fixed port lights on F30

Archives
1

Posted by svbagatelle (rmasson@…>)

Hi folks,
I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the
conversation.
First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my
opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in advance
of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now have
a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit
above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I
have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the
dogs, one of which had broken.
So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using
it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I
remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted
advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I
need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or
anything? How much work is involved?
Advice would be appreciated.
BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard
with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn
winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing the
interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the
moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2
coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and
shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).
Paul Masson

2

Posted by Michel Capel (mike_c_f35ck@…>)

Paul:

I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a
boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine sealants
are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have glue
capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no matter
how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the
silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our portholes
leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at
least with me).

mike

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<rmasson@e…> wrote:

Hi folks,
I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the
conversation.
First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my
opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in
advance
of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now
have
a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit
above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I
have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the
dogs, one of which had broken.
So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using
it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I
remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted
advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I
need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or
anything? How much work is involved?
Advice would be appreciated.
BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard
with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn
winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing
the
interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the
moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2
coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and
shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).
Paul Masson

3

Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)

It’s my understanding that many non-silicone caulks can damage lexan and
plexiglass so if you have plastic ports they’re not recommended.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: “Michel Capel” <mike_c_f35ck@…>
To: <freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30

\

Paul:

I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a
boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine sealants
are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have glue
capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no matter
how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the
silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our portholes
leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at
least with me).

mike

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<rmasson@e…> wrote:

Hi folks,
I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the
conversation.
First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my
opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in
advance
of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now
have
a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit
above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I
have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the
dogs, one of which had broken.
So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using
it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I
remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted
advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I
need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or
anything? How much work is involved?
Advice would be appreciated.
BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard
with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn
winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing
the
interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the
moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2
coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and
shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).
Paul Masson

Yahoo! Groups Links

4

Posted by linsey johnson (linseyjohnson6@…>)



People use silicone the wrong way, they use it for a sealant, when they ought to be using it as gasket material, put in the sealing surface, snug it, let it cure, then tighten it up, polysulfide in it’s different forms works well, use 5200 and you may destroy a portlight trying to get it off.

----- Original Message -----
From: Michel Capel
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30
Paul:I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine sealants are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have glue capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no matter how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our portholes leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at least with me). mike— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle” <rmasson@e…> wrote:> > Hi folks,> I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the > conversation.> First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my > opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in advance > of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now have > a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit > above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I > have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the > dogs, one of which had broken.> So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using > it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I > remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted > advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I > need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or > anything? How much work is involved?> Advice would be appreciated.> BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard > with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn > winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing the > interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the > moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2 > coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and > shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).> Paul Masson

5

Posted by Lorman, Alvin J. (ajlorman@…>)

Alan is exactly right. Silicone is precisely what you should use for lexan and Plexiglas. GE Silicones has a very useful web site that lists dozens of structural silicones that work for glazing and have enough adhesive ability to keep large windows in place in office buildings. One GE silicone commonly used on boat port lights is called Silpruf.

Al Lorman

(Is this technical enough?)

-----Original Message-----From: Alan Kusinitz [mailto:akusinitz@…] Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:32 AMTo: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30It’s my understanding that many non-silicone caulks can damage lexan and plexiglass so if you have plastic ports they’re not recommended.Alan----- Original Message ----- From: “Michel Capel” <mike_c_f35ck@…>To: <freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com>Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AMSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30>>> Paul:>> I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a> boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine sealants> are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have glue> capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no matter> how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the> silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our portholes> leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at> least with me).>> mike>> — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”> <rmasson@e…> wrote:>>>> Hi folks,>> I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the>> conversation.>> First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my>> opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in> advance>> of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now> have>> a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit>> above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I>> have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the>> dogs, one of which had broken.>> So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using>> it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I>> remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted>> advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I>> need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or>> anything? How much work is involved?>> Advice would be appreciated.>> BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard>> with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn>> winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing> the>> interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the>> moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2>> coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and>> shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).>> Paul Masson>>>>>>> Yahoo! Groups Links>>>>>>>>> This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

6

Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)

3M also makes a 4000 UV sealant that is supposed to protect against
UV damage, as well as remaining flexible. It is recommended for Lexan
and ABS. I recently re-bedded my main salon hatch with this, and it
appeared to fix the corner leaks I had. We’ll see how it holds up
this summer.

Lance

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Lorman, Alvin J.”
<ajlorman@y…> wrote:

Alan is exactly right. Silicone is precisely what you should use
for
lexan and Plexiglas. GE Silicones has a very useful web site that
lists
dozens of structural silicones that work for glazing and have enough
adhesive ability to keep large windows in place in office buildings.
One GE silicone commonly used on boat port lights is called Silpruf.

Al Lorman

(Is this technical enough?)

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Kusinitz [mailto:akusinitz@y…]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:32 AM
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30

It’s my understanding that many non-silicone caulks can damage
lexan and

plexiglass so if you have plastic ports they’re not recommended.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: “Michel Capel” <mike_c_f35ck@y…>
To: <freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30

Paul:

I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a
boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine
sealants
are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have
glue
capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no
matter
how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the
silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our
portholes
leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at
least with me).

mike

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<rmasson@e…> wrote:

Hi folks,
I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the
conversation.
First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of
my
opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in
advance
of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now
have
a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit
above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I
have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the
dogs, one of which had broken.
So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of
using
it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I
remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted
advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that
all I
need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or
anything? How much work is involved?
Advice would be appreciated.
BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard
with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn
winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing
the
interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the
moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2
coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and
shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).
Paul Masson

Yahoo! Groups Links

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
click here

<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129dd9enp/M=298184.5639630.6699735.300117
6/

D=groups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1104852720/A=2434971/R=0/SIG=11eeoolb0/*h
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This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
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mail.

7

Posted by svbagatelle (rmasson@…>)

That’s right, and Bomar’s instructions for replacing the hatch lens
require using marine silicone caulk. I’m just not sure about the
side fixed port lights in the main cabin, whether replacing them
involves more than cleaning off the old sealant and reapplying. I
don’t want to remove them and find out that I need to wait 3 weeks
for a part …
Paul




— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Lorman, Alvin J.”
<ajlorman@y…> wrote:

Alan is exactly right. Silicone is precisely what you should use
for
lexan and Plexiglas. GE Silicones has a very useful web site that
lists
dozens of structural silicones that work for glazing and have
enough
adhesive ability to keep large windows in place in office
buildings.
One GE silicone commonly used on boat port lights is called
Silpruf.

Al Lorman

(Is this technical enough?)

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Kusinitz [mailto:akusinitz@y…]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:32 AM
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30

It’s my understanding that many non-silicone caulks can damage
lexan and

plexiglass so if you have plastic ports they’re not recommended.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: “Michel Capel” <mike_c_f35ck@y…>
To: <freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30

Paul:

I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a
boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine
sealants
are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have
glue
capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no
matter
how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the
silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our
portholes
leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone
(at
least with me).

mike

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<rmasson@e…> wrote:

Hi folks,
I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the
conversation.
First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of
my
opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in
advance
of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now
have
a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit
above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I
have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the
dogs, one of which had broken.
So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of
using
it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I
remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted
advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that
all I
need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or
anything? How much work is involved?
Advice would be appreciated.
BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the
hard
with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn
winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing
the
interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the
moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get
2
coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and
shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).
Paul Masson

Yahoo! Groups Links

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
click here

<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129dd9enp/M=298184.5639630.6699735.30011
76/

D=groups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1104852720/A=2434971/R=0/SIG=11eeoolb0/*
htt

p://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60185400>

<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?
M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=group
s/S=:HM/A=2434971/rand=783550417>

Yahoo! Groups Links

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they
are addressed. If you have received this email in error please
notify the system manager. This message contains confidential
information and is intended only for the individual named. If you
are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute
or copy this e-mail.

8

Posted by linsey johnson (linseyjohnson6@…>)



I used to live in a boatyard, was surprised to find there actually was a difference between marine and normal grade silicone.

----- Original Message -----
From: svbagatelle
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30
That’s right, and Bomar’s instructions for replacing the hatch lens require using marine silicone caulk. I’m just not sure about the side fixed port lights in the main cabin, whether replacing them involves more than cleaning off the old sealant and reapplying. I don’t want to remove them and find out that I need to wait 3 weeks for a part …Paul— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Lorman, Alvin J.” <ajlorman@y…> wrote:> Alan is exactly right. Silicone is precisely what you should use for> lexan and Plexiglas. GE Silicones has a very useful web site that lists> dozens of structural silicones that work for glazing and have enough> adhesive ability to keep large windows in place in office buildings.> One GE silicone commonly used on boat port lights is called Silpruf.> > Al Lorman> > (Is this technical enough?)> > -----Original Message-----> From: Alan Kusinitz [mailto:akusinitz@y…] > Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:32 AM> To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30> > > It’s my understanding that many non-silicone caulks can damage lexan and> > plexiglass so if you have plastic ports they’re not recommended.> Alan> ----- Original Message ----- > From: “Michel Capel” <mike_c_f35ck@y…>> To: <freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com>> Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AM> Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30> > > >> >> > Paul:> >> > I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a> > boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine sealants> > are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have glue> > capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no matter> > how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the> > silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our portholes> > leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at> > least with me).> >> > mike> >> > — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”> > <rmasson@e…> wrote:> >>> >> Hi folks,> >> I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the> >> conversation.> >> First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my> >> opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in> > advance> >> of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now> > have> >> a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit> >> above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I> >> have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the> >> dogs, one of which had broken.> >> So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using> >> it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I> >> remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted> >> advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I> >> need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or> >> anything? How much work is involved?> >> Advice would be appreciated.> >> BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard> >> with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn> >> winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing> > the> >> interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the> >> moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2> >> coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and> >> shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).> >> Paul Masson> >> >> >> >> >> >> > Yahoo! Groups Links> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > ADVERTISEMENT> click here> http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129dd9enp/M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/ D=groups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1104852720/A=2434971/R=0/SIG=11eeoolb0/*htt> p://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60185400> > > http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=group s/S=:HM/A=2434971/rand=783550417> > > _____ > > Yahoo! Groups Links> > > * To visit your group on the web, go to:> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freedomyachts2003/> > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:> freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com> <mailto:freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscrib> e> > > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of> Service http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ . > > > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

9

Posted by David G. Evans (dgevans@…>)

Paul,
You’ve hit on the tricky part - do the ports just come out and you cut new plexi and rebed the whole thing or do gremlins crawl out? We’re talking long thin pieces of aluminum here - will they bend as they are pried from the existing goop? The stainless steel screws - how many of them will leave threads in the aluminum once all is taken apart? Somebody must have done this - speak up, please! After all, there aren’t any Bomar parts to wait for - otherwise we could just go out and buy new ports.
dge

----- Original Message -----
From: svbagatelle
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30
That’s right, and Bomar’s instructions for replacing the hatch lens require using marine silicone caulk. I’m just not sure about the side fixed port lights in the main cabin, whether replacing them involves more than cleaning off the old sealant and reapplying. I don’t want to remove them and find out that I need to wait 3 weeks for a part …Paul— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Lorman, Alvin J.” <ajlorman@y…> wrote:> Alan is exactly right. Silicone is precisely what you should use for> lexan and Plexiglas. GE Silicones has a very useful web site that lists> dozens of structural silicones that work for glazing and have enough> adhesive ability to keep large windows in place in office buildings.> One GE silicone commonly used on boat port lights is called Silpruf.> > Al Lorman> > (Is this technical enough?)> > -----Original Message-----> From: Alan Kusinitz [mailto:akusinitz@y…] > Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:32 AM> To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30> > > It’s my understanding that many non-silicone caulks can damage lexan and> > plexiglass so if you have plastic ports they’re not recommended.> Alan> ----- Original Message ----- > From: “Michel Capel” <mike_c_f35ck@y…>> To: <freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com>> Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:19 AM> Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: fixed port lights on F30> > > >> >> > Paul:> >> > I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a> > boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine sealants> > are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have glue> > capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no matter> > how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the> > silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our portholes> > leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at> > least with me).> >> > mike> >> > — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”> > <rmasson@e…> wrote:> >>> >> Hi folks,> >> I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the> >> conversation.> >> First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of my> >> opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in> > advance> >> of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now> > have> >> a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit> >> above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I> >> have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the> >> dogs, one of which had broken.> >> So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of using> >> it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I> >> remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted> >> advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that all I> >> need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or> >> anything? How much work is involved?> >> Advice would be appreciated.> >> BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the hard> >> with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn> >> winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing> > the> >> interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the> >> moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get 2> >> coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and> >> shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).> >> Paul Masson> >> >> >> >> >> >> > Yahoo! Groups Links> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > ADVERTISEMENT> click here> http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129dd9enp/M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/ D=groups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1104852720/A=2434971/R=0/SIG=11eeoolb0/*htt> p://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60185400> > > http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=group s/S=:HM/A=2434971/rand=783550417> > > _____ > > Yahoo! Groups Links> > > * To visit your group on the web, go to:> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freedomyachts2003/> > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:> freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com> <mailto:freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscrib> e> > > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of> Service http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ . > > > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

10

Posted by tlynchlaw (pass@…>)

Beckson recommends Dow Corning 795 Silicone Building Sealant to
rebed their portlights.

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “Michel Capel”
<mike_c_f35ck@y…> wrote:

Paul:

I’m a bit late…but you’d better not use silicone sealant on a
boat! It doesn’t have enough glue capabilities. True marine
sealants
are most often single component polyurethanes, which does have
glue
capabilities. Smooth polyester always has a greasy surface, no
matter
how good you rinse with a solvent and this grease prevents the
silicone from bonding for ever. Why do you think all our
portholes
leak after 10-15 years… right, they probably used silicone (at
least with me).

mike

— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<rmasson@e…> wrote:

Hi folks,
I thought I would inject a technical question/comment into the
conversation.
First, many thanks to Al Lorman who gave me the dimensions of
my
opening forward hatch so I could get a lens cut in Canada in
advance
of returning to my boat in the Bahamas. The lens fit and I now
have
a 1/2 inch lens installed in my Bomar frame–it sticks up a bit
above the frame, but it is much stiffer (which is needed since I
have a solar vent installed in the middle). I also replaced the
dogs, one of which had broken.
So now I have some leftover black silicone and I thought of
using
it to recaulk the fixed ports in the cabin. However, before I
remove the inside frame (which is screwed to the hull), I wanted
advice from other people who have done this. Am I right that
all I
need is silicone caulk–I don’t need to buy a new gasket or
anything? How much work is involved?
Advice would be appreciated.
BTW, Bagatelle survived Frances and Jeanne in Abaco on the
hard
with virtually no damage and we went sailing yesterday in 20kn
winds. The other project that is keeping me busy is varnishing
the
interior teak. This is very time intensive (I remove all the
moldings, apply 3-4 coats of gloss to them; the doors/walls get
2
coats of gloss followed by 2 of satin), but it looks great (and
shouldn’t require maintenance, unlike the oiled wood).
Paul Masson