Re: Fuel Contamination

Archives
1

Posted by PPrieto839@… (PPrieto839@…)

I had the same problem in my 40/40. The algae dies in the tank and it settles to the bottom. When you go out in rough seas the stuff get stirred up and you have a clog fuel filter.
I had a company come in and to what they call fuel polishing. Basically they connect hoses into the tank and pump the fuel through a filter system returning it backk to the tank. While doing this they apply some air iinto the tank to stirr up the gunk… At the begining they take a sample and show you the color of the fuel. They do the same at the end and it is remarkable. It is a time consuming process and not cheap. Around $300 but I have had no problems since I had id done.
See AOL’s top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.

2

Posted by Michael Gillin (michael_w_gillin@…>)

The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
secondary fuel filters.
We added a fuel biocide to the tank.
I replaced a new fuel line from the tank to the engine.
Also replaced engine and racor filters.

Moving the boat last week we experienced periods of engine dying out
and black smoke out the exhaust.
The engine only did this when we encounter heavy seas probably stiring
up the tank contents.
Entering calm water the engine ran like a bear.

My question is this .

If in fact the problem is being caused by algae build up in the tank
what are my options ?

If I pump out all the remaining fuel and capture it in containers can
it be used again ?
How can I properly clean out the diesel tank to insure all contaminents
are removed ?

If If I replace the factory tank does removal require cutting the
fifiberglass surrounding the tank ?

Anyone who has experienced similar problems please HELP !!!
although not completly

3

Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)


On my F-33 I was able to clean the tank by
opening the inspection port and with the fuel level hand pumped out reach
around and clean the bottom and sides. The fuel in my case wasn’t so bad
so I could just let my racor filters handle it after that. It was more
preventive on my part.
Alan





From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael Gillin
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007
10:27 AM
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Fuel
Contamination




The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last
year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
secondary fuel filters.
We added a fuel biocide to the tank.
I replaced a new fuel line from the tank to the engine.
Also replaced engine and racor filters.

Moving the boat last week we experienced periods of engine dying out
and black smoke out the exhaust.
The engine only did this when we encounter heavy seas probably stiring
up the tank contents.
Entering calm water the engine ran like a bear.

My question is this .

If in fact the problem is being caused by algae build up in the tank
what are my options ?

If I pump out all the remaining fuel and capture it in containers can
it be used again ?
How can I properly clean out the diesel tank to insure all contaminents
are removed ?

If If I replace the factory tank does removal require cutting the
fifiberglass surrounding the tank ?

Anyone who has experienced similar problems please HELP !!!
although not completly

\

4

Posted by Thomas Wales (twales@…>)

Having gone through this issue myself, you might as well bite the
bullet and replace the fuel in the tank. While you’re at it, after
you have the tank drained, open the inspection portal and clean out
the sludge in the bottom. One of the major causes of engine issues
is bad or old fuel. I have to force myself to go through at least
one tank of fuel each year. Otherwise, the old fuel gets worse and
worse and will clog your filters. I would not re-use the old fuel,
even if it looks ok. You could probably recycle it or find a place
that uses a heating system which utilizes waste oil. Believe it or
not, there are several in my neighborhood. so I don’t have the issue
of where to send it. I always fill the tank before winter haulout
and use a good fuel stabilizer.
Good luck,
TW Anoush Koon, Pemaquid, ME





At 10:27 AM 12/18/2007, you wrote:

The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
secondary fuel filters.
We added a fuel biocide to the tank.
I replaced a new fuel line from the tank to the engine.
Also replaced engine and racor filters.

Moving the boat last week we experienced periods of engine dying out
and black smoke out the exhaust.
The engine only did this when we encounter heavy seas probably stiring
up the tank contents.
Entering calm water the engine ran like a bear.

My question is this .

If in fact the problem is being caused by algae build up in the tank
what are my options ?

If I pump out all the remaining fuel and capture it in containers can
it be used again ?
How can I properly clean out the diesel tank to insure all contaminents
are removed ?

If If I replace the factory tank does removal require cutting the
fifiberglass surrounding the tank ?

Anyone who has experienced similar problems please HELP !!!
although not completly

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12/17/2007 2:13 PM



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PM

5

Posted by Weeks MD, Andrew (aweeks@…>)


I did
it the cheap way, I removed the tank inspection plate, pumped out the fuel (put
it in my oil tank at home), cleaned up the junk in the bottom of the tank with
diapers, then refilled the tank with clean fuel – and calibrated the gauge
too.

-----Original Message-----
From:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of PPrieto839@…
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007
11:12 AM
To:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003]
Fuel Contamination





I had the same problem in my 40/40. The algae dies in
the tank and it settles to the bottom. When you go out in rough seas the stuff
get stirred up and you have a clog fuel filter.


I had a company come in and to what they call fuel
polishing. Basically they connect hoses into the tank and pump the fuel through
a filter system returning it backk to the tank. While doing this they apply
some air iinto the tank to stirr up the gunk… At the begining they take a
sample and show you the color of the fuel. They do the same at the end and it
is remarkable. It is a time consuming process and not cheap. Around $300 but I
have had no problems since I had id done.

\









See
AOL’s top
rated recipes and easy
ways to stay in shape for winter.


\

6

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
There is no need to replace your tank!! You can pay the 3 to 5 hundred dollars to have your fuel professionally polished, but there is an easier, and cheaper way. All of the contaminated fuel is at the bottom of the tank. Algae only grows in water (not the fuel). So, where ever there is water in your tank algae will grow. Usually, it grows in a small puddle of water laying on the bottom of the tank (depending upon how much water has entered your tank) usually through a bad O-ring on the fill cap, or, through condensation from a partially filled tank.
My mechanic taught me how to do it the inexpensive way.Hopefully, you have an inspection port at the top of the tank. If not, have one installed at an accessible location, because you will use it at the beginning of season, or, annually to maintain a clean tank.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy a 12 volt fuel pump (I paid around $ 30.00). Attach a clear plastic 1/4" tubing to the suction side of the fuel pump. Attach any tubing from the discharge side of the pump to any container. Insert the clear tubing into the inspection port and turn on the pump. Vacuum the bottom of the tank with the end of the clear tubing. You will see the algae pass through the tubing when you hit the right area of the tank bottom. It helps to heel the boat over a bit toward the accessible part of the tank bottom so the puddles of water and algae will be easier to reach right under the inspection port. Baffles otherwise will make it difficult to reach the farthest reaches of the tank. That is all there is to it. But, you need to let the algae settle to the bottom of the tank, so, wait for a few days after using the boat. The fuel is still usable, but if it is very old, add a fuel conditioner. Any contamination that remains will be easily handled by your Racors.
This is very effective, and I do it annually. I also keep my tanks full all of the time.On Dec 18, 2007 9:20 AM, Weeks MD, Andrew <aweeks@…

wrote:






I did
it the cheap way, I removed the tank inspection plate, pumped out the fuel (put
it in my oil tank at home), cleaned up the junk in the bottom of the tank with
diapers, then refilled the tank with clean fuel – and calibrated the gauge
too.

-----Original Message-----
From:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of PPrieto839@…
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007
11:12 AM
To:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003]
Fuel Contamination





I had the same problem in my 40/40. The algae dies in
the tank and it settles to the bottom. When you go out in rough seas the stuff
get stirred up and you have a clog fuel filter.


I had a company come in and to what they call fuel
polishing. Basically they connect hoses into the tank and pump the fuel through
a filter system returning it backk to the tank. While doing this they apply
some air iinto the tank to stirr up the gunk… At the begining they take a
sample and show you the color of the fuel. They do the same at the end and it
is remarkable. It is a time consuming process and not cheap. Around $300 but I
have had no problems since I had id done.

\









See
AOL’s top
rated recipes and easy
ways to stay in shape for winter.






– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

7

Posted by Jim Demerest (jdemer@…>)

I agree with Jay. I had problems with contaminated fuel for several years. I had the tank “polished” twice and still had the problem. An older friend told me to pump out the low point in the tank until I got clear fuel and the do that several times a year. It’s been over eight years without any problem. As a side point, the first time I got water and dead/live algae after that I’d get strings of dead algae and for the last several years nothing but clear fuel.

Jim Demerest
F36/38 Lady of Remes

8

Posted by rick_simonds (rick_simonds@…>)

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Michael Gillin”
<michael_w_gillin@…> wrote:

The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
…

Whatever fuel you have in there, just get rid of it. It’s not worth
risking $30 of fuel filters to attempt to save $30 worth of fuel.

About every other year I let the fuel level on my Hoyt 32 get as low
as I dare, perhaps a gallon or two. I just open up the inspection
port and pump that fuel out. (Most “Quicky Lube” places will take
your cruddy old fuel for free.) Pump it into jugs and just get rid
of it. Soak up the last few ounces with paper towels. Put the jugs in
a plastic trash bag while filling them and have another plastic trash
bag open and ready for the paper towels (diesel is terrible stuff
when it gets loose, it stinks for weeks.)

You can easily reach your arm through the inspection port and scrub
out the inside of the tank. Slosh in some “Fuel Dryer” (it’s at boat
stores. It smells suspiciously like rubbing alcohol) and go after the
inside surfaces with a plastic scrubby pad. You have to get into
different positions and maybe use either arm but once you get your
elbow into the tank it is possible to reach every surface. You can
shine a flashlight in there and see much of the tank but not all of
it. You’ll probably see a thin, black, stuck-on coating on most
surfaces. The fuel dryer and scrubby pad will quite easily get the
aluminum back to a bright shine.

Once you’ve got it scrubbed, wipe it down with a dab of fuel dryer on
a paper towel, then wipe all the tank surfaces with clean, dry paper
towels. Soak up the excess fuel dryer with paper towels. Everything
should get back to bright, shiney and dry when you’re done. Clean up
any mess and thoroughly wash your arms. Re-fill the tank with clean,
fresh fuel. Adding some stabilizer and/or algae killer is optional.

I do this every few years. The first time takes maybe 45 minutes. Any
time after that takes about 10 minutes, tops. It ends the fuel
problems.

Rick
Tallahassee

9

Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)


Great advice!!!

Scott Forgey
Creative Thinking Guru
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428

561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1

“My hovercraft is full of eels.”

M. Python






From:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rick_simonds
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007
9:31 PM
To:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re:
Fuel Contamination




— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“Michael Gillin”
<michael_w_gillin@…> wrote:

The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
…

Whatever fuel you have in there, just get rid of it. It’s not worth
risking $30 of fuel filters to attempt to save $30 worth of fuel.

About every other year I let the fuel level on my Hoyt 32 get as low
as I dare, perhaps a gallon or two. I just open up the inspection
port and pump that fuel out. (Most “Quicky Lube” places will take
your cruddy old fuel for free.) Pump it into jugs and just get rid
of it. Soak up the last few ounces with paper towels. Put the jugs in
a plastic trash bag while filling them and have another plastic trash
bag open and ready for the paper towels (diesel is terrible stuff
when it gets loose, it stinks for weeks.)

You can easily reach your arm through the inspection port and scrub
out the inside of the tank. Slosh in some “Fuel Dryer” (it’s at boat
stores. It smells suspiciously like rubbing alcohol) and go after the
inside surfaces with a plastic scrubby pad. You have to get into
different positions and maybe use either arm but once you get your
elbow into the tank it is possible to reach every surface. You can
shine a flashlight in there and see much of the tank but not all of
it. You’ll probably see a thin, black, stuck-on coating on most
surfaces. The fuel dryer and scrubby pad will quite easily get the
aluminum back to a bright shine.

Once you’ve got it scrubbed, wipe it down with a dab of fuel dryer on
a paper towel, then wipe all the tank surfaces with clean, dry paper
towels. Soak up the excess fuel dryer with paper towels. Everything
should get back to bright, shiney and dry when you’re done. Clean up
any mess and thoroughly wash your arms. Re-fill the tank with clean,
fresh fuel. Adding some stabilizer and/or algae killer is optional.

I do this every few years. The first time takes maybe 45 minutes. Any
time after that takes about 10 minutes, tops. It ends the fuel
problems.

Rick
Tallahassee




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10

Posted by Greg (gcantori@…>)

I had the same problems that eventually led to an engine shutdown due
to clogged filters. Only way out is a professional polishing and/or
fuel replacement if they can get to a cleanout or other access hole
in tank.

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Michael Gillin”
<michael_w_gillin@…> wrote:

The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
secondary fuel filters.
We added a fuel biocide to the tank.
I replaced a new fuel line from the tank to the engine.
Also replaced engine and racor filters.

Moving the boat last week we experienced periods of engine dying
out
and black smoke out the exhaust.
The engine only did this when we encounter heavy seas probably
stiring
up the tank contents.
Entering calm water the engine ran like a bear.

My question is this .

If in fact the problem is being caused by algae build up in the tank
what are my options ?

If I pump out all the remaining fuel and capture it in containers
can
it be used again ?
How can I properly clean out the diesel tank to insure all
contaminents
are removed ?

If If I replace the factory tank does removal require cutting the
fifiberglass surrounding the tank ?

Anyone who has experienced similar problems please HELP !!!
although not completly

11

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
Respectfully, I have to disagree that a “professional fuel polishing and fuel replacement” is the only way out. It is a “way out” for your hard earned money to leave your wallet! Most “professional fuel polishers” do not do a good job of agitating the fuel before recycling it through their filters. Read my earlier post regarding this issue. I describe an inexpensive way to remove algae. Once the algae is removed the fuel can be stabilized and re-used without problems.
On Dec 28, 2007 10:04 AM, Greg <gcantori@…> wrote:




I had the same problems that eventually led to an engine shutdown due
to clogged filters. Only way out is a professional polishing and/or
fuel replacement if they can get to a cleanout or other access hole
in tank.

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Michael Gillin”
<michael_w_gillin@…> wrote:

The Freedom 32 I recently purchased had no use last year.
I believe that algae built up in the fuel tank clogging primary and
secondary fuel filters.
We added a fuel biocide to the tank.
I replaced a new fuel line from the tank to the engine.
Also replaced engine and racor filters.

Moving the boat last week we experienced periods of engine dying
out
and black smoke out the exhaust.
The engine only did this when we encounter heavy seas probably
stiring
up the tank contents.
Entering calm water the engine ran like a bear.

My question is this .

If in fact the problem is being caused by algae build up in the tank
what are my options ?

If I pump out all the remaining fuel and capture it in containers
can
it be used again ?
How can I properly clean out the diesel tank to insure all
contaminents
are removed ?

If If I replace the factory tank does removal require cutting the
fifiberglass surrounding the tank ?

Anyone who has experienced similar problems please HELP !!!
although not completly





– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

12

Posted by phildowneyuk (phildowneyuk@…>)

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Weeks MD, Andrew”
<aweeks@…> wrote:

I did it the cheap way, I removed the tank inspection plate, pumped
out
the fuel (put it in my oil tank at home), cleaned up the junk in the
bottom of the tank with diapers, then refilled the tank with clean
fuel

  • and calibrated the gauge too.

-----Original Message-----
From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
PPrieto839@…
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:12 AM
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Fuel Contamination

I had the same problem in my 40/40. The algae dies in the tank and
it
settles to the bottom. When you go out in rough seas the stuff get
stirred up and you have a clog fuel filter.

I had a company come in and to what they call fuel polishing.
Basically
they connect hoses into the tank and pump the fuel through a filter
system returning it backk to the tank. While doing this they apply
some
air iinto the tank to stirr up the gunk… At the begining they take
a
sample and show you the color of the fuel. They do the same at the
end
and it is remarkable. It is a time consuming process and not cheap.
Around $300 but I have had no problems since I had id done.

See AOL’s top rated recipes
http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004
and
easy ways to stay in shape
<http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?
NCID=aoltop00030000000003>
for winter.
i had this porblem too when i bought my freedom so i ran the engine
from a day tank as is used on ribs unfortunately i let the return
pipe get away an ended up with diesel allover the cabin sole in 36
knots of breeze i then spent an evening or two emptying the tank
cleaning it , used a digital camera pushed through the opening to
check it was clean and put in new diesel and biocide it was quite
straightforward realy and i wish id done it first thing rather than
waste time and money rigging up a day tank which i did because i knew
it would work and i needed a result fast rather than face the unknown
quantity inside the tank it has been trouble free ever since.
phil d uk