Posted by sweeneyscrod@… (sweeneyscrod@…)
I spoke with Paul Dennis former production manager at Freedom @ One River Boat Works. He said the syntron shafts did not have zerks. He said there was a plug that you removed to burp but also said this was not really necessary to do. He also said that over time you couldn’t get the plugs out anyway to perform this burping function. I too have greased my zerk on my syntron shaft as did the previous owner for years-18 to be exact!! Paul Dennis said to check the four screws on the front of the plate-they can corrode. He said this was the most important thing to check. Can anyone clear up this confusion as I do have a zerk on the shaft and I doubt the previous owner added it???Help.
Posted by Richard Fontaine (rafontaine1@…>)
I don’t doubt that Paul Dennis is correct becasue FMC in their literrature say nothing of greasing the Syntron shaft seal. However my seal had a zerk fitting which I have been applying grease to since I purchased boat in 2001. I have no reason to doubt that the previous 2 owners did the same. I say this because my owners manual specifically states to grease syntron seal. I replaced my syntron seal this season purely for maintenance reasons as mine was original (1986, F36 Hull #23). I installed with a zerk fitting same as original and applied grease. Why not? Original lasted 18+ years, never leaked during my ownership, so if this one last another 18 years I’ll either be dead from old age or too old to care. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Rich Fontaine
Liberte, sweeneyscrod@… wrote:
I spoke with Paul Dennis former production manager at Freedom @ One River Boat Works. He said the syntron shafts did not have zerks. He said there was a plug that you removed to burp but also said this was not really necessary to do. He also said that over time you couldn’t get the plugs out anyway to perform this burping function. I too have greased my zerk on my syntron shaft as did the previous owner for years-18 to be exact!! Paul Dennis said to check the four screws on the front of the plate-they can corrode. He said this was the most important thing to check. Can anyone clear up this confusion as I do have a zerk on the shaft and I doubt the previous owner added it???Help. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Posted by seychellois_lib (seychellois_lib@…>)
Rich,
I am with you, been doing the same for the six years I’ve owned my
F30, however, the syntron does heat up to about 150 degrees or
thereabouts when steaming for long periods. That amount of heating
concerns me and is the only reason I question the greasing approach.
Mike
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Richard Fontaine
<rafontaine1@y…> wrote:
I don’t doubt that Paul Dennis is correct becasue FMC in their
literrature say nothing of greasing the Syntron shaft seal. However
my seal had a zerk fitting which I have been applying grease to since
I purchased boat in 2001. I have no reason to doubt that the previous
2 owners did the same. I say this because my owners manual
specifically states to grease syntron seal. I replaced my syntron
seal this season purely for maintenance reasons as mine was original
(1986, F36 Hull #23). I installed with a zerk fitting same as
original and applied grease. Why not? Original lasted 18+ years,
never leaked during my ownership, so if this one last another 18 years
I’ll either be dead from old age or too old to care. If it ain’t
broke don’t fix it.Rich Fontaine
Liberte,sweeneyscrod@a… wrote:
I spoke with Paul Dennis former production manager at Freedom @ One
River Boat Works. He said the syntron shafts did not have zerks. He
said there was a plug that you removed to burp but also said this was
not really necessary to do. He also said that over time you couldn’t
get the plugs out anyway to perform this burping function. I too have
greased my zerk on my syntron shaft as did the previous owner for
years-18 to be exact!! Paul Dennis said to check the four screws on
the front of the plate-they can corrode. He said this was the most
important thing to check. Can anyone clear up this confusion as I do
have a zerk on the shaft and I doubt the previous owner added it???Help.
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Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)
I have the original technical data from FMC for their Syntron RP
Mechanical Shaft Seals and some E-mail correspondence from their
tech rep, a Mr. Roger Isenberg. I can’t scan it but I can qoute some
relevent passages.
From the tech manual…" RP Mechanical Shaft Seals must be filled
with an abrasive-free and chemically-nondestructive liquid to carry
off the small amount of frictional heat generated. Seal coolant can
be the actual fluid thats being sealed or an independent flushing
liquid."
…" Kits are available which contain precision parts to replace
all parts normally subject to wear…"
…" Vent openings in the face of the drive ring permit the liquid
being handled to enter the housing. …This method can be used on
slow speed (les than 2000 r.p.m.) applications."
…““The RP Seal Flush Connectionfeature consists of inlet and
outlet ports in the housing flange, tapped for standard 1/8” pipe.
Thus either the liquid being sealed or an outside liquid, depending
upon conditions enters the seal housing and provides forced cooling.”
From an e-mail dated 08/01/01 from Mr. Rodger Isenberg 724 479-4692
…“Our mechanical seal for the Freedom Yachts are vented on the
side toward the propeller to allow for water to enter the seal to
assist in cooling and lubricating the seal.
The seal must have begun leaking and someone replaced the pipe
plugs with grease fittings and filled the seal with grease.
We recommend replacing the seal. On a monthly basis and
everytime it is placed in the water, that the pipe plug is loosed
until all the air is removed and water begins to be seen.”
The seal is to be cooled and lubed by seawater which enters the seal
from a vented drive ring on the propeller side of the seal.
The Pipe plugs on the side of the housing are for an optional forced
cooling system and can be used to bleed the seal.
The seal was never meant to be greased and is a misuse of the
product.
If someone wants to scan thse documents to file on this BB, give me
a fax # and I’d be happy to oblige.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
Rich,
I am with you, been doing the same for the six years I’ve owned my
F30, however, the syntron does heat up to about 150 degrees or
thereabouts when steaming for long periods. That amount of heating
concerns me and is the only reason I question the greasing
approach.Mike
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Richard Fontaine
<rafontaine1@y…> wrote:I don’t doubt that Paul Dennis is correct becasue FMC in their
literrature say nothing of greasing the Syntron shaft seal.
However
my seal had a zerk fitting which I have been applying grease to
since
I purchased boat in 2001. I have no reason to doubt that the
previous
2 owners did the same. I say this because my owners manual
specifically states to grease syntron seal. I replaced my syntron
seal this season purely for maintenance reasons as mine was
original
(1986, F36 Hull #23). I installed with a zerk fitting same as
original and applied grease. Why not? Original lasted 18+ years,
never leaked during my ownership, so if this one last another 18
years
I’ll either be dead from old age or too old to care. If it ain’t
broke don’t fix it.Rich Fontaine
Liberte,sweeneyscrod@a… wrote:
I spoke with Paul Dennis former production manager at Freedom @
One
River Boat Works. He said the syntron shafts did not have zerks. He
said there was a plug that you removed to burp but also said this
was
not really necessary to do. He also said that over time you
couldn’t
get the plugs out anyway to perform this burping function. I too
have
greased my zerk on my syntron shaft as did the previous owner for
years-18 to be exact!! Paul Dennis said to check the four screws on
the front of the plate-they can corrode. He said this was the most
important thing to check. Can anyone clear up this confusion as I
do
have a zerk on the shaft and I doubt the previous owner added it???
Help.
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
Visit your group "freedomyachts2003" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms ofService.
Do You Yahoo!?
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Posted by Lorman, Alvin J. (ajlorman@…>)
If you contact me at F30abinitio at yahoo.com, I’ll give you my fax number. I’d prefer not to publish it.
Al Lorman
-----Original Message-----From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of macks011Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 8:35 AMTo: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Digest Number 667I have the original technical data from FMC for their Syntron RP Mechanical Shaft Seals and some E-mail correspondence from their tech rep, a Mr. Roger Isenberg. I can’t scan it but I can qoute some relevent passages.From the tech manual…" RP Mechanical Shaft Seals must be filled with an abrasive-free and chemically-nondestructive liquid to carry off the small amount of frictional heat generated. Seal coolant can be the actual fluid thats being sealed or an independent flushing liquid.“…” Kits are available which contain precision parts to replace all parts normally subject to wear…“…” Vent openings in the face of the drive ring permit the liquid being handled to enter the housing. …This method can be used on slow speed (les than 2000 r.p.m.) applications.“…”“The RP Seal Flush Connectionfeature consists of inlet and outlet ports in the housing flange, tapped for standard 1/8” pipe. Thus either the liquid being sealed or an outside liquid, depending upon conditions enters the seal housing and provides forced cooling."From an e-mail dated 08/01/01 from Mr. Rodger Isenberg 724 479-4692…"Our mechanical seal for the Freedom Yachts are vented on the side toward the propeller to allow for water to enter the seal to assist in cooling and lubricating the seal. The seal must have begun leaking and someone replaced the pipe plugs with grease fittings and filled the seal with grease. We recommend replacing the seal. On a monthly basis and everytime it is placed in the water, that the pipe plug is loosed until all the air is removed and water begins to be seen."The seal is to be cooled and lubed by seawater which enters the seal from a vented drive ring on the propeller side of the seal.The Pipe plugs on the side of the housing are for an optional forced cooling system and can be used to bleed the seal.The seal was never meant to be greased and is a misuse of the product.If someone wants to scan thse documents to file on this BB, give me a fax # and I’d be happy to oblige.— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib” <seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:> Rich,> > I am with you, been doing the same for the six years I’ve owned my> F30, however, the syntron does heat up to about 150 degrees or> thereabouts when steaming for long periods. That amount of heating> concerns me and is the only reason I question the greasing approach. > > Mike> > — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Richard Fontaine> <rafontaine1@y…> wrote:> > I don’t doubt that Paul Dennis is correct becasue FMC in their> literrature say nothing of greasing the Syntron shaft seal. However> my seal had a zerk fitting which I have been applying grease to since> I purchased boat in 2001. I have no reason to doubt that the previous> 2 owners did the same. I say this because my owners manual> specifically states to grease syntron seal. I replaced my syntron> seal this season purely for maintenance reasons as mine was original> (1986, F36 Hull #23). I installed with a zerk fitting same as> original and applied grease. Why not? Original lasted 18+ years,> never leaked during my ownership, so if this one last another 18 years> I’ll either be dead from old age or too old to care. If it ain’t> broke don’t fix it.> > > > Rich Fontaine> > Liberte, > > > > sweeneyscrod@a… wrote:> > I spoke with Paul Dennis former production manager at Freedom @ One> River Boat Works. He said the syntron shafts did not have zerks. He> said there was a plug that you removed to burp but also said this was> not really necessary to do. He also said that over time you couldn’t> get the plugs out anyway to perform this burping function. I too have> greased my zerk on my syntron shaft as did the previous owner for> years-18 to be exact!! Paul Dennis said to check the four screws on> the front of the plate-they can corrode. He said this was the most> important thing to check. Can anyone clear up this confusion as I do> have a zerk on the shaft and I doubt the previous owner added it???Help. > > > > ---------------------------------> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > > > > > Visit your group “freedomyachts2003” on the web.> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:> > freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of> Service. > > > > > > ---------------------------------> > > > > > > > __________________________________________________> > Do You Yahoo!?> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > > http://mail.yahoo.com
Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)
781-721-2919 fax to me and I’ll scan and post.
Alan F-33 Hull # 51 1982
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 8:35 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Digest Number 667
I have the original technical data from FMC for their Syntron RP Mechanical Shaft Seals and some E-mail correspondence from their tech rep, a Mr. Roger Isenberg. I can’t scan it but I can qoute some relevent passages.From the tech manual…" RP Mechanical Shaft Seals must be filled with an abrasive-free and chemically-nondestructive liquid to carry off the small amount of frictional heat generated. Seal coolant can be the actual fluid thats being sealed or an independent flushing liquid.“…” Kits are available which contain precision parts to replace all parts normally subject to wear…“…” Vent openings in the face of the drive ring permit the liquid being handled to enter the housing. …This method can be used on slow speed (les than 2000 r.p.m.) applications.“…”“The RP Seal Flush Connectionfeature consists of inlet and outlet ports in the housing flange, tapped for standard 1/8” pipe. Thus either the liquid being sealed or an outside liquid, depending upon conditions enters the seal housing and provides forced cooling."From an e-mail dated 08/01/01 from Mr. Rodger Isenberg 724 479-4692…"Our mechanical seal for the Freedom Yachts are vented on the side toward the propeller to allow for water to enter the seal to assist in cooling and lubricating the seal. The seal must have begun leaking and someone replaced the pipe plugs with grease fittings and filled the seal with grease. We recommend replacing the seal. On a monthly basis and everytime it is placed in the water, that the pipe plug is loosed until all the air is removed and water begins to be seen."The seal is to be cooled and lubed by seawater which enters the seal from a vented drive ring on the propeller side of the seal.The Pipe plugs on the side of the housing are for an optional forced cooling system and can be used to bleed the seal.The seal was never meant to be greased and is a misuse of the product.If someone wants to scan thse documents to file on this BB, give me a fax # and I’d be happy to oblige.— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib” <seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:> Rich,> > I am with you, been doing the same for the six years I’ve owned my> F30, however, the syntron does heat up to about 150 degrees or> thereabouts when steaming for long periods. That amount of heating> concerns me and is the only reason I question the greasing approach. > > Mike> > — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Richard Fontaine> <rafontaine1@y…> wrote:> > I don’t doubt that Paul Dennis is correct becasue FMC in their> literrature say nothing of greasing the Syntron shaft seal. However> my seal had a zerk fitting which I have been applying grease to since> I purchased boat in 2001. I have no reason to doubt that the previous> 2 owners did the same. I say this because my owners manual> specifically states to grease syntron seal. I replaced my syntron> seal this season purely for maintenance reasons as mine was original> (1986, F36 Hull #23). I installed with a zerk fitting same as> original and applied grease. Why not? Original lasted 18+ years,> never leaked during my ownership, so if this one last another 18 years> I’ll either be dead from old age or too old to care. If it ain’t> broke don’t fix it.> > > > Rich Fontaine> > Liberte, > > > > sweeneyscrod@a… wrote:> > I spoke with Paul Dennis former production manager at Freedom @ One> River Boat Works. He said the syntron shafts did not have zerks. He> said there was a plug that you removed to burp but also said this was> not really necessary to do. He also said that over time you couldn’t> get the plugs out anyway to perform this burping function. I too have> greased my zerk on my syntron shaft as did the previous owner for> years-18 to be exact!! Paul Dennis said to check the four screws on> the front of the plate-they can corrode. He said this was the most> important thing to check. Can anyone clear up this confusion as I do> have a zerk on the shaft and I doubt the previous owner added it???Help. > > > > ---------------------------------> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > > > > > Visit your group “freedomyachts2003” on the web.> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:> > freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of> Service. > > > > > > ---------------------------------> > > > > > > > __________________________________________________> > Do You Yahoo!?> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > > http://mail.yahoo.com