Posted by james hendrickson (jademist12@…>)
Noticed many concerns of Au spars (aluminium) My ck40 has a good pair, recently surveyed to be of original good condition. How many large commercial jets aircraft use
similiar material in the main wing spars ? maybe we should stop flying on a/c of more than 500 hrs of flight time ? I, myself feel they are good for more than a few flexural stresses… regards, Jimfreedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com wrote:
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~–> Make a clean sweep of pop-up ads. Yahoo! Companion Toolbar.Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/A1TolB/TM--------------------------------------------------------------------~-> There are 5 messages in this issue.Topics in this digest:1. Re: Frigoboat RefrigerationFrom: “katorpus” 2. Re: questions, questions, and more questionsFrom: “katorpus” 3. Re: questions, questions, and more questionsFrom: “rick_simonds” 4. Re: Re: Autopilot SettingFrom: Sward 5. Re: Re: Autopilot SettingFrom: Paul McFadden
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Message: 1 Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 18:31:56 -0000From: “katorpus” Subject: Re: Frigoboat Refrigeration— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley” wrote:> I considered the head mount as well. After measuring, I wasn’t sure I > could meet the distance requirements if I did that.> Most of these come with 12’ to 12.5’ of pre-charged tubing. Considering that your only “distance” is a straight shot aft that runs the width of the “big ice box” and 1/2 the width of the “little ice box” plus the distance within the head compartment itself, you oughta have MORE than enough. My sugggestion would be to go straight out the back of the “little box” into the galley locker, then
thru the head/galley bulkhead into the undersink cabinet, then aft between the back of the undersink compartment and the holding tank. You could then seal the penetration into the box itself from BOTH sides (inside and from within the galley locker)…and ditto the bulkhead penetration. You MIGHT even manage to drill the holes for this without using a right-angle drill.I’d sure think twice before dumping all that heat into the saloon…but then again, I’m on the Texas Gulf Coast. In any case, the further you get the heat from the box itself, the better things will work. You might even run a duct with a mushroom vent straight up thru the head storage locker and thru the deck. (just don’t bore into the breakwater base from down below) ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Message: 2 Date: Sat, 07 Aug
2004 19:29:52 -0000From: “katorpus” Subject: Re: questions, questions, and more questionsLanceRest assured that the blisters AREN’T just in the paint. My F40 (Hull 61 of the 63 built) had 'em BAD when I bought it 7 years ago.Briefly, here’s what I did: My boat had essentially been in the water 24/7/(365 x 16) at this point…WARM water, at that. Peeled ALL the gel coat below the water line. Ground out the weepy spots with an angle grinder, since it became readily apparent that the resin in the weepy spots was useless.Dried the boat by using a steam cleaner (raises the hull temp, driving out the moisture…also gets rid of the gunk that continues to weep out of the weepy spots) This was a 6 month out-of-water process that went from July until late November on the Texas Gulf Coast. The steam cleaning was done at least weekly throughout that period. Bear in mind this was a TRUE steam
cleaner…not a “hotsy” type hot water high pressure washer. My rudder was wet enough that it drained water for days after I drilled holes into it near the bottom. You need at least one hole up high. Once the moisture meter showed consistent readings throughout (I really DON’T think I had saturation of the balsa core anywhere), we went back with a new layer of mat and 5 coats of vinylester, topped off by Interprotect 1000/2000 epoxy, then two bottom coats of RED Petit Trinidad (70%+ copper).Subsequent haulouts have shown consistent moisture readings and NO recurrent blistering. I’m HAPPY. Total cost of this part of the project was about $6000 for labor and materials (7 years ago). The yard I used (Cove Harbor in Rockport, TX) charged less per month to be on stands in the yard than the local marinas were charging for a slip). Thus, I didn’t factor this into the cost. Yard crews did ALL of the work
and the yard provided the steam cleaner.Winter onboard in Boston Harbor???..WOW! You oughta be able to write a book on that one. Check out the Flagship Marine website for A/C that ISN’T reverse cycle. They seem to have a good product (Coast Guard keeps going back for more) at reasonable prices. They regularly sell used units on e-bay as well (search on marine air conditioner). I’d go for something between 16,000 btu and 18,500.(Sorry, Brian Guptil, but if I’m gonna cool the boat, I want it to be something cooler than 80 degrees). My boat has no A/C at present, but I’ve been plotting and scheming and it’s on the “near horizon”.As another commentary on blister…mine had (still has) numerous blisters above and below the rub rail…well ABOVE the water line. I left them alone. They exist only in the area of aft quarter and only on the port side. This…to me…points more at blistering resulting from errors during
layup than to water intrusion reaction (Sorry about that, Tillotson Pearson, but if you’re reading this, what ELSE could it be?) ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Message: 3 Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 21:05:32 -0000From: “rick_simonds” Subject: Re: questions, questions, and more questions"…Check out the Flagship Marine website for A/C that ISN’T reverse cycle…" One “nay” vote for Flagship Marine here. I have a 16,000 BTU unit in my 32 and I’m disappointed with the A/C performance. 16k should be plenty but mine doesn’t come close to keeping up with the Tallahassee summertime heat. Without question it’s nothin’ but HOT here, in the 90’s from 10 AM to 6 PM every single day from June 1st to October 1st, but I’m getting A/C performance more like a 10,000 BTU unit. It
can’t keep up. I should be doing much better than I am.I’m completely outside my knowledge base about A/C but I’ve had people look at it and I’ve tried whatever seemed reasonable. I’ve talked to the Flagship guys repeatedly and they only say if there’s a 15 degree difference between the temperature of the air going into the unit and the air coming out, it works as far as they’re concerned. There is that much difference with mine but I’m not getting cool. Others with bigger boats and 16k units are walking around in sweaters.The resistance heat in a Flagship unit is a bit different, too. The air coming out isn’t hot, it’s warm. That’s OK, it ultimately heats up the boat, but it does so slowly and you can’t huddle by a vent when you get back to the dock and you’re freezing your a off. Again, the heat works, but slowly.I thought I did my homework on this purchase and Flagship does have some nice features: it’s
mostly stainless, it’s quiet, resistance heat is simpler, it uses a standard thermostat, etc. I also thought I was buying a unit of more than ample size but if you work through the numbers at the Flagship website they seem to be recommending much larger capacity than any other manufacturer. I didn’t really directly compare this until mine was already bought and installed. I haven’t found another owner of a Flagship unit to compare notes with but, so far, put this Flagship Marine owner in the “nay” column.________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Message: 4 Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 15:31:32 -0700 (PDT)From: Sward Subject: Re: Re: Autopilot SettingAfter mine was installed and I tried it out, adjusted it, and couldn’t get her from “snaking” all over, I contacted Raymarine and
these are the settings they suggested and it’s pretty much on track now:Cal Lock-OFF-----Rudd gain 2-----Response 2-----Turn Rate 30-----Align Rud 0----- Rud Limit 23-----Off Course 20-----Auto Tack 100%-----Auto Trim 2-----Drive type 2-----Variation 0-----Augoadapt Off-----Lattitude 45-----Rudd Damp 1-----Cruise Sp 6Hope this help’s Swards/v “Dream On”“David G. Evans” wrote:PWM,I’d appreciate seeing your autopilot settings. We have an ST4000+ on our Mull 28 and imgaine that the settings would be similar. I’ve never delved into the adjustments; one of those thing I’m going to do the start of every season and then never get around to. Our fluxgate is about even with the mast, but somewhat high - at the top of the V-berth hanging locker. Perhaps I should move it down a bit? Thx,dge----- Original Message ----- From: pwhitmac To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004
5:14 PMSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Autopilot SettingI installed a Raymarine ST400+ on my Hoyt32 around a year ago, and after a fairly typical adjustment period I’m quite happy with it’s performance. One thing I found to be surprising was the factory default setting for rudder response was set to a point where when the boat came about (on pilot) the turn was so violent that it threatened to fling you overboard (or so it felt). Once I adjusted that down to an acceptable level the boat held headings very well.Another thing to consider is the location of the fluxgate compass. Some installers are not too careful about locating it higher that it should be. Naturally the motion of the boat adversly effects the compass the higher it is. Bottom line, the compass should be located as close to the roll center of the boat as possible.This pilot also has the neat capability of receiving NMEA 0183 data from your mast head
wind instrument. I hooked mine up and now have a pretty good “wind vane” steering system, although it does sometime get confused in light “flukey” conditions. I’ll be happy to send my settings for my Hoyt32 to anyone who wants them.PWM-- In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Mark&Peg wrote:> List;> > I’m trying to find the magic settings for an ST4000 autopilot on an > F35. I’ve even read the instructions (shows you how desperate I am) and > spun the compass and tried every combination of rudder gain and sea > state settings and the boat still tracks like a drunken sailor. Any > help would be much appreciated. Thanks.> > Mark & Peg> > F35, FreeRadicalYahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENTvar lrec_target=“_top”;var lrec_URL = new Array();lrec_URL[1] =
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unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:freedomyachts2003-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYour use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [This message contained attachments]___________________________________________________Message: 5 Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 20:41:50 -0700 (PDT)From: Paul McFadden Subject: Re: Re: Autopilot SettingSward,If in fact you have your pilot “drive type” feature set at 2, you may want to change it to “1”. The “2” setting is for hydraulic drives, while the “1” setting is for Mechanical drives, which I assume is what you have. My settings are as follows: Rudder gain=3, Response=1, Turn limit=20deg, Rudder align.=0, Off course alarm=20deg., Auto trim=1, Drive type=1, Lat=33, Rudder dampening=1, Cruise speed=5. I have my auto tack
angle set at the default 100deg. I’m thinking of changing it to 105deg to see if it foots off better on the new tack. We’ll see.Hope this helps anyone who’s interested.PWMSward wrote:After mine was installed and I tried it out, adjusted it, and couldn’t get her from “snaking” all over, I contacted Raymarine and these are the settings they suggested and it’s pretty much on track now:Cal Lock-OFF-----Rudd gain 2-----Response 2-----Turn Rate 30-----Align Rud 0----- Rud Limit 23-----Off Course 20-----Auto Tack 100%-----Auto Trim 2-----Drive type 2-----Variation 0-----Augoadapt Off-----Lattitude 45-----Rudd Damp 1-----Cruise Sp 6Hope this help’s Swards/v “Dream On”“David G. Evans” wrote:PWM,I’d appreciate seeing your autopilot settings. We have an ST4000+ on our Mull 28 and imgaine that the settings would be similar. I’ve never delved into the adjustments; one of those
thing I’m going to do the start of every season and then never get around to. Our fluxgate is about even with the mast, but somewhat high - at the top of the V-berth hanging locker. Perhaps I should move it down a bit? Thx,dge----- Original Message ----- From: pwhitmac To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 5:14 PMSubject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Autopilot SettingI installed a Raymarine ST400+ on my Hoyt32 around a year ago, and after a fairly typical adjustment period I’m quite happy with it’s performance. One thing I found to be surprising was the factory default setting for rudder response was set to a point where when the boat came about (on pilot) the turn was so violent that it threatened to fling you overboard (or so it felt). Once I adjusted that down to an acceptable level the boat held headings very well.Another thing to consider is the location of the fluxgate compass.
Some installers are not too careful about locating it higher that it should be. Naturally the motion of the boat adversly effects the compass the higher it is. Bottom line, the compass should be located as close to the roll center of the boat as possible.This pilot also has the neat capability of receiving NMEA 0183 data from your mast head wind instrument. I hooked mine up and now have a pretty good “wind vane” steering system, although it does sometime get confused in light “flukey” conditions. I’ll be happy to send my settings for my Hoyt32 to anyone who wants them.PWM-- In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Mark&Peg wrote:> List;> > I’m trying to find the magic settings for an ST4000 autopilot on an > F35. I’ve even read the instructions (shows you how desperate I am) and > spun the compass and tried every combination of rudder gain and sea > state
settings and the boat still tracks like a drunken sailor. Any > help would be much appreciated. Thanks.> > Mark & Peg> > F35, FreeRadicalYahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENTvar lrec_target="top";var lrec_URL = new Array();lrec_URL[1] = "http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129ohpv1k/M=296967.5286862.6394559.3294649/D=groups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1092004293/A=2181364/R=0/id=flashurl/SIG=1304ck1na/*http://www.sodaclubusa.com/referrer.asp?redirect=rv_boat_camp.asp&referrer=0002_0015_0178_0002";var link=“javascript:LRECopenWindow(1)”;var lrec_flashfile = 'http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/so/sodaclub/hm_ad_300x250_263_060804.swf?clickTAG=‘+link+’';var lrec_altURL = "http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129ohpv1k/M=296967.5286862.6394559.3294649/D=groups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1092004293/A=2181364/R=1/id=altimgurl/SIG=1304ck1na/*http://www.sodaclubusa.com/referrer.asp?redirect=rv_boat_camp.asp&referrer=0002_0015_0178_0002";var
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Posted by gjschouten (schouten@…>)
Al versus Carbon.
Years ago I met the skipper of a UK built F35 at the marina near Pin
Mill on the River Orwell.
He lost both Al masts when rolled 90 degrees of the coast of Norway.
Freedom UK replaced the masts free of charge.
Later he lost another Al mast on the English South Coast. By then the
yard had gone out of business. He then purchased two new carbon masts
at TP.
Also, I have seen two F35’s sails behind each other, one with Al and
one with Carbon masts. The Al masts bent (sideways) considerably more.
Something to think of when ordering new sails. Mast bent is bad news
for up wind performance.
Good luck with the descison making process.
Gio
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, james hendrickson
<jademist12@y…> wrote:
Noticed many concerns of Au spars (aluminium) My ck40 has a good
pair, recently surveyed to be of original good condition. How many
large commercial jets aircraft use
similiar material in the main wing spars ? maybe we should stop
flying on a/c of more than 500 hrs of flight time ? I, myself feel
they are good for more than a few flexural stresses… regards, Jimfreedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com wrote:
There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
- Re: Frigoboat Refrigeration
From: “katorpus”- Re: questions, questions, and more questions
From: “katorpus”- Re: questions, questions, and more questions
From: “rick_simonds”- Re: Re: Autopilot Setting
From: Sward- Re: Re: Autopilot Setting
From: Paul McFadden
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 18:31:56 -0000
From: “katorpus”
Subject: Re: Frigoboat Refrigeration— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
wrote:I considered the head mount as well. After measuring, I wasn’t
sure I
could meet the distance requirements if I did that.Most of these come with 12’ to 12.5’ of pre-charged tubing.
Considering that your only “distance” is a straight shot aft that
runs the width of the “big ice box” and 1/2 the width of the
“little ice box” plus the distance within the head compartment
itself, you oughta have MORE than enough. My sugggestion would be to
go straight out the back of the “little box” into the galley locker,
then thru the head/galley bulkhead into the undersink cabinet, then
aft between the back of the undersink compartment and the holding
tank. You could then seal the penetration into the box itself from
BOTH sides (inside and from within the galley locker)…and ditto
the bulkhead penetration. You MIGHT even manage to drill the holes
for this without using a right-angle drill.I’d sure think twice before dumping all that heat into the
saloon…but then again, I’m on the Texas Gulf Coast. In any case,
the further you get the heat from the box itself, the better things
will work. You might even run a duct with a mushroom vent straight
up thru the head storage locker and thru the deck. (just don’t bore
into the breakwater base from down below)
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 19:29:52 -0000
From: “katorpus”
Subject: Re: questions, questions, and more questionsLance
Rest assured that the blisters AREN’T just in the paint. My F40
(Hull 61 of the 63 built) had 'em BAD when I bought it 7 years ago.Briefly, here’s what I did: My boat had essentially been in the
water 24/7/(365 x 16) at this point…WARM water, at that.Peeled ALL the gel coat below the water line. Ground out the weepy
spots with an angle grinder, since it became readily apparent that
the resin in the weepy spots was useless.Dried the boat by using a steam cleaner (raises the hull temp,
driving out the moisture…also gets rid of the gunk that continues
to weep out of the weepy spots) This was a 6 month out-of-water
process that went from July until late November on the Texas Gulf
Coast. The steam cleaning was done at least weekly throughout that
period. Bear in mind this was a TRUE steam cleaner…not a “hotsy”
type hot water high pressure washer.My rudder was wet enough that it drained water for days after I
drilled holes into it near the bottom. You need at least one hole up
high.Once the moisture meter showed consistent readings throughout (I
really DON’T think I had saturation of the balsa core anywhere), we
went back with a new layer of mat and 5 coats of vinylester, topped
off by Interprotect 1000/2000 epoxy, then two bottom coats of RED
Petit Trinidad (70%+ copper).Subsequent haulouts have shown consistent moisture readings and NO
recurrent blistering. I’m HAPPY.Total cost of this part of the project was about $6000 for labor and
materials (7 years ago). The yard I used (Cove Harbor in Rockport,
TX) charged less per month to be on stands in the yard than the
local marinas were charging for a slip). Thus, I didn’t factor this
into the cost.Yard crews did ALL of the work and the yard provided the steam
cleaner.Winter onboard in Boston Harbor???..WOW! You oughta be able to
write a book on that one. Check out the Flagship Marine website for
A/C that ISN’T reverse cycle. They seem to have a good product
(Coast Guard keeps going back for more) at reasonable prices. They
regularly sell used units on e-bay as well (search on marine air
conditioner). I’d go for something between 16,000 btu and 18,500.
(Sorry, Brian Guptil, but if I’m gonna cool the boat, I want it to
be something cooler than 80 degrees). My boat has no A/C at present,
but I’ve been plotting and scheming and it’s on the “near horizon”.As another commentary on blister…mine had (still has) numerous
blisters above and below the rub rail…well ABOVE the water line. I
left them alone. They exist only in the area of aft quarter and only
on the port side. This…to me…points more at blistering
resulting from errors during layup than to water intrusion reaction
(Sorry about that, Tillotson Pearson, but if you’re reading this,
what ELSE could it be?)
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 21:05:32 -0000
From: “rick_simonds”
Subject: Re: questions, questions, and more questions“…Check out the Flagship Marine website for A/C that ISN’T reverse
cycle…”One “nay” vote for Flagship Marine here. I have a 16,000 BTU unit in
my 32 and I’m disappointed with the A/C performance. 16k should be
plenty but mine doesn’t come close to keeping up with the Tallahassee
summertime heat. Without question it’s nothin’ but HOT here, in the
90’s from 10 AM to 6 PM every single day from June 1st to October
1st, but I’m getting A/C performance more like a 10,000 BTU unit. It
can’t keep up. I should be doing much better than I am.I’m completely outside my knowledge base about A/C but I’ve had
people look at it and I’ve tried whatever seemed reasonable. I’ve
talked to the Flagship guys repeatedly and they only say if there’s a
15 degree difference between the temperature of the air going into
the unit and the air coming out, it works as far as they’re
concerned. There is that much difference with mine but I’m not
getting cool. Others with bigger boats and 16k units are walking
around in sweaters.The resistance heat in a Flagship unit is a bit different, too. The
air coming out isn’t hot, it’s warm. That’s OK, it ultimately heats
up the boat, but it does so slowly and you can’t huddle by a vent
when you get back to the dock and you’re freezing your a__ off.
Again, the heat works, but slowly.I thought I did my homework on this purchase and Flagship does have
some nice features: it’s mostly stainless, it’s quiet, resistance
heat is simpler, it uses a standard thermostat, etc. I also thought I
was buying a unit of more than ample size but if you work through the
numbers at the Flagship website they seem to be recommending much
larger capacity than any other manufacturer. I didn’t really directly
compare this until mine was already bought and installed.I haven’t found another owner of a Flagship unit to compare notes
with but, so far, put this Flagship Marine owner in the “nay” column.
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 15:31:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sward
Subject: Re: Re: Autopilot SettingAfter mine was installed and I tried it out, adjusted it, and
couldn’t get her from “snaking” all over, I contacted Raymarine and
these are the settings they suggested and it’s pretty much on track now:Cal Lock-OFF-----Rudd gain 2-----Response 2-----Turn Rate
30-----Align Rud 0----- Rud Limit 23-----Off Course 20-----Auto Tack
100%-----Auto Trim 2-----Drive type 2-----Variation 0-----Augoadapt
Off-----Lattitude 45-----Rudd Damp 1-----Cruise Sp 6Hope this help’s
Sward
s/v “Dream On”“David G. Evans” wrote:
PWM,
I’d appreciate seeing your autopilot settings. We have an ST4000+ on
our Mull 28 and imgaine that the settings would be similar. I’ve never
delved into the adjustments; one of those thing I’m going to do the
start of every season and then never get around to. Our fluxgate is
about even with the mast, but somewhat high - at the top of the
V-berth hanging locker. Perhaps I should move it down a bit?
Thx,
dge
----- Original Message -----
From: pwhitmac
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Autopilot SettingI installed a Raymarine ST400+ on my Hoyt32 around a year ago,
and after a fairly typical adjustment period I’m quite happy with
it’s performance. One thing I found to be surprising was the factory
default setting for rudder response was set to a point where when
the boat came about (on pilot) the turn was so violent that it
threatened to fling you overboard (or so it felt). Once I adjusted
that down to an acceptable level the boat held headings very well.
Another thing to consider is the location of the fluxgate compass.
Some installers are not too careful about locating it higher that it
should be. Naturally the motion of the boat adversly effects the
compass the higher it is. Bottom line, the compass should be located
as close to the roll center of the boat as possible.
This pilot also has the neat capability of receiving NMEA 0183
data from your mast head wind instrument. I hooked mine up and now
have a pretty good “wind vane” steering system, although it does
sometime get confused in light “flukey” conditions.
I’ll be happy to send my settings for my Hoyt32 to anyone who
wants them.
PWM– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Mark&Peg
wrote:List;
I’m trying to find the magic settings for an ST4000 autopilot on
an
F35. I’ve even read the instructions (shows you how desperate I
am) and
spun the compass and tried every combination of rudder gain and
sea
state settings and the boat still tracks like a drunken sailor.
Any
help would be much appreciated. Thanks.Mark & Peg
F35, FreeRadical
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[This message contained attachments]
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 20:41:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul McFaddenSubject: Re: Re: Autopilot Setting
Sward,
If in fact you have your pilot “drive type” feature set at 2, you
may want to change it to
“1”. The “2” setting is for hydraulic drives, while the “1” setting
is for Mechanical drives, which I assume is what you have.My settings are as follows: Rudder gain=3, Response=1, Turn
limit=20deg, Rudder align.=0, Off course alarm=20deg., Auto trim=1,
Drive type=1, Lat=33, Rudder dampening=1, Cruise speed=5. I have my
auto tack angle set at the default 100deg. I’m thinking of changing it
to 105deg to see if it foots off better on the new tack. We’ll see.Hope this helps anyone who’s interested.
PWM
Sward wrote:
After mine was installed and I tried it out, adjusted it, and
couldn’t get her from “snaking” all over, I contacted Raymarine and
these are the settings they suggested and it’s pretty much on track now:Cal Lock-OFF-----Rudd gain 2-----Response 2-----Turn Rate
30-----Align Rud 0----- Rud Limit 23-----Off Course 20-----Auto Tack
100%-----Auto Trim 2-----Drive type 2-----Variation 0-----Augoadapt
Off-----Lattitude 45-----Rudd Damp 1-----Cruise Sp 6Hope this help’s
Sward
s/v “Dream On”“David G. Evans” wrote:
PWM,
I’d appreciate seeing your autopilot settings. We have an ST4000+ on
our Mull 28 and imgaine that the settings would be similar. I’ve never
delved into the adjustments; one of those thing I’m going to do the
start of every season and then never get around to. Our fluxgate is
about even with the mast, but somewhat high - at the top of the
V-berth hanging locker. Perhaps I should move it down a bit?
Thx,
dge
----- Original Message -----
From: pwhitmac
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: Autopilot SettingI installed a Raymarine ST400+ on my Hoyt32 around a year ago,
and after a fairly typical adjustment period I’m quite happy with
it’s performance. One thing I found to be surprising was the factory
default setting for rudder response was set to a point where when
the boat came about (on pilot) the turn was so violent that it
threatened to fling you overboard (or so it felt). Once I adjusted
that down to an acceptable level the boat held headings very well.
Another thing to consider is the location of the fluxgate compass.
Some installers are not too careful about locating it higher that it
should be. Naturally the motion of the boat adversly effects the
compass the higher it is. Bottom line, the compass should be located
as close to the roll center of the boat as possible.
This pilot also has the neat capability of receiving NMEA 0183
data from your mast head wind instrument. I hooked mine up and now
have a pretty good “wind vane” steering system, although it does
sometime get confused in light “flukey” conditions.
I’ll be happy to send my settings for my Hoyt32 to anyone who
wants them.
PWM– In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, Mark&Peg
wrote:List;
I’m trying to find the magic settings for an ST4000 autopilot on
an
F35. I’ve even read the instructions (shows you how desperate I
am) and
spun the compass and tried every combination of rudder gain and
sea
state settings and the boat still tracks like a drunken sailor.
Any
help would be much appreciated. Thanks.Mark & Peg
F35, FreeRadical
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