RE: Re: Power Windlass

Archives
1

Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)


While on this subject I’d be interested to hear from any Hoyt
F32 owners who have fitted a windlass/capstan for anchor work. Room
seems tight so I am curious. I raised this point before but had limited (though
welcome) response!

RB
Libation
Newport RI



From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of lance_ryley
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 3:38 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: F35 Power Winch

\




I’ll second the power winch perspective.
Without it on Glory (albeit
a 45 with the ‘tall’ rig), I think Pam and I would have to take a nap
after getting the main up. Our current routine is to, with the engine
running, raise the main and the jib using the power winch. Once the
sail is up, we put the main sheet on the starboard (power) winch with
the line clutch open and the jib sheet on the port side. Winch
handles are locked in place on top of each.

I’ve found that the winch draws enough power that trimming using it
is overkill except in extreme circumstances.

The switches (highspeed and high torque) are mounted in the
companionway frame. it is very simple to press the top switch with
your toe and tail the line as the sail goes up.

Lance

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“f35sail” <s.goward@…>
wrote:

All:

A question was posted last summer concerning the need or desire for
a
power winch on the F35.

We can strongly, positively report that after 2 plus years of
attempting to do without a power winch on our F35, we had one
installed (Harken 44) this summer.

Our view of Suzee has changed radically. We can now easily handle
the
boat, not only when raising the main but jib and a variety of sail
trimming efforts.

This was a lot of money but well worth the expense to make the F35
something that us “alpha geezers” (see Washinton Post) can
easily
handle.

If you are struggling with sail handling on your beautiful Pedrick
F35
time to bite the bullet and install the electric winch.

F35 Suzee
Chesapeake Bay



\

2

Posted by rick_simonds (rick_simonds@…>)

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “ron barr” <rwhb@…>
wrote:

While on this subject I’d be interested to hear from any Hoyt F32
owners who
have fitted a windlass/capstan for anchor work. Room seems tight so
I am
curious. I raised this point before but had limited (though welcome)
response!

RB

Libation

Newport RI

I installed a Muir vertical windlass on my 32 about 5 years ago.

A few random thoughts about it:

Design the drop of the rode to be as vertical as possible into the
chain locker. I have a PVC pipe that leads at a very steep angle
through the door into the chain locker. I don’t recall my reasoning
of exactly why I mounted it where I did but, if I were doing it
again, I’d look at mounting the windlass farther forward so it would
drop straight down without the pipe.

I’ve gone to an all-chain rode just because chain works vastly better
in my windlass. I’m actually a fan of combination rope/chain rodes
but, unfortunately, I’m also a big, fat, lazy slob, one who likes
hauling up an anchor with a touch of a button. All-chain makes it
easy. All-chain means rigging a snubber line when the anchor is down,
though.

You’ll need both an “up” and a “down” footswitch on the foredeck. The
chain sometimes gets a twist and it kinks in the gypsy as it’s coming
in. With a down switch it’s just a matter of touching it for a half
second to clear the kink and then continue retrieving the rode.
Before I installed the down switch it was a PITA.

Crawl around the foredeck a bit when you’re planning your
installation and place the foot switches where they can also
be “knee” switches while you tail the rode. In rough weather you’re
likely to be crawling around while tailing the rode and pressing the
switch with your knee. I’d like to say that, with piercing insight, I
planned my placement for this ahead of time but the fact is I just
got lucky.

I have an “up/down” toggle switch at the helm. In most conditions I
can just drive toward the anchor, pulling it in as I go. I can tell
by the sound if the windlass is straining or if there’s a kink. A
brief straining sound followed by a big “clonk” means the anchor is
fully home in the bow roller.

I also have a handheld up/down switch on a long wire hanging in the
old chainpipe. I haven’t used it even once since installing
the “down” foot switch.

I wouldn’t miss my rope capstan if it wasn’t there. Mine hasn’t been
as useful as I thought it would be. It isn’t all that powerful, the
winches are far, far better. Mine’s too small in diameter to hold a
decent sized line. And, just in general, it’s “a really great
solution, now,… if I only had a problem…”

Just today I found a new appreciation for having a windlass. There
was a dinghy race taking up all the room in my usual anchoring spot.
I tried to anchor in a different spot well away from the race course
but ended up dragging 4 times (I’m not sure why, maybe a really hard
bottom? There was a moderate wind and a really strong tidal current
running at the time.) I was about to make a 5th attempt when the race
ended and I could go to my usual spot, setting without a problem on
the first try. Four retrievals by hand would have had me laying in
bed for the next two days complaing about my back. Just pulling a
toggle switch mounted right at the wheel… well, … there’s just
nothin’ to it.

This piece of gear is fully worth the time and trouble.

If you want pictures or have specific questions, email me.

Rick
Tallahassee, FL

3

Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)


Thanks Rick- very helpful reply. Any photos above and below of
the installation much appreciated!

Ron

F32 Newport RI



From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rick_simonds
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:02 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Power Windlass

\




— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“ron barr” <rwhb@…>
wrote:

While on this subject I’d be interested to hear from any Hoyt F32
owners who
have fitted a windlass/capstan for anchor work. Room seems tight so
I am
curious. I raised this point before but had limited (though welcome)
response!

RB

Libation

Newport RI

I installed a Muir vertical windlass on my 32 about 5 years ago.

A few random thoughts about it:

Design the drop of the rode to be as vertical as possible into the
chain locker. I have a PVC pipe that leads at a very steep angle
through the door into the chain locker. I don’t recall my reasoning
of exactly why I mounted it where I did but, if I were doing it
again, I’d look at mounting the windlass farther forward so it would
drop straight down without the pipe.

I’ve gone to an all-chain rode just because chain works vastly better
in my windlass. I’m actually a fan of combination rope/chain rodes
but, unfortunately, I’m also a big, fat, lazy slob, one who likes
hauling up an anchor with a touch of a button. All-chain makes it
easy. All-chain means rigging a snubber line when the anchor is down,
though.

You’ll need both an “up” and a “down” footswitch on the foredeck.
The
chain sometimes gets a twist and it kinks in the gypsy as it’s coming
in. With a down switch it’s just a matter of touching it for a half
second to clear the kink and then continue retrieving the rode.
Before I installed the down switch it was a PITA.

Crawl around the foredeck a bit when you’re planning your
installation and place the foot switches where they can also
be “knee” switches while you tail the rode. In rough weather you’re
likely to be crawling around while tailing the rode and pressing the
switch with your knee. I’d like to say that, with piercing insight, I
planned my placement for this ahead of time but the fact is I just
got lucky.

I have an “up/down” toggle switch at the helm. In most conditions I
can just drive toward the anchor, pulling it in as I go. I can tell
by the sound if the windlass is straining or if there’s a kink. A
brief straining sound followed by a big “clonk” means the anchor is
fully home in the bow roller.

I also have a handheld up/down switch on a long wire hanging in the
old chainpipe. I haven’t used it even once since installing
the “down” foot switch.

I wouldn’t miss my rope capstan if it wasn’t there. Mine hasn’t been
as useful as I thought it would be. It isn’t all that powerful, the
winches are far, far better. Mine’s too small in diameter to hold a
decent sized line. And, just in general, it’s “a really great
solution, now,… if I only had a problem…”

Just today I found a new appreciation for having a windlass. There
was a dinghy race taking up all the room in my usual anchoring spot.
I tried to anchor in a different spot well away from the race course
but ended up dragging 4 times (I’m not sure why, maybe a really hard
bottom? There was a moderate wind and a really strong tidal current
running at the time.) I was about to make a 5th attempt when the race
ended and I could go to my usual spot, setting without a problem on
the first try. Four retrievals by hand would have had me laying in
bed for the next two days complaing about my back. Just pulling a
toggle switch mounted right at the wheel… well, … there’s just
nothin’ to it.

This piece of gear is fully worth the time and trouble.

If you want pictures or have specific questions, email me.

Rick
Tallahassee, FL


\

4

Posted by rick_simonds (rick_simonds@…>)

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “ron barr” <rwhb@…> wrote:

Thanks Rick- very helpful reply. Any photos above and below of the
installation much appreciated!

Ron

F32 Newport RI

I posted some in the photo section under “F32 Windlass”

Rick