Leaking Toe Rail & Bow Pulpit F28

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1

Posted by lioneldmp7 (doug.payne@…>)

When we bought our 87 Mull F 28 a year ago, there was evidence of
leaks on the starboard side of the V berth ceiling where the hull and
deck is joined, but the previous owner said they had been fixed. We
don’t get but a few inches of rain in a year in Arizona and haven’t
had any leaks yet, but in the last few weeks we have had torrential
rains and when I went out to check the boat, the cushions were soaked
and the wood strips lining the hull were swollen and distorted from
moisture - major problem. Taking down the teak molding along the hull
joint, I could see puddles on top of the strip showing that one of
the bolts fastening the starboard side rear of the bow pulpit, and 3-
4 of the toe rail stainless bolts were leaking. So, I guess I am
facing my first rebedding job. Questions:

  1. On the 28’s and I assume also on the 30’s and 36 since they are
    similarly constructed, am I likely to find the toe rails fastened in
    solid glass, or does the balsa core of the deck go all the way out to
    the edge of the deck where it fastens to the hull. Of course I am
    hoping to be working in all glass.
  2. How about the bow pulpit rear base which is touching the toe rail,
    ie just maybe 3-4 inches in from the outer edge of the hull, will
    that be solid glass or balsa at that point?
  3. Don’t see any other leaks up there, and there have never been any
    leaks on the rest of the toe rail on either side aft of this point.
    Am hoping to rebed just what is leaking. Is that unwise, should I
    rebed both forward sections of the toe rails, the whole bow pulpit,
    chocks, cleats etc on the bow?
  4. Good Old Boat recent article on sealants says use polysulfide,
    i.e. 3M 101,
    is that correct?
  5. Is the toe rail affixed by the factory with polysulfide, ie can I
    easily get it off, or will I be facing 5200? If it is 5200 how the
    heck to I get it free?
  6. What kind of wood was used on the Mull era 28’s 30’s etc to line
    the V Berth cabin walls? I will have to replace it all.

Sorry for all the questions, but want to put together a plan of
attack and answers to these Q’s will help me get into the project.
Thanks in advance for your responses.

2

Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)

My experience is on the Mull 36. There is roughly a 4" wide band
around the perimeter of the deck which is solid fiberglass. Toe
rails, pushpit, pulpit, scuppers, deck fills, cleats, deck/hull
connection, all in solid glass.

All connections were originally done in 5200. The hull/deck joint is
definately 5200 as well as the toe rail. There is a technique for
separating parts bonded with 5200. Buy a quantity of cheap thin
blade paint scrapers. Carefully drive one in between the parts you
want to pry apart. Drive a second one in adjacent to the first.
Drive a third one in on top of the first. Drive the 4th one in on
top of the 2nd. Drive a fifth one adjacent to the 2nd. Drive a flat
blade screw driver between the first and third. Continue as needed.
Steady careful preassure will break the bond. Be careful you don’t
kink the toe rail.

Poly sulfide (life caulk, 3m etc) is the correct material for
rebedding hardware above and below the water line. 5200 is now only
used for permenent structural bonding (hull/deck joint, prop shaft
strut) Silicone is used for hatches and ports.

Tip on rebedding hardware: Clean both surfaces. Use a countersink
and
chamfer out sightly the hole through the deck. Preposition the
hardware and tape the perimeter footprint and the hardware itself.
Apply the polysulfide and fasten. DO Not tighten fully. Wait 24 hrs
and then fully tighten. Lightly score the exterior caulk bead with a
razor and remove the tape.

The wood on the cabin walls is called “the ceiling” Paul Dennis at
Warren River Boat Works is a great source of information. 401 245
6949 wrbtwks@…


— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lioneldmp7”
<doug.payne@t…> wrote:

When we bought our 87 Mull F 28 a year ago, there was evidence of
leaks on the starboard side of the V berth ceiling where the hull
and
deck is joined, but the previous owner said they had been fixed.
We
don’t get but a few inches of rain in a year in Arizona and
haven’t
had any leaks yet, but in the last few weeks we have had
torrential
rains and when I went out to check the boat, the cushions were
soaked
and the wood strips lining the hull were swollen and distorted
from
moisture - major problem. Taking down the teak molding along the
hull
joint, I could see puddles on top of the strip showing that one of
the bolts fastening the starboard side rear of the bow pulpit, and
3-
4 of the toe rail stainless bolts were leaking. So, I guess I am
facing my first rebedding job. Questions:

  1. On the 28’s and I assume also on the 30’s and 36 since they are
    similarly constructed, am I likely to find the toe rails fastened
    in
    solid glass, or does the balsa core of the deck go all the way out
    to
    the edge of the deck where it fastens to the hull. Of course I am
    hoping to be working in all glass.
  2. How about the bow pulpit rear base which is touching the toe
    rail,
    ie just maybe 3-4 inches in from the outer edge of the hull, will
    that be solid glass or balsa at that point?
  3. Don’t see any other leaks up there, and there have never been
    any
    leaks on the rest of the toe rail on either side aft of this
    point.
    Am hoping to rebed just what is leaking. Is that unwise, should I
    rebed both forward sections of the toe rails, the whole bow
    pulpit,
    chocks, cleats etc on the bow?
  4. Good Old Boat recent article on sealants says use polysulfide,
    i.e. 3M 101,
    is that correct?
  5. Is the toe rail affixed by the factory with polysulfide, ie can
    I
    easily get it off, or will I be facing 5200? If it is 5200 how the
    heck to I get it free?
  6. What kind of wood was used on the Mull era 28’s 30’s etc to
    line
    the V Berth cabin walls? I will have to replace it all.

Sorry for all the questions, but want to put together a plan of
attack and answers to these Q’s will help me get into the project.
Thanks in advance for your responses.

3

Posted by Doug Payne (doug.payne@…>)


Thanks for the detailed response, I will
call Paul Dennis.

Douglas M. Payne
Managing Partner Arizona Colorado
Tatum Partners
480-614-4915 Office
480-236-4561 Mobile
480-614-4916 Fax
doug.payne@…
TATUM PARTNERS
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Tatum CFO Partners, LLP - Tatum CIO Partners, LLP www.tatumpartners.com
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-----Original Message-----
From: macks011
[mailto:macks04@…]
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005
3:23 PM
To:
freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re:
Leaking Toe Rail & Bow Pulpit F28

My experience is on the Mull 36. There is roughly
a 4" wide band
around the perimeter of the deck which is solid
fiberglass. Toe
rails, pushpit, pulpit, scuppers, deck fills,
cleats, deck/hull
connection, all in solid glass.

All connections were originally done in 5200. The
hull/deck joint is
definately 5200 as well as the toe rail. There is
a technique for
separating parts bonded with 5200. Buy a quantity
of cheap thin
blade paint scrapers. Carefully drive one in
between the parts you
want to pry apart. Drive a second one in adjacent
to the first.
Drive a third one in on top of the first. Drive
the 4th one in on
top of the 2nd. Drive a fifth one adjacent to the
2nd. Drive a flat
blade screw driver between the first and third.
Continue as needed.
Steady careful preassure will break the bond. Be
careful you don’t
kink the toe rail.

Poly sulfide (life caulk, 3m etc) is the correct
material for
rebedding hardware above and below the water line.
5200 is now only
used for permenent structural bonding (hull/deck
joint, prop shaft
strut) Silicone is used for hatches and ports.

Tip on rebedding hardware: Clean both surfaces.
Use a countersink
and
chamfer out sightly the hole through the deck.
Preposition the
hardware and tape the perimeter footprint and the
hardware itself.
Apply the polysulfide and fasten. DO Not tighten
fully. Wait 24 hrs
and then fully tighten. Lightly score the exterior
caulk bead with a
razor and remove the tape.

The wood on the cabin walls is called “the
ceiling” Paul Dennis at
Warren River Boat Works is a great source of
information. 401 245
6949 wrbtwks@…


— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“lioneldmp7”
<doug.payne@t…> wrote:

When we bought our 87 Mull F 28 a year ago,
there was evidence of
leaks on the starboard side of the V berth
ceiling where the hull
and
deck is joined, but the previous owner said
they had been fixed.
We
don’t get but a few inches of rain in a year
in Arizona and
haven’t
had any leaks yet, but in the last few weeks
we have had
torrential
rains and when I went out to check the boat,
the cushions were
soaked
and the wood strips lining the hull were
swollen and distorted
from
moisture - major problem. Taking down the
teak molding along the
hull
joint, I could see puddles on top of the
strip showing that one of
the bolts fastening the starboard side rear
of the bow pulpit, and
3-
4 of the toe rail stainless bolts were
leaking. So, I guess I am
facing my first rebedding job. Questions:

  1. On the 28’s and I assume also on the 30’s
    and 36 since they are
    similarly constructed, am I likely to find
    the toe rails fastened
    in
    solid glass, or does the balsa core of the
    deck go all the way out
    to
    the edge of the deck where it fastens to the
    hull. Of course I am
    hoping to be working in all glass.
  2. How about the bow pulpit rear base which
    is touching the toe
    rail,
    ie just maybe 3-4 inches in from the outer
    edge of the hull, will
    that be solid glass or balsa at that point?
  3. Don’t see any other leaks up there, and
    there have never been
    any
    leaks on the rest of the toe rail on either
    side aft of this
    point.
    Am hoping to rebed just what is leaking. Is
    that unwise, should I
    rebed both forward sections of the toe rails,
    the whole bow
    pulpit,
    chocks, cleats etc on the bow?
  4. Good Old Boat recent article on sealants
    says use polysulfide,
    i.e. 3M 101,
    is that correct?
  5. Is the toe rail affixed by the factory
    with polysulfide, ie can
    I
    easily get it off, or will I be facing 5200?
    If it is 5200 how the
    heck to I get it free?
  6. What kind of wood was used on the Mull era
    28’s 30’s etc to
    line
    the V Berth cabin walls? I will have to
    replace it all.

Sorry for all the questions, but want to put
together a plan of
attack and answers to these Q’s will help me
get into the project.
Thanks in advance for your responses.





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