Wiring assistance

Archives
1

Posted by cpamba (dalligood@…>)

I have a 1985 Freedom 32, Hoyt design, and would love to get my hands on a
wiring diagram
for the 12V system.

My Guest selector switch has finally crapped out, and during the course of
replacing it and
replacing the batteries, I have run into some electrical issues that are above
my very low
paygrade in this area!

Are there any experts out there that would mind answering what are probably some
basic
questions?

Please respond to thealligoods@… or on this board as well, and thank you!

Jeff

2

Posted by Larry Kraus (kracherlandl@…>)

Hi Jeff,

Linda and I have a 1984 F32. The wiring has been something of a bird’s
nest. After a few times out with dead batteries, we’ve finally done some
research and repairs, and things are working pretty good. I’m no elec
engineer or electrician, but maybe some of your problems are similar to
our experiences. So fire some questions back and let’s see if we can be
of help. BTW - we have no wiring diagrams, just a good VOM and some
smart friends.

We had 2 battery selector switches in the boat. Nobody, including 2
marinas were ever able to figure out the purpose for the second one. We
have a battery isolator for all 3 batteries, and another selector switch
out by the nav station, so the selector switch in the guest cabin is now
out of the circuit. Don’t know if this is how the system was originally
designed, but our system is working fine.


Larry and Linda Kraus
Wind Sonnet

cpamba wrote:

I have a 1985 Freedom 32, Hoyt design, and would love to get my hands
on a wiring diagram
for the 12V system.

My Guest selector switch has finally crapped out, and during the
course of replacing it and
replacing the batteries, I have run into some electrical issues that
are above my very low
paygrade in this area!

Are there any experts out there that would mind answering what are
probably some basic
questions?

Please respond to thealligoods@… mailto:thealligoods%40mac.com
or on this board as well, and thank you!

Jeff

3

Posted by Robert (robert@…>)


Jeff,

There is a manual in the files section of
the freedomyachts2003 group on yahoo, there is some wiring information there,
but it is quite basic. Alternately, if you could describe you
problem, maybe we can help.

Best Regards
Bob

4

Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)


We have a F-32 Hoyt and don’t have a wiring diagram
either.

We have only the one battery switch (by the Nav station).
We haven’t had any trouble with our wiring system.

Scott Forgey
Girlfriend

Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428

561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1

“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”

W. Erhard



From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Larry Kraus
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 9:19 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Wiring assistance

\




Hi Jeff,

Linda and I have a 1984 F32. The wiring has been something of a bird’s
nest. After a few times out with dead batteries, we’ve finally done some
research and repairs, and things are working pretty good. I’m no elec
engineer or electrician, but maybe some of your problems are similar to
our experiences. So fire some questions back and let’s see if we can be
of help. BTW - we have no wiring diagrams, just a good VOM and some
smart friends.

We had 2 battery selector switches in the boat. Nobody, including 2
marinas were ever able to figure out the purpose for the second one. We
have a battery isolator for all 3 batteries, and another selector switch
out by the nav station, so the selector switch in the guest cabin is now
out of the circuit. Don’t know if this is how the system was originally
designed, but our system is working fine.

Larry and Linda Kraus
Wind Sonnet

cpamba wrote:

I have a 1985 Freedom 32, Hoyt design, and would love to get my hands
on a wiring diagram
for the 12V system.

My Guest selector switch has finally crapped out, and during the
course of replacing it and
replacing the batteries, I have run into some electrical issues that
are above my very low
paygrade in this area!

Are there any experts out there that would mind answering what are
probably some basic
questions?

Please respond to thealligoods@…
mailto:thealligoods%40mac.com
or on this board as well, and thank you!

Jeff


\

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5

Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)


Larry - where is the “isolation switch” and what
is its purpose – do you mean an isolation transformer for the ground?

Thanks

Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI

6

Posted by Larry and Linda Kraus (kracherlandl@…>)

Hi Ron,

Sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. The battery isolator is
not a switch. It’s actually a bank of diodes. I believe it works like
this: Each battery bank’s positive lead is connected to a separate lead
on the isolator. The positive wire from the alternator is connected to
the alt lead on the isolator. Each battery bank is, therefore, connected
to an individual diode, which allows current to flow into the battery
from the alternator, but does not allow any current to bleed backwards
to any other battery through the charging circuitry. The selector switch
by the nav station controls which battery is connected to circuits using
power throughout the boat. The net effect of having the isolator is: 1.
Because the alternator bypasses the battery switch, all batteries get
charged regardless of the position of the battery switch. 2. I’ve been
told that I can change the battery switch between batteries, with the
engine running and the ignition key on without blowing the alternator
(lots of guests, could happen accidentally). I haven’t had the nuts to
try this yet, so if I want to change batteries with the engine running,
I turn the key off first. This drops the alternator out of the circuit.
I then change the battery switch, then turn the key back on. 3. I’m told
that the isolator prevents the batteries from discharging one to
another, leaving you without a starting battery, even though you’ve got
the battery switch properly set on the distribution side of the circuit.

So far this season, with the system wired according to the manufacturers
of the shore power battery charger, the isolator, the voltage regulator,
and the alternator, we have not been stranded with a dead starting
battery. This includes running the frig full time. The only time the
house batteries got very discharged was when a guest plugged in an
inverter to charge his GPS. He left the inverter plugged in all night
and the next day the house batteries were dead. But the isolation system
had the starting battery completely isolated. So that battery started
the engine and the house batteries were back up in no time.

I do have 2 questions:

  1. When the house batteries are low, and the starting battery is not,
    the alternator pulses unless the battery switch is on “both”. I know
    that it does so I just put the switch in the “both” position. Curious
    though.
  2. Why would an inverter suck the life out of the house batteries, when
    a refrigeration unit doesn’t? It was only being used to charge a GPS.
    You wouldn’t think that it would be that big a power drain.
    Any thoughts about that?

The isolator is mounted on the sidewall of the battery compartment, just
above the batteries.

Fair winds,

Larry Kraus





















ron barr wrote:

Larry - where is the “isolation switch” and what is its purpose – do
you mean an isolation transformer for the ground?

Thanks

Ron

Hoyt F32

Newport RI

7

Posted by cpamba (dalligood@…>)

Thanks for the responses thus far. I will try to ask my questions
without sounding too ignorant!!

Looks like the battery bank was made for 3 12V batteries. I don’t
know what the original config was because when I went to remove the
dead batteries, only two were connected. Here’s my plan to connect
the three new batteries, using a new Guest 2100 Selector Switch (same
as the original I think)?

  1. Run the + from Bat 1 to one of the terminals on the selector
    switch (SS);
  2. Run the + from Bat 2 and Bat 3 (connected in parallel) to the
    other outside terminal of the SS;
  3. The center terminal on the SS runs to the starter on the engine
    (I think);
  4. The 3 -'s on Bat 1, 2 and 3 are all connected and one wire goes
    to the starter on the engine (again, I think);

Doing this will allow me to use the SS to isolate which battery
(either Bat 1 or Bat 2/3 together) I use to operate the “stuff” in
the boat. If I set the SS to 1, then Bat 1 is the only “active”
battery, Both and all three are “active” and 2 means that only Bat
2/3 are “active.”

First question: Does this make sense? What other info do I need to
provide to help answer this question?

Second question: When I hooked up the SS this way, as soon as I
moved the switch from Off to 1, Both, or 2, the “siren” from the
cockpit started sounding like it did when I would turn the key to
start the engine, and before I pushed the starter button. Any
thoughts?

Thank you for your expertise on this stuff! My father-in-law has
jokingly said he’s not helping anymore until I find a wiring diagram
for the boat, and the basis one from the other web site is not
detailed enough.

Again, thanks!!

Jeff



— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “cpamba” <dalligood@…>
wrote:

I have a 1985 Freedom 32, Hoyt design, and would love to get my
hands on a wiring diagram
for the 12V system.

My Guest selector switch has finally crapped out, and during the
course of replacing it and
replacing the batteries, I have run into some electrical issues
that are above my very low
paygrade in this area!

Are there any experts out there that would mind answering what are
probably some basic
questions?

Please respond to thealligoods@… or on this board as well, and
thank you!

Jeff

8

Posted by cpamba (dalligood@…>)

An update – but first a thank you to those who have responded and have been
helpful so
far.

I’ve purchased and installed a new Guest 2100 switch, currently have run 1
positive to the
Bat 1, and 1 positive to the Bat 2 terminals. I have run the negatives straight
to the engine
(as was done previously). The Feeder terminal on the switch has a wire going to
the
engine, and also a thinner gauge wire powering the control panel.

Problem is, when I turn the switch to either Bat 1, Bat 2 or Both, the alarm
sounds from
the engine (in the cockpit). This is the case even though I don’t have a key in
the ignition!
I haven’t messed with any of the wiring going from the engine to the key switch
stuff in
the cockpit.

Any thoughts??

Again, a big thank you to those electrical experts out there!!!

Jeff


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “cpamba” <dalligood@…> wrote:

I have a 1985 Freedom 32, Hoyt design, and would love to get my hands on a
wiring
diagram
for the 12V system.

My Guest selector switch has finally crapped out, and during the course of
replacing it
and
replacing the batteries, I have run into some electrical issues that are above
my very low
paygrade in this area!

Are there any experts out there that would mind answering what are probably
some
basic
questions?

Please respond to thealligoods@… or on this board as well, and thank you!

Jeff

9

Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)

Jeff,
your problem may be in the wire that you say you have going from the
switch to the engine - on a battery switch, this shouldn’t be
necessary (or desirable). The 2100 has a sensor that you can use to
bypass your alternator to make sure you don’t fry the diodes if you
inadvertently switch the batteries off while the motor is running.
Otherwise, power to your panel should be the only output.

When you say you’ve run the negatives straight to the engine - you
mean straight from the battery negatives to the engine, right?

I’d have to take a look at my switches, but my guess is that by
connecting your switch to the engine as well (if you mean to the
engine and not to the starter) you’re completing a circuit that
shouldn’t exist.

Lance

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “cpamba” <dalligood@…>
wrote:

An update – but first a thank you to those who have responded and
have been helpful so
far.

I’ve purchased and installed a new Guest 2100 switch, currently
have run 1 positive to the
Bat 1, and 1 positive to the Bat 2 terminals. I have run the
negatives straight to the engine
(as was done previously). The Feeder terminal on the switch has a
wire going to the
engine, and also a thinner gauge wire powering the control panel.

Problem is, when I turn the switch to either Bat 1, Bat 2 or Both,
the alarm sounds from
the engine (in the cockpit). This is the case even though I don’t
have a key in the ignition!
I haven’t messed with any of the wiring going from the engine to
the key switch stuff in
the cockpit.

Any thoughts??

Again, a big thank you to those electrical experts out there!!!

Jeff

10

Posted by cpamba (dalligood@…>)

Lance,

To be more clear, I am running a 2 gauge wire from the Feeder on the
Guest 2100 to the Starter Motor on the engine. I am also running a
smaller gauge wire from the Feeder terminal to the control panel bus
bar (if I’m using correct terminology).

I’m also running a 2 gauge wire from the negatives on the batteries
directly to the engine block (common ground, right?).

Finally, I have a bunch of wires going from the starter motor, etc.
back to the ignition stuff in the cockpit.

My guess is that I have a switch problem, meaning when I turn the
2100 switch to Bat 1, Bat 2 or Both, “juice” is flowing to the
ignition switch (which is normal) but that this switch is stuck in
the closed position somehow allowing “juice” to pass through it as
though the key had been turned to the first stop. Seems to me
the “juice” should stop at the key switch, which is open until the
key is actually turned to the first stop.

I hope this makes sense. IF, and a big IF, I am right so far, then
where might be a good source for a new ignition ensemble?

Again, thanks for the help!!!

Jeff

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@…> wrote:

Jeff,
your problem may be in the wire that you say you have going from
the
switch to the engine - on a battery switch, this shouldn’t be
necessary (or desirable). The 2100 has a sensor that you can use to
bypass your alternator to make sure you don’t fry the diodes if you
inadvertently switch the batteries off while the motor is running.
Otherwise, power to your panel should be the only output.

When you say you’ve run the negatives straight to the engine - you
mean straight from the battery negatives to the engine, right?

I’d have to take a look at my switches, but my guess is that by
connecting your switch to the engine as well (if you mean to the
engine and not to the starter) you’re completing a circuit that
shouldn’t exist.

Lance

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “cpamba” <dalligood@>
wrote:

An update – but first a thank you to those who have responded
and
have been helpful so
far.

I’ve purchased and installed a new Guest 2100 switch, currently
have run 1 positive to the
Bat 1, and 1 positive to the Bat 2 terminals. I have run the
negatives straight to the engine
(as was done previously). The Feeder terminal on the switch has
a
wire going to the
engine, and also a thinner gauge wire powering the control
panel.

Problem is, when I turn the switch to either Bat 1, Bat 2 or
Both,
the alarm sounds from
the engine (in the cockpit). This is the case even though I
don’t
have a key in the ignition!
I haven’t messed with any of the wiring going from the engine to
the key switch stuff in
the cockpit.

Any thoughts??

Again, a big thank you to those electrical experts out there!!!

Jeff