Re: F 40 Centerboard (and request for Mark Edwards comment)

Archives
1

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

George

I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never
posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it briefly

  1. The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the axle
    that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the
    bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting sideways
    into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its
    mounting.

  2. Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to figure
    a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting the tip
    on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the leading
    edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so it
    won’t move).

If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a jack to
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can see of
the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”.

If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t
move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a
problem.

  1. If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air)
    bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put
    a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go
    away.

Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the
board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that area
when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there.

If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the bottom
of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and re-do
the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back
together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1)

ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this
discussion, do you have any comments?

2

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I thought I would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a lot better about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by Katorpus as best I can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a say about how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s making it tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the mean time with doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay another round trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us just to pick it up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it and take it to a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out of there as soon as possible. I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very friendly and knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy named Paul Dennis of
Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already familiar with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard where our boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing Freedoms. Thanks for so much help so fast.If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears! George and Kerrikatorpus <jrb@…> wrote: George I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never posted here or appeared in my
mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it briefly 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the axle that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting sideways into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its mounting. 2) Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to figure a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting the tip on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the leading edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so it won’t move). If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a jack to accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can see of the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t move “far” (a
subjective determination), then you don’t have a problem. 3) If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air) bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go away. Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that area when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the bottom of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and re-do the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1) ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this discussion, do you have any comments?
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos more.

3

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
George,I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San Francisco Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her three years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s encased in fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom of the board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any clunking of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting pennant (all braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to the aft edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the deck just forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit cabin top where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch. It lifts fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs. Everywhere I find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is listed between 3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to 2000 lbs. When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll also measure her for her draft.
As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than what I expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are full battened with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the original commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware, running rigging, sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail Handling Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very interesting primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I can make copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may be interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to you. Just cover the copying and mail cost.
I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the first reef in at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to overpower the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort, I then reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at about 30 knots. These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending upon sea conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have fairly good winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on the quarter.
Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…

wrote:




Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I thought I would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a lot better about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by Katorpus as best I can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a say about how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s making it tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the mean time with doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay another round trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us just to pick it up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it and take it to a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out of there as soon as possible. I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very friendly and knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy named Paul Dennis of
Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already familiar with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard where our boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing Freedoms.
Thanks for so much help so fast.If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears! George and Kerrikatorpus <
jrb@…> wrote: George I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never posted here or appeared in my
mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it briefly 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the axle that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting sideways into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its mounting. 2) Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to figure a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting the tip on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the leading edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so it won’t move). If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a jack to accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can see of the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t move “far” (a
subjective determination), then you don’t have a problem. 3) If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air) bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go away. Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that area when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the bottom of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and re-do the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1) ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this
discussion, do you have any comments? Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the
Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos more.


– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

4

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

"Plus, I have a copy of “Sail Handling Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for
Freedom Yachts. Its a very interesting primer on how to trim and
handle the sails. If you would like, I can make copies and send them
to you (and anyone else in the group who may be interested). Just send
me your address and I’ll get them out to you. Just cover the copying
and mail cost. "

That would be very kind of you. I’d love to have those “Sail Handling
Hints” Could you scan them and email? If you have no scanner I’d pay
you to have Kinko’s or someplace scan them and email them.

I’m certain that a change to the centerboard was made sometime after
our boat was built. Ours is iron or steel with nothing encasing it.
I’m going to investigate further tomorrow.

BTW our boat has Net 13 as it’s coast guard documented weight. So…
that extra 6000 pounds is coming from somewhere eh? heh heh

Thanks again

George

5

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “George Huffman”
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

BTW our boat has Net 13 as it’s coast guard documented weight.
So…
that extra 6000 pounds is coming from somewhere eh? heh heh

My boat was not documented before I bought it…they went with what I
told them. It wasn’t weighed or measured by anybody.

I looked up (years ago) some USCG documented recreational vessel
database (by manufacturer) and found all the Freedom 40’s that were
out there…nearly every one had different stuff…from length to
weight etc.

For example…I think these boats were constructed to a “legal
length” of 39’6", which allowed a different light scheme (and
probably some other technical advantages of which I’m unaware.)

Mine originally had red/green lights in the hullsides which were (at
some point prior to my ownership) removed and glassed over and
replaced by a single bicolor light that is mounted below the top rail
of the bow pulpit. You can see the patch from inside the anchor
locker (it wasn’t cored like the rest of the hull) when the sun is
shining from that side of the boat.

Bottom line…the factory didn’t document these vessels, so take any
numbers with a large grain of salt.

6

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

Excellent point. Also there may actually be several different weights
of the boats as they were produced and improved upon over the years.
I’ll add this to my growing list of questions.

One nice consequence of online discussion is that it leaves a trace
that can form a kind of knowledge base.

George

7

Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)

Jay, George,

I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of
the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that
the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast
weight or CB weight is not mentioned.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen”
<svfantasy@…> wrote:

George,

I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San
Francisco
Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my
centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her
three
years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s
encased in
fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom
of the
board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any
clunking
of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting
pennant (all
braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to
the aft
edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the
deck just
forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit
cabin top
where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch.
It lifts
fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs.
Everywhere I
find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is
listed between
3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to
2000 lbs.
When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll
determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll
also measure
her for her draft.

As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than
what I
expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are
full battened
with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the
original
commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware, running
rigging,
sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail
Handling
Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very
interesting
primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I
can make
copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may
be
interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to
you. Just
cover the copying and mail cost.

I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the
first reef in
at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to
overpower
the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort,
I then
reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at about
30 knots.
These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending
upon sea
conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have
fairly good
winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on
the
quarter.

Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I
thought I
would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a
lot better
about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by
Katorpus as best I
can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a
say about
how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s
making it
tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the
mean time with
doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay
another round
trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us
just to pick it
up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it
and take it to
a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out
of there as
soon as possible.

I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very
friendly and
knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy
named Paul
Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already
familiar
with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard
where our
boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing
Freedoms.

Thanks for so much help so fast.

If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears!

George and Kerri

katorpus <jrb@…> wrote:

George

I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never
posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it
briefly

  1. The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the
    axle
    that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the
    bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting
    sideways
    into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its
    mounting.

  2. Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to
    figure
    a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting
    the tip
    on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the
    leading
    edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so
    it
    won’t move).

If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a
jack to
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can
see of
the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”.

If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t
move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a
problem.

  1. If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air)
    bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put
    a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go
    away.

Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the
board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that
area
when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there.

If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the
bottom
of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and
re-do
the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back
together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1)

ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this
discussion, do you have any comments?

Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your
pocket:<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?
refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more.

–
Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v Fantasy
Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch
San Francisco Bay Area

8

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
Michel, George,I think I have the same or a similar document. Mine says the internal ballast is 4000 lbs and the centerboard is 2000 lbs, for a total of 6000 lbs. I just have a hard time believing I’m lifting 2000 lbs when I lift the centerboard with my Barient 27-48 self-tailing winch.
On 7/20/07, michel.capel <michel.capel@…> wrote:




Jay, George,

I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of
the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that
the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast
weight or CB weight is not mentioned.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen”
<svfantasy@…> wrote:

George,

I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San
Francisco
Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my
centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her
three
years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s
encased in
fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom
of the
board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any
clunking
of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting
pennant (all
braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to
the aft
edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the
deck just
forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit
cabin top
where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch.
It lifts
fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs.
Everywhere I
find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is
listed between
3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to
2000 lbs.
When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll
determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll
also measure
her for her draft.

As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than
what I
expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are
full battened
with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the
original
commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware, running
rigging,
sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail
Handling
Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very
interesting
primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I
can make
copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may
be
interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to
you. Just
cover the copying and mail cost.

I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the
first reef in
at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to
overpower
the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort,
I then
reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at about
30 knots.
These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending
upon sea
conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have
fairly good
winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on
the
quarter.

Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I
thought I
would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a
lot better
about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by
Katorpus as best I
can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a
say about
how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s
making it
tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the
mean time with
doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay
another round
trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us
just to pick it
up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it
and take it to
a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out
of there as
soon as possible.

I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very
friendly and
knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy
named Paul
Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already
familiar
with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard
where our
boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing
Freedoms.

Thanks for so much help so fast.

If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears!

George and Kerri

katorpus <jrb@…> wrote:

George

I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never
posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it
briefly

  1. The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the
    axle
    that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the
    bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting
    sideways
    into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its
    mounting.

  2. Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to
    figure
    a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting
    the tip
    on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the
    leading
    edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so
    it
    won’t move).

If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a
jack to
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can
see of
the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”.

If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t
move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a
problem.

  1. If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air)
    bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put
    a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go
    away.

Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the
board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that
area
when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there.

If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the
bottom
of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and
re-do
the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back
together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1)

ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this
discussion, do you have any comments?

Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your
pocket:<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?
refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more.

–
Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v Fantasy
Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch
San Francisco Bay Area





– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

9

Posted by george huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)
2000 pounds I could kind of believe. And with the pin at one end and the pennant at the other end you would only be lifting around half. Still a considerable load… With a single purchase pulley at the centerboard attachment it would be half again so around 500 pounds… GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote: Michel, George,I think I have the same or a similar document. Mine says the internal ballast is 4000 lbs and the centerboard is 2000 lbs, for a total of 6000 lbs. I just have a hard
time believing I’m lifting 2000 lbs when I lift the centerboard with my Barient 27-48 self-tailing winch. On 7/20/07, michel.capel <michel.capel@yahoo.com> wrote: Jay, George, I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast weight or CB weight is not mentioned. — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen” <svfantasy@…> wrote: > > George, >

I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San Francisco > Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my > centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her three > years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s encased in > fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom of the > board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any clunking > of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting pennant (all > braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to the aft > edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the deck just > forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit cabin top > where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch. It lifts > fairly easy,but I’m
guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs. Everywhere I > find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is listed between > 3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to 2000 lbs. > When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll > determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll also measure > her for her draft. > > As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than what I > expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are full battened > with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the original > commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware, running rigging, > sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail Handling > Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very interesting >
primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I can make > copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may be > interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to you. Just > cover the copying and mail cost. > > I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the first reef in > at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to overpower > the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort, I then > reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at about 30 knots. > These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending upon sea > conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have fairly good > winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on the > quarter. > > Do not hesitate to contact
me if you have any questions. > > On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote: > > > > Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I thought I > > would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a lot better > > about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by Katorpus as best I > > can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a say about > > how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s making it > > tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the mean time with > > doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay another round > > trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us just to pick it > > up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it and take it to > > a
more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out of there as > > soon as possible. > > > > I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very friendly and > > knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy named Paul > > Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already familiar > > with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard where our > > boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing Freedoms. > > > > Thanks for so much help so fast. > > > > If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears! > > > > George and Kerri > > > > > > katorpus <jrb@…> wrote: > > > > George > > > > I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which
somehow never > > posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it briefly > > > > 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the axle > > that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the > > bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting sideways > > into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its > > mounting. > > > > 2) Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to figure > > a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting the tip > > on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the leading > > edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so it > > won’t move). > > > > If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a jack to > >
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can see of > > the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. > > > > If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t > > move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a > > problem. > > > > 3) If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air) > > bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put > > a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go > > away. > > > > Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the > > board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that area > > when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. > > > > If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the bottom

of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and re-do > > the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back > > together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1) > > > > ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this > > discussion, do you have any comments? > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket:<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go? refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more. > > > > > > > > > > – > Jay Glen ki6jtk > s/v Fantasy > Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch > San Francisco Bay Area >
– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

10

Posted by Jay Glen (svfantasy@…>)
George,No pully on mine at the centerboard attachment point. Just a shackle the pennant attaches to, then straight to the winch.JayOn 7/20/07,
george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote:




2000 pounds I could kind of believe. And with the pin at one end and the pennant at the other end you would only be lifting around half. Still a considerable load… With a single purchase pulley at the centerboard attachment it would be half again so around 500 pounds… GeorgeJay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote:
Michel, George,I think I have the same or a similar document. Mine says the internal ballast is 4000 lbs and the centerboard is 2000 lbs, for a total of 6000 lbs. I just have a hard
time believing I’m lifting 2000 lbs when I lift the centerboard with my Barient 27-48 self-tailing winch. On 7/20/07, michel.capel <
michel.capel@…> wrote: Jay, George, I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and that the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast weight or CB weight is not mentioned. — In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
, “Jay Glen” <svfantasy@…> wrote: > > George, >

I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San Francisco > Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my > centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her three > years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s encased in > fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the bottom of the > board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any clunking > of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting pennant (all > braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to the aft > edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the deck just > forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit cabin top > where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch. It lifts > fairly easy,but I’m
guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs. Everywhere I > find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is listed between > 3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to 2000 lbs. > When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico, I’ll > determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll also measure > her for her draft.

As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than what I > expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are full battened > with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the original > commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware, running rigging, > sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail Handling > Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very interesting >
primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I can make > copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may be > interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to you. Just > cover the copying and mail cost. > > I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the first reef in > at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not to overpower > the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For comfort, I then > reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at about 30 knots. > These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending upon sea > conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have fairly good > winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells on the > quarter. > > Do not hesitate to contact
me if you have any questions. > > On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@…> wrote: > > > > Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I thought I > > would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a lot better > > about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by Katorpus as best I > > can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have a say about > > how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s making it > > tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the mean time with > > doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay another round > > trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us just to pick it > > up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it and take it to > > a
more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out of there as > > soon as possible. > > > > I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very friendly and
knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy named Paul > > Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably already familiar > > with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the yard where our > > boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing Freedoms. > > > > Thanks for so much help so fast. > > > > If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all ears!

George and Kerri > > > > > > katorpus <jrb@…> wrote: > > > > George > > > > I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which
somehow never > > posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it briefly > > > > 1) The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the axle > > that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the
bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting sideways > > into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its > > mounting. > > > > 2) Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to figure > > a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting the tip > > on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the leading > > edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still” so it > > won’t move). > > > > If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a jack to > >
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can see of > > the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”. > > > > If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or doesn’t
move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a > > problem. > > > > 3) If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air)
bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or put > > a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go > > away. > > > > Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when the
board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean that area > > when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there. > > > > If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the bottom
of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and re-do > > the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back > > together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1)
ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this > > discussion, do you have any comments? > > > > > > ------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket:<
http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go? refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more. > > > > > > > > > > – > Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v Fantasy > Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch > San Francisco Bay Area >
– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-Ketch
San Francisco Bay Area Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads
at Yahoo! Search.


– Jay Glen ki6jtks/v FantasyFreedom 40 Cat-KetchSan Francisco Bay Area

11

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

George

Not to belabor my earlier point, but I didn’t make up the numbers on
the weight of steel plate

Your steel centerboard would STILL have to be the equivalent of 4’ x
8’ x 1.5" of sheet steel in order to weigh 2000#.

And…

The lifting pennant is nowhere near the bottom tip of the blade (not
on mine anyway) and the “pin” end is at least 1/2 of the board width
lower than the upper end of the board, so you aren’t gaining physical
advantage in any system that lifts it without using any “extra”
pulleys/blocks (the single pulley only changes the direction of the
force, it doesn’t provide any mechanical advantage)

The arrangement of the pennant and the pin and the board is actually
giving you a class 3 lever (with reverse mechanical advantage), the
only load being the weight of the “lever” (the board between the
pivot and the bottom tip)…the weight of the portion of the board
extending beyond the pin (to the UPPER end of the board) reduces the
force required to lift the rest of the board, but that ain’t much.

Class 3 Lever:

Load Force Pivot
O____________^__________V





— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, george huffman
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

2000 pounds I could kind of believe. And with the pin at one end
and the pennant at the other end you would only be lifting around
half. Still a considerable load… With a single purchase pulley at
the centerboard attachment it would be half again so around 500
pounds…

12

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

I lost my formatting in the previous explanation…
This should be more clear…

The load is the weight of the board between “O” and “V” (offset by
the weight of the board to the right of “V”)

The mechanical disadvantage goes from zero (if the force is applied
at the point of “O”) to some greater number (the closer it gets
to “V”).

This isn’t a linear increase unless the mass of the lever (the board
with zero added load) is consistent through its length (which it
isn’t, since it’s “shaped”

.

Class 3 Lever:

Load---------Force---------Pivot

O____________^__________V

13

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

All good information. Consider this. My center board is iron. It’s
got big rusty soft welts on it and is very sloppy in the slot. It’s
probably very close to the dimensions you described for 2000 pounds of
steel and perhaps a little larger (I’ll take measurements best I can
this afternoon. It’s quite thick despite rounded edges. The
mechanism on my board for raising and lowering is complicated,
absolutely has a mechanical advantage in pulleys and is hooked to an
electric winch that probably has much more than the 2k pounds capacity
by itself. I can see where the pulley attachment points (in the
fiberglass of the boat) have been repaired but other than that it
looks like it’s been like this from the factory. I’m looking forward
to having the comments of the guy in CT. I’m going to call him on
Monday.

I completely agree with everything you said re-mechanical advantage
and the single pulley thing. The only things I have in defense of my
fuzzy thinking is that I’ve got way too many irons in the fire just
now and trying to get by on too little sleep. Please keep do keep an
eye on me and raise the BS flag as needed! :slight_smile: heh heh

George




— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “katorpus” <jrb@…> wrote:

I lost my formatting in the previous explanation…
This should be more clear…

The load is the weight of the board between “O” and “V” (offset by
the weight of the board to the right of “V”)

The mechanical disadvantage goes from zero (if the force is applied
at the point of “O”) to some greater number (the closer it gets
to “V”).

This isn’t a linear increase unless the mass of the lever (the board
with zero added load) is consistent through its length (which it
isn’t, since it’s “shaped”

.

Class 3 Lever:

Load---------Force---------Pivot

O____________^__________V

14

Posted by Fargo Rousseau (fargo_r@…>)
Not to put too fine a point on it, even an iron board “floats”…that is, has buoyancy. Its density in air is about 7.9 grams/cubic centimeter but it is about 13% lighter in salt water. Lead is about 45% heavier than iron, just for reference. Profiling a steel plate into something approximating a hydrodynamic shape would be a huge challenge. Recasting your board might not be too expensive if you had a decent plug. Your present iron board might be a start if it had a nice shape to begin with. It could be filled with easy shaping foamy fillers and ground to shape…and used as the casting plug. Just an idea.Fargo

15

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

I’m beginning to have a better feeling about the board. I got a good
beam of light on it and worked it back and forth on the pin. The pin
appears to be one inch stainless steel and in good condition. There
also appears to be a substantial amount of the board remaining all
around the pin. Lots of marine growth on the board and in the slot.
The plan for now will be to get the raising/lowering mechanism working
right, then then have the boat hung up in the slings over a weekend
before we launch to let it down and deal with the corrosion control
and protection from marine growth as best we can. I’ll wire brush as
much of it as I can reach and paint it with cold galvanize paint as
someone else suggested. Although I may have to ospho/barrier
coat/bottom paint in order to get any anti fouling effect.

George

16

Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)

I know from documentation and from my own former F33/35 that Freedom
CB designs usually had 2/3 of the ballast in the hull and 1/3 in the
CB. So the 4000 in the hull and the 2000 in the board may be
correct.


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, george huffman
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

2000 pounds I could kind of believe. And with the pin at one end
and the pennant at the other end you would only be lifting around
half. Still a considerable load… With a single purchase pulley at
the centerboard attachment it would be half again so around 500
pounds…

George

Jay Glen <svfantasy@…> wrote:
Michel, George,

I think I have the same or a similar document. Mine says the
internal ballast is 4000 lbs and the centerboard is 2000 lbs, for a
total of 6000 lbs. I just have a hard time believing I’m lifting
2000 lbs when I lift the centerboard with my Barient 27-48 self-
tailing winch.

On 7/20/07, michel.capel <michel.capel@…>
wrote: Jay, George,

I have a set of the original typewritten specification document
of
the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and
that
the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast
weight or CB weight is not mentioned.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen”
<svfantasy@> wrote:

George,

I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on
San
Francisco
Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway,
my
centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought
her
three
years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s
encased in
fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the
bottom
of the
board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice
any
clunking
of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting
pennant (all
braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects
to
the aft
edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the
deck just
forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit
cabin top
where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing
winch.
It lifts
fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs.
Everywhere I
find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is
listed between
3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to
2000 lbs.
When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico,
I’ll
determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll
also measure
her for her draft.

As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than
what I
expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are
full battened
with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have
the
original
commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware,
running
rigging,
sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy
of “Sail
Handling
Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very
interesting
primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like,
I
can make
copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who
may
be
interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to
you. Just
cover the copying and mail cost.

I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the
first reef in
at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not
to
overpower
the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For
comfort,
I then
reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at
about
30 knots.
These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well
depending
upon sea
conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have
fairly good
winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells
on
the
quarter.

Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@> wrote:

Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I
thought I
would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling
a
lot better
about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by
Katorpus as best I
can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t
have a
say about
how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and
it’s
making it
tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the
mean time with
doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay
another round
trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us
just to pick it
up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it
and take it to
a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her
out
of there as
soon as possible.

I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very
friendly and
knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a
guy
named Paul
Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably
already
familiar
with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the
yard
where our
boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing
Freedoms.

Thanks for so much help so fast.

If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all
ears!

George and Kerri

katorpus <jrb@> wrote:

George

I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow
never
posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it
briefly

  1. The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the
    axle
    that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at
    the
    bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting
    sideways
    into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and
    its
    mounting.

  2. Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able
    to
    figure
    a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting
    the tip
    on the ground or other object and levering upwards against
    the
    leading
    edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still”
    so
    it
    won’t move).

If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a
jack to
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can
see of
the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount
of “slop”.

If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or
doesn’t
move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a
problem.

  1. If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm
    air)
    bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or
    put
    a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will
    go
    away.

Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when
the
board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean
that
area
when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there.

If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up”
the
bottom
of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out
and
re-do
the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back
together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1)

ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this
discussion, do you have any comments?

Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your

pocket:<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?

refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more.

–
Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v Fantasy
Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch
San Francisco Bay Area

–
Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v Fantasy
Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch
San Francisco Bay Area

Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

17

Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)

Hmm…so your pivot pin is just 1" thick… I had a 4" pivot pin in
my UK built 1986 F33/35.

If your board is okay, but there is too much slop, you might
consider removing the slop by enlarging the hole in the board and
putting in a thicker pin. And perhaps you could squeeze in some sort
of bearing material.

michel

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “George Huffman”
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

I’m beginning to have a better feeling about the board. I got a
good
beam of light on it and worked it back and forth on the pin. The
pin
appears to be one inch stainless steel and in good condition.
There
also appears to be a substantial amount of the board remaining all
around the pin. Lots of marine growth on the board and in the
slot.
The plan for now will be to get the raising/lowering mechanism
working
right, then then have the boat hung up in the slings over a weekend
before we launch to let it down and deal with the corrosion control
and protection from marine growth as best we can. I’ll wire brush
as
much of it as I can reach and paint it with cold galvanize paint as
someone else suggested. Although I may have to ospho/barrier
coat/bottom paint in order to get any anti fouling effect.

George

18

Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)

If you use galvanizing paint you might get problems putting on an
antifouling paint.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “George Huffman”
<thatboatguy2@…> wrote:

I’m beginning to have a better feeling about the board. I got a
good
beam of light on it and worked it back and forth on the pin. The
pin
appears to be one inch stainless steel and in good condition.
There
also appears to be a substantial amount of the board remaining all
around the pin. Lots of marine growth on the board and in the
slot.
The plan for now will be to get the raising/lowering mechanism
working
right, then then have the boat hung up in the slings over a weekend
before we launch to let it down and deal with the corrosion control
and protection from marine growth as best we can. I’ll wire brush
as
much of it as I can reach and paint it with cold galvanize paint as
someone else suggested. Although I may have to ospho/barrier
coat/bottom paint in order to get any anti fouling effect.

George

19

Posted by George Huffman (thatboatguy2@…>)

We are probably going to wire brush it as best we can. Ospho it, and
then barrier coat and bottom paint. I’m checking around to make sure
I find an epoxy that can go over the Ospho alright. If I find that
they are incompatible I’ll have to drop back 10 and punt at that point
I suppose… We know we can leave the boat in the slings overnight
before a launch (for a fee) we also know that they don’t do travel
lift ops on the weekend. So we hope to combine those two facts and
have the boat up high in the slings over the august 4th weekend.

George

20

Posted by Herman Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

I have an early '80s brochure that states the centerboard weighs 2000
lbs., and is made of cast iron covered with epoxy and fiberglass.
Total ballast was 6000 lbs. Later brochures just state that ballast
is 6000 lbs, and the board is made of composite. Herm

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:

Jay, George,

I have a set of the original typewritten specification document of
the Freedom 40. It states that the CB is made of fibreglass and
that
the internal portion of the ballast is 6000 lbs. Total ballast
weight or CB weight is not mentioned.

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Jay Glen”
<svfantasy@> wrote:

George,

I own and liveaboard “Fantasy” a 1981 Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch on San
Francisco
Bay. There are photos in the original group photo file. Anyway, my
centerboard had some damage to the leading edge when I bought her
three
years ago. I’m not sure whats inside, but whatever it is it’s
encased in
fiberglass and has a nice air-foil shape all the way to the
bottom
of the
board. I have very little slop in the board and do not notice any
clunking
of the board when sailing or at anchor. I replaced the lifting
pennant (all
braided line 1/2 “) when I purchased her. The pennant connects to
the aft
edge of the centerboard and runs straight up the raceway to the
deck just
forward of the mizzen mast. There it runs back to the cockpit
cabin top
where it is lifted by a Barient 2 speed 27-48 self-tailing winch.
It lifts
fairly easy,but I’m guessing the board weighs in over 500 lbs.
Everywhere I
find specs for this boat the numbers are different. Draft is
listed between
3’ 9” to 5’ 6", and the centerboard weight runs from 500 lbs to
2000 lbs.
When I haul out this Fall in preparation to my trip to Mexico,
I’ll
determine the substance of the centerboard, lead or iron. I’ll
also measure
her for her draft.

As far as sailing this type of rig, its a little different than
what I
expected. I still have wishbones (aluminum) and both sails are
full battened
with large roaches. The run on Harken Batt car system. I have the
original
commissioning document thats lists all specs for hardware,
running
rigging,
sails, electrical, plumbing etc etc. Plus, I have a copy of “Sail
Handling
Hints” written by Gary Hoyt for Freedom Yachts. Its a very
interesting
primer on how to trim and handle the sails. If you would like, I
can make
copies and send them to you (and anyone else in the group who may
be
interested). Just send me your address and I’ll get them out to
you. Just
cover the copying and mail cost.

I love this boat and she sails very well. I generally put the
first reef in
at 18 knots. The mizzen needs to be carefully trimmed so as not
to
overpower
the helm, so I reef the mizzen around 15 to 18 knots. For
comfort,
I then
reef the main at about 25 knots. Both get the second reef at
about
30 knots.
These boats really fly off wind, and point fairly well depending
upon sea
conditions. I sail SF Bay and offshore where we typically have
fairly good
winds and seas. She is very comfortable, even in 14 foot swells
on
the
quarter.

Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

On 7/19/07, george huffman <thatboatguy2@> wrote:

Wow! I’m getting a lot of help here much faster than I
thought I
would. I really appreciate every response and we are feeling a
lot better
about this. I’ll be conducting the probing described by
Katorpus as best I
can. The boat was hauled when we bought her so we didn’t have
a
say about
how she was blocked. She is really low to the gravel and it’s
making it
tough going. Also there has been plenty to occupy us in the
mean time with
doing some blister repair and a new bottom. We will not pay
another round
trip on the travel lift which is what they want to charge us
just to pick it
up and block it higher. If we have to do that I’ll splash it
and take it to
a more reasonable yard. In fact it’s my desire to have her out
of there as
soon as possible.

I spoke with Eric Sponberg on the phone today. He is a very
friendly and
knowlegable person to deal with and he has turned me onto a guy
named Paul
Dennis of Warren River Boatworks. You guys are probably
already
familiar
with this name as was responsible for final assembly at the
yard
where our
boat was built for some years and he specializes in repairing
Freedoms.

Thanks for so much help so fast.

If you find that email with sailing instructions… I’m all
ears!

George and Kerri

katorpus <jrb@> wrote:

George

I prepared a lengthy post on this last night which somehow never
posted here or appeared in my mailbox…I’ll reconstruct it
briefly

  1. The slop is on purpose…if the board were so tight on the
    axle
    that it couldn’t contact the side of the centerboard box (at the
    bottom edge, where the hull is uber-strong), then drifting
    sideways
    into rocks etc would put incredible leverage on the axle and its
    mounting.

  2. Since the boat is out of the water, you ought to be able to
    figure
    a way to “wiggle” it up and down (at the axle end) by resting
    the tip
    on the ground or other object and levering upwards against the
    leading
    edge of the board (while “pinning” the tip to keep it “still”
    so
    it
    won’t move).

If the board truly DOES weigh 2000#, then this may require a
jack to
accomplish. The idea is to observe the motion of what you can
see of
the upper end of the board and extrapolate the amount of “slop”.

If it won’t move “up and down” on the axle attachment (or
doesn’t
move “far” (a subjective determination), then you don’t have a
problem.

  1. If the “knock” at anchor (or while drifting in near-calm air)
    bothers you, then just raise the board “tight” (at anchor) or
    put
    a “little” tension on it (in light air) and the problem will go
    away.

Just think of all the barnacles that are getting smashed when
the
board knocks and you’ll feel better about it (hard to clean
that
area
when the boat is floating, so they tend to build up there.

If you have visual evidence that the board is “tearing up” the
bottom
of the box, then you might want to go ahead and pull it out and
re-do
the pivot (and/or replace the board), but don’t put it back
together “too tight” (for the reasons explained in item #1)

ATTENTION MARK EDWARDS – if you’re out there monitoring this
discussion, do you have any comments?

Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your

pocket:<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48253/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?

refer=1GNXIC>mail, news, photos more.

–
Jay Glen ki6jtk
s/v Fantasy
Freedom 40 Cat-Ketch
San Francisco Bay Area