F30 main sheet twisting

[mdmatthews]

I have a 1987 Freedom 30 I purchased a year ago and re-did all the running rigging. I replaced the main sheet with 1/2" line which is what the factory manual specified. I have found that after about 5 days of sailing the main sheet has become so twisted at the aft-most set of blocks directly over the companionway that I have to remove the line and re-run it. Not sure if the block setup is causing this or if some special type of line is required for the main sheet.

Anyone else have this problem? If so, any solutions?

Thanks,
Michael Matthews
1987 Freedom 30 "Dawn Marie"

[sailmon]

Phenomena you describe can actually occur with all lines that are coiled when not in use - which is inadvertently encouraged on Freedoms because of the cool line hangers typically installed on the forward cockpit bulkhead. It commonly impacts halyards as well. It is much less likely to occur on boats that have line tail bags - where sheet and halyard tails are bunched up and stuffed into the bag... of course the bag approach also has drawbacks - like tangled lines - which can be especially tricky when you need to quickly drop a sail or dump a sheet. Two tricks have eliminated the problem on our freedoms (a 30 previously and now a 38):
1. When coiling or faking the the halyard and sheet tails, do NOT give a twist as each coil is laid. This will result in the line laying in figure 8's rather than a neat round coil. The twists that make it lay neatly in a round coil result in the twisting up stream when the line is released and fed through the blocks.
2. Second thing I do is drop the line from the line hanger before releasing it and run it between my fingers (beware of rope burns) from winch end to tail (bitter end), removing any twists that were inadvertently introduced.
Line will run better through stopper and no twisting.

Whew - that was a mouth-full. Hope it is helpful.
Finally - as sailors, you need to recognize that we are all a bit "twisted"

[mdmatthews]

Really? You think the hand coiling is causing the problem? An easy theory to test but if just coiling the rope by hand could cause that what about the affect of the line running through the rope clutch, onto the winch and through the self tailer? Seems like that would have even more twisting effect. I'll take your advice and try not to twist the rope as I coil it but I've had many sailboats, have always coiled all lines at the end of the day and have never had this problem before. However, the main sheet on the Freedom goes through more blocks than any sheet on any boat I've ever owned so maybe that magnifies the affect.

Thanks,
Michael

[rvivian]

I think Sailmon is right.

Here is a U-tube video on the topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejo_i7uBoGg

rvivian

[JimD]

Most blocks can be locked so that they don't swivel. That helps a lot.

Jim Demerest
Lady of Remes F36/38

[mdmatthews]

I watched the youtube video and will try putting the rope away as described. The blocks I have on the main sheet are all in need of replacing but I've put it off as the shackles holding them are frozen so they need to be cut off. I've been meaning to do that this winter.

Thanks for all the responses!!

Michael

[sailmon]

I do not think that preventing the mainsheet block from swiveling is a good idea. If the block is unable to swivel and boom is outboard on broad reach or run in a seaway, the sheet will likely pull sideways over block cheek and there is a good chance it will saw through line. in addition to the frustration of ruining the mainsheet, the boom will be free to move forward unencumbered. Absent shrouds to stop it, there is a chance (especially in strong wind) that boom will go forward of 90 degrees - snapping gooseneck fitting or damaging the mast where it attaches. While this is a worst case scenario - not good to take the chance. Best defense is a good offense.

[mdmatthews]

My plans were not to change the ability for the blocks to swivel, just rearrange slightly. Right the forward most pair of blocks ride against each other so hard the block cheeks are cracked and broken. If I add an additional shackle to the system so that the blocks can rotate slightly and are not being forced to twist around each other I think I will reduce the wear on the blocks. This will probably have no affect on the line. I am probably not explaining this well, need some drawings.

I would love to see the block setup on other Mull designed Freedom 30s. I'm assuming mine is how the factory specified but it could be something the previous owner did.

Michael