Posted by tgcmd (Finesse@…>)
I am looking at a 1982 boat that has had one of the original CF masts
replaced with a new one (not same source). Any thoughts on what I
should look for or be wary of?
Thanks.
Posted by Dave_Benjamin (dave_benjamin@…>)
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “tgcmd” <Finesse@s…>
wrote:
I am looking at a 1982 boat that has had one of the original CF
masts
replaced with a new one (not same source). Any thoughts on what I
should look for or be wary of?
Thanks.
You should be glad it was replaced. Chances are the new one is
lighter. Freedom masts were always a bit heavier than they needed to
be, epsecially in that era. Who was the mast builder? Do you know why
it was replaced? Failures are quite rare. Most failures occur from a
manufacturing defect like a void somewhere. Those problems typically
show up when the boat is still pretty new. I know in a few cases the
masts fractured in ridiculously light winds. Making a CF mast is not
like baking a cake. Another cause for replacement is a lightning
strike. If that’s the case you need a good surveyor who can figure
out if there was any other damage. If the thru-hulls are electrically
bonded you might want to have the areas around them carefully
inspected. In theory a great deal of current could have passed
through them and transferred heat to the surrounding fiberglass.
Could it weaken the structure around the thru-hulls? I don’t know.
The main thing I’d look for on any CF mast is improper add-ons. If
anything has been attached to the mast that required mechanical
fasteners (screws, rivets, etc.) I’d consult with a knowledgeable
party, preferably the mast builder. The best way to attach stuff to a
Freedom mast is by bonding, rope loop, or ss band. Drilling holes
that may be in the same load path can compromise the mast. Garhauer
is a good source of ss bands. Glassing something to the mast is not
particularly difficult although you need to take into account loads
placed on the bond. Items placed high on the mast may be subject to g-
loading due to movement of the mast in high winds and steep waves.
You also don’t want to use any more resin than you absolutely to keep
weight to a minimum and maximize strength.
Posted by Frank Minelli (myslo@…>)
HI, I own a 33, 1981 model, and lost my mainmast back in 96 or 7. That was a very special education: I found that the thickness of the carbon stick was a mere .l2-.18 of an inch , and that at deck level (were the break occurred) When I pulled the stump, I found that the foot of the mast had fairly disintegrated, caused by the two set bolts of 5/8 dia, which were inserted through the collar to keep the stick from rotating… with nothing protecting the cf around the bolt holes !!! That, in fact, had caused our stick to go…
After that lesson, I pulled the mizzen, reinforced it. First by inserting a 2" thick solid aluminum disc into the bottom (machined to fit very tight), with the boltholes for the set bolts pre -drilled. That took care of that problem. (actually, two one-inch plates, one atop the other)
I then removed the paint from the stick and laid up heavy glass (27oz diagonal with random weave backing) in epoxy, on that portion of the stick that is below deck, including the part going through the deck. The part above deck I enforced with three layers of carbon fiber, topped off with a layer of kevlar.
We have since been in the Caribbean with this boat, full t ime, and have been through the usual foul weather, with some mighty rough days. There has never been an axious moment regarding those two sticks.
Good luck.
Franktgcmd <Finesse@…> wrote:
I am looking at a 1982 boat that has had one of the original CF mastsreplaced with a new one (not same source). Any thoughts on what Ishould look for or be wary of?Thanks.
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Posted by tgcmd (Finesse@…>)
Dave and Frank,
Thanks. You have given me a lot of good questions to go over eith my
surveyor and rigger. With luck, I may find out some answers in the
coming days.
Thomas