While sailing last weekend my daughter (age 14) said the words you hate
to hear most when you are off shore…“Daddy, why is there so much
water in the bottom of the boat?” After the adrenalin subsided I
looked and got to the source of it.
The head was gushing water out. I put on the shower sump, which
handled it but I am not sure how the water is comming up. Has anyone
dealt with this?
Is it the Groco toilet joker valve? Something else broken? Any
suggestions would be appriciated.
While sailing last weekend my daughter (age 14) said the words you
hate
to hear most when you are off shore…“Daddy, why is there so much
water in the bottom of the boat?” After the adrenalin subsided I
looked and got to the source of it.
The head was gushing water out. I put on the shower sump, which
handled it but I am not sure how the water is comming up. Has
anyone
dealt with this?
Is it the Groco toilet joker valve? Something else broken? Any
suggestions would be appriciated.
Posted by svfantasy@… (svfantasy@…>)
Scott,
You didn’t say where the water was coming from. Was the toilet bowel overflowing? How is it plumbed? Does the toilet discharge directly into a holding tank, or, did you have it valved overboard? If you had it valved to overboard, do you have an anti-siphon valve looped into the discharge? If so, the anti-syphon valve may be bad causing the head to syphon seawater in from the thru-hull. This can happen easily when heeled over on the side the head is installed. If no anti-syphon valve is installed, INSTALL one! Very important. Also, you need an anti-syphon valve in the seawater intake to the head for the same reason. Check these anti-syphon valves!
Jay
F-40 CK
SF Bay
Lots of possibities, but the same thing happened to me. In that case
it was a joker valve stuck open so that when the boat healed to port
with a full waste tank it all poured back into the bowl, overflowed
into the bilge. UGH.
The immediate problem was the joker valve, but the ultimate problem
was that the waste line led from a port-side bowl to a port side
entry into the waste tank! It should have crossed. I fixed it easily.
While sailing last weekend my daughter (age 14) said the words you
hate
to hear most when you are off shore…“Daddy, why is there so much
water in the bottom of the boat?” After the adrenalin subsided I
looked and got to the source of it.
The head was gushing water out. I put on the shower sump, which
handled it but I am not sure how the water is comming up. Has
anyone
dealt with this?
Is it the Groco toilet joker valve? Something else broken? Any
suggestions would be appriciated.
Posted by Paul McFadden (pwhitmac@…>)
In my Hoyt32 so as to eliminate the possibility of taking on water as the result of ANY head plumbing problem, I installed a 4" Beckson screw-in deck plate just above the head. This enabled me to access (reach) both the inlet and outlet seacocks for the head from inside the head instead of trying to get at them through all the things most people stow in their cockpit locker. I never sail with them open. PWM sforgey <jsforgey@…> wrote: While sailing
last weekend my daughter (age 14) said the words you hate to hear most when you are off shore…“Daddy, why is there so much water in the bottom of the boat?” After the adrenalin subsided I looked and got to the source of it.The head was gushing water out. I put on the shower sump, which handled it but I am not sure how the water is comming up. Has anyone dealt with this?Is it the Groco toilet joker valve? Something else broken? Any suggestions would be appriciated.ScottGirlfriendF-32 Hoyt #81
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
The head was gushing water out. I put on the shower sump, which
handled it but I am not sure how the water is comming up. Has
anyone
dealt with this?
Is it the Groco toilet joker valve? Something else broken? Any
suggestions would be appriciated.
If its still got the orginal Groco head, it needs a re-build kit in
the pump. Mine eats these kits like popcorn. I seem to install one
almost every year or two.
There’s a flapper valve that goes bad, they are poorly made, they
don’t last well at all. My guess is it’s the rectangular one with the
2 flaps, the one that mounts vertically in the pump. It is made of
some sort of translucent plastic or silicone rubber. Still, with a
new one of these flappers in there and the flush handle set to “dry
bowl” you should be able to sail in any conditions without an
overflow. When that stupid $%&*! flapper lets go you will get an
overflow, usually on starboard tack (unless you close the thru hull.)
It’s true: Buy a few of these kits and only a bit more money would
get you a new, better head (though I haven’t taken my own advice yet.)
I also installed a screw-out inspection port behind the head to make
it far easier to get to the thru hulls. That’s an easy project worth
doing.
I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and without much engineering”) apart and the flapper valve was indeed the culprit.
Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh. Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a new one at $88?
Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a real head…any suggestions for a model that actually works?
I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and without much engineering”) apart and the flapper valve was indeed the culprit.
Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh. Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a new one at $88?
Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a real head…any suggestions for a model that actually works?
Scott
Girlfriend
F 32 #81
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Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
Best head ? Lavac, no moving parts, if you can stomach the price. Raritan for value. Lots of little bits. If it flooded you boat, check blockage at anti syphon valves ( inlet hose and outlet hose. ) at to of U.jsforgey@… wrote: Thanks. I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and without much engineering”) apart and
the flapper valve was indeed the culprit. Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh. Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a new one at $88? Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a real head…any suggestions for a model that actually works? Scott Girlfriend F 32 #81
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers.
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
Whatever the material that’s used for the flat rubber plate with the
two flappers, it’s NOT silicone rubber. Silicone rubber, or neoprene
rubber, would probably last the life of the boat. The stuff Groco
uses must be some form of natural rubber, that with luck, lasts a
season. Herm
\
The head was gushing water out. I put on the shower sump, which
handled it but I am not sure how the water is comming up. Has
anyone
dealt with this?
Is it the Groco toilet joker valve? Something else broken? Any
suggestions would be appriciated.
If its still got the orginal Groco head, it needs a re-build kit in
the pump. Mine eats these kits like popcorn. I seem to install one
almost every year or two.
There’s a flapper valve that goes bad, they are poorly made, they
don’t last well at all. My guess is it’s the rectangular one with the
2 flaps, the one that mounts vertically in the pump. It is made of
some sort of translucent plastic or silicone rubber. Still, with a
new one of these flappers in there and the flush handle set to “dry
bowl” you should be able to sail in any conditions without an
overflow. When that stupid $%&*! flapper lets go you will get an
overflow, usually on starboard tack (unless you close the thru hull.)
It’s true: Buy a few of these kits and only a bit more money would
get you a new, better head (though I haven’t taken my own advice yet.)
I also installed a screw-out inspection port behind the head to make
it far easier to get to the thru hulls. That’s an easy project worth
doing.
“Stomach the price?”
Lavac’s are pretty reasonable to purchase. Less than $300 for the
basic model at Defender. I’d buy soon from Defender since St
Brendan’s Isle is taking over as the new US distributor and their web
prices are outlandish. Lavac’s require less maintenance and you don’t
have to buy an expensive rebuild kit every few years.
I’d argue that the Lavac is the least expensive head to own.
Lavac, no moving parts, if you can stomach the price.
Raritan for value. Lots of little bits.
If it flooded you boat, check blockage at anti syphon valves (
inlet hose and outlet hose. ) at to of U.
jsforgey@… wrote:
Thanks.
I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and
without much engineering”) apart and the flapper valve was indeed the
culprit.
Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at
where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh.
Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a
new one at $88?
Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a
real head…any suggestions for a model that actually works?
Scott
Girlfriend
F 32 #81
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to
Yahoo! Answers.
Posted by Edward Reiss (ereiss@…>)
how much modification is necessary to get the Lavac to fit in the base screw holes that the Groco was in? Assuming that there is no correlation between the base screws how big a job is it?thanksEd Reiss
Being Thereout of Marion, MAOn 12/2/06, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@…> wrote:
“Stomach the price?”
Lavac’s are pretty reasonable to purchase. Less than $300 for the
basic model at Defender. I’d buy soon from Defender since St
Brendan’s Isle is taking over as the new US distributor and their web
prices are outlandish. Lavac’s require less maintenance and you don’t
have to buy an expensive rebuild kit every few years.
I’d argue that the Lavac is the least expensive head to own.
Lavac, no moving parts, if you can stomach the price.
Raritan for value. Lots of little bits.
If it flooded you boat, check blockage at anti syphon valves (
inlet hose and outlet hose. ) at to of U.
jsforgey@… wrote:
Thanks.
I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and
without much engineering”) apart and the flapper valve was indeed the
culprit.
Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at
where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh.
Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a
new one at $88?
Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a
real head…any suggestions for a model that actually works?
Scott
Girlfriend
F 32 #81
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to
Yahoo! Answers.
Posted by andre laviolette (andrelaviolette@…>)
If you can get a Lavac for 300 $, go for it. It will end our often recurring head problems. I was quoted almost twice that price and I just happened to have the right Henderson bilge pump that is also needed. I driled a couple of new holes for the head I replaced, not difficult.Edward Reiss <ereiss@…> wrote: how much modification is necessary to get the Lavac to fit in the base screw holes that the Groco was in? Assuming that there is no correlation between the base screws
how big a job is it?thanksEd ReissBeing Thereout of Marion, MA On 12/2/06, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> wrote: "Stomach the price?"Lavac’s are pretty reasonable to purchase. Less than $300 for the basic model at Defender. I’d buy soon from Defender since St Brendan’s Isle is taking over as the new US distributor and their web prices are outlandish. Lavac’s require less maintenance and you don’t have to buy an expensive rebuild kit every few years.I’d argue that the Lavac is the least expensive head to own.— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, andre laviolette <andrelaviolette@…> wrote:>> Best head ?> > Lavac, no moving parts, if you can stomach the price. > Raritan for value. Lots of little bits.> If it flooded you boat, check blockage at anti syphon valves ( inlet hose and outlet hose. ) at to of U.> > jsforgey@… wrote:> Thanks.> > > I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and without much engineering”) apart and the flapper valve was indeed the culprit.> > Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh. Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a new one at $88?> > Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a real
head…any suggestions for a model that actually works?> > > Scott> Girlfriend> F 32 #81> > > > > > > ---------------------------------> Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers.>
All new Yahoo! Mail Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.
If anyone buys a Popular model I have some spares that aren’t
compatible with the Zenith that I bought for our new boat.
Right now Defender is blowing out their inventory of Lavac’s. The
Zenith is 327 and the Popular is 293. I would recommend the Zenith
since the price difference is minimal.
I would suggest buying your spares kit from Defender now because it’s
apparent SBI is going to gouge the American market. I can’t believe
that they were chosen to be the US distributor. The former owners of
SBI kept prices pretty reasonable.
Blake’s market share in the US is about to evaporate. They’ve made a
stupid decision not to work with Defender. They should have
terminated their relationship with SBI and had Defender keep selling
their product. SBI’s prices are just too high. I would have bought
something other than a Lavac if I didn’t have an account with
Defender.
If you can get a Lavac for 300 $, go for it. It will end our often
recurring head problems. I was quoted almost twice that price and I
just happened to have the right Henderson bilge pump that is also
needed.
I driled a couple of new holes for the head I replaced, not
difficult.
Edward Reiss <ereiss@…> wrote:
how much modification is necessary to get the Lavac to
fit in the base screw holes that the Groco was in? Assuming that
there is no correlation between the base screws how big a job is it?
thanks
Ed Reiss
Being There
out of Marion, MA
On 12/2/06, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@…>
wrote: “Stomach the price?”
Lavac’s are pretty reasonable to purchase. Less than $300 for the
basic model at Defender. I’d buy soon from Defender since St
Brendan’s Isle is taking over as the new US distributor and their
web
prices are outlandish. Lavac’s require less maintenance and you
don’t
have to buy an expensive rebuild kit every few years.
I’d argue that the Lavac is the least expensive head to own.
Lavac, no moving parts, if you can stomach the price.
Raritan for value. Lots of little bits.
If it flooded you boat, check blockage at anti syphon valves (
inlet hose and outlet hose. ) at to of U.
jsforgey@ wrote:
Thanks.
I took the Groco (seemingly a Greek word for “made cheaply and
without much engineering”) apart and the flapper valve was indeed
the
culprit.
Then I put it together and the pump plastic is now gushing at
where the bottom pipe attaches to it, sealing the joker valve. Ugh.
Can the plastic be repaired with fiberglass, or is it time to get a
new one at $88?
Lastly, I am deeply considering chucking the thing and buying a
real head…any suggestions for a model that actually works?
Scott
Girlfriend
F 32 #81
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go
to
Yahoo! Answers.
All new Yahoo! Mail
Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.