Re: F 40 Centerboard (and request for Mark Edwards comment)

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
At one time, our centerboard was covered in fiberglass. Most of that has broken away. I’ve been able to look up into the slot and see a good bit of metal still around the pin. The pin also looks to be in good condition. This friday at two the yard will hoist her high in the slings of the travel lift and block her over the weekend. We have till monday morning to wire brush ospho and paint the centerboard. That will have to do for a couple more years. GeorgeHerman Schiller <hschiller2@…> wrote: I have an early '80s brochure that states the centerboard weighs 2000 lbs., and is made of cast iron covered with epoxy and fiberglass. Total ballast was 6000 lbs. Later brochures just state that ballast is 6000 lbs, and the board is made of composite. Herm — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@…> wrote: > > Jay, George, > > I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of > the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that > the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast > weight or CB weight is not mentioned. > > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen” > <svfantasy@> wrote: >

George, > > > > I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San > Francisco > > Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my > > centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her > three > > years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s > encased in > > fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom > of the > > board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any > clunking > > of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting > pennant (all > > braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to > the aft > > edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the > deck just > > forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the
cockpit > cabin top > > where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch. > It lifts > > fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs. > Everywhere I > > find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is > listed between > > 3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to > 2000 lbs. > > When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll > > determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll > also measure > > her for her draft. > > > > As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than > what I > > expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are > full battened > > with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the > original > > commissioning
document thats lists all specs for hardware, running > rigging, > > sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail > Handling > > Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very > interesting > > primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I > can make > > copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may > be > > interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to > you. Just > > cover the copying and mail cost. > > > > I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the > first reef in > > at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to > overpower > > the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort, > I then > > reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get
the second reef at about > 30 knots. > > These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending > upon sea > > conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have > fairly good > > winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on > the > > quarter. > > > > Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. > > > > On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@> wrote: > > > > > > Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I > thought I > > > would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a > lot better > > > about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by > Katorpus as best I > > > can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a > say about
how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s > making it > > > tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the > mean time with > > > doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay > another round > > > trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us > just to pick it > > > up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it > and take it to > > > a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out > of there as > > > soon as possible. > > > > > > I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very > friendly and > > > knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy > named Paul > > > Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already >
familiar > > > with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard > where our > > > boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing > Freedoms. > > > > > > Thanks for so much help so fast. > > > > > > If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears! > > > > > > George and Kerri > > > > > > > > > katorpus <jrb@> wrote: > > > > > > George > > > > > > I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never > > > posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it > briefly > > > > > > 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the > axle > > > that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard
box (at the > > > bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting > sideways > > > into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its > > > mounting. > > > > > > 2) Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to > figure > > > a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting > the tip > > > on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the > leading > > > edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so > it > > > won’t move). > > > > > > If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a > jack to > > > accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can > see of > > > the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. >

If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t > > > move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a > > > problem. > > > > > > 3) If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air) > > > bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put > > > a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go > > > away. > > > > > > Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the > > > board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that > area > > > when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. > > > > > > If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the > bottom > > > of the box, then you might want to go ahead
and pull it out and > re-do > > > the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back > > > together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1) > > > > > > ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this > > > discussion, do you have any comments? > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your > pocket:<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go? > refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > – > > Jay Glen ki6jtk > > s/v Fantasy > > Freedom 40
Cat-Ketch > > San Francisco Bay Area > > >
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you’re surfing.

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
George,Sorry, but I have to admit I forgot to email the sail trim document to you. I promise, I’ll have it done no later than Monday.Jay GlenFreedom 40 CKOn 7/27/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:




At one time, our centerboard was covered in fiberglass. Most of that has broken away. I’ve been able to look up into the slot and see a good bit of metal still around the pin. The pin also looks to be in good condition. This friday at two the yard will hoist her high in the slings of the travel lift and block her over the weekend. We have till monday morning to wire brush ospho and paint the centerboard. That will have to do for a couple more years. GeorgeHerman Schiller <hschiller2@suddenlink.net>
wrote: I have an early '80s brochure that states the centerboard weighs 2000 lbs., and is made of cast iron covered with epoxy and fiberglass. Total ballast was 6000 lbs. Later brochures just state that ballast is 6000 lbs, and the board is made of composite. Herm — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
, “michel.capel” <michel.capel@…> wrote: > > Jay, George, > > I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of > the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that > the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast > weight or CB weight is not mentioned. > > > — In
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen” > <svfantasy@> wrote: >

George, > > > > I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San > Francisco > > Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my
centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her > three > > years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s > encased in > > fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom > of the > > board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any > clunking > > of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting > pennant (all
braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to > the aft > > edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the > deck just > > forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the
cockpit > cabin top > > where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch. > It lifts > > fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs. > Everywhere I
find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is > listed between > > 3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to > 2000 lbs. > > When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll > > determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll > also measure > > her for her draft. > > > > As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than > what I > > expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are > full battened > > with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the > original > > commissioning
document thats lists all specs for hardware, running > rigging, > > sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail > Handling > > Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very > interesting > > primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I > can make > > copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may > be > > interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to > you. Just > > cover the copying and mail cost. > > > > I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the > first reef in > > at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to > overpower > > the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort, > I then > > reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get
the second reef at about > 30 knots. > > These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending > upon sea > > conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have > fairly good > > winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on > the > > quarter. > > > > Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@> wrote: > > > > > > Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I > thought I > > > would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a > lot better > > > about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by > Katorpus as best I > > > can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a > say about
how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s > making it > > > tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the > mean time with > > > doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay > another round > > > trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us > just to pick it > > > up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it > and take it to
a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out > of there as > > > soon as possible. > > > > > > I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very > friendly and > > > knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy > named Paul > > > Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already >
familiar > > > with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard > where our > > > boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing > Freedoms.

Thanks for so much help so fast. > > > > > > If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears! > > > > > > George and Kerri

katorpus <jrb@> wrote: > > > > > > George > > > > > > I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never
posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it > briefly > > > > > > 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the > axle > > > that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard
box (at the > > > bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting > sideways > > > into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its > > > mounting.

  1. Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to > figure > > > a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting > the tip
    on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the > leading > > > edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so > it
    won’t move). > > > > > > If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a > jack to > > > accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can > see of > > > the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. >
    If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t > > > move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a > > > problem.
  2. If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air) > > > bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put > > > a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go
    away. > > > > > > Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the > > > board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean
    that > area > > > when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. > > > > > > If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the > bottom
    of the box, then you might want to go ahead
    and pull it out and > re-do > > > the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back > > > together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1) > > >
    ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this > > > discussion, do you have any comments? > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------
    Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your > pocket:<
    http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go? > refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
    – > > Jay Glen ki6jtk > > s/v Fantasy > > Freedom 40
    Cat-Ketch > > San Francisco Bay Area > > > Get the Yahoo! toolbar and
    be alerted to new email wherever you’re surfing.


    – Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Absolutely no rush whatsoever. Be sure to tell us where to send a check and how much to cover the copy and mailing.GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote: George,Sorry, but I have to admit I forgot to email the sail trim document to you. I promise, I’ll have it done no later than Monday.Jay GlenFreedom 40 CKOn 7/27/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@yahoo.com>
wrote: At one time, our centerboard was covered in fiberglass. Most of that has broken away. I’ve been able to look up into the slot and see a good bit of metal still around the pin. The pin also looks to be in good condition. This friday at two the yard will hoist her high in the slings of the travel lift and block her over the weekend. We have till monday morning to wire brush ospho and paint the centerboard. That will have to do for a couple more years. GeorgeHerman Schiller <hschiller2@suddenlink.net> wrote: I have an early ‘80s brochure that states the centerboard weighs 2000 lbs., and is made of cast iron covered with epoxy and fiberglass. Total ballast was 6000 lbs. Later brochures just state that ballast is 6000 lbs, and the board is made of composite. Herm — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com , “michel.capel” <michel.capel@…> wrote: > > Jay, George, > > I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of > the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that > the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast > weight or CB weight is not mentioned. > > > — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen” >
<svfantasy@> wrote: > > > > George, > > > > I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San > Francisco > > Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my > > centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her > three > > years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s > encased in > > fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom > of the > > board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any > clunking > > of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting > pennant (all > > braided line 1/2 ") when I purchased her. The pennant connects to > the aft > > edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the > deck just > > forward of the
mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit > cabin top > > where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch. > It lifts > > fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs. > Everywhere I > > find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is > listed between > > 3’ 9" to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to > 2000 lbs. > > When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll > > determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll > also measure > > her for her draft. > > > > As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than > what I > > expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are > full battened > > with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the

original > > commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware, running > rigging, > > sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail > Handling > > Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very > interesting > > primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I > can make > > copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may > be > > interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to > you. Just > > cover the copying and mail cost. > > > > I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the > first reef in > > at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to > overpower > > the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort, > I then >
reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at about > 30 knots. > > These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending > upon sea > > conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have > fairly good > > winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on > the > > quarter. > > > > Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. > > > > On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@> wrote: > > > > > > Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I > thought I > > > would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a > lot better > > > about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by > Katorpus as best I > > > can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we
didn’t have a > say about > > > how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s > making it > > > tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the > mean time with > > > doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay > another round > > > trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us > just to pick it > > > up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it > and take it to > > > a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out > of there as > > > soon as possible. > > > > > > I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very > friendly and > > > knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy > named Paul > > > Dennis of Warren River Boatworks.
You guys are probably already > familiar > > > with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard > where our > > > boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing > Freedoms. > > > > > > Thanks for so much help so fast. > > > > > > If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears! > > > > > > George and Kerri > > > > > > > > > katorpus <jrb@> wrote: > > > > > > George > > > > > > I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never > > > posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it > briefly > > > > > > 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the > axle > > > that it
couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the > > > bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting > sideways > > > into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its > > > mounting. > > > > > > 2) Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to > figure > > > a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting > the tip > > > on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the > leading > > > edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so > it > > > won’t move). > > > > > > If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a > jack to > > > accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can > see of > > > the upper end of the
board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. > > > > > > If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t > > > move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a > > > problem. > > > > > > 3) If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air) > > > bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put > > > a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go > > > away. > > > > > > Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the > > > board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that > area > > > when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. > > > > > > If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the > bottom

of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and > re-do > > > the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back > > > together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1) > > > > > > ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this > > > discussion, do you have any comments? > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your > pocket:< http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go? > refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > – > > Jay
Glen ki6jtk > > s/v Fantasy > > Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch > > San Francisco Bay Area > > > Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you’re surfing. – Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area
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