Maccochaque Restoration

[Doug_Chace]

Posted by Doug Chace (ch47_av8r@…>)

All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that there are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” the
cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to contact/coddle me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug

[Sean_Mulligan]

Posted by Sean Mulligan (quadmulligan@…>)

Where are the pictures?
Fabreeze?! How did you get boat in basement?!
-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug ChaceSent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:04 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedom21] Maccochaque Restoration

All, My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, I’ve moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). Today was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have begun painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from another “shade tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by using fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is posted, I need to find the before… it’s awful.)The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) it and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several somebodies will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a blast doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards run (that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting ordered, and am looking at wiring. If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, will “indoor/outdoor” wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the mast. Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that there are previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions on wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. This will be my first experience with routing the "juice."Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” the cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees outside.For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group cluttered with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to contact/coddle me directly. :)Looking forward to MANY more days like today!Doug

Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debatein the Yahoo! Answers Food Drink Q&A.

[Doug_Chace]

Posted by Doug Chace (ch47_av8r@…>)

Sean,
The pics are in the “Maccochaque” album. I’ve checked and they
appear to be posted.

Febreze (spelling correctly this time) will help the musty odor leave
my cushions. Wonderful stuff:

http://www.febreze.com/sites/en_US/febreze/index.jsp

As to how my son and I got the boat in the basement? Grease, a shoe
horn, and… no, I’m just doing it a piece or two at a time. Right
now, I’ve got the mast, boom (x2), mainsail (x2), rudder, tiller, and
all the PFDs needed to outfit the Kenyan Royal Navy all in my
basement!

I’ve got a HUGE basement, but the door’s not big enough to
accommodate an F21.

Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <quadmulligan@…>
wrote:

MessageWhere are the pictures?
Fabreeze?! How did you get boat in basement?!
-----Original Message-----
From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Doug Chace
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:04 PM
To: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedom21] Maccochaque Restoration

All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have
begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is
posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a
blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that there
are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” the
cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group
cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to contact/coddle me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug

---

Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[chris_montgomery]

Posted by chris montgomery (freedom.sailingguy@…>)

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@…> wrote:

Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to
wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to do
the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much all
things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn and
it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris
All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!).
Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have
begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by
using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is
posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a
blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that there
are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” the
cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group
cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to contact/coddle me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug

[Doug_Chace]

Posted by Doug Chace (ch47_av8r@…>)

Chris,

After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the
beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building houses,
I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to
brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If
you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on
the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that
the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.

I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to
come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast. I
picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the
mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is
about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and I
had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on tight
and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old
Salts do.

The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting,
cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar
Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together. The
bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I think
it will work.

I am SO glad this site is here!
Thanks again,
Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery”
<freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:

Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to
wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to do
the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much all
things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn and
it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris
All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather,
I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!).
Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have
begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by
using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is
posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out)
it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several
somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a
blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards
run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the
mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that there
are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy.
This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” the
cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees
outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group
cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to contact/coddle
me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug

[chris_montgomery]

Posted by chris montgomery (freedom.sailingguy@…>)

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@…> wrote:

Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of
sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on
anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future.
DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101 if
you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well,
but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other
questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this site
and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.

I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in Newport
News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I keep
Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If
you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful
anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this
summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that your
restoration continues to go well.

Chris,

After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the
beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building
houses,
I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to
brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If
you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on
the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that
the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.

I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to
come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast.
I
picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the
mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is
about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and
I
had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on
tight
and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old
Salts do.

The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting,
cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar
Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together.
The
bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I
think
it will work.

I am SO glad this site is here!
Thanks again,
Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery”
<freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:

Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to
wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to
do
the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much
all
things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn
and
it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris
All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather,
I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!).
Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have
begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from
another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by
using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is
posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out)
it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several
somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a
blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards
run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater,
will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the
mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that
there
are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions
on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy.
This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze”
the
cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees
outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group
cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to
contact/coddle
me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug

[Doug_Chace]

Posted by Doug Chace (ch47_av8r@…>)

Chris,

Meeting on the Bay sounds great.

By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was
going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101
(also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our
Marina.

Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.

Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery”
<freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:

Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of
sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on
anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future.
DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101
if
you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well,
but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other
questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this
site
and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.

I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in
Newport
News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I
keep
Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If
you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful
anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this
summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that your
restoration continues to go well.

Chris,

After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from
the
beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building
houses,
I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to
brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this?
If
you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up
on
the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure
that
the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.

I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to
come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the
mast.
I
picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of
the
mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap
is
about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool
and
I
had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on
tight
and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you
Old
Salts do.

The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting,
cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar
Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together.
The
bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I
think
it will work.

I am SO glad this site is here!
Thanks again,
Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery”
<freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@>
wrote:

Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes
to
wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to
do
the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much
all
things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn
and
it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris
All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather,
I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife
HAPPY!).
Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and
have
begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from
another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8"
by
using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is
posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and
out)
it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several
somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had
a
blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin
halyards
run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the
lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater,
will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the
mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that
there
are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more
questions
on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy.
This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze”
the
cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees
outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group
cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to
contact/coddle
me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug

[Clyde_Wisner]

Posted by Clyde Wisner (clydewis@…>)

Perhaps “4200” which is not permanent. Clyde, accross the Bay on
Taylors Island

Doug Chace wrote:


Chris,

Meeting on the Bay sounds great.

By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was
going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101
(also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our
Marina.

Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.

Doug

— In

.



\

[Sean_Mulligan]

Posted by Sean Mulligan (quadmulligan@…>)

I’m interested in the “101” product for re-bedding stanchions as well.
That’s on the “to-do” list along with installing bow chocks.
I’ll ask my friend at West Marine what he suggests.

Ordered 1/16" lead sheet to fair into the bottom of our keel.
Will need lots of sanding, stripping, filling and fairing before paint.
Anyone have experience with how many gallons of Petit Trinidad it takes?

It’s not Spring here yet - but in a couple of weeks I’m going to start work.
Bought a random orbital buffer for $20.00 at Auto Zone.

I love the idea of F21 owners putting out the invite for others to come sail.
Seeing (from the map) how many are in the NE, it shouldn’t be too hard.

Sean / Vivian - Emmylou, Stamford, CT

-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug ChaceSent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:13 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration

Chris, Meeting on the Bay sounds great. By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101 (also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our Marina.Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.Doug— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” <freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:>> — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> >Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of > sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on > anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future. > DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101 if > you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well, > but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other > questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this site > and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.> > I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in Newport > News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I keep > Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If > you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful > anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this > summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that your > restoration continues to go well.> > Chris,> > > > After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the > > beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building > houses, > > I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to > > brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If > > you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on > > the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that > > the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.> > > > I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to > > come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast. > I > > picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the > > mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is > > about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and > I > > had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on > tight > > and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old > > Salts do.> > > > The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting, > > cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar > > Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together. > The > > bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I > think > > it will work.> > > > I am SO glad this site is here!> > Thanks again,> > Doug> > > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” > > <freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:> > >> > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> > > >Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to > > > wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to > do > > > the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much > all > > > things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn > and > > > it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris> > > > All, > > > > My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, > > I’ve > > > > moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). > > > Today > > > > was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.> > > > > > > > I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have > > > begun > > > > painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)> > > > > > > > I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from > another “shade > > > > tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by > > > using > > > > fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is > > > posted, > > > > I need to find the before… it’s awful.)> > > > > > > > The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) > > it > > > > and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several > > somebodies > > > > will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a > > > blast > > > > doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards > > run > > > > (that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting > > > > ordered, and am looking at wiring. > > > > > > > > If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, > will “indoor/outdoor” > > > > wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the > > mast. > > > > Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that > there > > > are > > > > previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a > > > > difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions > on > > > > wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. > > This > > > > will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”> > > > > > > > Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” > the > > > > cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees > > outside.> > > > > > > > For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group > > > cluttered > > > > with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to > contact/coddle > > me > > > > directly. :)> > > > > > > > Looking forward to MANY more days like today!> > > > Doug> > > >> > >> >>

[esx123]

Posted by esx123 (scott_shuler@…>)
Lifecaulk which is a polysulfide based product is good as bedding.Clyde Wisner <clydewis@…> wrote: Perhaps “4200” which is not permanent. Clyde, accross the Bay on Taylors IslandDoug Chace wrote: Chris, Meeting on the Bay sounds great. By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101 (also a 3M
product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our Marina.Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.Doug— In . Laissez les bons temps rouler
Need Mail bonding?Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.

[julius_christensen]

Posted by julius christensen (biff_sail@…>)
Sean, It took less than 1 gal. to paint my full keel F-21. The people at West Marine say there is a shelf life on anti-fouling paints.Don’t buy more than you need.Has anyone tried the new anti-fouling paint Rust-oleum has out. You can buy it for 30 bucks a quart. It is sold at Lowes.Try www.defender.com for better prices on paint. BFN BiffSean Mulligan <quadmulligan@…> wrote: I’m interested in the “101” product for re-bedding stanchions as well. That’s on the “to-do” list along with installing bow chocks. I’ll ask my friend at West Marine what he suggests. Ordered 1/16" lead sheet to fair into the bottom of our keel. Will need lots of sanding, stripping, filling and fairing before paint. Anyone have experience with how many gallons of Petit Trinidad it
takes? It’s not Spring here yet - but in a couple of weeks I’m going to start work. Bought a random orbital buffer for $20.00 at Auto Zone. I love the idea of F21 owners putting out the invite for others to come sail. Seeing (from the map) how many are in the NE, it shouldn’t be too hard. Sean /
Vivian - Emmylou, Stamford, CT -----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug ChaceSent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:13 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration Chris, Meeting on the Bay sounds great. By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101 (also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our Marina.Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.Doug— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” <freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:>> — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> >Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of > sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on > anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future. > DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101 if > you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well, > but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other > questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this site > and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.> > I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in Newport > News,
but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I keep > Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If > you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful > anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this > summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that your > restoration continues to go well.> > Chris,> > > > After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the > > beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building > houses, > > I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to > > brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If > > you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on > > the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that > > the same holds true
for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.> > > > I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to > > come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast. > I > > picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the > > mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is > > about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and > I > > had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on > tight > > and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old > > Salts do.> > > > The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting, > > cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar > > Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together. > The > > bottom paint
isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I > think > > it will work.> > > > I am SO glad this site is here!> > Thanks again,> > Doug> > > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” > > <freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:> > >> > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> > > >Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to > > > wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to > do > > > the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much > all > > > things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn > and > > > it’s almost impossible to put such a
fire out. Chris> > > > All, > > > > My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, > > I’ve > > > > moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). > > > Today > > > > was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.> > > > > > > > I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have > > > begun > > > > painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)> > > > > > > > I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from > another “shade > > > > tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by > > > using > > > > fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is > > > posted, > > > > I need to find the before… it’s awful.)> > >

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) > > it > > > > and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several > > somebodies > > > > will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a > > > blast > > > > doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards > > run > > > > (that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting > > > > ordered, and am looking at wiring. > > > > > > > > If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, > will “indoor/outdoor” > > > > wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the > > mast. > > > > Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that > there > > > are > > > > previous posts about
this… but does fresh vs. salt make a > > > > difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions > on > > > > wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. > > This > > > > will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”> > > > > > > > Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” > the > > > > cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees > > outside.> > > > > > > > For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group > > > cluttered > > > > with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to > contact/coddle > > me > > > > directly. :)> > > > > > > > Looking forward to MANY more days like today!> > > > Doug> >

[Sean_Mulligan]

Posted by Sean Mulligan (quadmulligan@…>)

Thanks - I am on Defender right now.
Anyone want to weigh in on ablative vs. hard?
Not that we’re seriously racing…
But we take on boats twice our length…
(and we like to turn their heads!)

What’s the dif between $100 and $150 a gallon?

Speedy Sean

-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of julius christensenSent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:41 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration


Sean,
It took less than 1 gal. to paint my full keel F-21. The people at West Marine say there is a shelf life on anti-fouling paints.Don’t buy more than you need.Has anyone tried the new
anti-fouling paint Rust-oleum has out. You can buy it for 30 bucks a quart. It is sold at Lowes.Try www.defender.com for better prices on paint.
BFN

BiffSean Mulligan <quadmulligan@yahoo.com> wrote:



I’m interested in the “101” product for re-bedding stanchions as well.
That’s on the “to-do” list along with installing bow chocks.
I’ll ask my friend at West Marine what he suggests.

Ordered 1/16" lead sheet to fair into the bottom of our keel.
Will need lots of sanding, stripping, filling and fairing before paint.
Anyone have experience with how many gallons of Petit Trinidad it takes?

It’s not Spring here yet - but in a couple of weeks I’m going to start work.
Bought a random orbital buffer for $20.00 at Auto Zone.

I love the idea of F21 owners putting out the invite for others to come sail.
Seeing (from the map) how many are in the NE, it shouldn’t be too hard.

Sean / Vivian - Emmylou, Stamford, CT

-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug ChaceSent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:13 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration

Chris, Meeting on the Bay sounds great. By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101 (also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our Marina.Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.Doug— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” <freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:>> — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> >Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of > sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on > anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future. > DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101 if > you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well, > but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other > questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this site > and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.> > I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in Newport > News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I keep > Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If > you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful > anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this > summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that your > restoration continues to go well.> > Chris,> > > > After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the > > beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building > houses, > > I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to > > brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If > > you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on > > the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that > > the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.> > > > I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to > > come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast. > I > > picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the > > mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is > > about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and > I > > had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on > tight > > and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old > > Salts do.> > > > The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting, > > cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar > > Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together. > The > > bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I > think > > it will work.> > > > I am SO glad this site is here!> > Thanks again,> > Doug> > > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” > > <freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:> > >> > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> > > >Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to > > > wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to > do > > > the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much > all > > > things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn > and > > > it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris> > > > All, > > > > My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, > > I’ve > > > > moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). > > > Today > > > > was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.> > > > > > > > I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have > > > begun > > > > painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)> > > > > > > > I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from > another “shade > > > > tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by > > > using > > > > fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is > > > posted, > > > > I need to find the before… it’s awful.)> > > > > > > > The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) > > it > > > > and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several > > somebodies > > > > will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a > > > blast > > > > doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards > > run > > > > (that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting > > > > ordered, and am looking at wiring. > > > > > > > > If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, > will “indoor/outdoor” > > > > wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the > > mast. > > > > Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that > there > > > are > > > > previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a > > > > difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions > on > > > > wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. > > This > > > > will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”> > > > > > > > Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” > the > > > > cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees > > outside.> > > > > > > > For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group > > > cluttered > > > > with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to > contact/coddle > > me > > > > directly. :)> > > > > > > > Looking forward to MANY more days like today!> > > > Doug> > > >> > >> >>

\

[julius_christensen]

Posted by julius christensen (biff_sail@…>)
Sean, Hard paint is just what it say’s, hard, stays on year after year. Ablative is paint that will gradually wear away with use.It bleeds off and emits chemical agents to prevent growth of slime, algae and barnicles.Epoxies are usually 2 part mixes that are rock hard.As far as prices go,they are so varied I can’t explain it.Some paints vary100 bucks just from one supplier to another.If you buy it at Fawcetts in Annapolis you can pay as much as 350 bucks for a gallon of paint that you can buy at West Marine for much less.I bought halyard for my boat for 96 cents a ft. at the beginning of the season last year.2 months later I found it online at a clearance price of 14 cents a ft. I bought another 100 ft. Boating prices are so unexplanable I can’t even begin to understand. BiffSean Mulligan <quadmulligan@…> wrote: Thanks - I am on Defender right now. Anyone want to weigh in on ablative vs. hard? Not that we’re seriously racing… But we take on boats twice our length… (and we like to turn their
heads!) What’s the dif between $100 and $150 a gallon? Speedy Sean -----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of julius christensenSent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:41 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration Sean, It took less than 1
gal. to paint my full keel F-21. The people at West Marine say there is a shelf life on anti-fouling paints.Don’t buy more than you need.Has anyone tried the new anti-fouling paint Rust-oleum has out. You can buy it for 30 bucks a quart. It is sold at Lowes.Try www.defender.com for better prices on paint. BFN BiffSean Mulligan <quadmulligan@yahoo.com> wrote: I’m interested in the “101” product for re-bedding stanchions as well. That’s on the “to-do” list along with installing bow
chocks. I’ll ask my friend at West Marine what he suggests. Ordered 1/16" lead sheet to fair into the bottom of our keel. Will need lots of sanding, stripping, filling and fairing before paint. Anyone have experience with how many gallons of Petit Trinidad it takes? It’s not Spring here yet - but in a couple of weeks I’m going to start work. Bought a random orbital buffer for $20.00 at Auto Zone. I love the idea of F21 owners putting out the invite for others to come sail. Seeing (from the map) how many are in the NE, it shouldn’t be too hard. Sean / Vivian - Emmylou, Stamford, CT -----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug ChaceSent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:13 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration Chris, Meeting on the Bay sounds great. By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101 (also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our Marina.Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.Doug— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” <freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:>> — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> >Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection
of > sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on > anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future. > DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101 if > you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well, > but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other > questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this site > and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.> > I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in Newport > News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I keep > Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If > you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful > anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this > summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River.
Hope that your > restoration continues to go well.> > Chris,> > > > After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the > > beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building > houses, > > I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to > > brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If > > you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on > > the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that > > the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.> > > > I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to > > come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast. > I > > picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the > > mast is right around 3
1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is > > about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and > I > > had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on > tight > > and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old > > Salts do.> > > > The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting, > > cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar > > Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together. > The > > bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I > think > > it will work.> > > > I am SO glad this site is here!> > Thanks again,> > Doug> > > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” > >
<freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:> > >> > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> > > >Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to > > > wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to > do > > > the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much > all > > > things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn > and > > > it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris> > > > All, > > > > My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, > > I’ve > > > > moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). > > > Today > > > > was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for
me.> > > > > > > > I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have > > > begun > > > > painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)> > > > > > > > I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from > another “shade > > > > tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by > > > using > > > > fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is > > > posted, > > > > I need to find the before… it’s awful.)> > > > > > > > The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) > > it > > > > and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several > > somebodies > > > > will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a > > > blast >

doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards > > run > > > > (that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting > > > > ordered, and am looking at wiring. > > > > > > > > If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, > will “indoor/outdoor” > > > > wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the > > mast. > > > > Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that > there > > > are > > > > previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a > > > > difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions > on > > > > wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. > > This > > > > will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”>

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” > the > > > > cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees > > outside.> > > > > > > > For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group > > > cluttered > > > > with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to > contact/coddle > > me > > > > directly. :)> > > > > > > > Looking forward to MANY more days like today!> > > > Doug> > > >> > >> >>

[Sean_Mulligan]

Posted by Sean Mulligan (quadmulligan@…>)

LOL…
Yep, I have the same experience.
That’s why I have “friends in the business”
and buy a lot of stuff off the beaten track.

We will paint a gallon of ablative on Emmylou.
Will post pix before she is splashed.

Sean

-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of julius christensenSent: Monday, March 05, 2007 10:36 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration


Sean,
Hard paint is just what it say’s, hard, stays on year after year. Ablative is paint that will gradually wear away with use.It bleeds off and emits chemical agents to prevent growth of slime, algae and barnicles.Epoxies are usually 2 part mixes that are rock hard.As far as prices go,they are so varied I can’t explain it.Some paints vary100 bucks just from one supplier to another.If you buy it at Fawcetts in Annapolis you can pay as much as 350 bucks for a gallon of paint that you can buy at West Marine for much less.I bought halyard for my boat for 96 cents a ft. at the beginning of the season last year.2 months later I found it online at a clearance price of 14 cents a ft. I bought another 100 ft. Boating prices are so unexplanable I can’t even begin to understand.
BiffSean Mulligan <quadmulligan@yahoo.com> wrote:



Thanks - I am on Defender right now.
Anyone want to weigh in on ablative vs. hard?
Not that we’re seriously racing…
But we take on boats twice our length…
(and we like to turn their heads!)

What’s the dif between $100 and $150 a gallon?

Speedy Sean

-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of julius christensenSent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:41 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration


Sean,
It took less than 1 gal. to paint my full keel F-21. The people at West Marine say there is a shelf life on anti-fouling paints.Don’t buy more than you need.Has anyone tried the new
anti-fouling paint Rust-oleum has out. You can buy it for 30 bucks a quart. It is sold at Lowes.Try www.defender.com for better prices on paint.
BFN

BiffSean Mulligan <quadmulligan@yahoo.com> wrote:



I’m interested in the “101” product for re-bedding stanchions as well.
That’s on the “to-do” list along with installing bow chocks.
I’ll ask my friend at West Marine what he suggests.

Ordered 1/16" lead sheet to fair into the bottom of our keel.
Will need lots of sanding, stripping, filling and fairing before paint.
Anyone have experience with how many gallons of Petit Trinidad it takes?

It’s not Spring here yet - but in a couple of weeks I’m going to start work.
Bought a random orbital buffer for $20.00 at Auto Zone.

I love the idea of F21 owners putting out the invite for others to come sail.
Seeing (from the map) how many are in the NE, it shouldn’t be too hard.

Sean / Vivian - Emmylou, Stamford, CT

-----Original Message-----From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug ChaceSent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:13 PMTo: freedom21@yahoogroups.comSubject: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration

Chris, Meeting on the Bay sounds great. By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I was going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some 101 (also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at our Marina.Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.Doug— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” <freedom.sailingguy@…> wrote:>> — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> >Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of > sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be used on > anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the future. > DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use 101 if > you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as well, > but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any other > questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh this site > and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.> > I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in Newport > News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where I keep > Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the Chesapeake. If > you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some beautiful > anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay this > summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that your > restoration continues to go well.> > Chris,> > > > After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense from the > > beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building > houses, > > I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish work to > > brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for this? If > > you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you mess up on > > the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am sure that > > the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it is.> > > > I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light (pictures to > > come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the mast. > I > > picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter of the > > mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end cap is > > about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel tool and > I > > had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it on > tight > > and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of you Old > > Salts do.> > > > The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished painting, > > cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats of Spar > > Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything together. > The > > bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be, but I > think > > it will work.> > > > I am SO glad this site is here!> > Thanks again,> > Doug> > > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery” > > <freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:> > >> > > — In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@> wrote:> > > >Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it comes to > > > wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you want to > do > > > the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very much > all > > > things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon to burn > and > > > it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris> > > > All, > > > > My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the weather, > > I’ve > > > > moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife HAPPY!). > > > Today > > > > was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for me.> > > > > > > > I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder and have > > > begun > > > > painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)> > > > > > > > I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from > another “shade > > > > tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about 8" by > > > using > > > > fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after” pic is > > > posted, > > > > I need to find the before… it’s awful.)> > > > > > > > The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside and out) > > it > > > > and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several > > somebodies > > > > will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but I had a > > > blast > > > > doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin halyards > > run > > > > (that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the lighting > > > > ordered, and am looking at wiring. > > > > > > > > If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater, > will “indoor/outdoor” > > > > wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed inside the > > mast. > > > > Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know that > there > > > are > > > > previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt make a > > > > difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more questions > on > > > > wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind of guy. > > This > > > > will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”> > > > > > > > Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the cabin, “Fabreeze” > the > > > > cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32 degrees > > outside.> > > > > > > > For those purists out there who don’t like to see the Group > > > cluttered > > > > with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to > contact/coddle > > me > > > > directly. :)> > > > > > > > Looking forward to MANY more days like today!> > > > Doug> > > >> > >> >>



\

[Doug_Chace]

Posted by Doug Chace (ch47_av8r@…>)

All,

I scraped all the soft paint from the bottom of the Maccochaque all
the way down to the gel coat and proceeded to put on a thick layer (3
coats actually) of ablative paint. It took just over a gallon. By
the way, West Marine / BoatUS is currently do a “reset” in their
stores. I was able to get my SeaFit ablative paint for $6 a gallon,
so I bought some “backstock” for my basement. The price decided the
color, but I like red anyway!

Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <quadmulligan@…>
wrote:

MessageLOL…
Yep, I have the same experience.
That’s why I have “friends in the business”
and buy a lot of stuff off the beaten track.

We will paint a gallon of ablative on Emmylou.
Will post pix before she is splashed.

Sean

-----Original Message-----
From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com [mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of julius christensen
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 10:36 PM
To: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration

Sean,
Hard paint is just what it say’s, hard, stays on year after year.
Ablative is paint that will gradually wear away with use.It bleeds
off and emits chemical agents to prevent growth of slime, algae and
barnicles.Epoxies are usually 2 part mixes that are rock hard.As far
as prices go,they are so varied I can’t explain it.Some paints
vary100 bucks just from one supplier to another.If you buy it at
Fawcetts in Annapolis you can pay as much as 350 bucks for a gallon
of paint that you can buy at West Marine for much less.I bought
halyard for my boat for 96 cents a ft. at the beginning of the season
last year.2 months later I found it online at a clearance price of 14
cents a ft. I bought another 100 ft. Boating prices are so
unexplanable I can’t even begin to understand.

Biff
Sean Mulligan <quadmulligan@…> wrote:
Thanks - I am on Defender right now.
Anyone want to weigh in on ablative vs. hard?
Not that we’re seriously racing…
But we take on boats twice our length…
(and we like to turn their heads!)

What’s the dif between $100 and $150 a gallon?

Speedy Sean

-----Original Message-----
From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of julius christensen
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:41 PM
To: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration

  Sean,

It took less than 1 gal. to paint my full keel F-21. The people
at West Marine say there is a shelf life on anti-fouling
paints.Don’t buy more than you need.Has anyone tried the new
anti-fouling paint Rust-oleum has out. You can buy it for 30
bucks a quart. It is sold at Lowes.Try www.defender.com for better
prices on paint.
BFN

Biff

Sean Mulligan <quadmulligan@…> wrote:
I’m interested in the “101” product for re-
bedding stanchions as well.
That’s on the “to-do” list along with installing bow chocks.
I’ll ask my friend at West Marine what he suggests.

Ordered 1/16" lead     sheet to fair into the bottom of our

keel.

Will need lots of     sanding, stripping, filling and fairing

before paint.

Anyone have     experience with how many gallons of Petit

Trinidad it takes?

It's not Spring here     yet - but in a couple of weeks I'm

going to start work.

Bought a random orbital buffer     for $20.00 at Auto Zone.

I love the idea of     F21 owners putting out the invite for

others to come sail.

Seeing (from the     map) how many are in the NE, it shouldn't

be too hard.

Sean / Vivian - Emmylou, Stamford, CT


-----Original Message-----

From: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:freedom21@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug Chace
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:13 PM
To: freedom21@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [freedom21] Re: Maccochaque Restoration

    Chris,

Meeting on the Bay sounds great.

By the way, THANKS for the 5200 warning. That is exactly what I
was
going to use on my stanchion rebed. I’ll see if I can find some
101
(also a 3M product?) or ask around to some of the Old Salts at
our
Marina.

Spring is here and I’m itching to launch MY 21.

Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery”
<freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace” <ch47_av8r@>
wrote:

Doug–You must be very judicious in your selection of
sealants/ashesives. 5200 is an adhesive and should not be
used on
anything that you might want to undo/remove anytime in the
future.
DON’T use it to rebed stancions, or any other deck gear. Use
101
if
you can find it. There are some other sealants that work as
well,
but I’m not familiar with the brand names. If you have any
other
questions regarding your refit, feel free to email throuogh
this
site
and I think that my home emeil is on the members section.

I see that you are from DC. I grew up there. I now live in
Newport
News, but am soon to move to Middlesex on the Pianatank where
I
keep
Sook, My 21. I assume that you will be sailing the
Chesapeake. If
you ever want to rondevous get in touch. There are some
beautiful
anchorages in my area. Also, I’m hoping to sail up the bay
this
summer to visit on the Choptank and the Wast River. Hope that
your
restoration continues to go well.

Chris,

After much reading (and what SHOULD have been common sense
from
the
beginning), I have realized that you are right. On building
houses,
I’ve done everything from plumbing to frame in to finish
work to
brick and mortar… never electrical. And my reason for
this?
If
you mess up on the plumbing, you need a ShopVac. If you
mess up
on
the electrical, you can burn somebody’s house down. I am
sure
that
the same holds true for a boat – MY boat. Tinned wire it
is.

I’ve mounted the steaming light and the anchor light
(pictures to
come soon) and found a great fix for the opening top of the
mast.
I
picked up a 3" PVC end cap at Lowe’s. The outside diameter
of
the
mast is right around 3 1/2". The inside diameter of the end
cap
is
about 3 15/32". So, just under 10 minutes with my Dremel
tool
and
I
had a “hand and glove” type of fit. I used 5200 to seal it
on
tight
and covered it in electrical tape like I’ve seen so many of
you
Old
Salts do.

The rudder assembly is finally ready. I’ve finished
painting,
cleaned up the SS fittings, completed the tiller (7 coats
of Spar
Urethane SHOULD be enough for now), and put everything
together.
The
bottom paint isn’t the exact color I thought it would be,
but I
think
it will work.

I am SO glad this site is here!

Thanks again,
Doug

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “chris montgomery”
<freedom.sailingguy@> wrote:

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Doug Chace”
<ch47_av8r@>
wrote:

Doug–I wouldn’t consider anything but the best when it
comes
to
wiring. I’m a bit biased as an electrician, but do you
want to
do
the job again and soon? The difference in cost isn’t very
much
all
things considered and a short can get fiberglass/carbon
to burn
and
it’s almost impossible to put such a fire out. Chris
All,
My restoration of #138 is in full swing. Due to the
weather,
I’ve
moved operations into my basement (and isn’t my wife
HAPPY!).
Today
was a banner day in boating maintenance/repair for
me.

I finally got the stain from the tiller off the rudder
and
have
begun
painting. (You’ll see some pics posted)

I’m also rebuilding another tiller that I got from
another “shade
tree” boat guy like myself. He tried to extend it about
8"
by
using
fiberglass and got horrible results. (A psuedo-“after”
pic is
posted,
I need to find the before… it’s awful.)

The mast is going along swimmingly. I cleaned (inside
and
out)
it
and waxed it so now it’s all shiny. I know that several
somebodies
will probably tell me that I wasted my time waxing, but
I had
a
blast
doing it… so did my son. I’ve got the main and spin
halyards
run
(that was a chore), the windvane mount installed, the
lighting
ordered, and am looking at wiring.

If I’m only going to be sailing freshwater,
will “indoor/outdoor”
wiring be o.k since it will essentially be sealed
inside the
mast.
Or, do I really need the “tinned marine” wire. I know
that
there
are
previous posts about this… but does fresh vs. salt
make a
difference? By the way, be prepared with a LOT more
questions
on
wiring. I’m a framer/roofer/landscaper/plumber kind
of guy.
This
will be my first experience with routing the “juice.”

Next up is to re-finish all the wood in the

cabin, “Fabreeze”

the

cushions, and see what else I can do while its 6-32
degrees
outside.

For those purists out there who don’t like to see the
Group
cluttered
with spoonfeeding the newbie, please feel free to
contact/coddle
me
directly.

Looking forward to MANY more days like today!
Doug