Posted by Brian Guptil (sailordude@…>)
Anchoring is debated as adamantly as are politics and religion. But it is an engineering problem with an engineering solution. Please be very careful with short scoping because you use chain. Anchors, plow, Bruce, danforth and there like work on angles. 7:1 gives about 8 degrees of angle on the shank when the rode is strait. I know, the chain with it’s catenary will reduce that angle. Sorry, that is a static calculation. Whey in a wind, we all know that boats swing in a lopsided figure eight pattern with higher loads on the outward swings. But seldom acknowledged is the effect of waves. As the boat is lifted in a wave, the pitching motion is up and aft and can generate a load many times the displacement of the vessel. In a sea, the dynamic loads will reduce the catenary to the point where it acts more like a steel rod then a shock absorber. A bridle can be used to reduce that, but I have yet to see one that is properly designed. Safe working for nylon is in the sub 20% stretch. So the line must be small enough to stretch under the expected conditions, but never stretch beyond the 20%. So you need 100 ft of nylon to get 20 foot of shock absorbing. And avoid at all costs, the bridle being too short so that the chain comes up taught in the middle of a wave. So when you work it all out, some chain followed by nylon is what works best. Of course that is ignoring the issue or coral and other abrasive bottoms.
A PHD friend studied this issue. calculated the catenary on every like of chain and concluded that 110 ft chain followed my nylon worked best Under static loads the catenary provided a horizontal pull with 7:1 scope measured at the bow roller up to the common anchor rating of 40mph in protected waters.
OK, so you can cheat on this and I do all the time, but if conditions worsen, be ready. Remember, at 3:1 the angle at the anchor will prevent the flukes from even engaging in the bottom under load.
I have written an article on anchoring, not published, but will put it up on my web site that I am in the process of revising over the next few weeks.
Brian Guptil http://www.brigup.com206-818-3203 sailordude@…1735 112th Ave. N.E.Bellevue, WA. 98004-3706
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave_Benjamin
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 4:34 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: anchor chain
Whatever you do don’t put 300 feet of chain in a 30 footer. That’s way too much weight. Unless you plan to anchor in coral an all chain rode is generally unnecessary. The best setup is enough chain to cover 80% of your anchoring situations and the rest in the form of rope. Use HT chain to save some weight. You can use a smaller size and not sacrifice strength. When anchoring with chain you don’t use as much as you would with rope. Depending upon the bottom, wind, waves, and tidal considerations you can get by with a scope of 4:1 with chain, even less if you just making a lunch stop. So if you tend to anchor in 15 or 20 feet of water, a 100 feet of HT chain is adequate. You may wish to carry additional chain and a means of joining the 2 lengths but that additional chain should be carried somewhere near midships and low. I have a friend who is halfway through a circumnavigation and he is not a fan of the all chain rode concept. If it isn’t already there you’ll need a strong partition to prevent the chain from coming into contact with the mast. I think on our 39 we had 2 pieces of 3/4 ply tabbed to the hull providing protection. — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “awoksen5” <awoksen5@y…> wrote:> I am considering an all chain anchor rode for my F30. I am concerned > about space in the anchor locker, and about the effects of weight on > sailing performance. Has anyone used 300 ft of chain. If so, have > you noticed a significant effect on sailing?