Rick Higgens (higgens@…>)

The tubing really is just rubber hose. But as in many things, size
matters! It needs to fit over the bolt tightly and then snug in the
channel. Mine was so snug in the channel I thought it was too large
(like Paul Dennis didn’t know what size tube to give me :-). When you
add the weight of the mast, is EASILY fit in the channel. The thing
is you can’t do any of this work without pulling the mast. But then
that’s the time to square off the mast base too.

Rick F30 #12 Nauti-Belle