Posted by johncd3141 (johncd@…>)
Hi,
I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast track on the back
of my wing
mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So I’ve got a few
question for the group.
What material and size (diameter and length) should I use? Does anyone know
if the pop-
rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop into the mast after I
drill off the
head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the boat?
Thanks for any and all advice
John D.
PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t find any answers.
Posted by Borelmfg (borelmfg@…>)
The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are loose, they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin blade screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other option is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching it thought.
regards,
van
----- Original Message -----
From: johncd3141
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a F25 wingmast
Hi,I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast track on the back of my wing mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So I’ve got a few question for the group.What material and size (diameter and length) should I use? Does anyone know if the pop-rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop into the mast after I drill off the head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the boat? Thanks for any and all adviceJohn D.PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t find any answers.
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
Material to use: best is Monel, because it is inert to electrolitic
corrosion and strong. I can’t get monel rivets here, so I use
aluminum or stainless steel, depending on the required strength. With
the track, I use stainless steel and coat it with anti corrosion
paste and use a thin nylon ring behind the head. Length of the rivet:
make sure you have at least a 1/4" inside the mast to create a nice
fat blob inside the mast. Make sure you don’t force a large hole in
the carbon laminate by too short rivets; carbon is quite brittle.
Good luck
michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@…>
wrote:
The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are loose,
they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin blade
screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other option
is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching it
thought.
regards,
van
----- Original Message -----
From: johncd3141
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a F25
wingmast
Hi,
I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast track on
the back of my wing
mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So I’ve
got a few question for the group.
What material and size (diameter and length) should I use? Does
anyone know if the pop-
rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop into
the mast after I drill off the
head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the boat?
Thanks for any and all advice
John D.
PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t find
any answers.
Posted by johncd3141 (johncd@…>)
Update:
I ended up using 3/16" diameter Stainless Steel blind rivets
with a length of 5/8" (1/2" would have worked on some, but not all of
the holes). I removed the old rivets by drill off the head and then
punching the rivet body into the mast using a 5/32" pin punch and a
small mallet. I used the slight undersized 5/32" rather than the
3/16" to avoid accidently damaging the carbon fiber.
FYI: 3/16" SS blind rivets are quite a struggle with the standard
manual tool, especially when halfway up the mast.
John D.
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:
Material to use: best is Monel, because it is inert to electrolitic
corrosion and strong. I can’t get monel rivets here, so I use
aluminum or stainless steel, depending on the required strength.
With
the track, I use stainless steel and coat it with anti corrosion
paste and use a thin nylon ring behind the head. Length of the
rivet:
make sure you have at least a 1/4" inside the mast to create a nice
fat blob inside the mast. Make sure you don’t force a large hole in
the carbon laminate by too short rivets; carbon is quite brittle.
Good luck
michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” <borelmfg@>
wrote:
The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are loose,
they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin
blade
screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other option
is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching it
thought.
regards,
van
----- Original Message -----
From: johncd3141
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a
F25
wingmast
Hi,
I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast track
on
the back of my wing
mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So I’ve
got a few question for the group.
What material and size (diameter and length) should I use? Does
anyone know if the pop-
rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop into
the mast after I drill off the
head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the boat?
Thanks for any and all advice
John D.
PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t
find
any answers.
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
John,
I have the same experience with using the rivet tool that’s meant to
be used with aluminum rivets. My mast track was riveted every other
hole in the track and sometimes they even had skipped two holes. So
I had to put in a lot of rivets. My hands were sore for two weeks
even while wearing thick worker gloves when riveting and putting a
cloth around the handles of the rivet tool.
Michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “johncd3141” <johncd@…>
wrote:
Update:
I ended up using 3/16" diameter Stainless Steel blind rivets
with a length of 5/8" (1/2" would have worked on some, but not all
of
the holes). I removed the old rivets by drill off the head and
then
punching the rivet body into the mast using a 5/32" pin punch and
a
small mallet. I used the slight undersized 5/32" rather than the
3/16" to avoid accidently damaging the carbon fiber.
FYI: 3/16" SS blind rivets are quite a struggle with the
standard
manual tool, especially when halfway up the mast.
John D.
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@> wrote:
Material to use: best is Monel, because it is inert to
electrolitic
corrosion and strong. I can’t get monel rivets here, so I use
aluminum or stainless steel, depending on the required strength.
With
the track, I use stainless steel and coat it with anti corrosion
paste and use a thin nylon ring behind the head. Length of the
rivet:
make sure you have at least a 1/4" inside the mast to create a
nice
fat blob inside the mast. Make sure you don’t force a large hole
in
the carbon laminate by too short rivets; carbon is quite brittle.
Good luck
michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg”
<borelmfg@>
wrote:
The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are
loose,
they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin
blade
screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other
option
is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching
it
thought.
regards,
van
----- Original Message -----
From: johncd3141
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a
F25
wingmast
Hi,
I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast
track
on
the back of my wing
mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So
I’ve
got a few question for the group.
What material and size (diameter and length) should I use?
Does
anyone know if the pop-
rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop
into
the mast after I drill off the
head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the
boat?
Thanks for any and all advice
John D.
PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t
find
any answers.
Posted by Charlie L. (clivaday@…>)
Try using “tap” rivets (pin is tapped in with a hammer) instead
of “pop” rivets. Much easier-and they work very well.
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:
John,
I have the same experience with using the rivet tool that’s meant
to
be used with aluminum rivets. My mast track was riveted every other
hole in the track and sometimes they even had skipped two holes. So
I had to put in a lot of rivets. My hands were sore for two weeks
even while wearing thick worker gloves when riveting and putting a
cloth around the handles of the rivet tool.
Michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “johncd3141” <johncd@>
wrote:
Update:
I ended up using 3/16" diameter Stainless Steel blind rivets
with a length of 5/8" (1/2" would have worked on some, but not
all
of
the holes). I removed the old rivets by drill off the head and
then
punching the rivet body into the mast using a 5/32" pin punch and
a
small mallet. I used the slight undersized 5/32" rather than the
3/16" to avoid accidently damaging the carbon fiber.
FYI: 3/16" SS blind rivets are quite a struggle with the
standard
manual tool, especially when halfway up the mast.
John D.
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@> wrote:
Material to use: best is Monel, because it is inert to
electrolitic
corrosion and strong. I can’t get monel rivets here, so I use
aluminum or stainless steel, depending on the required
strength.
With
the track, I use stainless steel and coat it with anti
corrosion
paste and use a thin nylon ring behind the head. Length of the
rivet:
make sure you have at least a 1/4" inside the mast to create a
nice
fat blob inside the mast. Make sure you don’t force a large
hole
in
the carbon laminate by too short rivets; carbon is quite
brittle.
Good luck
michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg”
<borelmfg@>
wrote:
The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are
loose,
they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin
blade
screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other
option
is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching
it
thought.
regards,
van
----- Original Message -----
From: johncd3141
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on
a
F25
wingmast
Hi,
I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast
track
on
the back of my wing
mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So
I’ve
got a few question for the group.
What material and size (diameter and length) should I use?
Does
anyone know if the pop-
rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop
into
the mast after I drill off the
head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the
boat?
Thanks for any and all advice
John D.
PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t
find
any answers.
Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)
Or buy an industrial strength pop rivet tool from McMaster-Carr.Law Office ofAlvin J. Lorman1629 K Street, NW, Suite 300Washington, DC 20006Tel/Fax: 202.263.1100Cell: 202.236.2359Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless From: “Charlie L.” <clivaday@…>Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 13:23:31 -0000To: <FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com>Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a F25 wingmast Try using “tap” rivets (pin is tapped in with a hammer) instead of “pop” rivets. Much easier-and they work very well. — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@…> wrote: > > John, > > I have the same experience with using the rivet tool that’s meant to > be used with aluminum rivets. My mast track was riveted every other > hole in the track and sometimes they even had skipped two holes. So > I had to put in a lot of rivets. My hands were sore for two weeks > even while wearing thick worker gloves when riveting and putting a > cloth around the handles of the rivet tool. > > Michel > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “johncd3141” <johncd@> > wrote: > > > > Update: > > I ended up using 3/16" diameter Stainless Steel blind rivets > > with a length of 5/8" (1/2" would have worked on some, but not all > of > > the holes). I removed the old rivets by drill off the head and > then > > punching the rivet body into the mast using a 5/32" pin punch and > a > > small mallet. I used the slight undersized 5/32" rather than the > > 3/16" to avoid accidently damaging the carbon fiber. > > FYI: 3/16" SS blind rivets are quite a struggle with the > standard > > manual tool, especially when halfway up the mast. > > > > John D. > > > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel” > > <michel.capel@> wrote: > > > > > > Material to use: best is Monel, because it is inert to > electrolitic > > > corrosion and strong. I can’t get monel rivets here, so I use > > > aluminum or stainless steel, depending on the required strength. > > With > > > the track, I use stainless steel and coat it with anti corrosion > > > paste and use a thin nylon ring behind the head. Length of the > > rivet: > > > make sure you have at least a 1/4" inside the mast to create a > nice > > > fat blob inside the mast. Make sure you don’t force a large hole > in > > > the carbon laminate by too short rivets; carbon is quite brittle. > > > > > > Good luck > > > > > > michel > > > > > > > > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Borelmfg” > <borelmfg@> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are > loose, > > > they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin > > blade > > > screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other > option > > > is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching > it > > > thought. > > > > > > > > regards, > > > > > > > > van > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: johncd3141 > > > > To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com > > > > Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM > > > > Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a > > F25 > > > wingmast > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi, > > > > I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast > track > > on > > > the back of my wing > > > > mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So > I’ve > > > got a few question for the group. > > > > > > > > What material and size (diameter and length) should I use? > Does > > > anyone know if the pop- > > > > rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop > into > > > the mast after I drill off the > > > > head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the > boat? > > > > > > > > Thanks for any and all advice > > > > > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t > > find > > > any answers. > > > > > > > > > >
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
There are high-leverage mechanical rivet tools, and for the wealthy,
there are hydraulic tools. The high-leverage tools are nearly $200
each. Herm
At 03:36 AM 7/3/2008, you wrote:
John,
I have the same experience with using the rivet tool that’s meant to
be used with aluminum rivets. My mast track was riveted every other
hole in the track and sometimes they even had skipped two holes. So
I had to put in a lot of rivets. My hands were sore for two weeks
even while wearing thick worker gloves when riveting and putting a
cloth around the handles of the rivet tool.
Michel
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
“johncd3141” <johncd@…>
wrote:
Update:
I ended up using 3/16" diameter Stainless Steel blind rivets
with a length of 5/8" (1/2" would have worked on some, but not all
of
the holes). I removed the old rivets by drill off the head and
then
punching the rivet body into the mast using a 5/32" pin punch and
a
small mallet. I used the slight undersized 5/32" rather than the
3/16" to avoid accidently damaging the carbon fiber.
FYI: 3/16" SS blind rivets are quite a struggle with the
standard
manual tool, especially when halfway up the mast.
John D.
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“michel.capel”
<michel.capel@> wrote:
Material to use: best is Monel, because it is inert to
electrolitic
corrosion and strong. I can’t get monel rivets here, so I use
aluminum or stainless steel, depending on the required strength.
With
the track, I use stainless steel and coat it with anti corrosion
paste and use a thin nylon ring behind the head. Length of the
rivet:
make sure you have at least a 1/4" inside the mast to create a
nice
fat blob inside the mast. Make sure you don’t force a large hole
in
the carbon laminate by too short rivets; carbon is quite brittle.
Good luck
michel
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“Borelmfg”
<borelmfg@>
wrote:
The kicker will be trying to drill them out. If they are
loose,
they will spin in the hole. I have some success jamming a thin
blade
screw driver behind the head to keep it from spinning. Other
option
is Dremmel tool and carefully cutting the head off and pouching
it
thought.
regards,
van
----- Original Message -----
From: johncd3141
To:
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Pop-Rivets for Mast Track on a
F25
wingmast
Hi,
I’ve got about half a dozen loose pop-rivets in the mast
track
on
the back of my wing
mast. I think I’ll have to drill them out and replace. So
I’ve
got a few question for the group.
What material and size (diameter and length) should I use?
Does
anyone know if the pop-
rivets are in blind holes or will the pop-rivet body drop
into
the mast after I drill off the
head? Any reason I can’t do this while the mast is in the
boat?
Thanks for any and all advice
John D.
PS I did search this group and the 2003 archives and didn’t
find
any answers.
Posted by harv1752 (harv17@…>)
Harbor Freight web site has a HD riveter for little money. I haven’t
used it so I can’t say much about it. I lists for 14 dollars and if
last for a few rivits it might be worth it!!!
Harv Invicta II F25
– In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:
There are high-leverage mechanical rivet tools, and for the
wealthy,
there are hydraulic tools. The high-leverage tools are nearly $200
each. Herm
At 03:36 AM 7/3/2008, you wrote:
John,
I have the same experience with using the rivet tool that’s meant
to
be used with aluminum rivets. My mast track was riveted every other
SNIP…