After pricing it out a few weeks ago, I decided to pull the trigger on replacing the original Datamarine instruments on my boat. They all work just fine, but they’re more than 30 years old, and I wanted to bring my boat into the 21st century. More importantly, they’re installed in two gigantic Edson pods that take up more than a foot on either side of the steering pedestal. Removing the pod apparatus would free up a ton of cockpit space, and generally make it easier to get by the pedestal.
I decided to go with a set of Raymarine instruments, as they could connect with my older Raymarine autopilot. Also, the i70s is nice and compact, and could take the place of all three Datamarine units. I was originally looking at a Navpod GP1300 for the pedestal guard, which would house just the i70s and the autopilot (I use an iPad as my primary chartplotter), but then I found the Scanstrut Helm Pod SPH-3i, and I much preferred the design. It attaches to the pedestal guard via U-bolts, rather than requiring that you drill and tap mounting holes for it in the stainless tubing. The only holes you need to drill in the guard are for the wire runs, and those don’t have to be perfectly aligned or tapped.
For the new guard, I went with the NavPod single bend AngleGuard, as Edson’s was pricier. I decided to upgrade to 1.25" tubing, rather than sticking with the 1". It required a new top plate ($141 on Defender), but I decided that the additional expense was worth it after checking out a neighbor’s 1.25" guard. It looks better in my opinion, and grabbing onto it just feels right.
So last weekend, after removing all of the old instruments and pods from the pedestal, we fitted the top plate with the included gaskets and attempted to put the new guard in place so that we could drill holes for the feet. Guess what? It didn’t fit! Despite being made for the Edson 335 pedestal, the stainless steel top plate I ordered was the wrong size. Specifically, the 2" riser that’s molded into the cockpit sole obstructs where the feet on the 335 would normally go, so Freedom asked Edson to make them a custom bracket (the “C238”) that places the guard forward about 2.5". I had actually always liked that little riser under the pedestal, but at the time I was cursing Gary Mull’s name for designing it. Why couldn’t he just make it like everyone else’s boat!? (Oh wait…)
Unfortunately, Ken at Edson confirmed that they never made a version of the C238 with 1.25" holes. It seems my only option is a custom-fabricated part. I’m in the process of pricing this out at the moment, so any recommendations of machine shops that do laser/waterjet cutting in the Boston area would be appreciated. The plan is to just make a copy of the NavPod top plate’s design, which is laser cut from 3/16” stainless plate, and then has two short pieces of tubing added to reinforce where the guard goes through it. Shouldn’t be too tricky, right? Ocean Equipment has graciously sent me the cad file for their top plate, which should make the design process fairly simple.
Updates to follow!
PS: Anyone interested in the old Datamarine units or the pod housings?
I hadn’t considered those options, but I think a custom top plate is the way to go. Bending may work, but I’d prefer the look of a straight guard and a new top plate. I’ve found a waterjet/laser cutting place that will cut the part out of 316 SS plate (same as the NavPod) for $150. This doesn’t include polishing it, or welding on the two bushings, but it’s still a very fair price as far as I’m concerned. I’m working with a friend to come up with the modified CAD file, and then I just need to find someone to do the welding and polishing. I don’t imagine those steps will be terribly expensive, but who knows?
By the way, if any other F36/38 owners are interested in upgrading to a 1.25" pedestal guard, I’d be happy to provide the modified CAD file for the top plate.
I did the upgrade to 1.25" guard a couple of years ago. Of course ran into the same problem with the base of pedestal. I bought a 1.25" drill bit and drilled out the original top plate, sanded it and repainted. Looks good and only cost me the price of a drill bit on Amazon and a can of spray paint.
That was our first thought! However, the guy I spoke to at Edson specifically discouraged it. In addition to being over 30 years old, mine is pretty weathered, and I worry about doing anything to further weaken a part that I’m going to need to rely on to potentially hold my weight in rough weather. If it had spent the first half of its life in fresh water like yours, I may have been more willing to roll the dice and save a couple (hundred) bucks
However, I think it’s worth the peace of mind. Also, it’s going to look amazing in stainless.
Josh
I had a similar concern and angonized over drilling it out. The reduction in materials thickness was only 1/8" so went for it. So far so good even with all the electronics hanging on it and the cockpit table. I’m surprised Edson wouldn’t consider providing update bases to accommodate the larger diameter or even replacement bases.
Yeah, the table was another concern. When I asked Edson about why they didn’t make an new version, the guy made it clear that this setup is really rare, with only a handful of boat models that required the special top plate. Honestly, the riser design probably does a lot to reinforce the steering pedestal—likely far beyond what you would get from just bolting it to a flat cockpit sole—but issues like this can explain why it didn’t really catch on. I’m sure we can all think of one or two other Freedom “innovations” that are similar…
Quick project update: I’ve received my new top plate from the waterjet place, and it looks great! When we were modifying the CAD file, I decided to add my initials to it, just for kicks. I know it’s a tad silly, but it’s fun to customize stuff like this, and it didn’t cost any extra, so why not?
The next step is to have a machine shop chamfer the edges, polish it up, and weld two bushings with set screws to the two 1.25" openings for the pedestal guard.
I hope you don’t get a finger snagged in that “Z”…could be painful and expensive.
You might consider “underlaying” the letters with a piece of acrylic epoxied to the back side and pouring in epoxy dyed black then sanded & polished smooth flush with the top face to fill in those letters before installing it.
—John (Glad that my initials all have rounded letters) Brougher
While that all sounds fun, I’m not really worried about catching a finger on the Z. It was indeed quite sharp when it arrived from the waterjet place, but given where it will be located—behind the wheel and throttle, a few inches below the level of the compass—I don’t think I’ll ever be resting my hand near there. Also, the machinist is going to chamfer all the edges and file down the sharp corners, so it shouldn’t be a problem.
My conscience is clear, having pointed that out.
I just know that, in my personal experience, in a sudden heel, roundup, or a “quick spin” (like obliquely hitting the occasional sandbar), everyone in the cockpit tends to grab whatever they can instinctually and without much planning.
The guy on the wheel has an advantage there, but “other fingers”…maybe much smaller [kid} fingers…not so much.
The new bracket has been welded, polished, and passivated/electropolished.
The re-assembled pedestal during dry fit:
The machinist put the two bushings on the top rather than the bottom, which wouldn’t have been an issue if it wasn’t for the letters. I was a bit disappointed at first, but after seeing it all put together it’s not such a big deal. It helps that the welds are absolutely perfect and totally invisible.
Here’s the final installation with the instrument pod installed:
It’s nearly half the width of the original instrument setup, which will make it much easier to get through the cockpit. On the left is a p70s autopilot controller, and on the right is an i70s instrument display. I use an iPad for navigation, and that’s going to be mounted to the guard above the pod.
In addition to the slimmer profile and modern functionality of the new instruments, another reason I undertook this project was that it would simplify my wiring significantly. When I got the boat, there were at least 13 crusty old wires coming from the old instruments, ALL running through the pedestal:
With the current setup I only needed to run a single seatalk backbone cable to a junction in the pod for both units, but I decided to add a USB charger and a kill switch for the autopilot, which I mounted on the back. I used duplex for both of those, so the total number of wires run through the pedestal guard was 3. Minimalism FTW!
[quote=RadioZephyr post_id=49583 time=1488393141 user_id=5979] [quote=“bad”]Darn… have you considered having the guard legs bent. May not fit through the guard plate. Or consider having custom feet welded.[/quote]
I hadn’t considered those options, but I think a custom top plate is the way to go. Bending may work, but I’d prefer the look of a straight guard and a new top plate. I’ve found a waterjet/laser cutting place that will cut the part out of 316 SS plate (same as the NavPod) for $150. This doesn’t include polishing it, or welding on the two bushings, but it’s still a very fair price as far as I’m concerned. I’m working with a friend to come up with the modified CAD file, and then I just need to find someone to do the welding and polishing. I don’t imagine those steps will be terribly expensive, but who knows?
By the way, if any other F36/38 owners are interested in upgrading to a 1.25" pedestal guard, I’d be happy to provide the modified CAD file for the top plate.
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