Vented loops in sanitary system

Posted by Nan Shellabarger (nshellab2@…>)

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull, hull #9). I was
surprised to see that the only vented loop in the system was in the overboard
discharge line - AFTER the diverter valve. Every reference diagram I’ve looked
at shows a vented loop in the water intake line (on mine the intake line goes
right to the head with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE
the diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always be using the
holding tank so in the current set-up there is no loop at all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)

Your system includes the head overboard discharge option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between the flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the the discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the possibility of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines need to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system completely. By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.





– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull, hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop in the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no loop at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by Pathmark (pathmark2000@…>)

This is good information, would you mind posting the schematic for all of us to see.

thanks in advance,
mike

----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 8:30 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Vented loops in sanitary system
Your system includes the head overboard discharge option. For optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three vented loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between the flush water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over board discharge line between the diverter valve and the the discharge thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and the discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the possibility of back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines need to be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge option, you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding tank, change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump and eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system completely. By eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and the possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into the holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT for pump out.If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my sanitation rebuild.-- In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger <nshellab2@e…> wrote:> I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull, hull #9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the system was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter valve. Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop in the water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the head with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE the diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always be using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no loop at all. > How are other F28 or F30s set up? > How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)

Is it necessary to have a vented loop in the intake line? even if
you run with the head intake seacock open, aren’t you fairly well
protected by the valve on the head?

I’m curious because on my F40, there’s essentially a straight shot
from the intake to the head, then a straight shot from head to
diverter valve. From the diverter to the holding tank is straight,
but from the diverter to overboard is a vented loop.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011” <macks04@o…>
wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between the
flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the the discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the possibility of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines need
to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system completely. By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull, hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the
system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop in the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no loop
at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by Dave_Benjamin (dave_benjamin@…>)

Lance,
Never trust those valves in your head. The best thing to do is keep
the intake thru-hull closed while underway. I know of boats that have
taken substantial amounts of water down below as a result of a thru-
hull left open. Same goes for a sink drain not located on the
centerline. If the boat is heeled for period of time water can slosh
in.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:

Is it necessary to have a vented loop in the intake line? even if
you run with the head intake seacock open, aren’t you fairly well
protected by the valve on the head?

I’m curious because on my F40, there’s essentially a straight shot
from the intake to the head, then a straight shot from head to
diverter valve. From the diverter to the holding tank is straight,
but from the diverter to overboard is a vented loop.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011” <macks04@o…>
wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between the
flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the the discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the possibility of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines need
to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge
option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding
tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system completely. By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull, hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the
system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop in
the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no loop
at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by Jacqui MacConnell (jacimacc@…>)

I’d be very interested in your schematics. We are
redoing this precise
puzzle next month. Please let me know if you need
postag and a copying costs, and my snailing address.
Thank you VERY much. Great
to have the benefit of your wheel, already rolled.
Jacqui Mac

— macks011 <macks04@…> wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge
option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need
three vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located
between the flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The
direct over board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the
the discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump
discharge and the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the
possibility of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all
such lines need to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard
discharge option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the
holding tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm
type pump and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system
completely. By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing
sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only
pump into the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the
time EXCEPT for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and
pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan
Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop
(Mull, hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented
loop in the system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the
diverter valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a
vented loop in the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes
right to the head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another
vent BEFORE the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll
almost always be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up
there is no loop at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the
system?



\


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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/

Posted by k.shinn04@… (k.shinn04@…)

I would like to add my 2 cents on this discussion - it is definatley safest to install a vented loop in the intake line if the toilet is mounted below the waterline. That said, with most toilets it should actually be intalled between the pump and the bowl rather than before the pump. If it is installed before the pump you will be sucking air rather than water. Placed between the pump and bowl you will prevent water from filling up and possibly overflowing the bowl.

Kim Shinn
Raritan Engineering Company

-------------- Original message -------------- I’d be very interested in your schematics. We areredoing this precisepuzzle next month. Please let me know if you needpostag and a copying costs, and my snailing address.Thank you VERY much. Greatto have the benefit of your wheel, already rolled. Jacqui Mac— macks011 <macks04@…> wrote:> > Your system includes the head overboard discharge> option. For > optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need> three vented > loops. First, the flush water intake line, located> between the flush > water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The> direct over board > discharge line between the diverter valve and the> the discharge > thruhull and third, between the macerator pump> discharge and the > discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the> possibility of > back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all> such lines need to > be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36> > If you are not going to use the direct overboard> discharge option, > you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the> holding tank, > change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm> type pump and > eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system> completely. By > eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing> sewage and the > possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only> pump into the > holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the> time EXCEPT for > pump out.> > If you are interested, I have schematics and> pictures of my > sanitation rebuild.> > > > > > – In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan> Shellabarger > <nshellab2@e…> wrote:> > I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop> (Mull, hull > #9). I was surprised to see that the only vented> loop in the system > was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the> diverter valve. > Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a> vented loop in the > water intake line (on mine the intake line goes> right to the head > with no vent), and then the diagrams show another> vent BEFORE the > diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll> almost always be > using the holding tank so in the current set-up> there is no loop at > all. > > How are other F28 or F30s set up? > > How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the> system?> > > > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/

Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)

It’s my general practice to cruise with only the essentials open
(like the raw water engine intake and the galley sink drain) - in
fact, I’ve gone to using a dollop of fresh water from the head
faucet rather than raw salt anyway because it really cuts down on
the odors. I was just curious about this from an overall perspective.

Thanks for the info.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Dave_Benjamin”
<dave_benjamin@y…> wrote:

Lance,
Never trust those valves in your head. The best thing to do is
keep
the intake thru-hull closed while underway. I know of boats that
have
taken substantial amounts of water down below as a result of a
thru-
hull left open. Same goes for a sink drain not located on the
centerline. If the boat is heeled for period of time water can
slosh
in.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:

Is it necessary to have a vented loop in the intake line? even
if
you run with the head intake seacock open, aren’t you fairly
well
protected by the valve on the head?

I’m curious because on my F40, there’s essentially a straight
shot
from the intake to the head, then a straight shot from head to
diverter valve. From the diverter to the holding tank is
straight,
but from the diverter to overboard is a vented loop.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three
vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between the
flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over
board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the the
discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and
the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the possibility
of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines
need
to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge
option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding
tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump
and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system completely.
By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into
the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT
for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull,
hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the
system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter
valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop in
the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the
head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE
the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always
be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no
loop
at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by Brian Guptil (sailordude@…>)


Freedom Lovers

Just another opinion!

Like most things
vented loops and closing thru-hulls underway are gray areas. Some close everything
and have paid the price, while others have left open and also paid the price.
It very much “DEPENDS” on who you are, how well you maintain your
boat, and the conditions under which you are sailing.

All of the
Freedoms that I have owned, have shower sumps. As such, there is lots of
time to catch the situation and remedy it well before water hits the
bilge. Now if your are leaving the boat, it may make sense to close the
valves, but a friend lost an engine for that reason when the anchor drug and
the people started the engine to move the boat to safer water, so there is one
example.

Anti-siphon on
the intake makes no sense to me at all. Unless the line from the pump to
the bowl is lengthened and brought up to deck lever, where the siphon brake is
installed, otherwise there is only a matter of inches improvement since the
bowl itself is open to the atmosphere. But that is just me.
Anti-siphon on the “direct discharge” line makes sense, at the top
of a very high loop. Otherwise I would leave them out.

I have modified
all of my boats so that the head discharge goes directly to the holding
tank. The tank discharge line has a “T” with the upper to the
deck pump-out and the lower to a pump and then overboard. On Cayenne, the holding tank is above the water line so no pump is necessary.
Thus the thru-hull is always closed, unless you are actually in the act of
pumping overboard. Since the tank itself is vented, there is no need for
the preverbal vent loop.

Brian
Guptil
sailordude@…
1735 112th Ave.
N.E.
www.brigup.com
Bellevue, WA,
98004-3706 206-818-3203

-----Original Message-----
From: lance_ryley
[mailto:lance_ryley@…]
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 8:59 AM
To:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re:
Vented loops in sanitary system

It’s my general practice to cruise with only the
essentials open
(like the raw water engine intake and the galley
sink drain) - in
fact, I’ve gone to using a dollop of fresh water
from the head
faucet rather than raw salt anyway because it
really cuts down on
the odors. I was just curious about this from an
overall perspective.

Thanks for the info.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“Dave_Benjamin”
<dave_benjamin@y…> wrote:

Lance,
Never trust those valves in your head. The
best thing to do is
keep
the intake thru-hull closed while underway. I
know of boats that
have
taken substantial amounts of water down below
as a result of a
thru-
hull left open. Same goes for a sink drain
not located on the
centerline. If the boat is heeled for period
of time water can
slosh
in.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:

Is it necessary to have a vented loop in
the intake line? even
if
you run with the head intake seacock
open, aren’t you fairly
well
protected by the valve on the head?

I’m curious because on my F40, there’s
essentially a straight
shot
from the intake to the head, then a straight
shot from head to
diverter valve. From the diverter to the
holding tank is
straight,
but from the diverter to overboard is a
vented loop.

Lance

— In
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:

Your system includes the head
overboard discharge option. For
optimum utility (no possible back
siphon) you need three
vented
loops. First, the flush water
intake line, located between the
flush
water pump and the bowl discharge.
Second, The direct over
board
discharge line between the diverter
valve and the the
discharge
thruhull and third, between the
macerator pump discharge and
the
discharge thruhull. You are trying
to prevent the possibility
of
back siphoning in any line open to
the sea,So all such lines
need
to
be vented. Thats how it was on my
Mull 36

If you are not going to use the
direct overboard discharge
option,
you can remove the diverter valve,
run direct to the holding
tank,
change your macerator pump to a
Sealand diaphragm type pump
and
eliminate all the vented loops in
the waste system completely.
By
eliminating high loops, you
eliminate standing sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors.
Also, if you only pump into
the
holding tank, the through hull is
closed ALL the time EXCEPT
for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have
schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary
hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull,
hull
#9). I was surprised to see that
the only vented loop in the
system
was in the overboard discharge line

  • AFTER the diverter
    valve.

Every reference diagram I’ve
looked at shows a vented loop in
the
water intake line (on mine the
intake line goes right to the
head
with no vent), and then the
diagrams show another vent BEFORE
the
diverter valve. I sail in the
Chesapeake so I’ll almost always
be
using the holding tank so in
the current set-up there is no
loop
at
all.

How are other F28 or F30s set
up?
How vulnerable am I without a
vented loop in the system?





\

Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)

I’ve got info in various forms. If you give me your email , I can
give you access to a foto album. Give me your fax and I
can get you the schematic and a text description.


— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Jacqui MacConnell
<jacimacc@y…> wrote:

I’d be very interested in your schematics. We are
redoing this precise
puzzle next month. Please let me know if you need
postag and a copying costs, and my snailing address.
Thank you VERY much. Great
to have the benefit of your wheel, already rolled.
Jacqui Mac

— macks011 <macks04@o…> wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge
option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need
three vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located
between the flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The
direct over board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the
the discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump
discharge and the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the
possibility of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all
such lines need to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard
discharge option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the
holding tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm
type pump and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system
completely. By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing
sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only
pump into the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the
time EXCEPT for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and
pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan
Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop
(Mull, hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented
loop in the system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the
diverter valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a
vented loop in the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes
right to the head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another
vent BEFORE the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll
almost always be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up
there is no loop at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the
system?


Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/

Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)

I don’t like to count on it. My previous head was a Grocco and it
used to back siphon. I replaced it with a Raritan PHII Highboy and
added the vented loop in the line between the hand pump and the
bowl. The vent is mounted high on the bulklead, just under the deck.



— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:

Is it necessary to have a vented loop in the intake line? even if
you run with the head intake seacock open, aren’t you fairly well
protected by the valve on the head?

I’m curious because on my F40, there’s essentially a straight shot
from the intake to the head, then a straight shot from head to
diverter valve. From the diverter to the holding tank is straight,
but from the diverter to overboard is a vented loop.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge option. For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between the
flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the the discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the possibility of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines
need
to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge
option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding
tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system completely.
By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull, hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the
system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop in
the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the
head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent BEFORE
the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost always
be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no
loop
at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)

I’m of a similar opinion. I wanted a simple system with no high
loops and and no mechanical plumbing hazards (valves, tees etc.). I
installed a 30 gal tank low in the bow. The head discharge rises 8"
and then flows by gravity to the holding tank. The holding tank has
two 1-1/2" discharge hoses connected to dip tubes. The first runs up
grade to the deck pumpout fitting and the second runs upgrade to the
bulkhead and then down grade to the diaphragm waste pump. After the
waste pump it is downgrade to the thruhull. The only possible place
for water to stand is in the 8" riser at the head discharge and that
was fabricated in PVC. There are also two seperate 3/4" vent lines.

All fittings come off the top of the tank and are centerlined. The
electric, key operated waste pump has one way valves and the
thruhull is always closed unless pumping the tank. There is a
cleanout on both diptubes and a cleanout just before the waste pump
to introduce antifreeze to the pump with out having to fill the
holding tank. Bulletproof, mechanically simple, operator friendly.




— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Brian Guptil”
<sailordude@b…> wrote:

Freedom Lovers

Just another opinion!

Like most things vented loops and closing thru-hulls underway are
gray
areas. Some close everything and have paid the price, while
others have
left open and also paid the price. It very much “DEPENDS” on who
you are,
how well you maintain your boat, and the conditions under which
you are
sailing.

All of the Freedoms that I have owned, have shower sumps. As
such, there is
lots of time to catch the situation and remedy it well before
water hits the
bilge. Now if your are leaving the boat, it may make sense to
close the
valves, but a friend lost an engine for that reason when the
anchor drug and
the people started the engine to move the boat to safer water, so
there is
one example.

Anti-siphon on the intake makes no sense to me at all. Unless the
line from
the pump to the bowl is lengthened and brought up to deck lever,
where the
siphon brake is installed, otherwise there is only a matter of
inches
improvement since the bowl itself is open to the atmosphere. But
that is
just me. Anti-siphon on the “direct discharge” line makes sense,
at the top
of a very high loop. Otherwise I would leave them out.

I have modified all of my boats so that the head discharge goes
directly to
the holding tank. The tank discharge line has a “T” with the
upper to the
deck pump-out and the lower to a pump and then overboard. On
Cayenne, the
holding tank is above the water line so no pump is necessary.
Thus the
thru-hull is always closed, unless you are actually in the act of
pumping
overboard. Since the tank itself is vented, there is no need for
the
preverbal vent loop.

Brian Guptil mailto:sailordude@b...
sailordude@b…

1735 112th Ave. N.E. http://www.brigup.com
www.brigup.com

Bellevue, WA, 98004-3706 206-818-3203

-----Original Message-----
From: lance_ryley [mailto:lance_ryley@y…]
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 8:59 AM
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Vented loops in sanitary system

It’s my general practice to cruise with only the essentials open
(like the raw water engine intake and the galley sink drain) - in
fact, I’ve gone to using a dollop of fresh water from the head
faucet rather than raw salt anyway because it really cuts down on
the odors. I was just curious about this from an overall
perspective.

Thanks for the info.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Dave_Benjamin”
<dave_benjamin@y…> wrote:

Lance,
Never trust those valves in your head. The best thing to do is
keep
the intake thru-hull closed while underway. I know of boats that
have
taken substantial amounts of water down below as a result of a
thru-
hull left open. Same goes for a sink drain not located on the
centerline. If the boat is heeled for period of time water can
slosh
in.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:

Is it necessary to have a vented loop in the intake line? even
if
you run with the head intake seacock open, aren’t you fairly
well
protected by the valve on the head?

I’m curious because on my F40, there’s essentially a straight
shot
from the intake to the head, then a straight shot from head to
diverter valve. From the diverter to the holding tank is
straight,
but from the diverter to overboard is a vented loop.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:

Your system includes the head overboard discharge option.
For
optimum utility (no possible back siphon) you need three
vented
loops. First, the flush water intake line, located between
the
flush
water pump and the bowl discharge. Second, The direct over
board
discharge line between the diverter valve and the the
discharge
thruhull and third, between the macerator pump discharge and
the
discharge thruhull. You are trying to prevent the
possibility
of
back siphoning in any line open to the sea,So all such lines
need
to
be vented. Thats how it was on my Mull 36

If you are not going to use the direct overboard discharge
option,
you can remove the diverter valve, run direct to the holding
tank,
change your macerator pump to a Sealand diaphragm type pump
and
eliminate all the vented loops in the waste system
completely.
By
eliminating high loops, you eliminate standing sewage and
the
possibility of leaks and odors. Also, if you only pump into
the
holding tank, the through hull is closed ALL the time EXCEPT
for
pump out.

If you are interested, I have schematics and pictures of my
sanitation rebuild.

– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Nan Shellabarger
<nshellab2@e…> wrote:

I’m redoing all the sanitary hoses in my F28 sloop (Mull,
hull
#9). I was surprised to see that the only vented loop in the
system
was in the overboard discharge line - AFTER the diverter
valve.
Every reference diagram I’ve looked at shows a vented loop
in
the
water intake line (on mine the intake line goes right to the
head
with no vent), and then the diagrams show another vent
BEFORE
the
diverter valve. I sail in the Chesapeake so I’ll almost
always
be
using the holding tank so in the current set-up there is no
loop
at
all.
How are other F28 or F30s set up?
How vulnerable am I without a vented loop in the system?

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