F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Engines, Drive trains, Propellers, Steering, Ground Tackle and other mechanical system
TonyB
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2018 2:33 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California

Re: F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Post by TonyB »

I could see how that would work. But would make me very nervous to be partially disassembling (even if just to swing out of the way) the only thing keepin water out of the boat.
With the “Tee” in line I can close the seacock, remove cap, install dowel, open seacock, clear weeds, and reverse process.
Makes me feel safer :-)
Tony
SV Circe 1997 Freedom 40/40 - Hull #20 - Brickyard Cove Marina, Richmond, CA

TonyB
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2018 2:33 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California

Re: F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Post by TonyB »

The next time I haul out I think I will replace the seacock with one of these.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1133518

That will make for a very clean install, allow for very easy clean out, and also be able to be used in an emergency to allow the engine to pump out water.
Tony
SV Circe 1997 Freedom 40/40 - Hull #20 - Brickyard Cove Marina, Richmond, CA

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rvivian
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 2:08 pm

Re: F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Post by rvivian »

The Marlon valve you propose will allow you to flush out your engine, and it would permit using the engine to pump out water from the boat; but it would preclude being able to clear weeds from the raw water intake.
Heart's Desire
Freedom 30
Shelton, WA

TonyB
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2018 2:33 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California

Re: F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Post by TonyB »

Ahhhh, because it doesnt open the hose fitting to the through-hull. Got it. That makes sense. Darn, it would have been so much cleaner an install!
Tony
SV Circe 1997 Freedom 40/40 - Hull #20 - Brickyard Cove Marina, Richmond, CA

bad
Posts: 160
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2011 11:14 am

Re: F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Post by bad »

Tony - I like the idea of what you've done to your water intake. My boat is plumbed with a port and starboard intake that is switchable. Was not my idea though.

Couple of comments. I've been told not to use PVC or brass below the waterline. Svendsens has the right hose to pipe fittings in bronze. Beware that stuff maded in China isn't always what it claims to be. Consider getting hose clamps of the right diameter. I've always hated long tails. They are not hand friendly and cut and snag on stuff at the most inopportune time. Finally - and this isn't always possible, but if the top of the water strainer is installed above the waterline, you can clean it without getting water into the bilge. But this isn't always practical depending on where you want/need to mount it.

Cheers

Erik

TonyB
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2018 2:33 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California

Re: F 40/40 Engine Raw Water intake

Post by TonyB »

Yes all the fittings are bronze (marine grade) or marelon. And the hose is exhaust rated with wire mesh intended for marine use. Very careful in those selections! The clamps you are absolutely right about. I ended up accidentally purchasing one size smaller than would fit easily around the hose. After struggling for an hour to get those two clamps on, I threw in the towel, went to my spares box and pulled out what I had. Those will definitely be replaced with appropriate size. As for the sea strainer, with the sea cock closed it doesn’t leak water with the lid open. With the seacock open It leaks at a moderated speed. Great observations and suggestions.
Tony
SV Circe 1997 Freedom 40/40 - Hull #20 - Brickyard Cove Marina, Richmond, CA

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