New Sails & Reefing

Archives
1

Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)


I would appreciate comments on sail design features since we are
considering new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.
Any suggestions most welcome… some questions I have:

What size piston hanks do you recommend on the jib? The prior
sail had #1 I think #2 would be better.
2.
Do you use a luff rope or heavier pre-stretched canvas tape?
3.
It seems our present main has too many slides and they are not
the “black” easy slide Teflon type but bronze – the main does
not go up that easily. I assume from you would use the Teflon low friction
type?
4.
I think a loose footed main that slides with cars in the boom
would be easier to work with rather than a bolt rope. Your thoughts?
5.
Do you have the sailmaker sew the cars just below the batten
pockets?
6.
Do you use the round battens – they seem to set better.
7.
Have you made the main with somewhat deeper reefs?

I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line with a block below
the hook that goes into the ring forward to had purchase – anyone
use a system like this?

Thanks for any input!

Ron
Newport RI

2

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

The blocks which you mention are turning blocks and don’t add
mechanical advantage, but they DO cut down on the (considerable)
friction inherent in a single line reefing system. That line makes a
lot of turns between the cockpit and the termination on the leech of
the sail…even more if you run it through the eye on the leech and
back down to the boom (which provides the “tightest/cleanest” reefing.

Anything you can do to cut this friction makes life a lot easier.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “ron barr” <rwhb@…>
wrote:

I would appreciate comments on sail design features since we are
considering
new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.

Any suggestions most welcome. some questions I have:

I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line with a block below
the hook
that goes into the ring forward to had purchase - anyone use a
system like
this?

Thanks for any input!

Ron

Newport RI

3

Posted by William A. Cormack (wacormack@…>)

My F-36 is set up with blocks on hooks at the mast end. Works great. The block on the first reef fits in between the sheaves at the mast end of the boom so that when it is pulled down to reef the reefing line has a straight run aft through the boom to the aft reef point. I always worried about putting too much tension on the reef line trying to bring the aft end of the main down to the boom. With the setup I have there is no increase in the downward vector and luff tension can be controlled by the halyard.

Bill

----- Original Message -----
From: ron barr
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 1:44 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] New Sails & Reefing




I would appreciate comments on sail design features since we are considering new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.
Any suggestions most welcome… some questions I have:

  1.   What size piston hanks do you recommend on the jib? The prior sail had #1 I think #2 would be better.

  2.   Do you use a luff rope or heavier pre-stretched canvas tape?

  3.   It seems our present main has too many slides and they are not the “black” easy slide Teflon type but bronze – the main does not go up that easily. I assume from you would use the Teflon low friction type?

  4.   I think a loose footed main that slides with cars in the boom would be easier to work with rather than a bolt rope. Your thoughts?

  5.   Do you have the sailmaker sew the cars just below the batten pockets?

  6.   Do you use the round battens – they seem to set better.

  7.   Have you made the main with somewhat deeper reefs?

I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line with a block below the hook that goes into the ring forward to had purchase – anyone use a system like this?

Thanks for any input!



Ron
Newport RI




No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1120 - Release Date: 11/9/2007 9:26 AM

4

Posted by Larry Kraus (kracherlandl@…>)

Bill could you post a pic of the thread up of the reefing lines at the
mast end of the boom? Also, do you have blocks at the leach end of the
main for the reefing line to pass through, or do you simply thread the
reefing line through the grommet on the sail?

Larry Kraus
F32

William A. Cormack wrote:

My F-36 is set up with blocks on hooks at the mast end. Works great.
The block on the first reef fits in between the sheaves at the mast
end of the boom so that when it is pulled down to reef the reefing
line has a straight run aft through the boom to the aft reef point. I
always worried about putting too much tension on the reef line trying
to bring the aft end of the main down to the boom. With the setup I
have there is no increase in the downward vector and luff tension can
be controlled by the halyard.
Bill

----- Original Message -----
*From:* ron barr <mailto:rwhb@...>
*To:* <FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:<FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>>
*Sent:* Friday, November 09, 2007 1:44 PM
*Subject:* [FreedomOwnersGroup] New Sails & Reefing

I would appreciate comments on sail design features since we are
considering new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.

Any suggestions most welcome… some questions I have:

1. What size piston hanks do you recommend on the jib? The prior
sail had #1 I think #2 would be better.

2. Do you use a luff rope or heavier pre-stretched canvas tape?

3. It seems our present main has too many slides and they are not
the “black” easy slide Teflon type but bronze – the main does not
go up that easily. I assume from you would use the Teflon low
friction type?

4. I think a loose footed main that slides with cars in the boom
would be easier to work with rather than a bolt rope. Your thoughts?

5. Do you have the sailmaker sew the cars just below the batten
pockets?

6. Do you use the round battens – they seem to set better.

7. Have you made the main with somewhat deeper reefs?

I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line with a block below
the hook that goes into the ring forward to had purchase – anyone
use a system like this?

Thanks for any input!

Ron

Newport RI

------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1120 - Release Date:
11/9/2007 9:26 AM
5

Posted by Thomas Wales (twales@…>)

Hi Ron,
My comments will be in CAPS below:



At 01:44 PM 11/9/2007, you wrote:

I would appreciate comments on sail design
features since we are considering new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.

Any suggestions most welcome… some questions I have:

  1.   What size piston hanks do you recommend

on the jib? The prior sail had #1 I think #2 would be better.
THE JIB IS ONLY 100 SQ FT. THE SMALLER
HANKS WOULD PROBABLY WORK FINE. YOU ONLY HAVE
TO FIDDLE WITH THEM TWICE A YEAR AND THE LARGER
HANKS HAVE GREATER WINDAGE AND WEIGHT
2. Do you use a luff rope or heavier pre-stretched canvas tape?
YOU COULD SPEC A LOW STRETCH ROPE OR WIRE.
3. It seems our present main has too many
slides and they are not the “black” easy slide
Teflon type but bronze – the main does not go up
that easily. I assume from you would use the Teflon low friction type?
I HAVE PLASTIC SLIDES ON MY MAIN AND
ONCE I GET THEM LUBRICATED, THEY SLIDE FAIRLY
EASILY. I ONLY HAVE TO USE THE WINCH FOR THE
LAST FEW FEET WHEN RAISING THE SAIL.

  1.   I think a loose footed main that slides

with cars in the boom would be easier to work
with rather than a bolt rope. Your thoughts?
I HAD MY MAIN CONVERTED TO A LOOSE FOOT
WHEN I BOUGHT MY BOAT. IT GIVES YOU MUCH MORE
FLEXIBLILITY WITH SAIL SHAPE. AND MY SAILMAKER
PROVIDED ME WITH A KEVLAR STRAP WITH VELCRO
THAT GOES AROUND THE BOOM AND THROUGH THE CLEW INSTEAD OF A SLUG. WORKS
GREAT.
5. Do you have the sailmaker sew the cars
just below the batten pockets?
THE CARS IDEALLY SHOULD BE RIGHT AT THE BATTEN POCKET
6. Do you use the round battens – they seem to set better.
MY BATTENS ARE FLAT AND WORK OK.
7. Have you made the main with somewhat deeper reefs?
I HAVE THE STANDARD 2 REEF SETUP
I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line
with a block below the hook that goes into the
ring forward to had purchase – anyone use a system like this?
I HAVE THIS TYPE OF SETUP AND FIND IT WORKS OUT FINE.

Thanks for any input!
Good luck,

TW
F32 Anoush Koon
Pemaquid, ME

Ron

Newport RI

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database:
269.15.26/1120 - Release Date: 11/9/2007 9:26 AM



–
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1120 - Release Date: 11/9/2007 9:26
AM

6

Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)


Thanks Tom – for the feedback- much appreciated.

Ron
Newport RI



From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Thomas Wales
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 4:20 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [FreedomOwnersGroup] New Sails & Reefing

\




Hi Ron,
My comments will be in CAPS below:

At 01:44 PM 11/9/2007, you wrote:

I would appreciate comments on sail design
features since we are considering new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.

Any suggestions most welcome… some questions I have:

  1. What size piston hanks do you recommend
    on the jib? The prior sail had #1 I think #2 would be better.
    THE JIB IS ONLY 100 SQ FT. THE SMALLER
    HANKS WOULD PROBABLY WORK FINE. YOU ONLY HAVE
    TO FIDDLE WITH THEM TWICE A YEAR AND THE LARGER
    HANKS HAVE GREATER WINDAGE AND WEIGHT
  2. Do you use a luff rope or heavier pre-stretched canvas tape?
    YOU COULD SPEC A LOW STRETCH ROPE OR WIRE.
  3. It seems our present main has too many
    slides and they are not the “black” easy slide
    Teflon type but bronze – the main does not go up
    that easily. I assume from you would use the Teflon low friction type?
    I HAVE PLASTIC SLIDES ON MY MAIN AND
    ONCE I GET THEM LUBRICATED, THEY SLIDE FAIRLY
    EASILY. I ONLY HAVE TO USE THE WINCH FOR THE
    LAST FEW FEET WHEN RAISING THE SAIL.
  1. I think a loose footed main that slides
    with cars in the boom would be easier to work
    with rather than a bolt rope. Your thoughts?
    I HAD MY MAIN CONVERTED TO A LOOSE FOOT
    WHEN I BOUGHT MY BOAT. IT GIVES YOU MUCH MORE
    FLEXIBLILITY WITH SAIL SHAPE. AND MY SAILMAKER
    PROVIDED ME WITH A KEVLAR STRAP WITH VELCRO
    THAT GOES AROUND THE BOOM AND THROUGH THE CLEW INSTEAD OF A SLUG. WORKS
    GREAT.
  2. Do you have the sailmaker sew the cars
    just below the batten pockets?
    THE CARS IDEALLY SHOULD BE RIGHT AT THE BATTEN POCKET
  3. Do you use the round battens – they seem to set better.
    MY BATTENS ARE FLAT AND WORK OK.
  4. Have you made the main with somewhat deeper reefs?
    I HAVE THE STANDARD 2 REEF SETUP
    I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line
    with a block below the hook that goes into the
    ring forward to had purchase – anyone use a system like this?
    I HAVE THIS TYPE OF SETUP AND FIND IT WORKS OUT FINE.

Thanks for any input!
Good luck,

TW
F32 Anoush Koon
Pemaquid, ME




\

7

Posted by William A. Cormack (wacormack@…>)

I just uploaded a diagram of the setup to the file section. Please excuse
my rudimentary drafting skills. I don’t have blocks at the leech end but
may add some.

Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: “Larry Kraus” <kracherlandl@…>
To: <FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: [FreedomOwnersGroup] New Sails & Reefing

\

Bill could you post a pic of the thread up of the reefing lines at the
mast end of the boom? Also, do you have blocks at the leach end of the
main for the reefing line to pass through, or do you simply thread the
reefing line through the grommet on the sail?

Larry Kraus
F32

William A. Cormack wrote:

My F-36 is set up with blocks on hooks at the mast end. Works great.
The block on the first reef fits in between the sheaves at the mast
end of the boom so that when it is pulled down to reef the reefing
line has a straight run aft through the boom to the aft reef point. I
always worried about putting too much tension on the reef line trying
to bring the aft end of the main down to the boom. With the setup I
have there is no increase in the downward vector and luff tension can
be controlled by the halyard.
Bill

----- Original Message -----
*From:* ron barr <mailto:rwhb@...>
*To:* <FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:<FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>>
*Sent:* Friday, November 09, 2007 1:44 PM
*Subject:* [FreedomOwnersGroup] New Sails & Reefing

I would appreciate comments on sail design features since we are
considering new sails for our Hoyt Freedom 32.

Any suggestions most welcome… some questions I have:

1. What size piston hanks do you recommend on the jib? The prior
sail had #1 I think #2 would be better.

2. Do you use a luff rope or heavier pre-stretched canvas tape?

3. It seems our present main has too many slides and they are not
the “black” easy slide Teflon type but bronze – the main does not
go up that easily. I assume from you would use the Teflon low
friction type?

4. I think a loose footed main that slides with cars in the boom
would be easier to work with rather than a bolt rope. Your thoughts?

5. Do you have the sailmaker sew the cars just below the batten
pockets?

6. Do you use the round battens – they seem to set better.

7. Have you made the main with somewhat deeper reefs?

I have heard that Freedoms use a reefing line with a block below
the hook that goes into the ring forward to had purchase – anyone
use a system like this?

Thanks for any input!

Ron

Newport RI

------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1120 - Release Date:
11/9/2007 9:26 AM

Yahoo! Groups Links

–
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1120 - Release Date:
11/9/2007 9:26 AM