Posted by katorpus (katorpus@…>)
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:
them, and all of the cracked aluminum stanchion bases as well. I
contacted Mark Edwards to see about the original bases and tapered
stanchions. He said the aluminum blocks were replaced with stanchion
The original owner of my F40 Cat Ketch (Hull 61) obtained the
stainless steel stanchion bases from Freedom early on, but never
installed them…so I did.
I will tell you that removal of the old corroded bases was one HECK of
a job. I doubt I could have accomplished it with the boat in the water.
Hammer, wrecking bar & liberal applications of deleted expletives were
required. (Remember, the objective is to NOT have to replace the
toerail along with the stanchion bases).
As I contemplated the installation, it occurred to me that
the “winner” in the “electrolysis battle” between the aluminum toerail
and the stainless steel stanchion bases was gonna be the stanchion
bases. The extent of the corrosion in the original aluminum stanchion
bases (all of which had cracked) was graphic evidence of this problem.
My solution was to put a tripl layer of black rubber tape, topped with
a healthy gob of Lanocote on the plate of each stanchion base before
bolting it to the toerail. The excess (where visible) is easily
trimmed with a razor knife after installation.
I would HIGHLY recommend this (or something) when replacing the bases.
The same thing could be accomplished with anything that will keep the
two dissimilar metals from contacting each other over a wide area.
Thin sheets of UHMW plastic would work, as would cut out pieces of
inner tube or whatever. Electrical tape “ain’t enough”.
Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)
Good advice about galvanic corrosion - thanks.
Also good to know about the blocks and the problems getting them
off. As it is, I know I’m going to have to ream out some of the
holes in the aluminum to make them large enough to get a
wrench/socket on them to get the nuts off. I hadn’t thought about
how much corrosion there’d be to the bolts themselves. Were you able
to soak them at all with WD-40 or anything to help the process?
Lance
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “katorpus” <katorpus@y…>
wrote:
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:
them, and all of the cracked aluminum stanchion bases as well. I
contacted Mark Edwards to see about the original bases and
tapered
stanchions. He said the aluminum blocks were replaced with
stanchion
The original owner of my F40 Cat Ketch (Hull 61) obtained the
stainless steel stanchion bases from Freedom early on, but never
installed them…so I did.
I will tell you that removal of the old corroded bases was one
HECK of
a job. I doubt I could have accomplished it with the boat in the
water.
Hammer, wrecking bar & liberal applications of deleted expletives
were
required. (Remember, the objective is to NOT have to replace the
toerail along with the stanchion bases).
As I contemplated the installation, it occurred to me that
the “winner” in the “electrolysis battle” between the aluminum
toerail
and the stainless steel stanchion bases was gonna be the stanchion
bases. The extent of the corrosion in the original aluminum
stanchion
bases (all of which had cracked) was graphic evidence of this
problem.
My solution was to put a tripl layer of black rubber tape, topped
with
a healthy gob of Lanocote on the plate of each stanchion base
before
bolting it to the toerail. The excess (where visible) is easily
trimmed with a razor knife after installation.
I would HIGHLY recommend this (or something) when replacing the
bases.
The same thing could be accomplished with anything that will keep
the
two dissimilar metals from contacting each other over a wide area.
Thin sheets of UHMW plastic would work, as would cut out pieces of
inner tube or whatever. Electrical tape “ain’t enough”.
Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)
My F-33 has the teak toerail option instead of the aluminum toe rails. I guess to provide the same pleasure as the corrosion on the aluminum ones the stanchions on mine are mounted so 1 or 2 of the bolts go through the cored part of the deck and some have leaked over time requiring minor but very difficult and messy repair. Its odd since there’s plenty of room to mount them closer to the toe rail and avoid going through the cored part. I’ve slowly been checking routing out balsa, expoxy filling, and put on large backing plates (freedom used washers). Of course some are in very diffcult locations to access. The bow pulpit is done the same way. What a pain.
Alan F-33 Hull #51 1982
----- Original Message -----
From: lance_ryley
To: freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 7:38 AM
Subject: [freedomyachts2003] Re: new stanchions and blocks WHEN INSTALLING THEM…
Good advice about galvanic corrosion - thanks.Also good to know about the blocks and the problems getting them off. As it is, I know I’m going to have to ream out some of the holes in the aluminum to make them large enough to get a wrench/socket on them to get the nuts off. I hadn’t thought about how much corrosion there’d be to the bolts themselves. Were you able to soak them at all with WD-40 or anything to help the process?Lance— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “katorpus” <katorpus@y…> wrote:> — In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley” > <lance_ryley@y…> wrote:> them, and all of the cracked aluminum stanchion bases as well. I > > contacted Mark Edwards to see about the original bases and tapered > > stanchions. He said the aluminum blocks were replaced with stanchion > > The original owner of my F40 Cat Ketch (Hull 61) obtained the > stainless steel stanchion bases from Freedom early on, but never > installed them…so I did.> > I will tell you that removal of the old corroded bases was one HECK of > a job. I doubt I could have accomplished it with the boat in the water.> Hammer, wrecking bar & liberal applications of deleted expletives were > required. (Remember, the objective is to NOT have to replace the > toerail along with the stanchion bases).> > As I contemplated the installation, it occurred to me that > the “winner” in the “electrolysis battle” between the aluminum toerail > and the stainless steel stanchion bases was gonna be the stanchion > bases. The extent of the corrosion in the original aluminum stanchion > bases (all of which had cracked) was graphic evidence of this problem.> > My solution was to put a tripl layer of black rubber tape, topped with > a healthy gob of Lanocote on the plate of each stanchion base before > bolting it to the toerail. The excess (where visible) is easily > trimmed with a razor knife after installation.> > I would HIGHLY recommend this (or something) when replacing the bases.> > The same thing could be accomplished with anything that will keep the > two dissimilar metals from contacting each other over a wide area. > Thin sheets of UHMW plastic would work, as would cut out pieces of > inner tube or whatever. Electrical tape “ain’t enough”.
Posted by katorpus (katorpus@…>)
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “lance_ryley”
<lance_ryley@y…> wrote:
Good advice about galvanic corrosion - thanks.
I hadn’t thought about
how much corrosion there’d be to the bolts themselves. Were you able
to soak them at all with WD-40 or anything to help the process?
Lance
The original bolts and the original stanchion blocks were pretty much
inseparable. I tried Liquid Wrench, but the holes ARE essentially
horizontal. You aren’t likely to get many of them to turn in the
stanchion base, so don’t worry too much about reaming out the recessed
end.
Very few came out without breaking the bolt, which actually worked out
reasonably well if the bolt could be made to break at the toe rail. A
little (hah!) hammering would break the bond between the stanchion
base and the aluminum toerail, but the bolts were a tight fit thru the
holes in the toerail.
You can’t beat too much directly on the bolt end, because it bends the
toerail inward. You can’t pry too much between the toerail and the
stanchion base because it bends the toerail outward. Lotsa cussing is
required. Allow at least 30 minutes per stanchion base for removal.
You need a heavy hammer (or a pair of them) held against the toerail
on the INSIDE when hammering from the outside to limit toerail flexion
and concentrate the impact instead of spreading it further down the
toerail.
I didn’t want to use heat, because that would destroy the sealant
beneath the toerail and/or the gelcoat.