Heeling A Freedom

[macks011]

Posted by macks011 (macks02@…>)

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[Borelmfg]

Posted by Borelmfg (borelmfg@…>)

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the 900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van

----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom


Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners (belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including: inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light, with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna. Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’ below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’. Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the bridge.Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the fore stay attachment point.Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3 part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer, clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the bow completed the rig.I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of heel.On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900 lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15 degrees.The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase. We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not accurate…

[George_Huffman]

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

Good job! Way to brain your way through a problem. And yes…
operative word in the phrase “tide prediction” is “prediction”. Often
conditions such as wind speed and direction can be huge players in the
tide game, making predictions way off.

Congratulations again and thanks for a good story.

George


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[Bob1]

Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)

You should go into business! There is a great article on the same subject in
Cruising World a couple of issue back about a guy that does it as a business to
get those sticks under a bridge.

Bob

[George_Huffman]

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Here is a link to a thread in a sailing forum where some guys do a radical trick on a regular basis to get a tall mast under a short bridge. It’s easier than posting the pics here.Link to Thread in Forum Was that article about the railroad bridge on the Okeechobee? There is a crew running out of Indiantown that regularly helps boats get under that bridge and I’ve seen them in action a couple times. George

[Thomas_Wales]

Posted by Thomas Wales (twales@…>)

Great link and great pictures. What a great set of halyards…
I’m more familiar with the halyard on the skiff technique, having
used it more than once after going aground. I don’t think it puts
any more stress than a good blow. I have done it on two of my boats
so far with no apparent adverse effects.
Thanks again.
TW



At 04:56 PM 4/22/2008, you wrote:

Here is a link to a thread in a sailing forum where some guys do a
radical trick on a regular basis to get a tall mast under a short
bridge. It’s easier than posting the pics here.

<http://renegade-cruisers.net/bb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11134&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd\
=a&hilit=do+your+balls+hang+low>Link
to Thread in Forum

Was that article about the railroad bridge on the Okeechobee? There
is a crew running out of Indiantown that regularly helps boats get
under that bridge and I’ve seen them in action a couple times.

George

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[sward1]

Posted by Sward (swardfullsail@…>)
Great story. A couple of years ago, I came across Lake Okachobee in Florida from the west coast to the east coast. There is a railroad bridge on the east coast side that is only 48 feet. The F32’s are 48’ plus antenna’s etc. There is a guy in that area that for $150.00, will come out to “tip” your boat so you can get under. There was one other boat before me that was about 56’ and it was so great to watch the process before he did mine. He just used 55 gallon drums. He ran a line up the mast with a dead weight on the end so that when the weight hit the water line, it was healed enough. Anyway, he put 55 gallon drums on the deck, used a pump that he had in his boat to pump water into them until he had the required heal. He was “hiptowed” to your boat and drove it through. On the other side, he pulled the plug on the 55 gallon drums, let the water run out and was off. It took about a half hour. Very
fun!!macks011 <macks02@…> wrote: Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners (belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were issued for a five foot reduction in bridge
clearance.I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including: inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light, with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna. Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’ below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’. Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the bridge.Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the mast for as much
strain as needed. I opted not to use the main halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the fore stay attachment point.Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3 part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer, clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the bow completed the rig.I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of heel.On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900 lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15 degrees.The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase. We got to the bridge exactly at the
time predicted. All indicators were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not accurate…“Life is a Reach, then you Jibe” SWARD

[macks011]

Posted by macks011 (macks02@…>)

The load was at the end of the boom and the deck load was at the
beamiest part of the boat. What surprised me was how much load was
needed to achieve a 15 degree heel. The real problem was the gut
check required to drive the boat forward. I needed 2 knots to
maintain steerage way. The thought of hitting at that speed still
gives me nightmares.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage
and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls
and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the
bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to
Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits
were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons
including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting
to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the
mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-
stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor
light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio
antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me
5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under
the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next
considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig
the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing
the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above
the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created
a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove
from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back
down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block.
Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck
organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and
Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on
the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below
and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely
made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75
for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and
began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the
figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent
in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew
the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the
degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method
of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon
phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All
indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and
still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[Borelmfg]

Posted by Borelmfg (borelmfg@…>)

Well, a rough cal would indicate 16,000 ft-lbs. It is too bad most of Gary Mulls original design cals were lost. Would be interesting to compare design to actual test.

Regards,

van

----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Heeling A Freedom


The load was at the end of the boom and the deck load was at the beamiest part of the boat. What surprised me was how much load was needed to achieve a 15 degree heel. The real problem was the gut check required to drive the boat forward. I needed 2 knots to maintain steerage way. The thought of hitting at that speed still gives me nightmares.— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…> wrote:>> Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the 900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?> > > Regards,> > van> ----- Original Message ----- > From: macks011 > To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM> Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom> > > > > Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and > bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and > a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.> > Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge > and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners > (belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were > issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.> > I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including: > inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to > disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as > deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.> > My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light, > with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna. > Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’ > below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’. > Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the > bridge.> > Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations > were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the > boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much > strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the > mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main > halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the > fore stay attachment point.> > Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3 > part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a > block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from > the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down > to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now > I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer, > clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out > by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the > bow completed the rig.> > I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and > lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a > dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for > each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After > loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of > heel.> > On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag > with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began > loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900 > lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15 > degrees.> > The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring > in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in > half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the > height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of > heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of > measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide > prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase. > We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators > were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the > bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we > just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not > accurate.> > .>

[sgaber]

Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)

Wonder if I could try that with a deck-stepped mast like mine?

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- Sward <swardfullsail@…> wrote:

Great story. A couple of years ago, I came across Lake Okachobee in Florida
from the west coast to the east coast. There is a railroad bridge on the east
coast side that is only 48 feet. The F32’s are 48’ plus antenna’s etc. There
is a guy in that area that for $150.00, will come out to “tip” your boat so you
can get under. There was one other boat before me that was about 56’ and it was
so great to watch the process before he did mine. He just used 55 gallon drums.
He ran a line up the mast with a dead weight on the end so that when the weight
hit the water line, it was healed enough. Anyway, he put 55 gallon drums on the
deck, used a pump that he had in his boat to pump water into them until he had
the required heal. He was “hiptowed” to your boat and drove it through. On the
other side, he pulled the plug on the 55 gallon drums, let the water run out and
was off. It took about a half hour. Very fun!!

macks011 <macks02@…> wrote:

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

“Life is a Reach, then you Jibe”

SWARD

–

[Borelmfg]

Posted by Borelmfg (borelmfg@…>)

Have one other question. Did you happen to notice how much mast bend there was with this load?

Regards,

van

----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Heeling A Freedom


The load was at the end of the boom and the deck load was at the beamiest part of the boat. What surprised me was how much load was needed to achieve a 15 degree heel. The real problem was the gut check required to drive the boat forward. I needed 2 knots to maintain steerage way. The thought of hitting at that speed still gives me nightmares.— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…> wrote:>> Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the 900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?> > > Regards,> > van> ----- Original Message ----- > From: macks011 > To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM> Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom> > > > > Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and > bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and > a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.> > Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge > and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners > (belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were > issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.> > I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including: > inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to > disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as > deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.> > My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light, > with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna. > Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’ > below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’. > Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the > bridge.> > Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations > were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the > boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much > strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the > mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main > halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the > fore stay attachment point.> > Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3 > part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a > block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from > the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down > to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now > I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer, > clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out > by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the > bow completed the rig.> > I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and > lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a > dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for > each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After > loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of > heel.> > On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag > with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began > loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900 > lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15 > degrees.> > The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring > in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in > half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the > height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of > heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of > measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide > prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase. > We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators > were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the > bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we > just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not > accurate.> > .>

[macks011]

Posted by macks011 (macks02@…>)

The load was attached to a choker just above the jib stay attachment,
a point much thicker and stiffer than the section above it. There was
no apparent flexion.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…>
wrote:

Have one other question. Did you happen to notice how much mast
bend there was with this load?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Heeling A Freedom

The load was at the end of the boom and the deck load was at the
beamiest part of the boat. What surprised me was how much load
was
needed to achieve a 15 degree heel. The real problem was the gut
check required to drive the boat forward. I needed 2 knots to
maintain steerage way. The thought of hitting at that speed still
gives me nightmares.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was
the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter
storage
and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls
and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the
bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to
Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits
were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons
including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not
wanting
to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the
mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-
stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor
light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio
antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me
5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely
under
the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next
considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig
the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as
much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time
preparing
the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just
above
the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I
created
a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and
a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove
from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block,
back
down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker
block.
Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck
organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In
and
Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block
on
the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below
and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely
made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75
for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees
of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene
bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and
began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took
900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the
figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent
in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I
knew
the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the
degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method
of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a
tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon
phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All
indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and
still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was
not
accurate.

.

[Brian_Guptil]

Posted by Brian Guptil (sailordude@…>)

Just a Caution.

Freedom Carbon masts have been know to fail after their use in kedging off from a grounding. They also have failed when used to fly, flying or otherwise rigged masthead sails. ON the 44 with a mizzen Stay-Sail (single point lateral load) run from the masthead, requires running back-stays. Even so, I am reluctant to fly the stay-sail in winds approaching 15kn.

I hope you consult an engineer with un-stayed carbon mast experience very early in the development process.

Brian



On 4/23/08 9:14 AM, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…> wrote:

\

Have one other question. Did you happen to notice how much mast bend there was with this load?

Regards,

van

----- Original Message -----

From: macks011 mailto:macks02@...

To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 4:15 PM

Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Heeling A Freedom

The load was at the end of the boom and the deck load was at the
beamiest part of the boat. What surprised me was how much load was
needed to achieve a 15 degree heel. The real problem was the gut
check required to drive the boat forward. I needed 2 knots to
maintain steerage way. The thought of hitting at that speed still
gives me nightmares.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com , “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage
and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls
and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the
bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to
Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits
were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons
including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting
to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the
mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-
stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor
light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio
antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me
5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under
the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next
considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig
the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing
the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above
the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created
a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove
from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back
down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block.
Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck
organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and
Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on
the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below
and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely
made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75
for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and
began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the
figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent
in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew
the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the
degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method
of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon
phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All
indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and
still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[Borelmfg]

Posted by Borelmfg (borelmfg@…>)

Confirms my experience sailing at 15 deg of heel. Not much bent (if any) up to the forestay attachment point, more bend above and at the tip. Must say you came up with a creative solution, to a complex problem. I don’t even think about going under bridges with less that 70’ clear.

regards,

van

----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 7:21 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Heeling A Freedom


The load was attached to a choker just above the jib stay attachment, a point much thicker and stiffer than the section above it. There was no apparent flexion.— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…> wrote:>> Have one other question. Did you happen to notice how much mast bend there was with this load? > > Regards,> > van> ----- Original Message ----- > From: macks011 > To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 4:15 PM> Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Heeling A Freedom> > > The load was at the end of the boom and the deck load was at the > beamiest part of the boat. What surprised me was how much load was > needed to achieve a 15 degree heel. The real problem was the gut > check required to drive the boat forward. I needed 2 knots to > maintain steerage way. The thought of hitting at that speed still > gives me nightmares.> > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@> > wrote:> >> > Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the > 900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?> > > > > > Regards,> > > > van> > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: macks011 > > To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM> > Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom> > > > > > > > > > Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage > and > > bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls > and > > a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.> > > > Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the > bridge > > and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to > Mariners > > (belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits > were > > issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.> > > > I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons > including: > > inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting > to > > disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the > mast as > > deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-> stepping.> > > > My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor > light, > > with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio > antenna. > > Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me > 5.8’ > > below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’. > > Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under > the > > bridge.> > > > Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next > considerations > > were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig > the > > boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much > > strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing > the > > mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main > > halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above > the > > fore stay attachment point.> > > > Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created > a 3 > > part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a > > block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove > from > > the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back > down > > to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. > Now > > I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck > organizer, > > clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and > Out > > by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on > the > > bow completed the rig.> > > > I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below > and > > lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely > made a > > dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 > for > > each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After > > loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of > > heel.> > > > On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag > > with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and > began > > loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900 > > lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15 > > degrees.> > > > The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the > figuring > > in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent > in > > half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew > the > > height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the > degree of > > heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method > of > > measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide > > prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon > phase. > > We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All > indicators > > were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the > > bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and > still we > > just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not > > accurate.> > > > .> >>

[Herman_and_Gail_Schi]

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

You ought to see the fun we have with “wind tides” present on Pamlico
and Albemarle sounds in NC. Nothing about them is predictable! When
the wind is NE the water sloshes southward, and the reverse when wind
is SW. Herm

At 04:19 PM 4/22/2008, you wrote:

Good job! Way to brain your way through a problem. And yes…
operative word in the phrase “tide prediction” is “prediction”. Often
conditions such as wind speed and direction can be huge players in the
tide game, making predictions way off.

Congratulations again and thanks for a good story.

George

— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
“Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To:

mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[michel.capel]

Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)

Mack,

Nice story; sorry about your VHF antenna. Did you know that in the
old days, iron men used the same trick to crank wooden warships on
their side to scrape and tar the hull? Only they did not use
sandbags, but they filled their lifeboats to the brim with seawater
and then lifted a couple of these boats with the lower yards of all
two or three masts.

michel

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “macks011” <macks02@…>
wrote:

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage
and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls
and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the
bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to
Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits
were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons
including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting
to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast
as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-
stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor
light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio
antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me
5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under
the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig
the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing
the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above
the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a
3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove
from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back
down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block.
Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck
organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and
Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on
the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below
and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made
a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75
for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and
began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the
figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew
the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree
of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon
phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All
indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and still
we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[Allen_McClung]

Posted by Allen McClung (amcclung@…>)

Herman,

I have my F-21 on Lake Kerr, and was wondering if I could ask you to
expound on sailing in the Pamlico. I’ve been thinking about
trailering my boat down your way and sailing to one of the islands,
like Portsmouth.

In case you don’t want to share the advice with folks from other
locals, my e-mail address is amcclung@…

Thanks,

Allen McClung




— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:

You ought to see the fun we have with “wind tides” present on
Pamlico
and Albemarle sounds in NC. Nothing about them is predictable!
When
the wind is NE the water sloshes southward, and the reverse when
wind
is SW. Herm

        At 04:19 PM 4/22/2008, you wrote:

Good job! Way to brain your way through a problem. And yes…
operative word in the phrase “tide prediction” is “prediction”.
Often
conditions such as wind speed and direction can be huge players in
the
tide game, making predictions way off.

Congratulations again and thanks for a good story.

George

— In
<mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Borelmfg” <borelmfg@>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was
the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To:
<mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter
storage and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls
and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the
bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to
Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits
were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons
including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not
wanting to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the
mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-
stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor
light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio
antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me
5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely
under the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next
considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig
the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time
preparing the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just
above the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I
created a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove
from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block,
back down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker
block. Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck
organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In
and Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block
on the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below
and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely
made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75
for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene
bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and
began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took
900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the
figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent
in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I
knew the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the
degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method
of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon
phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All
indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and
still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

[sward1]

Posted by Sward (swardfullsail@…>)
Herm, Where are you located in the Pamlica? I am traveling from Marathon, FL to Annapolis in my 32 and am 0ff Mile Marker 150 in Bond Creek visiting boating friends for a couple of days.Allen McClung <amcclung@…> wrote: Herman,I have my F-21 on Lake Kerr, and was wondering if I could ask you to expound on sailing in the Pamlico. I’ve been thinking about trailering my boat down your way and sailing to one of the islands, like Portsmouth.In case you
don’t want to share the advice with folks from other locals, my e-mail address is amcclung@insightbb.comThanks,Allen McClung— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller <hschiller2@…> wrote:>> You ought to see the fun we have with “wind tides” present on Pamlico > and Albemarle sounds in NC. Nothing about them is predictable! When > the wind is NE the water sloshes southward, and the reverse when wind > is SW. Herm> > At 04:19 PM 4/22/2008, you wrote:> > >Good job! Way to brain your way through a problem. And yes…> >operative word in the phrase “tide prediction” is “prediction”. Often> >conditions such as wind speed and direction can be huge players in the>

tide game, making predictions way off.> >> >Congratulations again and thanks for a good story.> >> >George> >> >— In > >mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, > >“Borelmfg” <borelmfg@>> >wrote:> > >> > > Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was the> >900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?> > >> > >> > > Regards,> > >> > > van> > > ----- Original Message -----> > > From: macks011> > > To: > > mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > >> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM> > > Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter storage and> > > bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls and> > > a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.> > >> > > Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the bridge> > > and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to Mariners> > > (belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits were> > > issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.> > >> > > I did not want to
remove the mast for a number of reasons including:> > > inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not wanting to> > > disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the mast as> > > deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-stepping.> > >> > > My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor light,> > > with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio antenna.> > > Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me 5.8’> > > below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.> > > Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely under the> > > bridge.> > >> > > Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next considerations> > > were how to load, how much to load, what to load
and how to rig the> > > boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much> > > strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time preparing the> > > mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main> > > halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just above the> > > fore stay attachment point.> > >> > > Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I created a 3> > > part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a> > > block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove from> > > the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block, back down> > > to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker block. Now> > > I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck organizer,> >
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In and Out> > > by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block on the> > > bow completed the rig.> > >> > > I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below and> > > lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely made a> > > dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75 for> > > each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After> > > loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of> > > heel.> > >> > > On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene bag> > > with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and began> > > loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took 900> > >
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15> > > degrees.> > >> > > The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the figuring> > > in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent in> > > half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I knew the> > > height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the degree of> > > heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method of> > > measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide> > > prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon phase.> > > We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All indicators> > > were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the> > > bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and
still we> > > just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not> > > accurate.> > >> > > .> > >> >> >>“Life is a Reach, then you Jibe” SWARD

[Herman_and_Gail_Schi]

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

I live in Fairfield Harbour which is about 8 miles Southeast of New
Bern (following the Neuse River downstream). My home and boat are on
Northwest Creek, about 1/2 mile up the creek from Northwest Creek
Marina. Herm

At 08:31 AM 4/27/2008, you wrote:

Herm,

Where are you located in the Pamlica? I am traveling from Marathon,
FL to Annapolis in my 32 and am 0ff Mile Marker 150 in Bond Creek
visiting boating friends for a couple of days.

Allen McClung <amcclung@…> wrote:

Herman,

I have my F-21 on Lake Kerr, and was wondering if I could ask you to
expound on sailing in the Pamlico. I’ve been thinking about
trailering my boat down your way and sailing to one of the islands,
like Portsmouth.

In case you don’t want to share the advice with folks from other
locals, my e-mail address is
mailto:amcclung%40insightbb.comamcclung@…

Thanks,

Allen McClung

— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:

You ought to see the fun we have with “wind tides” present on
Pamlico
and Albemarle sounds in NC. Nothing about them is predictable!
When
the wind is NE the water sloshes southward, and the reverse when
wind
is SW. Herm

At 04:19 PM 4/22/2008, you wrote:

Good job! Way to brain your way through a problem. And yes…
operative word in the phrase “tide prediction” is “prediction”.
Often
conditions such as wind speed and direction can be huge players in
the
tide game, making predictions way off.

Congratulations again and thanks for a good story.

George

— In
<mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGro
up@yahoogroups.com,

“Borelmfg” <borelmfg@>
wrote:

Interesting story! Can you tell us how far out on the boom was
the
900lbs? I assume the 300lbs on the deck was near max beam?

Regards,

van
----- Original Message -----
From: macks011
To:
<mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%
40yahoogroups.com>mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGro
up@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Heeling A Freedom

Last November. I brought my F36 to a DIY yard for winter
storage and
bottom work. The yards benefits were off set by distance, tolls
and
a 55’ fixed bridge. But, with a 6’ tide, still a net plus.

Come March, I discover that the DOT has begun re-decking the
bridge
and has hung a safety scaffold below. Checking the Notice to
Mariners
(belatedly) I find that the public notice was given and permits
were
issued for a five foot reduction in bridge clearance.

I did not want to remove the mast for a number of reasons
including:
inexperience of the yard in handling a Freedom mast, not
wanting to
disturb a perfect, non-leaking seal, not wanting to carry the
mast as
deck cargo to another yard, and the cost of removal and re-
stepping.

My best measurements showed a 55’ mast hgt. including anchor
light,
with all instrumentation removed except for the VHF radio
antenna.
Hitting the optimum tide at my target launch date would give me
5.8’
below Mean High Water and a calculated clearance of 55.8’.
Accordingly, I figured a 15 degree heel would see me safely
under the
bridge.

Having made the decision to heel the boat, the next
considerations
were how to load, how much to load, what to load and how to rig
the
boat. I wanted to deck load as much as possible and keep as much
strain off the mast as I could, while at the same time
preparing the
mast for as much strain as needed. I opted not to use the main
halyard but instead installed a choker around the mast just
above the
fore stay attachment point.

Using the blocks from my vang and the second reef line I
created a 3
part tackle by attaching a block with becket to the choker and a
block to the boom. The free end of the reef line was then rove
from
the out haul at the end of the boom up to the choker block,
back down
to the boom block and back up to the becket on the choker
block. Now
I had a crane with control lines that led through my deck
organizer,
clutches and to my winches; Up and Down by the reef line, In
and Out
by the main sheet and traveler. A preventer to a snatch block
on the
bow completed the rig.

I began loading by filling the 60 gal. potable water tank below
and
lashing a 55 gal drum to the deck and filling that. It barely
made a
dent, 3 degrees at best. I then decided on sand bags. At $1.75
for
each 50 lb. bag, they were cheap and easily jettisoned. After
loading 1200 lbs at the toe rail, I still had only 10 degrees of
heel.

On to plan B. I bought a 1 cubic yard bulk load polypropylene
bag
with a 3300 lb rating for $40.00 , attached it to the boom and
began
loading the individual sand bags into it. Ultimately, it took
900
lbs. on the boom and 300 lbs. on the deck to heel the F36 to 15
degrees.

The boat made it under the bridge, but barely. For all the
figuring
in the world and all the careful prep work, my VHF antenna bent
in
half acting as curb feeler on the underside of the bridge. I
knew the
height of my mast from an empirical measurement. I knew the
degree of
heel needed for a worst case scenario. I had an accurate method
of
measuring the heel. The only variable was the tide. I had a tide
prediction for the exact point I had to pass, including moon
phase.
We got to the bridge exactly at the time predicted. All
indicators
were good to go, slack water, calm seas, tidal indicator on the
bridge, known visible sand bar exposure at low tide etc. and
still we
just made it. It appears that the tidal range prediction was not
accurate.

.

“Life is a Reach, then you Jibe”

SWARD