Posted by Nhat Khong (nhatkhong1@…>)
Hello,
I need to add a macerator to the holding tank on my boat so that I can
pump out into the ocean when need be. Can someone help me answer some
of these questions?
-
Should I attach a Y valve into the tank pump out hose and route the
new extension to the macerator then overboard?
-
If not the Y valve from the holding tank, is it wise to drill a new
hold into the holding tank? Is it difficult or is there already
fitting for this configuration? This was originally a Lake Michigan boat.
-
How about instead of a new thru-hull for the macerator, routing the
macerator out to the existing overboard thru-hull? Is that wise? Why not?
-
From what I can read in the forum, upgrading the holding tank size
sounds like a lot of work? Has anyone found an easy way to do this
for the Mull F36?
-
Electric toilet. Is this more headache or less?
All advice, suggestions, opinion is appreciated.
Thanks,
-Nhat
Posted by svfantasy@… (svfantasy@…>)
Nhat,
I replaced the toilet, holding tank and all plumbing in my F-40 CK last year. I installed an electric head which discharges directly to the holding tank, no Y valve. The Coast Guard prefers not having an direct path overboard. I did install a Y valve at the holding tank discharge. I can pump-out through the deck fitting, or, use the macerator pump to pump the tank overboard.
I would not install new ports on your holding tank or a new thru-hull. Just more areas for leaks to develop and an unnecessary hole in the hull.
The electric head works well, but boy are they noisey. Everyone in the harbor knows when you go!!
My electric head also macerates as you flush, but I used a macerator pump for the overboard discharge because they were alot cheaper than the pumps designed for this purpose that do not macerate.
Jay
Posted by William A. Cormack (wacormack@…>)

Eventually any Y-valve will leak. Consider this arrangement:
Toilet goes directly to the tank
Deck pump out hose goes directly to the tank
Put a Tee in the hose from tank to deck
Hose from the Tee to macerator
Hose from macerator to seacock
Attach a piece of wood perpendicular to the seacock, drill it for a wire tie which you can use to “lock” the seacock closed in no-discharge waters
You now have no valve to leak and are legal in no-discharge areas. The one drawback is if you are offshore you would be able to pump directly overboard but can’t with this arrangement.
Bill
MailTo:wacormack@…
----- Original Message -----
From: svfantasy@…
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 11/02/2006 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Advice needed - Adding Macerator to a Mull F36
Nhat,
I replaced the toilet, holding tank and all plumbing in my F-40 CK last year. I installed an electric head which discharges directly to the holding tank, no Y valve. The Coast Guard prefers not having an direct path overboard. I did install a Y valve at the holding tank discharge. I can pump-out through the deck fitting, or, use the macerator pump to pump the tank overboard.
I would not install new ports on your holding tank or a new thru-hull. Just more areas for leaks to develop and an unnecessary hole in the hull.
The electric head works well, but boy are they noisey. Everyone in the harbor knows when you go!!
My electric head also macerates as you flush, but I used a macerator pump for the overboard discharge because they were alot cheaper than the pumps designed for this purpose that do not macerate.
Jay
Posted by Brien Barnewolt (babarnewolt@…>)
The previous owner of my F36/38 placed a holding tank under the v berth with output to a Y valve. From the Y valve, one outlet is to the deck pump-out fitting, the second outlet hose goes to the macerator pump, then out a single thru hull. The old holding tank was replumbed to provide for fresh water flushing of the head. The tank is easily filled from a fitting under the sink and lasts a couple of days. It is completely separate and isolated from any other fresh water system in the boat. Paul Dennis did the work. Works great.BrienOn Nov 2, 2006, at 1:45 PM, Nhat Khong wrote:Hello,I need to add a macerator to the holding tank on my boat so that I canpump out into the ocean when need be. Can someone help me answer someof these questions?1) Should I attach a Y valve into the tank pump out hose and route thenew extension to the macerator then overboard?2) If not the Y valve from the holding tank, is it wise to drill a newhold into the holding tank? Is it difficult or is there alreadyfitting for this configuration? This was originally a Lake Michigan boat.3) How about instead of a new thru-hull for the macerator, routing themacerator out to the existing overboard thru-hull? Is that wise? Why not?4) From what I can read in the forum, upgrading the holding tank sizesounds like a lot of work? Has anyone found an easy way to do thisfor the Mull F36?5) Electric toilet. Is this more headache or less? All advice, suggestions, opinion is appreciated.Thanks,-Nhat
Posted by Dave_Benjamin (dave_benjamin@…>)
If you let any plumbing component get old enough it will leak. That’s
why you rebuild pumps and replace gaskets. The Whale MSD 5406’s that
I use are quite serviceable. They’re cheap enough to replace at the
same service interval that hoses need to be replaced.
A macerator is probably more maintenance than any Y-valve plus it
depends on electricity to function. Ever had to take a macerator
apart and work on it? Not too fun. Using your arrangement what’s the
plan for discharging the waste if your macerator breaks? I’d hate to
cut a cruise short on account of a burnt out macerator motor.
When I’m in areas where I can disharge legally I much prefer to get
the waste off the boat rather than have it collect in a holding tank.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “William A. Cormack”
<wacormack@…> wrote:
Eventually any Y-valve will leak. Consider this arrangement:
1… Toilet goes directly to the tank
2… Deck pump out hose goes directly to the tank
3… Put a Tee in the hose from tank to deck
4… Hose from the Tee to macerator
5… Hose from macerator to seacock
6… Attach a piece of wood perpendicular to the seacock, drill it
for a wire tie which you can use to “lock” the seacock closed in no-
discharge waters
You now have no valve to leak and are legal in no-discharge areas.
The one drawback is if you are offshore you would be able to pump
directly overboard but can’t with this arrangement.
Bill
MailTo:wacormack@…
----- Original Message -----
From: svfantasy@…
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 11/02/2006 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Advice needed - Adding Macerator
to a Mull F36
Nhat,
I replaced the toilet, holding tank and all plumbing in my F-40
CK last year. I installed an electric head which discharges directly
to the holding tank, no Y valve. The Coast Guard prefers not having
an direct path overboard. I did install a Y valve at the holding tank
discharge. I can pump-out through the deck fitting, or, use the
macerator pump to pump the tank overboard.
I would not install new ports on your holding tank or a new thru-
hull. Just more areas for leaks to develop and an unnecessary hole in
the hull.
The electric head works well, but boy are they noisey. Everyone
in the harbor knows when you go!!
My electric head also macerates as you flush, but I used a
macerator pump for the overboard discharge because they were alot
cheaper than the pumps designed for this purpose that do not macerate.
Jay
Posted by William A. Cormack (wacormack@…>)
The alternate plan for getting waste out when the macerator breaks down is the cordless drill I use for winching up the main. The macerator has an access plate which reveals a slot in the motor shaft. Had to use it this summer. Yes, it still depends on electricity but from a different battery.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave_Benjamin
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 11/03/2006 12:11 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Advice needed - Adding Macerator to a Mull F36
If you let any plumbing component get old enough it will leak. That’s why you rebuild pumps and replace gaskets. The Whale MSD 5406’s that I use are quite serviceable. They’re cheap enough to replace at the same service interval that hoses need to be replaced.A macerator is probably more maintenance than any Y-valve plus it depends on electricity to function. Ever had to take a macerator apart and work on it? Not too fun. Using your arrangement what’s the plan for discharging the waste if your macerator breaks? I’d hate to cut a cruise short on account of a burnt out macerator motor. When I’m in areas where I can disharge legally I much prefer to get the waste off the boat rather than have it collect in a holding tank. — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “William A. Cormack” <wacormack@…> wrote:>> Eventually any Y-valve will leak. Consider this arrangement:> 1… Toilet goes directly to the tank> 2… Deck pump out hose goes directly to the tank> 3… Put a Tee in the hose from tank to deck> 4… Hose from the Tee to macerator> 5… Hose from macerator to seacock> 6… Attach a piece of wood perpendicular to the seacock, drill it for a wire tie which you can use to “lock” the seacock closed in no-discharge waters> You now have no valve to leak and are legal in no-discharge areas. The one drawback is if you are offshore you would be able to pump directly overboard but can’t with this arrangement.> > Bill > MailTo:wacormack@…> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: svfantasy@… > To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com > Sent: 11/02/2006 3:23 PM> Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Advice needed - Adding Macerator to a Mull F36> > > > Nhat,> > I replaced the toilet, holding tank and all plumbing in my F-40 CK last year. I installed an electric head which discharges directly to the holding tank, no Y valve. The Coast Guard prefers not having an direct path overboard. I did install a Y valve at the holding tank discharge. I can pump-out through the deck fitting, or, use the macerator pump to pump the tank overboard. > > I would not install new ports on your holding tank or a new thru-hull. Just more areas for leaks to develop and an unnecessary hole in the hull.> > The electric head works well, but boy are they noisey. Everyone in the harbor knows when you go!!> > My electric head also macerates as you flush, but I used a macerator pump for the overboard discharge because they were alot cheaper than the pumps designed for this purpose that do not macerate.> > Jay>
Posted by Nhat Khong (nhatkhong1@…>)
Thank you everyone for your great input. I believe the Y-valve on the
holding tank is the way to go. I will be leaving the Y-valve on the
toilet, since I intend for a some very long crusing and would prefer a
straight overboard hose. I’m also considering a size upgrade and
putting it under the Vee-berth.
I am now deciding on whether or not to make a new thru hull for the
macerator or direct it to the toilet overboard hose with a Y-valve.
Any opinions?
Thanks all!
-Nhat
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “William A. Cormack”
<wacormack@…> wrote:
Eventually any Y-valve will leak. Consider this arrangement:
1… Toilet goes directly to the tank
2… Deck pump out hose goes directly to the tank
3… Put a Tee in the hose from tank to deck
4… Hose from the Tee to macerator
5… Hose from macerator to seacock
6… Attach a piece of wood perpendicular to the seacock, drill it
for a wire tie which you can use to “lock” the seacock closed in
no-discharge waters
You now have no valve to leak and are legal in no-discharge areas.
The one drawback is if you are offshore you would be able to pump
directly overboard but can’t with this arrangement.
Bill
MailTo:wacormack@…
----- Original Message -----
From: svfantasy@…
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 11/02/2006 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Advice needed - Adding Macerator
to a Mull F36
Nhat,
I replaced the toilet, holding tank and all plumbing in my F-40 CK
last year. I installed an electric head which discharges directly to
the holding tank, no Y valve. The Coast Guard prefers not having an
direct path overboard. I did install a Y valve at the holding tank
discharge. I can pump-out through the deck fitting, or, use the
macerator pump to pump the tank overboard.
I would not install new ports on your holding tank or a new
thru-hull. Just more areas for leaks to develop and an unnecessary
hole in the hull.
The electric head works well, but boy are they noisey. Everyone in
the harbor knows when you go!!
My electric head also macerates as you flush, but I used a
macerator pump for the overboard discharge because they were alot
cheaper than the pumps designed for this purpose that do not macerate.
Jay
Posted by Brain Guptil (sailordude@…>)
Don’t forget that simple is simpler. Things left out of an instillation can never fail. On Cayenne, head direct to tank. Tank outlet “T’ed” to deck pumpout and thru-hull. Open thru-hull and tank drains. But my tank is above waterline, so gravity will do the trick other then hard over on port tack. If the tank were below the waterline, I would add a macerator in series with line to the thru-hull. But remember to open the thru-hull before turning on the macerator or else.
Keep it simple.
Brian. S/V Cayenne
-----Original Message-----From: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nhat KhongSent: Friday, November 03, 2006 5:39 PMTo: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Advice needed - Adding Macerator to a Mull F36
Thank you everyone for your great input. I believe the Y-valve on theholding tank is the way to go. I will be leaving the Y-valve on thetoilet, since I intend for a some very long crusing and would prefer astraight overboard hose. I’m also considering a size upgrade andputting it under the Vee-berth.I am now deciding on whether or not to make a new thru hull for themacerator or direct it to the toilet overboard hose with a Y-valve. Any opinions?Thanks all!-Nhat— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “William A. Cormack”<wacormack@…> wrote:>> Eventually any Y-valve will leak. Consider this arrangement:> 1… Toilet goes directly to the tank> 2… Deck pump out hose goes directly to the tank> 3… Put a Tee in the hose from tank to deck> 4… Hose from the Tee to macerator> 5… Hose from macerator to seacock> 6… Attach a piece of wood perpendicular to the seacock, drill itfor a wire tie which you can use to “lock” the seacock closed inno-discharge waters> You now have no valve to leak and are legal in no-discharge areas. The one drawback is if you are offshore you would be able to pumpdirectly overboard but can’t with this arrangement.> > Bill > MailTo:wacormack@…> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: svfantasy@… > To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com > Sent: 11/02/2006 3:23 PM> Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Advice needed - Adding Maceratorto a Mull F36> > > > Nhat,> > I replaced the toilet, holding tank and all plumbing in my F-40 CKlast year. I installed an electric head which discharges directly tothe holding tank, no Y valve. The Coast Guard prefers not having andirect path overboard. I did install a Y valve at the holding tankdischarge. I can pump-out through the deck fitting, or, use themacerator pump to pump the tank overboard. > > I would not install new ports on your holding tank or a newthru-hull. Just more areas for leaks to develop and an unnecessaryhole in the hull.> > The electric head works well, but boy are they noisey. Everyone inthe harbor knows when you go!!> > My electric head also macerates as you flush, but I used amacerator pump for the overboard discharge because they were alotcheaper than the pumps designed for this purpose that do not macerate.> > Jay>
Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)
Hey Nhat,
everyone else has an opinion on this so I thought I’d throw mine in,
too. I agree with Brian that simpler is better. When I redid the head
in Bright Star, I decided on a brand new tank. The old one was very
tired and a bit small, and definitely had leaked from time to time. I
replaced the tank with a 15 Gal Todd (largest dimension stock tank I
could find for the space). One of the really nice features of the
Todd are that they have dip tube discharge, so all the
intake/discharge ports are on top of the tank. Dip Tubes mean nothing
stays sitting in the hose at the bottom of the tank, and Todd also
claims they can get more junk out of a tank. The other really, really
nice feature is that the tank has two discharges. On Bright Star, we
ran one (why did I say we? I did all the work) discharge straight up
to the deck fitting just as the old tank had. The other discharge
goes through a macerator pump, through a vented loop, down to the
overboard. Since the outlets are on top of the tank, the macerator
sits on top of the tank as well, which would make for easier, if
still smelly, maintenance. I eliminated a poorly-placed Y-valve, and
while I don’t have a direct-to-sea option for the head, from where I
live it takes so long to reach the discharge limit, it’s probably a
good thing.
Lance
Bright Star
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Nhat Khong”
<nhatkhong1@…> wrote:
Hello,
I need to add a macerator to the holding tank on my boat so that I
can
pump out into the ocean when need be. Can someone help me answer
some
of these questions?
-
Should I attach a Y valve into the tank pump out hose and route
the
new extension to the macerator then overboard?
-
If not the Y valve from the holding tank, is it wise to drill a
new
hold into the holding tank? Is it difficult or is there already
fitting for this configuration? This was originally a Lake Michigan
boat.
-
How about instead of a new thru-hull for the macerator, routing
the
macerator out to the existing overboard thru-hull? Is that wise?
Why not?
-
From what I can read in the forum, upgrading the holding tank
size
sounds like a lot of work? Has anyone found an easy way to do this
for the Mull F36?
-
Electric toilet. Is this more headache or less?
All advice, suggestions, opinion is appreciated.
Thanks,
-Nhat