Posted by j32080@…> (j32080@…>)
A few comments/suggestions in-line […]
-John
Former “Blue Merle” owner #259
[Your hull number is very close to mine (and Nick’s))]
— emmylou307 <emmylou307@…> wrote:
Hi John - great help!
Refer to: http://www.seanmulligan.com/Stories/Emmylou307
When we had Emmylou’s mast down we saw many problems (though we were
relieved the
mast and spartight came out intact):
- The cap at the top was completely gone. We need to improvise a
replacement. Our local
rigging yard suggested some rubber roofing membrane held by SS hose
clamp.
[That may work. You’ll need something otherwise you’ll be getting a
lot of water down the mast. Look around home repair supplies (Home
Depot, etc.). You may find something that will fit. Try plumbing
and/or electrical. Even a hard PVC cap (cut down) may work.]
- The steaming light was not working, despite an apparently good
bulb. The light had
been wired with household zip cord secured below with wire nuts - not
good. I think wire
must be replaced.
[When you run your wires up the inside of the mast feed them through
1/2" foam pipe insulation to keep them from “slapping”. Another trick
is to make “spiders” out of zip ties. Probably numerous articles on
the web about this technique.]
- There had been “something” attached up high but there was just
remanants left of the
(galv.? alum?) angle (see photo 5126). I plan to attach the JBase for
windex here.4 Bought a 3’ Antannae at West with angle bracket same as John’s Blue
Merle setup and
plan to mout to another part of masthead where there are already
holes (from what I don’t
know).5 Got a small extra halyard and cleat for the burgees.
Any suggestions for mounting? Through Bolts? Self-tapping screws? How
about pre-
drilling the Carbon Fiber? Can I use regular high-speed steel bits or
would carbide tips
work better? OK to use Locktite or sealant?
[my flag halyards were just fastened with SS sheet metal (self
tapping)screws. Drill proper size pilot holes. You won’t be able to
through-bolt them as you’ll never get a wrench down the mast - nor be
able to get the nuts onto the screws. There isn’t any real load on a
flag halyard.
Drilling carbon fiber is just like drilling fiberglass.
Hint on the flag halyards: They will “slap” against the mast in the
wind. Trick is to cross-cross them in front of the mast when not
flying any burgees.
]
I’ve also laid in a supply of silicone sealant, track lubricant and
SS screws.
[Put three (3) SS hose clamps around the gooseneck (picture 5155).
Top, bottom and middle. This will strengthen the fitting and prevent
the rivits from popping out. No matter what you do, pop rivits are not
going to hold the gooseneck. This is what I did as my gooseneck was a
bit loose (from a bad gybe). Sailed over 2,000 miles with this setup.
Cover the hose clamps with black electrical tape to make them blend in
with the black mast.
After you get the rigging set up, put stopper knots in the main sheet
and the traveler lines to prevent the boom from going out to far.
Lower the traveler, then check to make sure that the hardware at the
gooseneck side of the boom doesn’t touch the mast. Be conservative as
lines do stretch when under load.
For track lubricant, use SailKote. Also spray on plastic sail slides.
Done right, you’ll be able to “smoke” the main when dropping it.]
\
Truck arrives with hull 307 in Stamford at Brewer’s West Wed.
afternoon 2/3. We’re trying
to make sure we have everything on hand to quickly do “top of the
mast” work before the
yard rushes to get us in the water and on our way (via outboard with
re-rigging under way.Hope to have photos of Emmylou sailing Long Island Sound soon!
Sean & Vivian
Emmylou 307
\
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