Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)
We’ve got “white” water marks on our teak
floors and galley – any suggestions?
Maybe just sand lightly and stain? If so anyone have
suggestion on a stain that would blend in?
Thanks
Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)
I have to refinish ours as well.
Suggestions?
Scott
Girlfriend
F-32 Hoyt
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ron barr
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:50 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Floor stains
\
We’ve
got “white” water marks on our teak floors and galley – any
suggestions?
Maybe
just sand lightly and stain? If so anyone have suggestion on a stain that would
blend in?
Thanks
Ron
Hoyt
F32
Newport
RI
\
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Posted by Fargo Rousseau (fargo_r@…>)
Let me weigh in briefly on worn and stained teak soles, recognizing that there are a thousand ways to approach every little task on a boat…a few of which really are good ideas. First off, I really love a beautiful teak and holly sole…a real one. They add a special grace to a boat. But I also love to have real solid footing (read, not slippery) down below then things get wet and wild. These two features can lead to conflicts of the soul…if you have deep feelings about these sorts of things. So, I put off doing anything about our half faded, stained, and worn sole. After our 4,000 mile tour of the east coast, and just before we sold our F30 to Rick Higgens, I discovered WATERLOX on an Internet site about a fellow who has made an art of salad bowls turning. His story and methods were
compelling…so I gave them a try. Our adaptation goes something like this:1. Clean and vacuum the sole carefully. Get rid of the sand, grid and most of the grime. 2. Plan to work on one area at a time…and count on developing your technique as you go along. Also be prepared to spend some time on your knees. Pads are nice.3. Assemble supplies: Waterlox, a Tung oil product from the old world (often found at better hardware stores…see: http://www.waterlox.com/ ), some 3M abrasive sponges (I went for the 180 grit version as I remember), and many absorbent clean rags/towels. I chose the low lust Waterlox as I remember.4. You might start in your least conspicuous compartment. 5. Pour on some Waterlox, enough to wet out the length of sole in the compartment, maybe three holly strips wide, being careful NOT to spill any on the other boards. Start working the
wet 3M sponge up and down the board, in the direction of the grain. Work deeply to and fro, deeply cleaning the wood, removing just a tiny bit of the upper layer, and watching the life come back into the wood. When you like the results, stop. Wipe off the wet boards, turning the rags often (which will get quite dirty), and finish up with a clean rag. Move on to the neighboring boards.6. Let this project dry a day or two, depending on temperature, and repeat.We were very happy with the results. The wood looked even, clean, but not so new and perfect as to be completely out of place in the boat. The surface still had some “tooth” left in it so it was not too slippery…though more so than our old faded and stained teak sole. The level of technique required is quite low…compared to perfect varnishing…and the surface can always be refreshed at a later date with the same treatment because there are
no adhesion issues with Tung oil (as compared to Urethane varnish). Maybe Rick will see this post and comment on how things look now. FargoEx F30 #12Ps. Did the same treatment on interior cabin sides and bulkheads…but used 280 or 320 grit pads. Wonderful results, also. Burnished most of the oil finish off after each pass…to leave a real, baby smooth, luster. Again, even, clean, and still showing enough age and charm to fit together in the boat.— On Fri, 7/18/08, Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…> wrote:From: Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…>Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Floor stainsTo: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comDate: Friday, July 18, 2008, 5:14 PM
I have to refinish ours as well. Suggestions? Scott Girlfriend F-32 Hoyt
Scott Forgey 21362 Summertrace Circle Boca Raton, FL 33428 561.445.5179 skype: sforgey1 “Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:FreedomOwne rsGroup@yahoogro ups.com] On
Behalf Of ron barr
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:50 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Floor stains
We’ve
got “white” water marks on our teak floors and galley – any
suggestions? Maybe
just sand lightly and stain? If so anyone have suggestion on a stain that would
blend in? Thanks Ron
Hoyt
F32 Newport
RI
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Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)
Brilliant advice.
I will give that a try. I see these beautiful, varnished
soles at the boat show and wonder what I am doing wrong. But I remember
my boat is for sailing, not sitting at the dock.
Thanks
I will let you know how it turns out.
Scott
f-32 Hoyt
Girlfriend
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Fargo Rousseau
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 6:33 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Floor stains
\
Let me weigh in briefly on worn and stained teak soles,
recognizing that there are a thousand ways to approach every little task on a
boat…a few of which really are good ideas.
First off, I really love a beautiful teak and holly sole…a real one.
They add a special grace to a boat. But I also love to have real solid
footing (read, not slippery) down below then things get wet and wild.
These two features can lead to conflicts of the soul…if you have deep
feelings about these sorts of things. So, I put off doing
anything about our half faded, stained, and worn sole.
After our 4,000 mile tour of the east coast, and just before we sold our F30
to Rick Higgens, I discovered WATERLOX on an Internet site about a fellow who
has made an art of salad bowls turning. His story and methods were
compelling…so I gave them a try. Our adaptation goes something like
this:
-
Clean and vacuum the sole carefully. Get rid of the sand, grid
and most of the grime. -
Plan to work on one area at a time…and count on developing your
technique as you go along. Also be prepared to spend some time on your
knees. Pads are nice. -
Assemble supplies: Waterlox, a Tung oil product from the old world
(often found at better hardware stores…see: http://www.waterlox.com/ ),
some 3M abrasive sponges (I went for the 180 grit version as I
remember), and many absorbent clean rags/towels. I chose
the low lust Waterlox as I remember. -
You might start in your least conspicuous compartment.
-
Pour on some Waterlox, enough to wet out the length of sole in the
compartment, maybe three holly strips wide, being careful NOT to spill any on
the other boards. Start working the wet 3M sponge up and down the
board, in the direction of the grain. Work deeply to and fro, deeply
cleaning the wood, removing just a tiny bit of the upper layer, and watching
the life come back into the wood. When you like the results, stop. Wipe
off the wet boards, turning the rags often (which will get quite dirty), and
finish up with a clean rag. Move on to the neighboring boards. -
Let this project dry a day or two, depending on temperature, and repeat.
We were very happy with the results. The wood looked even, clean, but
not so new and perfect as to be completely out of place in the boat.
The surface still had some “tooth” left in it so it was not too
slippery…though more so than our old faded and stained teak sole.
The level of technique required is quite low…compared to perfect
varnishing…and the surface can always be refreshed at a later date with
the same treatment because there are no adhesion issues with Tung oil (as
compared to Urethane varnish).
Maybe Rick will see this post and comment on how things look now.
Fargo
Ex F30 #12
Ps. Did the same treatment on interior cabin sides and bulkheads…but
used 280 or 320 grit pads. Wonderful results, also. Burnished most of the oil
finish off after each pass…to leave a real, baby smooth,
luster. Again, even, clean, and still showing enough age and
charm to fit together in the boat.
— On Fri, 7/18/08, Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…>
wrote:
From: Scott Forgey
<jsforgey@…>
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Floor stains
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, July 18, 2008, 5:14 PM
I have to refinish ours as well.
Suggestions?
Scott
Girlfriend
F-32 Hoyt
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the
universe, there is only what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:FreedomOwne rsGroup@yahoogro
ups.com] On Behalf Of ron barr
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:50 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Floor stains
\
We’ve
got “white” water marks on our teak floors and galley – any
suggestions?
Maybe
just sand lightly and stain? If so anyone have suggestion on a stain that
would blend in?
Thanks
Ron
Hoyt
F32
Newport
RI
\
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Posted by Rick Higgens (higgens@…>)
As with most everything Fargo did to his Freedom 30, before he sold
her to us, was well researched and carefully executed. His
refinishing is a good example and 1 1/2 years after his work, it still
looks great! You can bet when I have to do more maintenance, it will
be using his proven approach (which he documented for me way back
when). We love Freedoms wood appointments and finishes, and plan to
keep everything as close to stock as possible. My only question to
Fargo is “How did you forget that 1 piece of teak on the stern? Or
were you just leaving something for us to practice on to try and
imitate your brightwork techniques?” 
Rick
F30 #12 Nauti-Belle
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Fargo Rousseau
<fargo_r@…> wrote:
Let me weigh in briefly on worn and stained teak soles, recognizing
that there are a thousand ways to approach every little task on a
boat…a few of which really are good ideas.First off, I really love a beautiful teak and holly sole…a real
one. They add a special grace to a boat. But I also love to have
real solid footing (read, not slippery) down below then things get wet
and wild. These two features can lead to conflicts of the soul…if
you have deep feelings about these sorts of things. So, I put off
doing anything about our half faded, stained, and worn sole.After our 4,000 mile tour of the east coast, and just before we sold
our F30 to Rick Higgens, I discovered WATERLOX on an Internet site
about a fellow who has made an art of salad bowls turning. His story
and methods were compelling…so I gave them a try. Our adaptation
goes something like this:
Clean and vacuum the sole carefully. Get rid of the sand, grid
and most of the grime.Plan to work on one area at a time…and count on developing
your technique as you go along. Also be prepared to spend some time on
your knees. Pads are nice.Assemble supplies: Waterlox, a Tung oil product from the old
world (often found at better hardware stores…see:
http://www.waterlox.com/ ), some 3M abrasive sponges (I went for the
180 grit version as I remember), and many absorbent clean
rags/towels. I chose the low lust Waterlox as I remember.You might start in your least conspicuous compartment.
Pour on some Waterlox, enough to wet out the length of sole in
the compartment, maybe three holly strips wide, being careful NOT to
spill any on the other boards. Start working the wet 3M sponge up and
down the board, in the direction of the grain. Work deeply to and
fro, deeply cleaning the wood, removing just a tiny bit of the upper
layer, and watching the life come back into the wood. When you like
the results, stop. Wipe off the wet boards, turning the rags often
(which will get quite dirty), and finish up with a clean rag. Move on
to the neighboring boards.Let this project dry a day or two, depending on temperature, and
repeat.We were very happy with the results. The wood looked even, clean,
but not so new and perfect as to be completely out of place in the
boat. The surface still had some “tooth” left in it so it was not too
slippery…though more so than our old faded and stained teak sole.
The level of technique required is quite low…compared to perfect
varnishing…and the surface can always be refreshed at a later date
with the same treatment because there are no adhesion issues with Tung
oil (as compared to Urethane varnish).Maybe Rick will see this post and comment on how things look now.
Fargo
Ex F30 #12Ps. Did the same treatment on interior cabin sides and
bulkheads…but used 280 or 320 grit pads. Wonderful results, also.
Burnished most of the oil finish off after each pass…to leave a
real, baby smooth, luster. Again, even, clean, and still showing
enough age and charm to fit together in the boat.— On Fri, 7/18/08, Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…> wrote:
From: Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…>
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Floor stains
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, July 18, 2008, 5:14 PMI have to refinish ours as well.
Suggestions?
Scott
Girlfriend
F-32 Hoyt
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:FreedomOwne
rsGroup@yahoogro ups.com] On
Behalf Of ron barrSent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:50 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Floor stains
We’ve
got “white” water marks on our teak floors and galley – any
suggestions?Maybe
just sand lightly and stain? If so anyone have suggestion on a stain
that would
blend in?Thanks
Ron
Hoyt
F32Newport
RINo virus found in this incoming message.
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7/17/2008 6:08
PMNo virus found in this outgoing message.
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7/17/2008 6:08 PM
Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)
Thanks for the feedback guys---- I’ll try that out
when we’ve finished putting in the new windows (in the house!!)
Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)
I have to put new windows in the boat. I am still getting
leaks after a good rain.
I am starting to worry if I need to look at re-bedding the hand
rails or look for another source.
Any tips in identifying the source of other potential leaks
(other than the obvious)?
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ron barr
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 1:39 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Floor stains
\
Thanks
for the feedback guys---- I’ll try that out when we’ve finished
putting in the new windows (in the house!!)
Ron
Hoyt
F32
Newport
RI
\
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Posted by Barry Stellrecht (yak@…>)
Well, it is quite a bit of work, but I’ll give you a summary of what we’ve been
doing:
When we bought our F33, it had all new portlights & hatches, so they shouldn’t
be leaking…and I don’t think the portlights are, but the hatches are a story
for another day.
What we’ve done is take down the headliners so we can see what the bottom of the
deck looks like. In our case, the bedding has failed on enough of the holes
going through the deck that we’ve decided to re-bed them all, at least
overdrilling and filling the edges with thickened epoxy to seal them before
re-bedding, and fixing any other bad balsa core we find. So far, most of the
problems have been somewhere between dime sized around the bolt up to fist
sized, except for a big area around the port winch and rope clutches. (I
haven’t figured out exactly how big that one is yet!
I figure that 27-year-old caulk either has failed (on some hardware) or will
fail soon if stressed (on the rest of the hardware), so I might as well fix it
all now. And, yes, the hand rails have failed in some cases. In the head, the
two failed bolts rotted out three or four inch blobs of balsa. Elsewhere I’ve
had a couple bolts that had corroded off inside the deck, but I haven’t seen how
much damage the core got there yet.
There are two deck leaks that (probably) caused water to appear to be leaking
through portlights. I won’t be sure until we are done fixing them all, and
confirm a lack of leaks around the portlights.
Good luck finding your leaks,
Barry
P.S. If you have really bad leaks that rot out lots of core, tapping on the
deck like a surveyor does might find your soft spots and send you in the right
direction. In our case, only the biggest area (or most thoroughly rotten) was
found that way. Freedom puts a pretty thick top skin over the core so it
doesn’t feel very soft even when the core fails.
Scott Forgey wrote:
I am starting to worry if I need to look at re-bedding the hand rails or
look for another source.Any tips in identifying the source of other potential leaks (other than
the obvious)?
–
s/v Flutterby, Freedom 33 cat ketch (becoming a junk rig)