The mast wedge on my F25 is pretty beaten and abused. It is also about 3" short of extending completely around the mast, so I figure a new one is in order.
Does anyone know of a supplier or manufacturer who can supply new mast wedges for Freedoms?
What about Spartite? Has anyone had success using this on Freedoms, or is it designed for use on stayed masts?
I know there has been discussions along these lines on various threads in the past, but has anyone actually tried Spartite? If so, do you feel comfortable with the result?
I recall considerable discussion of Spartite, and othe rubber pou-in-place products on this site. Do a search, and you’ll find it.
R. Bush,
Spartite inmy opinion is an expensive product and if not put in properly you will not get your mast down if needed. Beleive me I have 2 masts that are glued in place now. The product is wayover priced and there are similar products on market if you are determined to go this direction that are just as good but more reasonable. Do your homework and check old posts. (especially Michaels) What ever you decide use all the release agent you can get your hands on cause once that stuff sets its very hard. Good luck Numbknots
I agree with numbknots as I’ve had to cut out one of my Spartite jobs. However, I can now pull the mast without any issues with my current Spartite job.
– Geoff
Hi Geoff
Looking at my masts I think they’re ‘glued in’. How did you cut through all that Spartite?
Brian Kerslake
F39 PHS ‘Paradox’
Portland Marina
Portland UK
I’m not a particularly “handy” guy. I’m sure there are other products out there that are better for less money, but I’m willing to pay some extra for a product that comes with idiot resistant instructions and all the bits-and-pieces you need to do the job rite.
The next question is: How do you get an unstayed mast to sit upright in a hole while the resin dries? In most boats I can see that the rigging should hold the mast where you want it on a colm day, but a Freedom isn’t most boats.
Hi,
Search this site for my posts about PU-rubber. Also check my photos on http://www.flickr.com/photos/alabama_queen/287929517/in/set-72057594118441897/ to see how I’ve cast mast wedges, if you like.
I drilled holes through the material and then used a hack saw blade to makes cuts between the holes. The next time I carefully coated the stainless deck ring so that it wouldn’t bond to it.
I had my mast re-painted and and when they did that they cut the Spartite off of the mast. While I was upset when I first saw it, I’ve now found that it actually makes life much easier as I can pound the Spartite out from below and the mast just pops out. Likewise I drop the mast back in and then reinstall the Spartite ring by tapping it in place with a rubber mallet and then siliconing the joints. The key thing is to carefully mark the orientation of the wring relative to the mast.
– Geoff
If you want to replace the original wedge, you may want to contact warren River Boat Works. They stock a number of Freedom parts. As recently as 18 months ago, they told me they could get me a replacement polyurethane wedge. They did say I would have to trim and shape it myself - sounds like it comes in a rectangular cross section. Personally, I think I’d go with the spartite - with precautions noted above.
Hi all,
I had a new wedge cast by Ludowici engineering platics. Polyurethane shore hardness 75 same as the original. This was for the foremast and is working fine. Had a job to get the old one out and ended up drilling and cutting to release it. If I was doing the same job again I would use a hydraulic jack to press the wedge up from underneath, pressing at several points around the mast.
To make the wedge Ludiwici folded some aluminium plate to the profile taken from the old wedge and simply poured the polyurethane into the mold. Cost was about NZD190 as I recall.
Regards,
It seems as if the answer to one question just leads to another! If you build a Spartite wedge, and then seal it with silicone to make it watertight, don’t you end up with a mast that is “glued in”? I though one of the reasons to use Spartite was that it allowed you to easily remove the mast when necessary (provided you use enough vaseline when you pour the new wedge). My boat gets stored behind the house for the winter, so I need to be able to remove and replace the mast yearly.
Has anyone tried using Spartite in a two step process? I was thinking of cutting 4 partial and half height wedges from my original wedge to hold the mast in position. Then I would follow the Spartite instructions, but only pour about half of the new wedge. Once that had hardened I could then remove the pieces of the old wedge and fill the gap up to the top of the mast collar. This would only work if a second layer of Spartite would adhere to the first hardened layer.
Thank to everyone for all the replies to this posting.
I put vaseline all over my mast and inside mast partners and cast a PU resin wedge on top of a plywood disk with a hole in it for the mast. The plywood disk was bolted temporarily to the under side of the deck to keep the mast in the center of the hole while the resin cured. The plywood also provided the floor to cast the resin on. I put plasticine clay on the plywood to prevent the resin from leaking away while uncured. The wedges are tight around the mast but can be removed easily because they are not glued to either mast of partners. On top of the mast wedge I cast another layer of PU resin into the deck collar to provide a watertight seal. This PU ring was cast without vaseline on the mast, but with vaseline only in the deck collar. The ring is glued to the mast but not to the collar.
It’s rather easy to break the silicone seal. Just use a sharp blade to cut it away first. IMHO, water intrusion is far more objectionable than the time spent sealing/unsealing the ring.
– Geoff
One of the great attractions of the PU wedge was the “taper lock” effect when the flange is tightened down. This is so effective that it took several tons lifting force and still the mast would not come out and that was with the flange loosened. I kind of like the idea that the mast is that well secured to the boat and I suspect that is the intent of the design. To put a release agent between the wedge and mast or collar will reduce the effectiveness of the clamping arrangement and increase the risk of the mast falling out in a roll over (heaven forbid!). Would you put a lubricant on the mating surfaces of a taper lock coupling on your prop shaft? I could understand wanting a quick release for the mast if you were transiting an area which required frequent removal of the mast, but for ocean sailing I believe dry assembly is preferable.
I made a new ring using Spartite but I made a mold of a good ring in clay and poured the Spartite into the mold. I then just had to finish it on a sanding table to smooth it out and make adjustments. It is pricey but durable material.
Do you still have the mold? Which Freedom is it for?
I was recently shocked to discover that our main mast was loose in the partners. The mastic type seal ring had worked itself up and out on it’s own. I slacked the topping lift allowing the main boom to rest on the canopy, then took a line around the mast to the windlass and goosed it forward so that I could tap the mastic back down. Since then it’s stayed put, even through 54 knot sustained winds in Marsh Harbor a few days ago.
What the heck happened? Should I drill through the collar and put a few self taping screws into the mastic to keep it in place?
George
Michel - I have a freedom 28.4 or the british 30 catketch with wishbone booms. A yard in Brunswich Ga demasted her and in the process beat hell out of the original coller/wedge. However it can be pieced back together. The main is in four chunks and mizzen is missing a spot. Question - To save a buck with out compromising a good seat for the wedge, can the original wedges be worked on and repaired with any good success. The pieces are in good condition and fit together fine. Can they be glued back together and used and/or can spartite be used sparingly ?? to repair and renew the original wedges?? Or should I go with PMC - 790 or spartite all new. Thanks CMaxwell
Just to add a little to the conversation… our main mast had it’s mastic “wedge” actually pop up while we were in the Bahamas leaving the mast loose in the partners. I was alarmed but I was able to pull the mast forward with the windlass and simply tap it back down. I figured it lasted for these years so I was good to go until we got home.
I was wrong.
In some of the worst sailing conditions I’ve ever encountered out in the Gulfstream a few days ago, that thing popped up again. It made a very uncomfortable situation into a somewhat desperate one. Before we go offshore again I have to come up with something to stop that from happening again. It looks like we might run outside from St Augustine to Beaufort SC… ish. Looking for a window in 4 days or so.
George