Interior lights and and battery charger on shore power?

Sorry, a naive question and don’t have much time to search the manuals… Being new to this F30, I just connected shore power for the first time. The shore power breaker light turns on and I can hear a slight buzz after turning on the battery charger.

I want to spend the night on the boat and the AGM batteries are 5 and 8 years old, not ever going above 12.3v on the house meter.
Is it acceptable to concurrently use the interior cabin lights (just changed to LEDs) and have the battery charger turned on when on 110v shore power?
Thanks!!

Earthman- yep, that’s how it should be - With shore power on, turn the dc on, and battery charger to on- should all be fine unless the agm’s are toast. Need a a multimeter to test batteries…

Hey Camino. Excellent, thank you!
I had a beer club group heading out to Cocktail Cove at Jewell Island for tonight, but with this Maine storm the marina slip will suffice and I don’t want to run out of juice for the cabin lights.
I’ll bring the multi-meter because, being a new owner, that’s about the one thing I haven’t checked yet. Thanks!

Let the upgrades begin fellow Freedom 30 owner.

Good AGMs should last longer than 7 years if cared for properly. I realize that is a big if. My lifeline AGMs went 14 years.

12.3 v is not good. But all is not lost depending on what is happening on the charging side. How is the boat set up? Are you sure you are charging? Are you sure you have AGMs?

Tell us

Original alternator?
Model of shore charger?
Regulator installed? Model?
Battery mfg name, capacity, house and start or?
Do you have a batt monitor installed?

When I bought my boat I did not know any of this stuff. So don’t feel like the lone ranger.

Mike, that’s awesome, thanks!
Wish I had seen your post prior to my overnight on the boat last night, but I have some info…

I connected to shore power for the first time last night and the batteries charged nicely, during hours of lights on.
It was a social overnight so didn’t have time to check their power with my meter, but I’ll be doing that. The voltage meter to the right of the battery selector was showing higher this morning for both batteries, and I will check again when the boat is on the hard this Thursday to see if either battery has drained.

Regarding your helpful questions…
Original alternator?

  • Do not know but it may be, considering most everything else is original (except fuel tank, I just learned). May have time to look on Thursday.
    Model of shore charger?
  • Don’t know, and will check.
    Regulator installed? Model?
  • Sorry, no idea, and also don’t know it’s location. ??
    Battery mfg name, capacity, house and start or?
  • Battery 1: Brand name starts with the word “ENERGY” but I couldn’t see more without disconnecting and pulling it out of the battery box. Is AGM. Says: 24DC-6, MCA 500, RC 140 (unsure what RC is), dated June of 2016.
  • Battery 2: Is a Deka Marine/RV Intimidator, AGM, 800 MCA, 525 CCA, 79 AH@20hr, July 2019.
  • I’m swapping between the 1 and 2 batteries each time I use them, for starting and house use. Is there a better protocol??
    Do you have a batt monitor installed?
  • Sorry, unsure what that is. There is the 1/2 push switch on the panel, to the right of the battery selector, that when pressed indicates the voltage of each battery. That’s where I got the 12.3 but I’m unsure if it’s accuracy - will compare against the meter when I have a chance.

Really appreciate your time and input!

Earthman

As I found out over the years, the boat electrical system is really a key element of the vessel and of enjoying your time aboard. If it is well set up, your life is way less stressful…as you are already discovering.

I was in exactly the same situation as you when I bought my boat in terms of what was what with the charging and electrical system on board. There are still a lot of guys who have forgotten more than I know about marine electrical systems, but I am pretty up to speed on my own boat’s configuration.

First step is to explore and see what you have. I realize you probably have half a dozen priorities at this point but one thing you should absolutely do is start whiteboardung your set up. Get all the parts identified and get the documentation specs for those parts, including batteries. The internet is a mother lode of data on just about everything including old and obsolete stuff.

I find this research kind of interesting and you learn a lot about your boat by doing it. Trust me, you will find out all about your tankage and bilge pumps and wiring and on and on as you explore the power system.

AGM batteries can be a bit different between mfgs in terms of voltages for charging , float and so on, that is why it is useful to know exactly what you have. You can go to the mfg website and obtain data for your specific batteries. This will give you charging profiles and appropriate voltages and temps, etc. for all phases. Print that stuff and start a system manual for the boat, continue with the rest of the electrical gear.

Typically the boat will be configured with a house and start bank of batteries. On my boat I rarely use the house bank for starting. Only if the start battery has issues and very mindfully in that case which is rare. You can screw things up inadvertently connecting your good house batts to a bad start batt. The house bank is dedicated to utility power aboard the boat but I think should only be used for starting in emergencies. The start itself draws a lot of amperage but for every short duration so rechargingthe start usually does not require a lot of power. And if the boat isnt starting right up?..well there is another discussion… hahaha.

A battery monitor properly configured, will give you insight into how the bank(s) are doing with respect to state of charge, temperature and a variety of other useful data. It is especially helpful for the situation you found yourself in ie how much are my led lamps drawing and how much ampacity do I have left in the batt(s) constantly updated in time. It will also tell you how long the batt will support whatever load you subject ot to. Very useful.

A regulator, properly configured and coupled with an appropriate alternator, will allow you to tune battery charging precisely to thr mfg charge specifications you printed for your manual. It also provides useful info regarding performance of the regulator and the alternator.

I assume you have the yanmar 2gm20f motor? If so, it was originally equipped with a 35 amp Hitachi self regulated alternator. I think I have that amperage right. This internal regulation was set up for lead acid batteries and is not configurable so if you are charging AGMs with it you will want to verify the Hitachi regulator output is properly compatable with your AGMs which you can check in the boats electrical manual you are preparing.

So I could write a book on the F30 electrical stuff, 90% of which would be pretty accurate. If you pm your phone # we could chat about all of this and I might be able to help with other questions i have owned my boat for almost 25 years now so i have seen and fussed around with just about everything at this point.

Hey Mike,
All great, thanks.

Yes, as you say, it’s recently been a matter of finding and downloading various manuals for the equipment, and figuring out what we have that is 1987 vintage or newer like the fuel tank (I believe it was replaced because it is 17 gallons-ish and not 20).

I’ve also just started an energy worksheet to start to fill in what equipment utilizes what amps.
Please, is there a recommended battery monitor?

Thanks for the house and start bank guidance. I wasn’t aware and we will start to do that, and I’ll figure out which battery may be better for each role (guessing the one with higher cranking amps for starting).

Yep, it’s the Yanmar 2GM20F. I’ll look to see if has the Hitachi.
I think the prior owner had their boatyard do many or all of the replacements / repairs during their past 30 years of his ownership, and I will call that boatyard to ask for any documentation of what they’ve done (as part of pulling info together like you said).

We’ve purchased this F30 with the family that owned the F25 with us. He’s working to figure out why the propane system is not working and I may point him in your direction. ; )

Thanks again!!
I’m looking forward to having a little boat time on Thursday.

I thought that propane on a boat was a bad idea, propane being heavier than air and not being able to escape the bilge?

[quote=RussNelson post_id=55854 time=1700256277 user_id=6445]
I thought that propane on a boat was a bad idea, propane being heavier than air and not being able to escape the bilge?
[/quote]

The tanks live in a special locker that’s vented overboard. A solenoid valve also lives in the propane locker, so that the gas can shut off at the supply, allowing the remaining gas in the hose to be burned.

I’m jumping into this a bit late, but you probably need to equalize your batteries. I don’t know if your current charger can do that, but if you’re reading 12.3V, you definitely have some issues.

– Geoff

[quote=RadioZephyr post_id=55859 time=1700498296 user_id=5979]
[quote=RussNelson post_id=55854 time=1700256277 user_id=6445]
I thought that propane on a boat was a bad idea, propane being heavier than air and not being able to escape the bilge?
[/quote]

The tanks live in a special locker that’s vented overboard. A solenoid valve also lives in the propane locker, so that the gas can shut off at the supply, allowing the remaining gas in the hose to be burned.
[/quote]

Awesome! Yes, I’ve heard that’s the only safe way to do it. I’m going to remove the propane stove (!) that somebody added, and work with the alcohol stove that came with the F25.