I converted my 1995 Freedom 40/40 jib to a furler. Anyone interested in a complete camber spar–cheap?
Loren Lettick
Williwaw
Can you provide some information about converting to furler? Which furler, flexible or with extrusions, what size sail, UV protection, running back stays, etc?
Thank you,
Bob
Sailmon,
The conversion was not cheap. The existing jib was re-cut, hanks removed, foil installed with sunbrella sun cover. Harken Cruise Unit 2 installed at head stay, together with an arched track ahead of the forward hatch. Single sheet was run from a block on the track to another block about 20’ up the mast, then down to a fixed block where it turns to a clutch and winch at the cockpit. Sail area was slightly reduced and performance suffered only slightly, and only in light wind.
I did this, together with replacement of Harken Batt Cars on main (converted to Tides mast track and cars) to reduce stack height of the main, so I no longer need to climb the mast to secure the main sail. I will be 70 years old in a couple of months, so I went to the expense of “geezer-proofing” the boat that I love instead of selling her and moving to a smaller boat.
Loren Lettick
Williwaw
Thanks for sharing. I will be 64 in April and as we approach retirement, I go through some of the same deliberations. I’ve been thinking of replacing the camber spar jib with a code 0 on a flexible furler. Wasn’t sure what to do about the main - as I also do not want to be going up the 3 mast steps and holding on with a leg while I attach the main halyard. I was looking at a furling boom, but the prices are exorbitant. I will have to look into your solution. Wondering how you raise the main? Do you use an electric winch or hand-held electric driver? I could pull the main all the way up by hand on our Tanzer 25, 7/8 of the way up by hand on our Freedom 30 and only 1/2 way up on our 38. Would be interested in hearing about any other modifications you have made that have been helpful.
Bob
Sailmon,
I sent a private e-mail re: the Tides system. Contact me if you didn’t receive it.
The F-40 comes standard with a Harken electric halyard winch. Hoisting and dousing are much smoother with the new system, but I still use the electric winch. Where would you mount a Code 0 without interfering with the anchor locker, ground tackle and head stay?
Loren Lettick
Williwaw
Before I replaced the main sail track & slides, I was able to leave the main halyard attached when the main was lowered (I still do) and with a few feet of extra halyard, use a boat hook to snag it and carry to an attachment point a few feet aft, on the boom. Then snug up the halyard to avoid any halyard slap. Simply release from the boom before raising and the shackle never has to be unfastened.
Loren,
I don’t think I received a private email from you. Did you send to sailmonoh@gmail.com?
No anchor locker on the Mull 38. I was thinking about attaching tack to the anchor roller guide which is part of the stemhead fitting - forward of the headstay. The headstay and jib tack are also attached to this fitting. Another possible option - someone recently asked me why I didn’t attach the tack of the code 0 to the plate on the top of the bow pulpit where the gunmount spinnaker tube would attach if I had one. I have to look at the differences in loads between mounting the spinnaker tube and spinnaker pole to the top of the pulpit as compared to mounting an eye fitting that the code 0 tack would attach to. If it did work, I would avoid the headstay and the bow pulpit. Could make up for the slightly shorter hoist with a longer LP. Will update as I figure it out.