I’m planning on installing a 2:1 main halyard on my F38. Has anyone tried this? The only problem I see will be fixing the end of the halyard at the masthead.
Michael Belanich
Dolcetto F38#65
Why?
To make it easier to hoist the main. The new main is heavier (square top), I’m weaker (shoulder problems) and an electric winch is too expensive (daughters student loan). 
Ahhh, that makes sense.
When fully hoisted, how close to the main halyard sheave is the headboard of the sail? Adding a block into the system – which you will need to do if it is to run smoothly and be easier to hoist – may mean you cannot hoist the main the last two or three inches, and that will affect the set of the sail. Altering the sail may be the only way round this. The cheaper and more practical alternative, if the hoist height is compromised, may be to try the Milwaukee 36v right angle drill in your winch. It has been mentioned in one or two threads here, including a recent one, (look in “Random Chatter”), and might save a lot of trouble. Probably even cheaper than buying a new, extra long, halyard and high quality block.
Even just replacing the current blocks on the halyard with roller or ball bearing ones, and using a lighter Dyneema line, may make it less of an effort to hoist the main.
We’ll be interested in hearing what works for you; we’re all getting older, and often weaker! Currently I put my trust in a Lewmar Ocean power winch for the last foot or so.
Gerald
I had my rigger install the 2:1 halyard yesterday. It was definitely worth it! He bolted two aluminum plates on either side of the shroud that houses the main halyard sheave to provide a dead end for the 170 foot halyard. I reduced to halyard diameter to 10mm (FSE Robline Sirius 500) and ran it through a Wichard MXEvo 2:1 Main Halyard Shackle. Hoisting the main now requires much less effort and the rope clutch no longer slips. I can finally fully hoist my new sail!
Michael Belanich
Dolcetto F38 #65
Result!
Do you have a picture?
Regards,
Gerald
My sailmaker has been suggesting this to me for a couple of years now. Would love to see pictures too, if you have any.
The rigger usually takes pictures of everything he does so I’ll ask him. I took pictures from the deck but they are not helpful. I’ll post a diagram when I get a chance. Another benefit is about 1/3 less compression load on the mast and I can hoist the sail faster even though I am hauling 2x the line. Only down side is the extra 50 ft of line in the cockpit.
How has this worked out for you over time? My rigger has just suggested that same thing but I am concerned by all the extra string. Also how do you replace the halyard? Is is the dead end attached to the top of the master is fed back down?
Keep well
Peter
The 2:1 halyard is fantastic. I can hoist the sail by hand, the halyard clutch doesn’t slip, I can finally achieve full hoist, there is less compression of the mast. The halyard is dead-ended at the top of the mast so if I need to change the halyard it requires a trip up the mast. I have a large block thru bolted to the thick plate at the masthead that I use as a flag halyard. If I should need to go up the mast to replace the halyard I can replace the flag halyard with the appropriate size rope to climb the mast. I down sized the halyard to 10mm so the extra line is not much of a problem.
The 2:1 halyard is the best rigging change that I have done on the boat. This season I will change to a single continuous traveler control line using a manual Antal Line Driver.
Many thanks. I think I may well give that a go then.
Keep well
Peter