hi freq antennas

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

Hi,

I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas.
I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was
part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install
that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and
counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide
books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of
a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently
installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we
arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have
to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out
there.

Thanks

George

Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)

Just use your backstay.

Oh, wait. No backstay. Oopps.

:>))

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- George Huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas.
I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was
part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install
that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and
counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide
books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of
a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently
installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we
arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have
to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out
there.

Thanks

George

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
On Fantasy, my F-40 CK, I use a long wire from the starboard rail at the mizzen mast which is permanently affixed near the top of the mizzen mast. Because of mast flexing I use a length of bungey cord at the rail to allow the mast to flex to leeward. Otherwise, the antenna would act as an upper stay and cause unwanted mast compression at a time the mast would probably not be in column. Goodbye mast! Yes, I need to replace the bungy cord when the sun takes its toll, but that is easy. The previous owner installed this antenna years ago, sailed to Mexico and back to SF Bay. I’ve sailed her this way offshore numerous times in very heavy weather - no problems.
On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 7:42 PM, <sgaber@…> wrote:




Just use your backstay.

Oh, wait. No backstay. Oopps.

:>))

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- George Huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas.
I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was
part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install
that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and
counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide
books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of
a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently
installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we
arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have
to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out
there.

Thanks

George






– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Ah… I think my two remaining brain cells are begining to kick in. I seem to remember this from before. Sounds like a great option Jay thanks. Do you happen to know the gauge of wire used and method of insulation at the mast head? I guess it might not matter if your masts are carbon, ours are aluminum. GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote: On Fantasy, my F-40 CK, I use a long wire from the starboard rail at the mizzen mast which is permanently affixed near the top of the mizzen mast. Because of mast flexing
I use a length of bungey cord at the rail to allow the mast to flex to leeward. Otherwise, the antenna would act as an upper stay and cause unwanted mast compression at a time the mast would probably not be in column. Goodbye mast! Yes, I need to replace the bungy cord when the sun takes its toll, but that is easy. The previous owner installed this antenna years ago, sailed to Mexico and back to SF Bay. I’ve sailed her this way offshore numerous times in very heavy weather - no problems. On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 7:42 PM, <sgaber@tampabay.rr.com> wrote: Just use your backstay. Oh, wait. No backstay. Oopps. :>)) Steve Gaber Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77 Oldsmar,
FL ---- George Huffman <thatboatguy2@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi, > > I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas. > I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was > part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install > that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m > wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and > counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide > books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of > a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently > installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we > arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have > to suffice but
I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out > there. > > Thanks > > George > – – Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area
You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
George,You must use insulators at both ends. I do not know the wire diameter. Also, as for the ground plane, Gordon West, the guru of marine SSB now recommends a copper strap to the one closest thru hull. Apparently, there is no need for laying miles of copper strapping in your bilge area.
On Mon, Apr 7, 2008 at 10:37 AM, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:




Ah… I think my two remaining brain cells are begining to kick in. I seem to remember this from before. Sounds like a great option Jay thanks. Do you happen to know the gauge of wire used and method of insulation at the mast head? I guess it might not matter if your masts are carbon, ours are aluminum.
GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote:
On Fantasy, my F-40 CK, I use a long wire from the starboard rail at the mizzen mast which is permanently affixed near the top of the mizzen mast. Because of mast flexing
I use a length of bungey cord at the rail to allow the mast to flex to leeward. Otherwise, the antenna would act as an upper stay and cause unwanted mast compression at a time the mast would probably not be in column. Goodbye mast! Yes, I need to replace the bungy cord when the sun takes its toll, but that is easy. The previous owner installed this antenna years ago, sailed to Mexico and back to SF Bay. I’ve sailed her this way offshore numerous times in very heavy weather - no problems.
On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 7:42 PM, <sgaber@…> wrote:
Just use your backstay. Oh, wait. No backstay. Oopps. :>)) Steve Gaber Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar,
FL ---- George Huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote: > Hi, > > I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas.

I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was > part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install > that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and > counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide > books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of
a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently > installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we > arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have
to suffice but
I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out > there. > > Thanks > > George > –
– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area
You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.


– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Yes,I have seen that here and there about Gordon West. I don’t always follow the conventional wisdom either but I go directly against the manufactures requirements… not so often. Right now ICOM is saying 100 square feet or equivalent. Just out of curiosity what radio are you running and what is your counterpoise arrangement? GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote: George,You must use insulators at both ends. I do not know the wire diameter. Also, as for the ground plane, Gordon West, the guru of
marine SSB now recommends a copper strap to the one closest thru hull. Apparently, there is no need for laying miles of copper strapping in your bilge area. On Mon, Apr 7, 2008 at 10:37 AM, george huffman <thatboatguy2@yahoo.com> wrote: Ah… I think my two remaining brain cells are begining to kick in. I seem to remember this from before. Sounds like a great option Jay thanks. Do you happen to know the gauge of wire used and method of insulation at the mast head? I guess it might not matter if your masts are carbon, ours are aluminum. GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@gmail.com> wrote: On Fantasy, my F-40 CK, I use a long wire from the starboard rail at the mizzen mast which is permanently affixed near the top of the mizzen mast. Because of mast flexing I use a length of bungey cord at the rail to allow the mast to flex to leeward. Otherwise, the antenna would act as an upper stay and cause unwanted mast compression at a time the mast would probably not be in column. Goodbye mast! Yes, I need to replace the bungy cord when the sun takes its toll, but that is easy. The previous owner installed this antenna years ago, sailed to Mexico and back to SF Bay. I’ve sailed her this way offshore numerous times in very heavy weather - no problems. On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 7:42 PM, <sgaber@tampabay.rr.com> wrote: Just use your backstay. Oh, wait. No backstay. Oopps. :>)) Steve Gaber Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77 Oldsmar, FL ---- George Huffman <thatboatguy2@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi, > > I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas. > I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was > part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install > that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m > wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and > counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide > books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of > a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently > installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we > arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have > to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out > there. > > Thanks > > George > – – Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. – Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area
You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
George,I have an Icom M700 Pro, and I would guess the previous owner put in less than 15 sq feet of copper. It is getting pretty corroded after about ten years, so I’m getting ready to pull it all out and follow Gordon West’s instructions. Several others have already and see no reduction in performance/DXing. Gordon is probably the most experienced marine and land based HAM, and has been installing systems about boats for many years. He knows what he is doing. Having less of a counterpoise will not harm your radio. Old wisdom says it will reduce your power output, but current wisdom goes counter to that. I can attest to West’s advice, the majority of copper in my installation was not being used due to broken connections because of corrosion. I was still making contacts in Australia and many other places. All the counterpoise I was using was about 4 sq ft right below the auto tuner.
On Mon, Apr 7, 2008 at 4:03 PM, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:




Yes,I have seen that here and there about Gordon West. I don’t always follow the conventional wisdom either but I go directly against the manufactures requirements… not so often. Right now ICOM is saying 100 square feet or equivalent. Just out of curiosity what radio are you running and what is your counterpoise arrangement?
GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote:
George,You must use insulators at both ends. I do not know the wire diameter. Also, as for the ground plane, Gordon West, the guru of
marine SSB now recommends a copper strap to the one closest thru hull. Apparently, there is no need for laying miles of copper strapping in your bilge area. On Mon, Apr 7, 2008 at 10:37 AM, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:
Ah… I think my two remaining brain cells are begining to kick in. I seem to remember this from before. Sounds like a great option Jay thanks. Do you happen to know the gauge of wire used and method of insulation at the mast head? I guess it might not matter if your masts are carbon, ours are aluminum.
GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote:
On Fantasy, my F-40 CK, I use a long wire from the starboard rail at the mizzen mast which is permanently affixed near the top of the mizzen mast. Because of mast flexing I use a length of bungey cord at the rail to allow the mast to flex to leeward. Otherwise, the antenna would act as an upper stay and cause unwanted mast compression at a time the mast would probably not be in column. Goodbye mast! Yes, I need to replace the bungy cord when the sun takes its toll, but that is easy. The previous owner installed this antenna years ago, sailed to Mexico and back to SF Bay. I’ve sailed her this way offshore numerous times in very heavy weather - no problems.
On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 7:42 PM, <sgaber@…> wrote:
Just use your backstay. Oh, wait. No backstay. Oopps. :>)) Steve Gaber Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL ---- George Huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote: > Hi, > > I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas.

I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was > part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install > that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and > counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide > books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of > a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently > installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we
arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have > to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out > there. > > Thanks > > George
– – Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area
You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.


– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)

George,

I’m far from a radio expert, but this is what I read:

An option I heard of often, is using one of the (stainless)
backstays as a short wave antenna. Put isolators in it and mount the
balun (?) at the top, with the connection wire going into the
masthead and then down through the mast. In that way you can always
use the antenna, where ever the backstay is positioned. Another
(electronically better solution, I understand), is to mount the
balun at the foot of the wire and have a removeable connection wire
to the receiver.

Another option, as fas as I know, would be a short, rigid (2’)
active short wave antenna with tuner. As far as I understand, these
modern antennas are better than the old isolated wire. You can mount
the active antenna on the masthead or on the aft rail. Perhaps even
halfway up against the front of the mizzen mast. I know this cannot
be done with aluminum masts (it hinders reception/transmission) but
perhaps a radio frequency expert could say it a CF mast will be a
hindrance too. I would be very interested in this answer too, also
with respect to VHF reception and transmission.

I take it that counterpoise is a term for electromagnetic ground? If
that’s correct then, as a ground plate, you can use special bronze
plates that you mount on the outside of the hull. They have a
special ‘puckered’ surface to maximize the area of bronze in contact
with water. They are about 6" x 2". On the inside, you connect your
groundwire to the plate.

Hope someone corrects me it I made an error in some of this.

Michel

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “George Huffman”
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio
antennas.
I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It
was
part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics
install
that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all.
I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and
counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide
books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use
of
a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently
installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we
arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to
have
to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used
out
there.

Thanks

George

Posted by Brian Guptil (sailordude@…>)

HF Antennas

We keep hearing “size matters”, and those sympathetic may say “size doesn’t matter.” Well in antennas “length matters,” epically if you are trying to operate without an antenna coupler. We are discussing modifications to a dipole antenna. This antenna is a 1/2 wavelength center fed configuration. At the 80 Meter band, that antenna is 40 meters long. As you change the frequency, the antenna becomes more (out of tune) and the SWR starts climbing, and at some point the transmitter will shut down, go into power limit mode or overheat the final amplifier’s). You can cheat this by having multiple length raiding elements, but this gets a little clumsy as you stretch 5, 10 and 20 Meters elements on both sides of the center insulator.

You can eliminate half the length of wire antenna by substituting the non-radiating side of the antenna with “earth.” If your antenna is near 1/4 wave length and the connection to earth is very robust, you probably will have a matched antenna. Now, if you are going to operate on other then “tuned length” you need to fool the transmitter into thinking it is feeding a 52 ohm resistive (matched) load and the antenna coupler comes into play. The coupler has a tunable inductor/capaciter combination filter that (effective) adds or in some cases, subtracts length to the antenna as far as the transmitter is concerned. On both the transmit and receive functions, an antenna less then 1/4 wave does not have the same ability to transfer RF energy to or from the outside world. The pseudo antenna length is actually, inside the antenna coupler BOX, not exposed to the sky.

On the receive side, there are two measures, signal strength and signal to noise ratio (s/n). Noise is made up of electrical interference external to the receiver, noise generated in the receiver, and atmospheric noise one hears between channels on the AM and FM radios etc, now thought to be echo’s from the Big Bang, so say scientists in radio astronomy. You want to amplify the signal, not the noise. Best done with good antenna rather then a short antenna with an amplifier.

S/V Cayenne has a coupler, stbd side hull adjacent to the mizzen, with an insulator feed thru to the deck. I can hang wire, vertically with flag halyards, or an inverted “L” shape, hoisted on the mizzen and then stretched across to the main, both using flag halyards and appropriate insulators. Ground plain is a 2 in wide copper strap run all the way around the inside of the hull at about a foot below the water line. Too bad, lightning took out the IC M-802.

The Best antenna I worked with (other then very long wires) was a 27ft fiberglass whip. It’s advantage was ease of matching (low Q, broad tuning range) to coupler. But on self-righting motor surf boats, DX’ing is not the purpose, and having a forgiving antenna/coupler combination was very important. Remember, a sailboat is a dynamic environment where the antenna proximity to the water changes as the boat rocks and roles.

Oh, and stainless is far from the best wire for an antenna. But then compromise is everywhere!!!

Brian




On 4/8/08 3:33 AM, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@…> wrote:

\

George,

I’m far from a radio expert, but this is what I read:

An option I heard of often, is using one of the (stainless)
backstays as a short wave antenna. Put isolators in it and mount the
balun (?) at the top, with the connection wire going into the
masthead and then down through the mast. In that way you can always
use the antenna, where ever the backstay is positioned. Another
(electronically better solution, I understand), is to mount the
balun at the foot of the wire and have a removeable connection wire
to the receiver.

Another option, as fas as I know, would be a short, rigid (2’)
active short wave antenna with tuner. As far as I understand, these
modern antennas are better than the old isolated wire. You can mount
the active antenna on the masthead or on the aft rail. Perhaps even
halfway up against the front of the mizzen mast. I know this cannot
be done with aluminum masts (it hinders reception/transmission) but
perhaps a radio frequency expert could say it a CF mast will be a
hindrance too. I would be very interested in this answer too, also
with respect to VHF reception and transmission.

I take it that counterpoise is a term for electromagnetic ground? If
that’s correct then, as a ground plate, you can use special bronze
plates that you mount on the outside of the hull. They have a
special ‘puckered’ surface to maximize the area of bronze in contact
with water. They are about 6" x 2". On the inside, you connect your
groundwire to the plate.

Hope someone corrects me it I made an error in some of this.

Michel

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com , “George Huffman”
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio
antennas.
I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It
was
part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics
install
that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all.
I’m
wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and
counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide
books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use
of
a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently
installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we
arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to
have
to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used
out
there.

Thanks

George

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
I’ve attempted to attach a scan of a line drawing from one of the books I’m reading on the topic. “Communications at Sea” by Mike Harris. Interesting that it’s clearly a Freedom Cat Ketch! :slight_smile: Looks like there is far from agreement on what’s best concerning the ground plane. I’m going to rig two radios in the near future. One is an ICOM 802 and that’s a paid job in which I must stick to the manufactures installation instructions. But on our boat I’ll experiment. The 802 is in Mandeville LA. and we are in Annapolis so maybe we will try and talk to one another! Also the 802 I’m setting up with a PacTor III modem and that should be interesting. I had everything mounted up before I left and when I fly back down in late May I’ll do all the wiring. If the attachment doesn’t work I’ll send a link next time. Thanks Steve,We are much alike you and I. My first cruising
boat was a Nimble 30 (double ender) I named Clovis Point! Hang in there… something always shakes loose for guys like us.GeorgeBrian Guptil <sailordude@…> wrote: HF Antennas We keep hearing “size matters”, and those sympathetic may say “size doesn’t matter.” Well in antennas “length matters,” epically if you are trying to operate without an antenna coupler. We are discussing modifications to a dipole
antenna. This antenna is a 1/2 wavelength center fed configuration. At the 80 Meter band, that antenna is 40 meters long. As you change the frequency, the antenna becomes more (out of tune) and the SWR starts climbing, and at some point the transmitter will shut down, go into power limit mode or overheat the final amplifier’s). You can cheat this by having multiple length raiding elements, but this gets a little clumsy as you stretch 5, 10 and 20 Meters elements on both sides of the center insulator. You can eliminate half the length of wire antenna by substituting the non-radiating side of the antenna with “earth.” If your antenna is near 1/4 wave length and the connection to earth is very robust, you probably will have a matched antenna. Now, if you are going to operate on other then “tuned length” you need to fool the transmitter into thinking it is feeding a 52 ohm resistive (matched) load and the antenna coupler comes
into play. The coupler has a tunable inductor/capaciter combination filter that (effective) adds or in some cases, subtracts length to the antenna as far as the transmitter is concerned. On both the transmit and receive functions, an antenna less then 1/4 wave does not have the same ability to transfer RF energy to or from the outside world. The pseudo antenna length is actually, inside the antenna coupler BOX, not exposed to the sky. On the receive side, there are two measures, signal strength and signal to noise ratio (s/n). Noise is made up of electrical interference external to the receiver, noise generated in the receiver, and atmospheric noise one hears between channels on the AM and FM radios etc, now thought to be echo’s from the Big Bang, so say scientists in radio astronomy. You want to amplify the signal, not the noise. Best done with good antenna rather then a short antenna with an amplifier. S/V
Cayenne has a coupler, stbd side hull adjacent to the mizzen, with an insulator feed thru to the deck. I can hang wire, vertically with flag halyards, or an inverted “L” shape, hoisted on the mizzen and then stretched across to the main, both using flag halyards and appropriate insulators. Ground plain is a 2 in wide copper strap run all the way around the inside of the hull at about a foot below the water line. Too bad, lightning took out the IC M-802. The Best antenna I worked with (other then very long wires) was a 27ft fiberglass whip. It’s advantage was ease of matching (low Q, broad tuning range) to coupler. But on self-righting motor surf boats, DX’ing is not the purpose, and having a forgiving antenna/coupler combination was very important. Remember, a sailboat is a dynamic environment where the antenna proximity to the water changes as the boat rocks and roles. Oh, and stainless is far from the best wire for an
antenna. But then compromise is everywhere!!! Brian On 4/8/08 3:33 AM, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@yahoo.com> wrote: George, I’m far from a radio expert, but this is what I read: An option I heard of often, is using one of the (stainless) backstays as a short wave antenna. Put isolators in it and mount the balun (?) at the top, with the connection wire going into the masthead and then down through the mast. In that way you can always use the antenna, where ever the backstay is positioned. Another (electronically better solution, I understand), is to mount the balun at the foot of the wire and have a removeable connection wire to the receiver. Another option, as fas as I know, would be a short, rigid
(2’) active short wave antenna with tuner. As far as I understand, these modern antennas are better than the old isolated wire. You can mount the active antenna on the masthead or on the aft rail. Perhaps even halfway up against the front of the mizzen mast. I know this cannot be done with aluminum masts (it hinders reception/transmission) but perhaps a radio frequency expert could say it a CF mast will be a hindrance too. I would be very interested in this answer too, also with respect to VHF reception and transmission. I take it that counterpoise is a term for electromagnetic ground? If that’s correct then, as a ground plate, you can use special bronze plates that you mount on the outside of the hull. They have a special ‘puckered’ surface to maximize the area of bronze in contact with water. They are about 6" x 2". On the inside, you connect your groundwire to the plate. Hope someone
corrects me it I made an error in some of this. Michel — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com , “George Huffman” <thatboatguy2@…> wrote: > > Hi, > > I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas. > I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was > part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install > that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m > wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and > counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide > books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of > a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would
much prefer a permanently > installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we > arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have > to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out > there. > > Thanks > > George >
You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
Attachment: (image/jpeg) freedom dipolel.jpg [not stored]

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
I’ve attempted to attach a scan of a line drawing from one of the books I’m reading on the topic. “Communications at Sea” by Mike Harris. Interesting that it’s clearly a Freedom Cat Ketch! :slight_smile: Looks like there is far from agreement on what’s best concerning the ground plane. I’m going to rig two radios in the near future. One is an ICOM 802 and that’s a paid job in which I must stick to the manufactures installation instructions. But on our boat I’ll experiment. The 802 is in Mandeville LA. and we are in Annapolis so maybe we will try and talk to one another! Also the 802 I’m setting up with a PacTor III modem and that should be interesting. I had everything mounted up before I left and when I fly back down in late May I’ll do all the wiring. If the attachment doesn’t work I’ll send a link next time. Thanks Steve,We are much alike you and I. My first cruising
boat was a Nimble 30 (double ender) I named Clovis Point! Hang in there… something always shakes loose for guys like us.GeorgeBrian Guptil <sailordude@…> wrote: HF Antennas We keep hearing “size matters”, and those sympathetic may say “size doesn’t matter.” Well in antennas “length matters,” epically if you are trying to operate without an antenna coupler. We are discussing modifications to a dipole antenna. This antenna is a 1/2 wavelength center fed configuration. At the 80 Meter band, that antenna is 40 meters long. As you change the frequency, the antenna becomes more (out of tune) and the SWR starts climbing, and at some point the transmitter will shut down, go into power limit mode or overheat the final amplifier’s). You can cheat this by having multiple length raiding elements, but this gets a little clumsy as you stretch 5, 10 and 20 Meters elements on both sides of the center insulator. You can eliminate half the length of wire antenna by substituting the non-radiating side of the antenna with “earth.” If your antenna is near 1/4 wave length and the connection to earth is very robust, you probably will have a matched antenna. Now, if you are going to operate on other then “tuned length” you need to fool the transmitter into thinking it is feeding a 52 ohm resistive (matched) load and the antenna coupler comes
into play. The coupler has a tunable inductor/capaciter combination filter that (effective) adds or in some cases, subtracts length to the antenna as far as the transmitter is concerned. On both the transmit and receive functions, an antenna less then 1/4 wave does not have the same ability to transfer RF energy to or from the outside world. The pseudo antenna length is actually, inside the antenna coupler BOX, not exposed to the sky. On the receive side, there are two measures, signal strength and signal to noise ratio (s/n). Noise is made up of electrical interference external to the receiver, noise generated in the receiver, and atmospheric noise one hears between channels on the AM and FM radios etc, now thought to be echo’s from the Big Bang, so say scientists in radio astronomy. You want to amplify the signal, not the noise. Best done with good antenna rather then a short antenna with an amplifier. S/V Cayenne has a coupler, stbd side hull adjacent to the mizzen, with an insulator feed thru to the deck. I can hang wire, vertically with flag halyards, or an inverted “L” shape, hoisted on the mizzen and then stretched across to the main, both using flag halyards and appropriate insulators. Ground plain is a 2 in wide copper strap run all the way around the inside of the hull at about a foot below the water line. Too bad, lightning took out the IC M-802. The Best antenna I worked with (other then very long wires) was a 27ft fiberglass whip. It’s advantage was ease of matching (low Q, broad tuning range) to coupler. But on self-righting motor surf boats, DX’ing is not the purpose, and having a forgiving antenna/coupler combination was very important. Remember, a sailboat is a dynamic environment where the antenna proximity to the water changes as the boat rocks and roles. Oh, and stainless is far from the best wire for an
antenna. But then compromise is everywhere!!! Brian On 4/8/08 3:33 AM, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@yahoo.com> wrote: George, I’m far from a radio expert, but this is what I read: An option I heard of often, is using one of the (stainless) backstays as a short wave antenna. Put isolators in it and mount the balun (?) at the top, with the connection wire going into the masthead and then down through the mast. In that way you can always use the antenna, where ever the backstay is positioned. Another (electronically better solution, I understand), is to mount the balun at the foot of the wire and have a removeable connection wire to the receiver. Another option, as fas as I know, would be a short,
rigid (2’) active short wave antenna with tuner. As far as I understand, these modern antennas are better than the old isolated wire. You can mount the active antenna on the masthead or on the aft rail. Perhaps even halfway up against the front of the mizzen mast. I know this cannot be done with aluminum masts (it hinders reception/transmission) but perhaps a radio frequency expert could say it a CF mast will be a hindrance too. I would be very interested in this answer too, also with respect to VHF reception and transmission. I take it that counterpoise is a term for electromagnetic ground? If that’s correct then, as a ground plate, you can use special bronze plates that you mount on the outside of the hull. They have a special ‘puckered’ surface to maximize the area of bronze in contact with water. They are about 6" x 2". On the inside, you connect your groundwire to the plate. Hope someone
corrects me it I made an error in some of this. Michel — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com , “George Huffman” <thatboatguy2@…> wrote: > > Hi, > > I would like to renew the discussion on hi frequency radio antennas. > I recently inherited an ICOM M 745 Transceiver and ICOM tuner. It was > part of my compensation on the latest integrated electronics install > that I did. So it looks like Marquesa will have ears after all. I’m > wondering about what other F 40 owners are using for antennas and > counter poise? Interestingly enough one of the little radio guide > books I have shows a line drawing of an F 40 to illustrate the use of > a dipole antenna hoisted aloft. I would much prefer a permanently > installed antenna that we could use in seaway. I think what we > arrived at last time around was that a whip antenna was going to have > to suffice but I’d still like to hear what’s actually being used out > there. > > Thanks > > George > You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
You rock. That’s why Blockbuster’s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
Attachment: (image/jpeg) freedom dipolel.jpg [not stored]

Posted by Bill Williams (escbill@…>)

One of the foremost marine electronics technicians on the west coast says if all your bronze through hulls are tied together with a ground wire, typically green, as they should be, use that as a ground for your HF SSB set. There is far more area of grounding using this method, and it’s already installed on your boat.

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

Unfortunately attaching them with any round wire is pointless where RF
is concerned. The conductor needs to be flat. In fact “If it’s round
it isn’t ground” seems to be a universally accepted theme… but… I
am still a seeker on this path.

George

– In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Bill Williams”
<escbill@…> wrote:

One of the foremost marine electronics technicians on the west coast
says if all your bronze through hulls are tied together with a ground
wire, typically green, as they should be, use that as a ground for
your HF SSB set. There is far more area of grounding using this
method, and it’s already installed on your boat.

Posted by Bill Williams (escbill@…>)

Ground is a ground is a ground…shape matters not. This is from a guy who makes his living with marine electronics and another guy who’s been into Ham radio for 45 years. All the surface area of all the through hulls added together add up to more than the ground plates some use on their boats. Plus, the holes through the hull are already there and it doesn’t mean a haul to install one of the ground plates.

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

“A ground is a ground is a ground”

Actually… not. That much I can say with complete confidence.

RF tends to travel on the surface of a conductor, therefore a wide
flat braid is ideal for the purpose and a solid or braid round wire,
commonly used for bonding thru hulls together, would be far less
effective for high frequency. This is all well documented in radio
installation manuals and also by the ARRL.

Having said that… It’s certain that one way to achieve a good ground
plain is to combine thru hulls, but to do it effectively would require
the proper shape conductor.

It seems that some people achieve a good RF ground by connecting even
a single thru hull to the radio/tuner. That’s been reported here and
I intend to try it… why not? Ok but check out what shape conductor
they advocate!

George

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Bill Williams”
<escbill@…> wrote:

Ground is a ground is a ground…shape matters not. This is from a
guy who makes his living with marine electronics and another guy who’s
been into Ham radio for 45 years. All the surface area of all the
through hulls added together add up to more than the ground plates
some use on their boats. Plus, the holes through the hull are already
there and it doesn’t mean a haul to install one of the ground plates.

Posted by Bill Williams (escbill@…>)

George,

    Not to be argumentative, but in sea water it's the surface area for the ground you're concerned with. Even on earth, ground radials are buried with "round" wire and achieve perfect ground plains in good soil. How and what wire you connect each through hull with is insignificant, and even the wires run throughout the boat to each through hull will also act as a ground plain. One of the reasons people advocate running flat copper is that is makes good contact when hose clamped to the through hull, but the end result is achieved with the contact from the seawater and through hull. When this idea is presented by a foremost marine electronics expert, with many many years of experience with all types of ocean going vessels, I'll put my money on him.

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

Here is an article online I found from Gordon West. Good read.

http://www.kp44.org/ftp/SeawaterGroundingFor_HF_Radios_byGordonWest.pdf

The few I’ve installed I used both capacitive and in water (dynaplate)
grounds and made all connections with three inch solid copper ribbon.
They worked well but I wonder how much was overkill?

George

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Bill,It’s OK, not arguing here either just searching for good hard information on installation procedures. Our discussion has motivated me to dig further into the why rather than simply the what. I’ve had success following radio manufactures recommendations when I’ve done installs on a professional basis. Probably over one hundred VHF radios but only a very few high frequency ones. The market I was working in was high end newer power boats in South West Florida and not a lot of those guys went for SSB. Track Vision TV yes, and Track Phone but not a lot of HF radios. So I’ll admit that my part of the discussion on RF grounding is more from my own research than from practical experience. But I am not siting “a foremost marine electronics expert, with many many years of experience” who has yet gone un-named or a ham radio operator who has been at it for 45 years. I’m going to put my money on experts
like Nigel Calder and Gordon West as well as organizations like the US Navy, US Coast Guard, ABYC, and ARRL. Just out of curiosity, what radios have you installed in what boats? How did they work out? But the conversation has probably left the arena of the useful for the entire group. I’d love to continue off line if you wish to email me direct I’m Thatboatguy on google’s mail service. GeorgeBill Williams <escbill@…> wrote: George, Not to be argumentative, but in sea water it’s the surface area for the ground you’re concerned with. Even on earth, ground radials are buried with “round” wire and achieve perfect ground plains in good soil. How and what wire you connect each through hull with is insignificant, and even the wires run throughout the boat to each through hull will also act as a ground plain. One of the reasons people advocate running flat copper is that is makes good contact when hose clamped to the through hull, but the end result is achieved with the contact from the seawater and through hull. When this idea is presented by a foremost marine electronics expert, with many many years of experience with all types of ocean going vessels, I’ll put my money on him. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Posted by Bill Williams (escbill@…>)

Ken Englert at Maritime Communications, Inc.in Marina Del Rey for one, or check this web site for some of the best of the best in marine electronics: http://www.marineelectronicsjournal.com/mej_dealer_list.cgi?state_id=CA

As for the ham operator with over 45 years of experience, that would be me. Also, drop a note to Gordon West and ask him about using wired thru-hulls for HF grounds.

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

Again,

I’d be happy to discuss the topic further off the mail list. Final
answer. :slight_smile:

George

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Bill Williams”
<escbill@…> wrote:

Ken Englert at Maritime Communications, Inc.in Marina Del Rey for
one, or check this web site for some of the best of the best in marine
electronics:
http://www.marineelectronicsjournal.com/mej_dealer_list.cgi?state_id=CA

As for the ham operator with over 45 years of experience, that would
be me. Also, drop a note to Gordon West and ask him about using wired
thru-hulls for HF grounds.